I did a bad thing to my airbrush.. Can it be saved?

Sounds as if your tip is still clogged. I've owned my VL for decades and it's a very simple mechanism. The next thing I would try is to swab out the nozzle with a couple of Proxy brushes (the ones your dentist gives you to clean between your teeth) and lacquer thinner. Usually a good soak and swab is all that's required.

If that doesn't work, you can get replacement parts from Chicago Airbrush and other dealers. It's very hard to kill a VL!

Mike

modelcrazy

 

PS As you surmized, you may want to check for a missing o ring as well

 

Thanks for your response. How can I check the O ring?

mrmike

Sounds as if your tip is still clogged.

Mike

 

Take a deep breath and relax.  I'm sure your airbrush can be saved.  It's pretty hard to destroy a VL unless you hit it with a hammer.

When you say you took it completely apart, do you mean the needle seal and the air valve too?  The needle seal should be adjusted so that there is just a slight drag on the needle.  It is solvent proof.  The internal parts of the air valve aren't.  The little O-ring will swell and jam.

Take it apart again and examine it closely with magnifier.  Does the nozzle have any tiny cracks?  Shine a light in the body and look for any crud you might have missed. Flush out the body with an eyedropper.  Use a pumping action to force thinner in and out.  Run the needle over some fine fabric and see if it has any burrs on the end. When you put it together, rub a little bees wax or Chapstick on the nozzle where it seats against the body.  Check it out with plain water before trying paint.

You might want to review this page.  Let us know how it goes.

Don

Great advice Don, I forgot about that link

Don Wheeler

Take a deep breath and relax.  I'm sure your airbrush can be saved.  It's pretty hard to destroy a VL unless you hit it with a hammer.

When you say you took it completely apart, do you mean the needle seal and the air valve too?  The needle seal should be adjusted so that there is just a slight drag on the needle.  It is solvent proof.  The internal parts of the air valve aren't.  The little O-ring will swell and jam.

Take it apart again and examine it closely with magnifier.  Does the nozzle have any tiny cracks?  Shine a light in the body and look for any crud you might have missed. Flush out the body with an eyedropper.  Use a pumping action to force thinner in and out.  Run the needle over some fine fabric and see if it has any burrs on the end. When you put it together, rub a little bees wax or Chapstick on the nozzle where it seats against the body.  Check it out with plain water before trying paint.

You might want to review this page.  Let us know how it goes.

Don

 

I didnt take it completely apart.. Just all the normal stuff, everything but the needle seal or the air valve. Im not even sure how to do that but Ill do the other stuff that you said and I will let you know. Thanks a bunch! 

I never use Q-tips or cotton when cleaning my airbrush. I use simple scraps of cloth/towels. While mrmike mentioned one technique to clean nozzles, I use pipe cleaners to clean out nozzles. They're a cheap alternative to mrmike's idea.

What is your paint mix? Are you using the wrong combination of paint/ thinner? You seem to be liberal with the lacquer thinner. Are you using that with paint?

For a large nozzle like the VL, you can twist a piece of paper towel to a point and use it with solvent to clean the nozzle.  There's a photo on this page.  A shaved down toothpick is a safe way to dislodge stubborn paint.  Don't jam anything in there that might split the fragile tip.

If you hold the nozzle up to a light source and look in the large end with a magnifier, you should see nothing but the shiny inside surface.

Don

GMorrison

What is your paint mix? Are you using the wrong combination of paint/ thinner? You seem to be liberal with the lacquer thinner. Are you using that with paint?

 

Don, I went back to it early and dislodged some big hunk of crap in there and it seemed to work fine for about a minute and then the needle gunked up all the way to the back again. It started spraying a fine dot pattern which is what its doing now.. Before big pieces of stuff were coming out. If I spray water through it, the spray pattern seems fine. Ill mess with it some more when i get home..Driving me crazy! 

Are you sure you're not fighting some bad paint?  Usually, if an airbrush sprays water OK, it's also good for paint.

Lacquer thinner is a good cleaner, but acetone will cut most anything.

Don

What did you thin the Vallejo with?

Greg

What did you thin the Vallejo with?

 

Been using ak interactive thinner for a while then got some tamiya x20A.. Both were working fine.. I had no issues. I've tried 2 different Vallejo colors and both a messing up... I'll try a different paint tonight...

Don Wheeler

Are you sure you're not fighting some bad paint?  Usually, if an airbrush sprays water OK, it's also good for paint.

