Aussie Modellers

J.S. I have just updated my profile to include my e-mail address. Shoot me off an e-mail with your postal address on it and I will send you up a bottle of Pledge.

Ships!!!.........now that's what I should be modelling. Spent 10 years in the Aussie Navy from 76 to 86. Maybe I'll try one of them as well - see how I like it!

Bob

Here I am again folks!

What do you all use to clean your aibrushes after using Tamiya acrylics? Is it windex? Can someone please tell me the cleaning process in a nutshell - both at colour changes and after painting is over for the day. How often should I rip the whole kit and kaboodle apart? (Badger Anthem). I know I could probably get this info from the Airbrush section but I wanted to get the 'good oil' from the locals.

Many thanks,

Bob

I AM WEAK! I AM WEAK! Came across the computer room in my local library and found myself in here! Sad or what? Still waiting for the flaming blood sucking solicitors to finalise the paperwork for the house sale so not out there yet! %@##@**%""##@!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob,

Windex Clear, not the blue one, or a 50/50 mix of metho and water, will clean your airbrush, after using Tamiya Acrylics, how often do you won't to strip it down is entirely up to you, if you do a tricolour tone on a model, general rinse between colour chages, then strip it down and clean.

Hope it helps
Rob.

Many thanks for your help again Rob. I am going to have my first test play with the airbrush this weekend. I'll let you know how I go!

Bob

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount J.S. I have just updated my profile to include my e-mail address. Shoot me off an e-mail with your postal address on it and I will send you up a bottle of Pledge. Ships!!!.........now that's what I should be modelling. Spent 10 years in the Aussie Navy from 76 to 86. Maybe I'll try one of them as well - see how I like it! Bob

Okay Bob i'll send you an email,how do you want me to pay for it maybe you can send me via email your bank account details and i can deposit it in.
Thanks for going to the trouble on my account muchly appreciated

Yeah Aussie ships, the unavailability of ships like the Canberra in a decent scale 1/350
is FRUSTRATING
One of my favourites would be the AE11 but iv'e only seen it in 1/700 scale that would make it about as long as my middle finger;i personaly find that sacle for a sub ridiculous,1/125 would seem more realistic.sorry for raving but i like my ships big.
J.S.

G'Day J.S.

I would give me eye teeth for a 1/350 scale model of the DDG HMAS Perth.

No worries with the Pledge - wasn't any trouble - I bought a bottle for you when I was in the supermarket the other day. I'll post it as soon as I get your address.

Bob

You see Chris didn't Tweety say it you'll be back .

Your not wrong about thosesoliciterswe have just sold our house and the charge $300 just to write a bloody letter.

Bob i'm assuming that this will be your first go at airbrushing so Have fun
OOHHH one more thing don't forget to filter your paint.

J.S.

Thanks for the advice! What do you use to filter your paint and what method do you use to get it from bottle to colour cup?

Bob

Bob i use ladies stockings to filter the paint after i've thinned it,i usually make a 60/40 mix but it depends on how thick the paint is in the bottle.

As far as mixing is concerned i use a large syringe to get it out of the bottle and then i slowly push it out into my mixing cup.I use the clear plastic cups that you get with Mizone sports water,then i pour the thinned mix into another cup through the stocking,and then into the airbrush cup.
If your doing multiple colours have them all mixed and filtered before you start airbrushing.the most colours ive done at once is 4 on three different models.
One more thing when i rinse the airbrush between coats i use Tamiya x20a thinners not windex i guess im paranoid about having windex still in the airbrush when i paint the next colour.
After i finish painting for the day i pull the airbrush apart and give it a good clean with the windex and then i reassemble it and run some X20a through it.
I know it sounds complicated but theres nothing worse that having lumpy paint it just spoils your whole day.
[PS] I only exercise to get more Mizone cups, you see modelling is good for the mind and body.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount G'Day J.S. I would give me eye teeth for a 1/350 scale model of the DDG HMAS Perth. Bob

I've heard a plastic-injected 1/350 O.H.Perry is coming out end of this year or early next. I forget who, but it cant be Panda cos they have announced enough future releases in 1/350 for the next 10yrs, so I guess (and I can check this later) it is Dragon.

