Frustrated With My CA

Deeve_

I just wanna add something to the discussion. Not really all that related, but I use CA and Epoxy quite a lot in other applications. I am an avid bowler. I mold my own custom thumbs from a urethane 1:1 mix. Glue these into my thumbholes. Over the last 15 years or so of using these, I have had quite a few break out mid throw. Every single one was glued in place with CA glue. This is pretty much a standard across the industry. I picked up some 1:1 mix 5 min epoxy and started using that and have never had a grip break out on me since.

CA is excellent in tension, but not so good in shear, which is what happened to your custom thumb holes.

Mike

I just wanna add something to the discussion. Not really all that related, but I use CA and Epoxy quite a lot in other applications. I am an avid bowler. I mold my own custom thumbs from a urethane 1:1 mix. Glue these into my thumbholes. Over the last 15 years or so of using these, I have had quite a few break out mid throw. Every single one was glued in place with CA glue. This is pretty much a standard across the industry. I picked up some 1:1 mix 5 min epoxy and started using that and have never had a grip break out on me since.

I will add that the best part of using epoxy is that it allows for adjustment after you have positioned your parts. This is extremely usefull in the bowling application, but you have to let it set for a few hours. Only bad thing is that you have to be a little easy on application as it doesnt just evaporate, what you apply stays there. I am about to use some epoxy on my resin prop and spinner for my Spit.

No problem, Tojo.  

Tojo72

Is this the stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFZ3Q5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yI19FbX8H2PCK

 

Thanks guys for all the belated answers,this is the suggestion that I went with,and it has been working great for two months now.

Thanks,Eaglecash

I use the Bob Smith gel usually and the accelerator when needed (even asked the wife to spray the accelerator on occasion as you need 3 hands)

Tojo72

I was trying to glue an arm to the torso of a resin figure using my newly open bottle of CA.I might as well spit on it for all good the glue did,it does a good job of sticking my fingers together or to a part.

So,I couldn't locate an old thread on good super glue types that you find effective.What brands and types do you recommend for effectiveness and longevity in the bottle

Thanks 

You didn't mention which brand you currently use (I'm surprised no one else asked, too).

I use Bob Smith Industries' product, same as some of the others.  I should add that BSI's product is also sold under retailers' brands. For example, HobbyTown gets its CA and epoxy glues from BSI, and sells them in packages with the HobbyTown label.  But if we look at the fine print, we see BSI listed.  On the other hand, HobbyLobby sells the product with BSI's label.

You noted that you were gluing a resin figure together, and that's important, too - the application, the particular use.  I do use CA glue to assemble resin figures, sometimes, but I prefer to use 2-part epoxy, because it's stronger over time, in my experience.

Also, I'll pin the join when I can, so, for a 54mm figure or larger. I'll pin especially when the mating surfaces form a butt join-two flat surfaces butting against each other.  I just like the additional strength and gluing surface that pinning provides.  CA glue doesn't have sufficient shear strength for joins like that, in my experience.

In your case, did the glue not cure properly?  Did it cure but the join wasn't strong and the part was easily knocked off?  Or was there some other detail about the failure?

I just ask, to help get some clarity, to better inform my reply.  Because maybe it's not the glue, but the technique - maybe the join itself isn't strong enough, or something else.

Also, I don't use CA glue to assemble styrene parts; I use glues made specifically for styrene for that, like Tamiya's, Testor's, Plastruct's products.  I like the weld bond.  I use CA to attach unlike materials, like PE to styrene, resin to styrene, resin and white metal; or to bond materials other than styrene to like materials - resin to resin, metal to metal.

Hi Don;

       I also use C.A. on just about everything I do, there are times you need the stuff. Although it's minimal, I have learned that it's best to wash, gently, all plastic parts too. The mold release agent might be " Space Age" But some paints and glues will not stick to the stuff. And you can't see or smell it!.

 I also do what Eaglecash mentioned. A teensy drop of water works just as well as accelerator. Sure is cheaper than the accelerator you buy!

I forgot to mention- resin is notorius for lots of mold release on the casting. I wash all resin castings before either gluing or painting.

I’m with you on this Greg--CA glue can be szoooo frustra...

Hi Pawel:

 Hey, don't be surprised. I use the stuff on Paper-Models too. I find it's neat for getting that stubborn flap or bend to stay put after assembly! And if the seam is stubborn hold it with tweezers and then hit it with accelerator. It holds ( pardon the pun) "Super Good"

seastallion53

I use loctite.

 

Tojo72

I was trying to glue an arm to the torso of a resin figure using my newly open bottle of CA.I might as well spit on it for all good the glue did,it does a good job of sticking my fingers together or to a part.

So,I couldn't locate an old thread on good super glue types that you find effective.What brands and types do you recommend for effectiveness and longevity in the bottle

Thanks 

I've only ever used the CA glues made by Bob Smith Industries, whether they were sold under BSI's own label, or sold under another label.  The local HobbyTown, for example, sold BSI's product, but in bottles labeled for HobbyTown.  I didn't seek the brand out; it's just what local stores had on their shelves.  Generally, I haven't had any problems with it.  I only ever had one bottle gel on me in a short time.  I usually use the quick-curing formula, cures in 5 to 15 seconds.  The one that went bad was a slower cure.

I also use BSI's 2-part epoxy glue, too, never had any problems.  I did learn a lesson, though, about using the slow-curing formula.  I had to sit there for 15 minutes holding a piece till it cured-not often possible to jig the pieces I work with.  When I used up that batch, I got the 5-minute cure formula instead.

seastallion53

I use loctite.