Lacquer thinner is a good cleaner, but acetone will cut most anything.

Don

 

ill try different paint tonight...also, I can spray the acetone right through the airbrush or do you mean like soaking it in acetone?

Thinning Vallejo with Tamiya X-20 or anything with alchohol will clog your a/b and create a real mess to clean up, this may be a part of, if not the problem.

Hope this helps, at least in the future.

Hope you get this sorted soon.

I wouldn't spray acetone.  The fumes would be bad.  But, it's a good cleaner for soaking small parts or swabbing.  Even then, you want good ventilation.  But, that's true for lacquer thinner too. Protect your hands and lungs.

Don

Greg

Thinning Vallejo with Tamiya X-20 or anything with alchohol will clog your a/b and create a real mess to clean up, this may be a part of, if not the problem.

Hope this helps, at least in the future.

Hope you get this sorted soon.

 

what should I use?? It seemed to be working fine for weeks...thanks

Don W and Greg are on point, if nothing has been damaged by handling, (most likely would be the nozzle,) then likely you have a Vallejo/alcohol mess internally. X-20A smells just like alcohol, the label states butyl alcohol is one of the ingredients.

I once forgot the incompatibility problem with Vallejo and alcohol, I learned a lot about cleaning an airbrush in that episode. It turns thick and gummy, only a proper cleaner and implements like brushes will be sufficient for removal.

First, avoid soaking the airbrush body in any cleaner with the air valve in place. Second, a complete dis-assembly of the components will give access to the body chambers that are clogged. 

Soaking the individual front bits, (nozzle and aircap,) in lacquer thinner will start to break down the mess, making removal easier. Since the needle was buggered far back, I imagine the bearing might also be.

Removal of the needle bearing is easy, just a tiny flat blade screwdriver will do it. Soak that as well, cleaning it with cloth and brush. Re-assemble and adjust the bearing nut for desired drag, just a bit is needed. Follow Don's advice on his site, use a toothpick to get the threads started, then the screwdriver to tighten. Very tiny part.

Using a small LED penlight will show you where the body internals are clogged, the interdental brush, sharpened toothpicks and cloth bits will do well for you.

Don's trick to use paper towel rolled into a fine point will go far in reaching into the tiny bits like the nozzle. Please have a good look at "Don's airbrush tips," all you need to know will be found there. Plus, either consult your manual or look it up on line, the parts placements will be seen there.

Hope you get it sorted soon, best luck.

Patrick 

PaulieF

 

 

Greg

Thinning Vallejo with Tamiya X-20 or anything with alchohol will clog your a/b and create a real mess to clean up, this may be a part of, if not the problem.

Hope this helps, at least in the future.

Hope you get this sorted soon.

 

 

 Vallejo has their own thinner, I've used it, it's fully compatible. Water will also work, but I didn't find the results as good as the thinner.

 

Patrick

 

 

what should I use?? It seemed to be working fine for weeks...thanks

 

Ok heres the Verdict.

First I used some water instead of the Tamiya thinner with Vallejo Olive Drab 1:1 Ratio... It sprayed pretty good but was too clear but after a while it gummed up too. It was better with the water though. I tried a 2:1 Paint to water but it wouldnt spray right and clogged. 

I then threw some Model Master Acrylic Paint thinned with Tamiya Thinner 1:1 Ratio though this air brush and it worked fine.. I placed 30 drops of thinner and 30 drops of Paint and emptied the whole cup on the bottom of my B-25j (wrong color now but oh well) The coverage was good I didnt have any problems, maybe a touch of that small dot pattern when spraying but looks good.. I disassembled the air brush and the enitre needle was still covered in paint, from back to front.. Im not sure if thats normal or not. The nozzle was a little clogged up but not too bad. Im not sure if those things are normal or not.. 

Will I have the same problem with the AK interactive  and the tamiya thinner too now?

VERDICT: I guess its the paint, Greg hit it right on the head but I think there is still a problem becasue that paint is getting to the back of the needle..

You guys have all been awesome! Great advice from every one and I really appreciate it!

If the AB sprays somewhat OK, it's a step in the right direction. If the needle gets buggered front to back, I have to think it's the needle/bearing fit. It may not be damaged, but not functioning well due to the gummed up Vallejo/X-20A mixture. Some lacquer thinner on the needle and several runs back and forth through the bearing might clean it well.