Bob,

Have a look on this site www.armsmodelit.com.au they have a packet of 10 dropper things, which is what I use for transfering paint, or an eye dropper from the Chemist. I mix my paints in a medecine cup.
Al is in Brissie and he is very helpfull, to modellers.

Rob.

Thanks for that J.S. Got your e-mail and will post the Pledge on Monday.

Luke, had a bit more of a squizz around and found a Charles F Adams DDG Class 1/350 (same as HMAS Perth) at White Ensign in resin. Looks pretty impressive but the cost is around AU$300 plus postage. My budget doesn't stretch that far yet but maybe one day!!! We can all dream can't we.

Well, I have pretty much finished my Mossie for the group build. A couple of coats of Pledge and then I will post a few pics! That leaves nothing on my bench so I am tossing up what to do next? Think I might make a start on that 1/32 Revell Tornado. Not much available in aftermarket ware for this one apart from a detailed cockpit set that will put me back about as much as I paid for the kit so this one will be OOB as well. Might also look at doing a second kit for the Aussie Group Modeller build - maybe a Huey or a Sea King.

Bob

Thanks for the link Rob,

Have had a look at Al's site and there is certainly some gear there I will be ordering.

Bob

QUOTE: Originally posted by ChrisJH666 I AM WEAK! I AM WEAK! Came across the computer room in my local library and found myself in here! Sad or what? Still waiting for the flaming blood sucking solicitors to finalise the paperwork for the house sale so not out there yet! %@##@**%""##@!!!!!!!!!!!

Like you chris could'nt keep away, manage to con my son in law to let me use his system, told him that I would be unbearable if I didn't get my FSM Forum fix

Enjoying holiday - Now in Penrith, won second place in the Large Scale Fiqures in the ACTSMS comp last weekend.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount Luke, had a bit more of a squizz around and found a Charles F Adams DDG Class 1/350 (same as HMAS Perth) at White Ensign in resin. Looks pretty impressive but the cost is around AU$300 plus postage. My budget doesn't stretch that far yet but maybe one day!!! We can all dream can't we.

Yeah - only Cold-War era ships like OH.Perry's & CF.Adams are produced in resin, by Blue Water Navy & White Ensign respectively. OzMods are producing HMAS Sydney, Melb & Veg aircraft carriers, and also has a 1/350 Vampire/Veg (i forget which one), but are in resin.

there actually is no plastic-injected cold-war ships that fit our needs yet, but Revell AG recently had a survey, and heaps of us salt-dogs from Modelwarships.com raided the survey and flooded it with cold-war era ships. I know for a fact that a plastic OH.Perry is coming out soon, which means a large-scale, large-produced, plastic-ship, that can be adapted for RAN use will be available.

Finally I get some time off work.
Been hell last 2 days!!

j.s., so far things are looking ok for the Darwin trip, and there will be 2 memory cards loaded with pics, might try and get tricky and make a panoramic view.

And I noticed some airbrush queries here, from Bob.

May be useless info, but here in Oz we don't have the sort of stuff these Americans can get their mits on.

So after the continual messing around with my Omni 4000, this is what I have found that compares to all their stuff.

For rinsing out my airbrush, I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and the best stuff is called Viponds Prep Vinyl.
Comes in a 1 litre container, and dilutes into distilled water for a really decent thinning agent.
I also use it to rinse out my airbrush, and it works just fine with both Tamiya and Gunze acrylics.

And if the acrylic is drying a little to fast for your liking, Viponds Taut Flex is the acrylic Retarder that works an absolute charm.
This also dilutes into distilled water, and Iso/Prep Vinyl.

Basically, my paint mix consists of,
Distilled water
Prep Vinyl
Retarder
and of course, Paint.

With the retarder, I add 3 or 4 drops, and this gives the paint a drying time of around 20 minutes at room temp.

All up, the Prep Vinyl and retarder will cost about $20, and lasts close to forever, and is available at any paint store.

Just my 2 cents

G'day Luke, thanks for the additional info. I served on HMAS Perth for nearly three years so I am particularly keen on the CF Adams class though I wouldn't mind building an FFG either. Someone produced what I believe is a 1/700 kit of one of the FFG's that is still available cheap but I am reluctant to give that a go. Hopefully your representations to the Revell AG won't fall on deaf ears!!! I would appreciate it if you keep me posted if you hear anything. By the way Luke, I notice the anchor in your signature are you Navy or ex Navy?

