What glue to use and when?

tamiya extra thin on all styrene and ca glue on non styrene.

I have found that Tamiya Extra Thin works for about 99% of my needs,once in awhile I will use a super glue type.

I keep a number of glues on hand.

My go-to glue is Loctite gel CA.  The gel CA is somewhat gap filling- the parts do not have to fit together perfectly, and it sets slower than the thin stuff, so I have a bit more working time.

I use the same brand of the thin CA, where I have a perfect fit and do not need extra working time.

CA will fog transparent plastic, so I use the window cement for those- the stuff that is like white glue- for canopies and stuff that is installed from the outside. For windows such as airliner and bomber windows that are inserted into the inside before closing the fuselage, I use epoxy for a very strong bond, because if one of those pops loose you have a real problem!

I will sometimes use solvent cement for a very long seam where I need a really long working time, but I don't seem to get a very strong bond.

I have bought some of that UV setting stuff but have not used it yet.  I hope it will work for windows and canopies. I intend to try some tests with scrap plastic before I use it.

Hi, Don -

A question, please, what are the glues you describe as "solvent cement" types? Are they the thicker ones that we used to see in tubes?

Thanks

Patrick

Luftwaffles

Currently, I have 2 glues in my arsenal: CA (Loc-tite) and Tamiya Extra Thin. 

If I'm building a model, in what different situations should I be using the different glues? Should I just mainly use Tamiya E.T., or should I be using a different viscosity or type? I know CA isn't the best at long-term durable blends. 

What do you suggest for small parts (1:72) and for larger 1/35 armor? 


Thank you all in advance for your advice. 

Sincerely,
Joshua

 

I use several products, for the most part I use Tamiya ET. That one is used when there is a good parts fit, with a fine brush I use the "capillary flow" method, just touching the seam and allowing the cement to spread through the joint.

If the contact points are very tiny and a strong joint is unlikely, I use a Model Master cement in a plastic triangular shape container, with small metal tube for controlled application. The product number is 8872.

This one lays a narrow bead of cement, really useful for wings, tail surfaces etc, when there is a wide flat surface to apply the cement to. Often the leading edges of wings and stabilizers have a mating surface that is too narrow for it, then I use the Tamiya ET and tape to keep it all together until set. I really like this thicker stuff, (8872,) just takes a little time and practice to get proficient with it.

I used to use Tenax for a faster set time, but no longer available to me. As a replacement I have used the Micro Mark "Same Stuff," it seems to work the same but the smell is a bit dis-agreeable, no matter to me as there is very positive air flow at my bench. Gives a very strong bond, but is not quite as user friendly as Tamiya.

For CA I use Loctite and Loctite gel, but on a rather limited basis, I have yet to be fully confident in it's long term strength. I don't know if it gets brittle or whatever, but over time it looks to me like it starts to get a bit flaky and grainy.

For canopies I like either plain old white glue, or the canopy cement made by Testor's I think.

Patrick 

.

I will use tamiya thick to brush on long parts so it does'nt dry out before i get all of the surface covered.

Luftwaffles

Currently, I have 2 glues in my arsenal: CA (Loc-tite) and Tamiya Extra Thin. 

If I'm building a model, in what different situations should I be using the different glues? Should I just mainly use Tamiya E.T., or should I be using a different viscosity or type? I know CA isn't the best at long-term durable blends. 

What do you suggest for small parts (1:72) and for larger 1/35 armor? 


Thank you all in advance for your advice. 

Sincerely,
Joshua

 

You will get a wide range of opinions but in reality use whatever works for you. There really is no right or wrong glue to use no matter the scale. Some use tube glue, others thin liquid glue, CA glue, etc...

This something you need to figure out for yourself to find what works best in whatever situation.

I will say this - DO NOT use super glue on clear parts. They'll cloud them up.

Currently I'm working on the 1:72 Hobby Boss Leopold railway gun. The thing is I'm wondering what I need to use for the dainty suspension parts. I use the Tamiya for most everything, and the superthick gel Loc-Tite for gap filling (along with everything else lol). 

Tamiya ET 99% of the time, gave up on CA glue just not strong

enough me even with the paint removed.

patrick206

Hi, Don -

A question, please, what are the glues you describe as "solvent cement" types? Are they the thicker ones that we used to see in tubes?

Thanks

Patrick

 

Solvent type glues are ones that melt styrene plastic.  Some people refer to the result as welding the seam.  Many model firms have their own brand of such cements, such as Testors, Tamiya, etc.  It is a liquid, virtually water viscosity.  I use MEK (when I can get the real stuff, not the artificial MEK substitute), or Acetone.  These are obtainable at hardware stores at reasonable prices for a quart can.

The commercial ones may have extra ingredients, but they are mostly MEK, acetone, or a combination of the two.

Don Stauffer

 

 

patrick206

Hi, Don -

A question, please, what are the glues you describe as "solvent cement" types? Are they the thicker ones that we used to see in tubes?

Thanks

Patrick

 

 

 

 

Solvent type glues are ones that melt styrene plastic.  Some people refer to the result as welding the seam.  Many model firms have their own brand of such cements, such as Testors, Tamiya, etc.  It is a liquid, virtually water viscosity.  I use MEK (when I can get the real stuff, not the artificial MEK substitute), or Acetone.  These are obtainable at hardware stores at reasonable prices for a quart can.

The commercial ones may have extra ingredients, but they are mostly MEK, acetone, or a combination of the two.

 

 

Good explanation, understood. Acetone is good for plastic joins and a great AB parts cleaner. Lasts forever. $7.00 per quart at Sherwin Williams.

Patrick

I only use Bob Smith Industries in the purple bottle for building, and epoxy for gluing anything that is porous, and won't hold with thin glues, or wood, or Elmers' glue. Silicone based hot glue I only use for windows, or Elmers' for securing them without worrying about crazing like superglues can. I don't use Tamiya, or any of their products  - There's no point in doing so since they don't offer anything that I can't get locally and it's no better in quality.

~ Cobra Chris

About 95% of my gluing is done with Tenax or Plast I Weld in a Touch'n Flow applicator. I have mastered the applicator and I can deliver glue with pin point accuracy. Most of the time I do not need any filler/putty cause of the melting and fusing of the plastic which after being cured, sands smooth leaving no join line.

For canopies I mainly use either Aleene's Tacky Glue or Testor's Clear Parts Cement.

For PE, depending on the application, I either use Aleene's where strength is not a factor or Gorilla Gel CA where stregth is critical.

For resin I use Gorilla Gel Ca.

I still keep the old Testors tube glue in my arsenal. I use it on ocassions where large parts are involved.

I find myself use two main glues. The Model Master in a black bottle with metal tube and The Tamiya thin.

I haven't seen any mention of Faller Expert glue.  I've been using that for more than 20 years.  It, along with liquid cement (or MEK) and CA, and white glue for clear parts, covers my glueing needs.

http://www.amazon.com/Faller-170492-Expert-Plastic-Cement/dp/B0000WROZ2

Texgunner

I haven't seen any mention of Faller Expert glue.  I've been using that for more than 20 years.  It, along with liquid cement (or MEK) and CA, and white glue for clear parts, covers my glueing needs.

http://www.amazon.com/Faller-170492-Expert-Plastic-Cement/dp/B0000WROZ2

 

I take it that is a solvent cement, right?  The ad was not very informative.

Yes Don, it is.  It is thicker than Tenax or MEK though.  Yet it is still thinner than the old tube glues. It's a good modeling product.

Gary