Tamiya Fine Surface Primer

Eaglecash867

Although I haven't used Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, I use decanted Tamiya Grey Surface Primer.  What are you currently thinning yours with?  I use MEK to thin mine and haven't had any issues so far.  I'm using a Paasche H airbrush with a #1 needle/air cap and shoot it at about 20 PSI.  The other question is how did you mix it and your thinner?  I have mine in a 4 ounce mason jar and stir it with a wooden skewer, then I mix it with MEK in a bathroom-size paper Dixie cup before it goes into my airbrush.  I guess its possible that age may be an issue, since I haven't had my decanted Tamiya sit for more than a few months before being used up...but when it is, I just decant another full can, right on top of the old stuff still left in the jar.  If you're decanting only enough at a time to use at that moment, that might also be a factor.  No idea how it reacts when you do it that way.  I didn't want to deal with decanting every time I want to use it, so that's why I decant full cans into a 4 ounce mason jar.  No issues so far, except for the time I mistakenly put alcohol in the Dixie cup instead of MEK.  It didn't like that...turned it into grey cottage cheese.  Never have to use flow improvers or paint retarders with it.  Just plain old MEK does the job beautifully.

 

i never thought of decanting the entire can in one sitting. I need to consider that as an option too. I have been doing as needed and I am seeing some horrific results. The worst was when doing my Jonny Quest Dragonfly build. I had massive buildup near the wing roots. Vortices probably contributed to that but granular build up was evident throughout the fuselage. In the case of the wing roots, the paint turned yellow, and I am using white primer! The more we banter, the more I think it's because of how I decant.

The saving grace in all this is that I was able to sand the problem away to a nice smooth finish. But, something is not right, and I need a better plan.

dlh,

A small tin snip goes through it very easily.  It's thicker than a beer/Coke can, but not much.  I'd imagine even a heavy kitchen shear would do just fine.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/shears-snips-bolt-cutters/midwest-snips-reg-knifti-cut-utility-shear/mwt-657n/p-1444440244513-c-1550852385007.htm?tid=2950448002749638500&ipos=30

Tojo72

I spray it directly from the can,no issues with obscuring details or grainy finish,even on 1/35 figures.

 

Tojo, yours may be the easiest solution. I guess why I don't spray from the can is for fear of going too heavy and melting the plastic. It doesnt sound like you have that problem though. I may have to try this. 

MJY65

I agree that doing it a bit at a time may be the problem.  It's unlikely that the mixture is uniform and probably heavy in solids by the end.  

After watching a few YouTube videos, I decided to vent the pressure, then cut the cans.  If you make the initial puncture near the top rim very small and don't agitate the can, it doesn't make a mess at all.   The pinhole will slowly vent pressure for a good half hour.  

Once all the pressure is gone, I cut the can, stir the contents and pour into Tamiya 46ml jars.  A 180ml spray will yield just over 70ml of product.  After letting it gas off,  put 35ml into each jar and fill to the 46 line with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for a 3:1 mix.  

 

I've had very good results with this method.  

 

How do you cut the can?

Thanks for posting this.

Dave

Here's my method of decanting and storage if you're interested in trying it.  Just copying and pasting a post I made in another thread.

Eaglecash867

For decanting, I usually get a box of 4 ounce mason jars with lids from somewhere like Amazon.  I take one of the lids and drill a big enough hole in the center of it for a 1/4" ID grommet.  That lid I use as my decanting lid.  Then I take the nozzle off the Tamiya primer can and attach a bendable party straw over the nozzle using epoxy and let that cure overnight.  After that, I take the can and shake it for a couple of minutes to get everything in it mixed and ready to spray.  Then its just a matter of putting the nozzle/straw assembly back on the can, screwing the lid with the grommet onto one of the mason jars, pushing the straw into the grommet, and spraying all of the paint through the straw into the jar.  Don't screw the cap on tightly when doing this, so the propellant can vent.  After that, leave the cap loose to allow the propellant to continue to come out of solution.  At about 2 hours, carefully stir the paint by hand (no motorized mixers) a little bit at a time...it will boil quickly as the propellant gas continues to come out, so you have to occasionally stop stirring to keep it from boiling over.  When it no longer boils when stirred, you can screw the lid on tight and you've got lots of airbrushable Tamiya primer that will be good for weeks or even months of primering model parts. When airbrushing it, I find it best to put a little bit of the primer into a Dixie paper bathroom cup, and then thin/mix it with MEK.  You'll have to stir the primer in the mason jar each time because there is a thick, sticky sludge that settles to the bottom.  That sludge is normal though, so don't worry that your primer is drying out.  You just have to stir it each time.  I usually use a wooden skewer for stirring it since its too thick for a motorized stirrer.

I agree that doing it a bit at a time may be the problem.  It's unlikely that the mixture is uniform and probably heavy in solids by the end.  

After watching a few YouTube videos, I decided to vent the pressure, then cut the cans.  If you make the initial puncture near the top rim very small and don't agitate the can, it doesn't make a mess at all.   The pinhole will slowly vent pressure for a good half hour.  

Once all the pressure is gone, I cut the can, stir the contents and pour into Tamiya 46ml jars.  A 180ml spray will yield just over 70ml of product.  After letting it gas off,  put 35ml into each jar and fill to the 46 line with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for a 3:1 mix.  

I've had very good results with this method.  

I spray it directly from the can,no issues with obscuring details or grainy finish,even on 1/35 figures.

Although I haven't used Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, I use decanted Tamiya Grey Surface Primer.  What are you currently thinning yours with?  I use MEK to thin mine and haven't had any issues so far.  I'm using a Paasche H airbrush with a #1 needle/air cap and shoot it at about 20 PSI.  The other question is how did you mix it and your thinner?  I have mine in a 4 ounce mason jar and stir it with a wooden skewer, then I mix it with MEK in a bathroom-size paper Dixie cup before it goes into my airbrush.  I guess its possible that age may be an issue, since I haven't had my decanted Tamiya sit for more than a few months before being used up...but when it is, I just decant another full can, right on top of the old stuff still left in the jar.  If you're decanting only enough at a time to use at that moment, that might also be a factor.  No idea how it reacts when you do it that way.  I didn't want to deal with decanting every time I want to use it, so that's why I decant full cans into a 4 ounce mason jar.  No issues so far, except for the time I mistakenly put alcohol in the Dixie cup instead of MEK.  It didn't like that...turned it into grey cottage cheese.  Never have to use flow improvers or paint retarders with it.  Just plain old MEK does the job beautifully.