Many thanks for your advice Tweety1. I will see what I can dig up at my local paint store. I know the consistency of the paint should be similar to milk but what ratio of distilled water, prep vinyl and paint do you use for say a Tamiya acrylic?

Sorry to bug you all with these questions but I sincerely appreciated everyone's help.

Many thanks,

Bob

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount G'day Luke, thanks for the additional info. I served on HMAS Perth for nearly three years so I am particularly keen on the CF Adams class though I wouldn't mind building an FFG either. Someone produced what I believe is a 1/700 kit of one of the FFG's that is still available cheap but I am reluctant to give that a go. Hopefully your representations to the Revell AG won't fall on deaf ears!!! I would appreciate it if you keep me posted if you hear anything. By the way Luke, I notice the anchor in your signature are you Navy or ex Navy? Bob

Dragon produces a 700th HMAS Sydney 'Adel. Class' FFG, which is actually very nice. So if you like 700th ships, go for it. Me, personally, I do 350th or very close (eg Monograms Boxscales of 1/310 to 1/400) but 99% of my ships are plastic 350th. I dont do resin; I dont know why, but I dont like the cost . There's a RAN FFG by LEE in 1/300 scale - dont buy this model cos it's crap.

If your a salt-dog, as I know you are, check out www.modelwarships.com & http://steelnavy.com which are the 2 biggest internet naval modelling sites with model gallery's, walk-arounds, reviews, references, and forums (of which you'll find me there as luke - surprise surprise ). Some Ex-RAN-Navy & RAN enthusiasts wander around there. Also, a few guys have done conversions to Perth Class HMAS Hobart using the WE Model.

The anchor is to do with FSM actually. You may have seen guys with Group Build badges, well there are badges which show others which forum's you visit the most. If you visit the Ship Fourm the most you use the anchor; the Aircraft fourm use planes that are blowing up armour; etc. Only Sci-Fi, A/C, Armour & Ship forums have their own badges.

Me, . . . I'm not in the Navy . More of an Army fan myself (kinda ironic). My Uncles were in the Army, and I have done army cadets all throughout skool. I'm 23 and a Physiotherapist by profession. But my favourite modelling subjects are ships - carriers, subs (esp uboats), BB's, and anything that floats. I must admitt the only naval ship I've seen in real life was the Oberon Sub at the Fremantle Martime Museum. This is coming from a guy who lives in & around Perth - home of HMAS Stirling ; and home to many ship building companies (but that's another story for another post). My Uncle bought me a model battleship for my 12th Birthday, and I was totally hooked. He's got a lot of explaining to do . Anyway, that's me!

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount Many thanks for your advice Tweety1. I will see what I can dig up at my local paint store. I know the consistency of the paint should be similar to milk but what ratio of distilled water, prep vinyl and paint do you use for say a Tamiya acrylic? Sorry to bug you all with these questions but I sincerely appreciated everyone's help. Many thanks, Bob

No problem at all Bob.
The water and iso are made at a 70% iso/30% water ratio. This mix is now my thinner.
It costs less than the Tamiya x20A, for the price of iso and water, it makes the equivalent of 8 x20A bottles roughly, and it dries slower.

Then this is mixed at any ratio you like with the paint.

All depends on how your airbrush likes it's drink really.

Mine usually likes a 40/60 paint /thinner ratio, (when the brush works) but yours could be different.

All my measurements are made with a glass pippet, courtesy of my 8 month olds Panadol bottle. (after it's empty of course)

After my paint and thinner is ready for the brush, I usually add 3 drops of the retarder.
At one time during testing I added 6 drops of retarder, and it took the paint 2 1/2 hours to dry. Too long for an acrylic.

After I'm done spraying, I flush with pure Iso, and thats it.

I only strip my brush down after every 6th session, cause the alcohol really cleans it out thouroughly.

Then a little Super Lube on the needle, and off to painting again!!!!

QUOTE: Originally posted by tweety1 Finally I get some time off work. Been hell last 2 days!! j.s., so far things are looking ok for the Darwin trip, and there will be 2 memory cards loaded with pics, might try and get tricky and make a panoramic view.