If you feel like it, try removing the bearing and it's threaded metal fixture. If the bearing internal bore is just gummed up, that might put you back in biz.  

I don't mean to preach, but I think most modelers would agree it's not a good practice to mix ingredients from different manufacturers. The incompatibility issue can lead to grief. Glad you're making some headway. Keep us posted.

Patrick

Paul, you asked what thinner to use, then....

I agree with Patrick and tend to use a paints own thinner, in this case, Vallejo airbrush thinner.

BTW, are you spraying Vallejo Model Color or Model Air? (Big difference)

IMO, thinning Vallejo with water isn't the best for airbrush thinning. (Works the treat for hand-brushing though).

The only other thing I've thinned Vallejo with is Windex, believe it or not. I'd not do this again because I have no idea what it might be doing to the integrity of the paint, but it works otherwise. (sometimes folks get confused and say Windex mixed with Vallejo makes a mess. I've said this myself in error, it's not Windex (ammonia) that's turns Vallejo to glue, it's alcohol.

I can't comment on thinning AK, no experience.

Greg, Im using Model Color. Its the only one thats available locally, sort of.  (if you all two hours away locally. I live on an island) 

I used windex and it works incredibly well.. It sprays so damn good and I get amazing coverage and better yet, no clogs. Havent checked the needle yet though. Thats defintely the trick. Like you said, I dont know what it does to the intergrity of the paint but it sure looks good. I cant seem to find the vallejo thinner is a large bottle.. 32Ml bottle will go very fast. THey need to make that stuff in like a wine barrel or something.

patrick206

If the AB sprays somewhat OK, it's a step in the right direction. If the needle gets buggered front to back, I have to think it's the needle/bearing fit. It may not be damaged, but not functioning well due to the gummed up Vallejo/X-20A mixture. Some lacquer thinner on the needle and several runs back and forth through the bearing might clean it well.

If you feel like it, try removing the bearing and it's threaded metal fixture. If the bearing internal bore is just gummed up, that might put you back in biz.  

I don't mean to preach, but I think most modelers would agree it's not a good practice to mix ingredients from different manufacturers. The incompatibility issue can lead to grief. Glad you're making some headway. Keep us posted.

Patrick

 

If you are going to experiment with paints and thinners, don't do it in the airbrush.  Put a dab in a saucer and stir it around.  See if it clumps or thins nicely.  Try brushing it on something and see if it dries well.  Then, if you see no problems, try spraying it.

If paint is getting past the needle seal while you are painting, the seal is leaking and needs either adjustment or a new seal.  It's a very sensitive adjustment.  Just a tiny turn makes a big difference.

To remove or adjust the needle seal, remove the handle, needle, and trigger assembly.  See the parts breakdown photo on this page.  The seal is shown between the handle and body.

Don

Don Wheeler

If you are going to experiment with paints and thinners, don't do it in the airbrush.  Put a dab in a saucer and stir it around.  See if it clumps or thins nicely.  Try brushing it on something and see if it dries well.  Then, if you see no problems, try spraying it.

If paint is getting past the needle seal while you are painting, the seal is leaking and needs either adjustment or a new seal.  It's a very sensitive adjustment.  Just a tiny turn makes a big difference.

Don

 

EDIT.. NEVERMIND.. I see where the bearing is now.. THe last painting session didnt have any paint on the needle at all so maybe its all fixed! 

Actually your airbrush does have that bit, pictured between the handle and body. It's the teflon bearing, installed in the metal fixture, (TINY."

If you take the guts completely out of the body, look in the back of the airbrush with a small light. At the end of the larger body chamber, (looking forward,) you'll see the small hole that the needle passes through. A light held at the front of the body will illuminate the hole also.

There is a slot meant for a very small slotted screwdiver, back that out and the fixture comes free, the very small, white teflon bearing is inside that. A good soak in lacquer thinner or acetone will start to dissolve it, then you can use the needle to pass back and forth to clean it up.

To re-install the bearing assembly, start it back into the threads of the airbrush using a toothpick, be positive you don't have it cross threaded, before cinching it down with the scredriver. When you do have it seated, the adjustments are quite sensitive. You only want to feel a minor drag on the needle, as you check for proper fit, small turns of the screwdriver work best.

Have you checked "Don's airbrush tips" site yet????

Keep on truckin,' it sounds like your getting closer. You'll feel a real sense of accomplishment when you get it sorted properly, and you'll for sure know your VL much better.

Patrick