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1/72 Type IXC U-Boat Build Log

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  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Saturday, May 24, 2014 11:48 AM

For the pieces of the deck that are supposed to be metal, I drybrushed them with flat aluminum. That seemed to highlight the edges of the metal and make them look worn. Then after letting that dry, I took some rust colored oil points (yellow ochre, orange, raw sienna) and dapped them on some of those exposed areas. Then I took loaded some mineral spirits in the brush and wiped most of it away. That's it really.

I was going to get a few washes and filters from AK Interactive, but I decided to just get some oils and mineral spirits and experiment with my own washes/filters. I gotta say, they're very forgiving and I've been very happy with the results.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 24, 2014 10:42 AM

Señormodeler

Here's the finished Spitfire:

I took your suggestion and applied a brown filter to the u-boat deck. I'm very happy with those results. I also went back and applied some rust to the exposed metal parts. I've never done any of this before so I'm learning a lot. I mostly like the rust, though I'm wondering if the rust looks too much like the exposed wood on the deck.  Here are some pics:

I really like the look of this, especially the effect around the edges of the metal pieces, how did you do that.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Saturday, May 24, 2014 9:38 AM

Making slow progress. Painted and weathered the deck in the tower:

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, May 22, 2014 12:03 PM

Looks good from here. Sometimes the camera doesn't catch the true effect.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Thursday, May 22, 2014 11:11 AM

Here's the finished Spitfire:

I took your suggestion and applied a brown filter to the u-boat deck. I'm very happy with those results. I also went back and applied some rust to the exposed metal parts. I've never done any of this before so I'm learning a lot. I mostly like the rust, though I'm wondering if the rust looks too much like the exposed wood on the deck.  Here are some pics:

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 12:51 PM

The Spit looks great. I would love to go back to the Imperial War Museum. Last time I was there was in 1985 and it was an awesome place to visit.

For wood grain effect try a small brass brush. As a deck filter I would use a burnt umber oil wash for a wood grain effect. No need to seal it with Future, just let it dry for a few days and continue on your weathering. You want a flat surface to give the oil weathering/streaking some bite. Then seal with clear flat.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 11:22 AM

Re- the deck...

That's a great idea. I'm trying to figure out the order of the next few steps. Here's what i'm thinking.

-Dab on some smaller areas of darker black and darker brown

-Run a light grit sandpaper lightly along the deck, to maybe create some grain

-Use a filter on the deck (but what color filter is my question)

-Seal it with future

-Apply a wash (brown or black??)

-Apply chipping with sponge around metal parts

-Apply rust wash around the exposed metal parts

-Seal it with future

-Apply dull coat?

What do you think?

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 9:09 AM

The spitfire is the Airfix 1/72 Mk1. I picked it up in London at the Cabinet War room museum. I just applied a dark wash to it, and then another coat of future to seal it. I think I might do just a little bit of sponge chipping in a couple of spots and then I should be done. I'll put a dull coat on it and call it finished.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, May 21, 2014 7:23 AM

That looks very good.Yes  Remember that sea water will quickly corrode metal so I would touch up the flat aluminum pieces you dry brushed with a rust colored mix of oil paints. The rusting, discoloration and streaking were substantial on these boats as seen in pictures after a war patrol.  The Spitfire looks great. What scale and manufacturer? 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Tuesday, May 20, 2014 11:39 PM

I had some time today, so I brushed on some lighter grey areas, and then some brown areas. Then I dry brushed some flat aluminum on the metal pieces.

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Monday, May 19, 2014 11:45 AM

Re read Dougie's article about the deck paint and he suggests Dunkelgrau 53 with areas of darker and lighter grey drybrushed on. And then minimal streaks of brown over the worn out areas.

Here's my base coat of dunkelgrau 53 on the aft section of the deck:

Next, I'll try post-shading a darker grey around the edges of things. Thoughts?

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, May 18, 2014 4:16 PM

The anti fouling/wood preservative that was brushed on the teak decks was a dark grey almost black. It would wear out on heavily foot traveled areas and expose a brownish tint. It also provided camouflage from above to help blend the deck with the dark sea as seen from an aircraft. The decks would be repainted at the end of the patrols to preserve the wood. Look up Dougie Martindale's piece on this.

As far as using the pre made washes, IMO is a waste of money as I can make tons of the stuff in multiple shades using artists oils and gum turpentine that works the same for a ton of less $.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Sunday, May 18, 2014 10:04 AM

Picked up the oils and the spirits yesterday. Gonna practice on this first:

Also spent time mixing up a brownish black color for the deck. I started brush painting but didn't like how it looked so I masked everything off and used the airbrush. Then i went back with a darkened version of the color and sprayed in an irregular splotchy pattern. Might go back with even more black, but not sure yet.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 17, 2014 3:12 PM

I have been using oils for a while and despite starting to use the ready made washes and filters, I still find oil really handy to have. That range of colours  are probably must have for any armour builder5 and I think should be ideal for a ship build as well.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Saturday, May 17, 2014 12:47 PM

-ood results. :)

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Saturday, May 17, 2014 12:46 PM

Well the other thing I'm considering doing is getting some oil paints and mineral spirits and making my own filters and washes. I'd get a range of colors:

Raw Umber

Black

White

Yellow Ochre

Raw Sienna

Orange

Burnt Umber

There seem to be a lot of folks who use oils instead of pre mixed washes and have g

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 17, 2014 9:23 AM

I was just checking AK's site, which seems to have changed. I think they have changed the name of their werathering sets as now the naval ones are set 1 and set 2, theres no German set, but No 1 seems to have been what was the German one.

