trumpeter 1/200 bismarck

that sounds very interesting GM , don't suppose you know the name of the book ?

started on the boats , they are that fragile , the airbrush could damsge them .

Theres a pretty funny video of an Arado trying to keep up with a ship that's underway and hook itself up. At one point it hits a big wave head on and the engine falls off.

If you haven't read the book by the highest ranking surviving officer, you should.

Among a lot of fascinating details, he tells of a plan to put the ships logs and other documents into one of the float planes and set it adrift for later collection by a U boat, which never happened.

Bill

thankyou GM

Most likely the standard RLM 72/72 splinter pattern on upper surfaces and RLM 65 undersides.

thankyou keavdog , got the 150mm & 105 mm guns almost done .

the planes only need paint , any suggestions on the colour green please .

Wow what a project.  Looks awsome - I envy your PE skills

cheers thuntboss , been working on the main guns , little bit more still to do . the blast bags were a nightmare . took nearly 2 hours of filing to get the barrels through .

Definately coming along for sure and looks great!

absolutely , stuffed up this railing , so I got some 1/350 , didn't turn out too bad .

bit of a quick look at what the score is so far .

the forward superstructure is close to finished , still got railings to do , some painting weathering , etc .

Micro Crystal Clear is good;

 I am unaware of costs there, It's been many years since I tread the fine soil of your land.

cheers thuntboss , glad to have you aboard . 

painted the radar screens , used plumbers thread tape , to mask of the screens . no stickiness .

Definately following your build, and looking thru older builds as well, for when I start on my own fleet of 1/200's.

added the windows , they came out pretty good TB .

mongoose , the paste is good , as it can act like a glue to hold bits in place .

nice to see you are watching mike . 

merry x-mas and a happy new year to everyone .

Steve,

Love the work you're doing on this ship!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

steve5

finally got the main mast done , the lower crows nest I totally stuffed up , had to make one out of styrene . I used both soldering and CA . now for the fore mast .

mongoose was that tutorial by will pattinsen any help .

 

just got thru it today. I found everything for it on Amazon andplan to give it a go. The cigar lighter i think is going to be the big win. I have a small butane torch but it put out so much flow that even larger parts move or it blows the solder off the part before it can melt. That's where i think the paste will help.overall this looks like a superb method!

some more fiddly stuff done , hatch covers , anchors etc .

fore mast as far as I can go , not looking forward to the next step

finally got the main mast done , the lower crows nest I totally stuffed up , had to make one out of styrene . I used both soldering and CA . now for the fore mast .

mongoose was that tutorial by will pattinsen any help .

this is the guy who showed me how to do it , ignore the beginning , he can be a bit out there mate , but it is a good tutorial .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeG2rlI2NHU

Steve5 you have to post a vid Of that 

thanks mongoose , this came the other day , my cigar lighter , coupled with solder paste , all the pieces I have to solder have become a lot easier .

Looking good! Enjoying the updates on this end :-)

got a heap more PE done today .

thank's for the tutorial and kind words TB , testors window maker is too dear in australia mate , I think it's $50 just for the postage , but I have got some micro kristal klear , which i will try on the canopy . 

I got the wing bridges done , used a bit of the kit [plastic] and pontos PE .

I have to ask;

 Is that canopy clear plastic? If it's P.E. You can add glass with Testors Window Maker! Please excuse the bouncing around. I like the cleanliness of your P.E. work!

Hi;

         Dot Filters.They are not as hard as they seem.You must first realize if you are going to use it for decks it's definitely tricky. What I do is put clear semi Gloss over the deck first. Then with plank sizes being what they are,I put two tiny dots on each staggered row of planks toward the deckhouse. Then, You use acrylics. You don't want them to even start drying. So do a little area first. Use a test deck to get the feel.

    On a deck your deck Dot filters would be two or three shades different from your deck color. Then drag, In the direction of the planks with a Water or Alcohol moist Fan brush till they start dissappearing leaving a shaded streaked look. That's why I reccommend a test deck or surface.

       Once you get the hang of it, even a hull with Camo will not be an issue. You will be surprised how much character it can give a model. Also remember this, NEVER paint a ship Model( Warship) one shade of what they choose to call grey. Especially the callouts they give. The paint can and will either make the ship harder to admire or look too dark to draw the eye.

   Ask me I know. I didn't think when I did the 1/350 U.S.S. Butler. She was all over shades of Navy Blue grey. Well,Blue. She's Blue alright! I can't even see the stokes stretchers (P.E.) hanging on the bulkhead without a real bright L.E.D. Flashlight. See? I make mistakes too.( I still love the little model though) Funny Though, She has turned out to be my best model in that scale!

cheers steve , maybe they will read this and reconsider mate .

the paravanes are done , added a stripe for effect .

steve5

no worries steve , nice to hear from you . I didn't realise the subscribe feature had stopped !!

 

Hey Steve, the subscribe feature has not worked for me nearing a year now. FSM does not consider it important enough to fix it. Consider yourself lucky that it works for you.

Keep up the good work sir. I like what you are doing.