Enjoy your break tweety1, Im enjoying mine. If you want to take a photo of the B52 in Darwin I would learn to take that panoramic view.

QUOTE: Originally posted by South Aussie QUOTE: Originally posted by tweety1 Finally I get some time off work. Been hell last 2 days!! j.s., so far things are looking ok for the Darwin trip, and there will be 2 memory cards loaded with pics, might try and get tricky and make a panoramic view. Enjoy your break tweety1, Im enjoying mine. If you want to take a photo of the B52 in Darwin I would learn to take that panoramic view.

Panoramic and then some!

From what I have been told by the guy up there, you can actually have a good sticky beak at one of the nacelles.

All the items there are on my list of to do's, providing I get the time off from playing.

Hey Tweety is the museum the one that has the Spit 8 in it,if so could you take a couple of shots of the wheel struts for me.

Okay the 1/72 scale type V11c U-Boat should be in my posseision by the end of the week after a long layby of 2 weeks and i'm planning on starting it straight away[with much eagerness] i'll be taking some pics for the Sub GB of the boxed model so i'll stick one or two up in here just so you guys can see the size of this beast.

Getting back to Aussie ships,i know there is 1/700 kits of Aussie Warships out there but i don't seem to be able to build little ships.
What i really want is the WW11 Cruisers Canberra and the Sydney in 1/350.
and lets not forget the AE11 in 1/125.Keep dreaming.....

I got a ship building bug after seeing all the fantastic models at the QLD maritime museum,Not to mention the HMAS DIAMONTINA a WW11 Frigate in drydock,almost fully accesable to the public.

As u know, there aint 350 WWII RAN ships, but 1/700 is the next best thing.
Combrig Model Warships is a company that has produced or will produce specific RAN WWII ships.
Kit No. HMAS Canberra, Australian Heavy Cruiser - 1928 Now Available
Kit No.70292 HMAS Australia, Australian Heavy Cruiser 1928 - With HMAS Canberra, the two Australian County Class Cruisers. Coming Soon 2004

I've seen/heard that they are releasing the Sydney & the German HSK Kormoran, in separate & combined kit releases. I'm trying to find the webpage (LOL).

No problem j.s., but the Spit they have is a replica, not a rebuild.
So I'm not sure how accurate the struts will be, and they have it fenced off, but I'll see if they will let me lie down on the floor and get some good pics.

At the moment the planned trip is still for 16th July, so fingers crossed.

I'm Back,
Had a bit of a layoff due to Hobby and Craft Fair, Birth of Gradndaughter and other stuff.
Would you PLEASE lay off solicitors!! They do all the hard work and get about 10% of the Estate Agents who do bugger all. If a solicitor has charged $300 for a letter go to the Law Society and put in a fizzer! Or change solicitor.
Dai

Hi all, I have a question i have a tamiya kit of a M113 ACAV? i also have the firestorm conversion set to convert it to the Australian vietnam specs. Does anybody know were i can get some decals to go with this coversion set? I tried Firestorm but they said they were in the pipline. I've heared that some were released quite a while ago? Any help would be great?

Trev

Trev,

Your converting the Tamiya M113 ACav, by fitting a T50 turret, to it, as that used by our Cav Units, with white callsigns, the tac signs for Vietnam are hard to get. Send me an email and I'll put something together for the tac signs. When in Vietnam those vehicles were painted French Artillary Green [not the US Olive Drab]. If it's the Tamiya one don't fit the the rear jerry can holders or the engine, supplied in the kit as it's a V8 petrol, ours are V6 Diesel, if you had the Academy M113 APC Vietnam, it has both the T50 turret and the V6 diesel engine.

Rob.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ChrisJH666 Got any books on Boomerangs in service???

There is a monograph book (or even two) about "Boomerang" and "Wirraway" - the only problem is that the language is exotic (it means: Polish) for you - with only some English translations. If you want it anyway, I will try to find them for you. Please contact me on my e-mail (goria@lodz.msk.pl). BTW - I'm also a big fond of "Boomerang" !
Regards ! "Aussi-leksander"

Love the name Aussi-leksander!!! No doubt Chris will be in touch!

Luke, White Ensign have both the Kormoran and Sydney in 1/700 in resin I believe for around 50 pounds each. Haven't been able to chase up a local supplier yet.

Bob