Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Closeup across the deck.......

Now two more masts to go..then the top mast and top gallant stays.......fun fun fun...

Main mast shrouds rigged

Wider view

Wider even still

Hi Rob, is each foot rope tied around each shroud or are the ends tied and the interior intersections just glued?  This is a much better system than making each assembly in a jig.

Well I use many methods..and yes I have used that one in tying the ratlines..but in this case I simply cut small lengths of ratline thread and then apply wood glue in the appropriate places on the shrouds and by grabbing the ratlines by each end press them into the glue on the shrouds and roll the ratline till it is incorporated into the glue..stretch it a bit to align it then let it dry.  I move along quite quickly.  Once to the top I then cut all excess line off of each ratline end with a sharp surgical knife blade.  Done...and it moves along very quickly and is very clean and looks nice too..You have to know where you can skip tedious tasks...and tying every knot is tedious.  

I'm working the mizzen mast today.  Main's done. :)

Mizzen main shrouds done

Closeup of the tops

Finished the main shrouds and ratlines..........now a break and then onto the stays and their rigging

That is really looking good, Rob. You deserve a break.

Break's over.   Now onto the jibboom and more stays.......Opting to NOT use the kits ratlines means all the rigging for the lanyards and shrouds needs to be done by hand.  This makes the model more realistic and believable IMV.......thanks for the fine comments.....

Rob

Working on the head rear rigging.  bowsprit shrouds and bobstays.

Head gear is rigged..here are some pics

Another angle

top view

Feel like I'm  right down by the dry dock

Final image of the head gear finished, jib boom finished...now onto the stays...since I needed to finish the jib stays to get the angle of the mast for the backstays.

I always did like the headgear rigging of the CS.The lines,angles and design always seemed like the epitomy of "nauticle".  I have a water and heat damaged CS that I cut the bow section from and am making a fore section only modelmainly becasue of the setup.

Rob and all you CS experts out there:

I'm working on my CS again (inspired by Rob's masterful work!) and do NOT understand how the anchor chains are placed according to the Revell plans. Unfortunately I've already installed the parts involved so it's too late for me to change them now but I just don't think it's possible that a working ship would have their anchor chains rubbing along the rim of a hatch! I would imagine that the wood of the hatch (assuming it's wood) would be worn away rather quickly.

The next CS I build (should I live long enough) will have the two covers for the outlets of the anchor chain placed farther apart so that the chain clears the edges of the hatch.

If I had not drilled holes for the chain in the deck I might attempt to reposition the two "covers" but, as it stands, it would be beyond my ability to fill the holes in any realistic way.

I did use the anchor chain from another kit to run both chains through the deck in holes I'd drilled under the forecastle and used wire to grab them and pull them through the holes on the hull for the chain.

Has anyone seen the actual arrangement on the Cutty Sark as she is now?

Mike

Yes...I agree..the chain tunnels are far to close to the forward hatch....then again, the hatch cover may be too large itself on the model.  Only the CS purists will find restless nights because of it.  I'm glad to hear my efforts have encouraged you to begin your CS model.  :)

I finished the top shrouds/lanyards/deadeyes and rigging for the mainmast.  I am also adding all the blocks to the mast head with wire hooks...replicating the originals.

Post some images of your efforts if you can......:)

The CS head gear is impressive and sleek .  Here is a B/W image of the jibboom rig.

The only historical image I have of the forward area of the forward hatch is of the Ferreira.

I plan on(when I'm finished with this kit), to then build the Ferreira from the Revell CS kit......that will be fun.

Rob,

I'm a horrible modeler! But I have FUN doing this!!! I'm too embarrassed to post pictures directly but I'll add some links to my pictures of where the CS stands with me now.

I try hard but I still end up with a terrible paint job (I'll get better - I hope), some gouges in the bow, and many, many small but irritating mistakes. I believe I'm doing slightly better than when I built the Connie two years ago, but I still need to build a dozen or so models before my skills improve to the point where I might have the courage to post a bulld log.

For what they're worth:

http://michaels.0catch.com/_2170001.jpg

http://michaels.0catch.com/_2170006.jpg

http://michaels.0catch.com/_2170002.jpg

http://michaels.0catch.com/_2170008.jpg

http://michaels.0catch.com/_2170009.jpg

Are you kidding me...that is not bad at all...not at all.  You are working on your technique...and it is technique that helps distinguish a good modeler from someone who just throws them together..for the sake of getting it done.

If I may.....can I offer a few suggestions?

One..never tear parts from the runners..always cut them off with ample left overs..so you can cleanly hand trim and sand the sprue clean...leaving no sign,

Only remove the parts you need at the time and cut away excess sprue so they do not clog your work area.

Try masking...especially when painting along long lines or up against 90 deg angles.  I use a roll of fine painters blue tape...I cut with a hobby knife a thin strip all the way around the roll....allowing me to have a nice narrow strip I can roll out as much as I need.  Then you can mask in tight spaces..giving you those crist paint lines.

Here is one more..just for fun.  On many wooden ship models..they come in molded brown..but the hull needs to be a darker or lighter brown...don't bother painting the highlighted areas...simply draw your hobby knofe across the raised area..removing the paint and revealing the other color......sharp..looking and very easily done.  It can be messy...but paint dust is easy to deal with..then squigly over painted areas.

With these simple techniques in hand..you can master even the toughest paint job...:)

Rob

One more trip....especially with sailing ship models...you have to think like a chess player...many moves ahead..so you are not having to rig in tight places or trying to add detail after the fact..It's easier to add those blocks now then when you have a web of rigging to work through........

I hope I  have been of some assistance......you're coming along and doing great....keep it up.

I can assure you my build is far from perfect.....loads of mistakes and blunders.

Rob,

Thanks for the suggestions. I did try to mask the rub rail but paint got under it anyway. I guess I'll have to be more careful about making sure the tape is nice and snug against whatever I plan to paint in the future.

As to planning ahead, I will do my best. I was soooo frustrated when I rigged the Connie - tweezers in both hands, standing over the masts, trying to see where I should put this line or that through the shrouds...a real challenge. This time I will TRY to plan ahead.

Anyway, your build continues to inspire me. Thank you.

Mike

Mike:  For the white rub rails spray the general area white then apply Tamiya masking tape over the rails and smooth it down tight against the hull using round tooth picks.   Then simply run a sharp  #11 blade along each juncture of the rub rail and the hull.  Peel off the tape that remains against the hull and then again smooth down the edges with a toothpick. You can then spray the hull color and will have a very sharp rub rail line when you remove the tape.

Dave, Thanks for that. Next time I'll try it that way.

Mike