 

I use both their thin regular stuff and their gel stuff which is gap filling and slower setting. 

When plastic parts break, there is often some slight stretching, meaning tke parts do not fit together perfectly.  In this case you must use the gel (gap filling) stuff.  The thin regular stuff should only be used for a perfect fit.  I find few pieces  fit together perfectly, so I use a lot more of the gel stuff than the regular.  Like the longer working time too.

The gel stuff has some sort of bladder inside that allows me to get the last drop out.

Tojo72

Is this the stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFZ3Q5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yI19FbX8H2PCK

 

Yup.  That's the Gorilla CA that I use.  I used it to bond the resin LH-mount HTS pod and Sniper ATP pylon to my F-16CJ intake at a fairly early stage in my build.  Even with all of the handling the whole thing has gotten since then, neither thing has popped off.  Also used it for the two resin pieces that make up the Sniper ATP pod.  Its a medium-viscosity CA that overcomes alot of the issues with porous surfaces that Pawel mentioned.  Another good way to accelerate a CA bond, if the situation allows, is to bond the two pieces and then give them a quick dunk in water.  Cuts off the free oxygen supply and gets an instant cure.  The only possible drawback to the water method is that it usually turns the CA a milky white color.  Not usually a problem though unless it doesn't get painted afterward.

Tojo72

Is this the stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFZ3Q5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yI19FbX8H2PCK

 

No, that link is to CA. This is their epoxy Glue.

This is the stuff I use, and I won’t buy or use anything else.  A buddy of mine buys it a commercial tile place and sells it at his gaming store.  

(music) All I am saaaying - is give CA a chance! :-)))

Here are some tips you might try to get CA to work better:

Parts fit: CA won't really fill gaps between parts - unless you give them loong minutes without moving the parts in relation to each other, so it's important to have fitting surfaces. Like my dentist put it - the glue works best when it isn't there - you should minimize the amount of CA in the joint.

Surface condition: the surfaces should be clean, not very porous, prefarably unpainted (risk of parts lifting up the paint and coming off). The trick that works best for me is to wet down the surfaces with styrene glue = lacquer thinner = acetone, MEK, butyl acetate or a mixture thereof. This degreases the surfaces, but also in some way works as an accelerator for CA, so it gives you stronger and quicker drying joints.

Application - I usually apply CA by means of a piece of thin copper wire - so I have a tiny droplet at the end of the wire, that I spread when there is a suitable surface, or I let the parts join wick that tiny droplet in - we're talking about highly liquid CA here. This also helps to minimize the amount of CA necessary to do the job.

There's also one more use of CA in modelling, and not only - I use it to close cuts on my fingers when something bad happens... Once I was bending an aluminium tube for an exhaust stack of a 1:24 truck. The tube ripped right under my thumb and took a nice round chunk of that thumb out with it's jagged edge. Started to bleed like a pig right away, so I just grabbed come CA and glued the chunk back in. That helped to manage the bleeding and mostly took care of the wound. Hey - that's what the glue was invented for!

So don't give up on CA - it might help you some day!

Thanks for reading and have a nice day

Paweł

I'll look when I get home to make sure, but I'm pretty sure that's the stuff.

Is this the stuff

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFZ3Q5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yI19FbX8H2PCK

cbaltrin

I've only ever used Zap CA. Well, thats not true actually. I used another brand briefly which made me resolve to only use Zap :-)

Now i mostly us ca for filling and sanding, so i may try gorilla for assembly tasks...

Gorilla works really well for filling and sanding too.  Had a "what the hell..." moment one night at Walmart and picked some up, just because I was so frustrated with paying out the nose for hobby brands, only to have the nozzles clog and the stuff in the bottle gel to the point of being worthless after only a few months.  Been using the Gorilla from Walmart ever since.

Space Ranger

Use epoxy instead.

 

 

Yes! I’ve tried Gorilla Glue 5 Minute Epoxy on my last couple of projects where I would normally use CA. The stuff works great. If you can hold the part in place for a couple of minutes one way or another, try it. It has its own learning curve, but that is quick to get over.

I've only ever used Zap CA. Well, thats not true actually. I used another brand briefly which made me resolve to only use Zap :-)

Now i mostly us ca for filling and sanding, so i may try gorilla for assembly tasks...

Yes , I use JB weld 5 min set . Its available in other setting times, at automotive stores.

Like Greg, I use Bob Smith, also use Flexy for PE parts.

Use epoxy instead.

Tojo, I cannot resist jumping in on a thread about CA, especially when somebody is complaining because it is my least favorite of all of our typical adhesives**. For the reasons you mention and more.

Trouble is, when it's the only thing that's gonna work, what are ya gonna do?

The longest shelf life I've found is Bob Smith's BMI, those are the bottles typically rebranded with store names on them, which you probably already know.

Thanks for this thread and I'll be watching and learning. I'm always looking for a better and longer-lasting CA. I see Eaglecash already shared some favorites.

One thing I finally learned is stop buying the big bottles to save money.

**that's PC-gibberish for I hate the stuff

Gorilla Super Glue with the light blue cap for most things.  Where you need a little flexibility and a little more working time, VMS Flexy 5K is also excellent.  Both have pretty much the same tip design, which never clogs, and have a good shelf-life (probably mostly due to not having to screw around with clogged tips all the time).