Set 1 has a wash for grey decks and set 2 has a wash for dark wood decks. Not sure if the Type IX decks are black as with the Type VII, but if so, I wonder if the other wash might be better suited.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 17, 2014 9:17 AM

Good idea. I have not got any of their DVD's, I just bought certain products and then cuffed it. But it might have been handy to get some of those. Will look forward to seeing what you think.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Saturday, May 17, 2014 9:07 AM

Thanks!

Yeah it looks like it could be a good set. I ordered the DVD from them called weathering german ships. I've heard it's very informative and shows you how the ak stuff works. It should arrive next week. Lull let you know what I think.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 17, 2014 3:50 AM

Liking the look of that Senor.

I have been thinking about trying the AK German naval weathering set. I have used some of their products for armour and really like them, but I have not seen anyone use the naval set yet.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Friday, May 16, 2014 9:42 PM

I felt like the paint job was a little dark, so I mixed up a batch of lifecolor schlickgrau 58 and tamiya white and lightened the conning tower up a bit.  I think I like this better. 

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Friday, May 16, 2014 9:00 AM

Thanks, arnie. I have the urge to use this coat as another level of preshading and go into the central panels between the rivets with a slighly lighter, more grey coat. But maybe I'll wait and see how everything goes. Still not sure.

  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by arnie60 on Friday, May 16, 2014 2:48 AM

I can't speak for the authenticity but it looks fantastic. Not to belittle anyone's work, but I often look at some of these fine builds that people do on these war ships and they just look kinda washed out and boring in terms of the paint scheme. No pop. This pops.

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 7:49 PM

I did some pre-shading on the conning tower yesterday:

And today I mixed up a shade of greyish blue that I thought would work, but now I'm having second thoughts. I may go over it with a more greyish grey. Not sure.

What do you guys think?

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Monday, May 12, 2014 11:11 AM

I primed the hull but still need to paint the interior of the hull. Was thinking of a dark nuetral-ish grey. Also thinking ahead to the weathering stage and wondering if I should go for AK or Mig products. Either way I think I want a dark, brown, and nuetral wash. But on the filter side of things I'm confused. This is my first time weathering anything and so I'm trying to figure out what does what.

I see that MIG has something called a German Grey Transformation set. And also a German Filter set. But then AK has something called a German Naval Warship set. If anyone has experience with any of those sets, I'd love to hear about it.

Any suggestions?

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, May 10, 2014 7:46 AM

That does look a wopping boat like that. Can't wait to see some more.

I have never been to the war rooms, how was it there. Nice looking airbrush.

For those thinking about the Eduard PE sets, they have just released them as a BIGED. At this price, you basically get the 107 set free.

www.hannants.co.uk/.../EBIG5321

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2014
Posted by Señormodeler on Tuesday, May 6, 2014 12:45 PM

After being out of town for a couple of weeks, I finally was able to pick up where I left off with the u-boat build. I have most of the conning tower sub-assembly primed and ready for paint so I moved back over to the hull. I finished most of the flood holes, but I'm leaving the ones on the bottom of the stern. I made some mistakes while cutting away the plastic at the base of the bow and didn't want to make things worse. I'm fine with the compromise.

The hull is clamped together and cemented in place.

Here's where I screwed up.

I was cutting away the plastic from the inside and went through it where I shouldn't have. The real mistake was applying the PE  before cutting away the plastic. I did this because I didn't think I was going to open up the wholes. Then I changed my mind. Oh well -- learned a lesson.

While I was in London I visited the Churchill cabinet war rooms and picked up an Airfix 1/72 Spitfire Mk1 from the gift shop.

I figured it would be a good way to practice with my new airbrush (an Iwata HP-C Plus!):

Once the hull is done drying, I'll insert some styrene or cardboard in the bow to block the view through the flood holes. Then another piece to block the view in the flood holes along the top of the hull.

Then I'll prime her and fix things. That's the plan anyway.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 9:51 AM

make sense for them to do interiors seeing as they did them for the Type VII. Good to hear they are onto the rest. Cheers PJ.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 9:03 AM

Well, CMK answered back in just a few days since I sent them an inquiry. That is very good to know that they actually read and answer our questions. This is what I got:

Thank you for your email.

We are really pleased that people get informed about the prepared sets for Type IXC.

First of all, we will release the interior sections, particularly

N72011 – U-Boot IX Front Torpedo Section

N72015 – U-Boot IX Front Crew Quarters

N72016 – U-Boot IX Captain’s & Officers’ Ward Room

The rest will be released as when it is designed and approved. All sets should be released within the end of 2014.

Best  regards
Jan  Hajicek
Admin

Sounds like most of the goodies will be out just before the Christmas Season. Can't wait to see the rest. 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, April 21, 2014 9:03 AM

Certainly doesn't, I have done it myself a few times. I'll try and remember to check the site every couple of weeks, see if anything comes up.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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