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Priceing, PE, after market $$$

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 15, 2016 2:25 PM

rooster513
 
Ahrenisavagabond

 

It is my hope that they someday kit builders will incorporate more PE right into certain kits. I'd be willing to pay a percent more for a kit that had PE integrated in altogether. Just don't gouge me with a huge markup. 

 

 

 

 

Eduard has their Profipack kit series which includes some nice PE. I picked up a Mk VIII at a show for $18 which is great for me b/c it's my first real taste of PE and I know there will be a learning curve. I think most of them run $40ish (correct me if I'm wrong) retail which isn't a bad deal considering the PE and level of detail most of them seem to have. Others would know better as this is the first Profipack that I've built.

 

That Eduard approach is a good way of doing it, offer the same kit in differant levels and at differant prices. But the PE set you get, at least in the kits of have seen, is the basic Zoom set for the pit. I don't know what scale your kit is, so hard to say if you got a bargain, but generally i think the Profi pack are a fgood deal when coimpared to the weekend versions.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Friday, July 15, 2016 2:47 PM

Bish
 
rooster513
 
Ahrenisavagabond

 

It is my hope that they someday kit builders will incorporate more PE right into certain kits. I'd be willing to pay a percent more for a kit that had PE integrated in altogether. Just don't gouge me with a huge markup. 

 

 

 

 

Eduard has their Profipack kit series which includes some nice PE. I picked up a Mk VIII at a show for $18 which is great for me b/c it's my first real taste of PE and I know there will be a learning curve. I think most of them run $40ish (correct me if I'm wrong) retail which isn't a bad deal considering the PE and level of detail most of them seem to have. Others would know better as this is the first Profipack that I've built.

 

 

 

That Eduard approach is a good way of doing it, offer the same kit in differant levels and at differant prices. But the PE set you get, at least in the kits of have seen, is the basic Zoom set for the pit. I don't know what scale your kit is, so hard to say if you got a bargain, but generally i think the Profi pack are a fgood deal when coimpared to the weekend versions.

 

 

Hey Bish, it's a 1/48 scale Spitfire Mk VIII. Yeah it's pretty basic and it's colored PE which I know some really don't like but it allowed me to see if PE is something I like working with and would willing to invest in.

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 15, 2016 3:19 PM

rooster513
 
Bish
 
rooster513
 
Ahrenisavagabond

 

It is my hope that they someday kit builders will incorporate more PE right into certain kits. I'd be willing to pay a percent more for a kit that had PE integrated in altogether. Just don't gouge me with a huge markup. 

 

 

 

 

Eduard has their Profipack kit series which includes some nice PE. I picked up a Mk VIII at a show for $18 which is great for me b/c it's my first real taste of PE and I know there will be a learning curve. I think most of them run $40ish (correct me if I'm wrong) retail which isn't a bad deal considering the PE and level of detail most of them seem to have. Others would know better as this is the first Profipack that I've built.

 

 

 

That Eduard approach is a good way of doing it, offer the same kit in differant levels and at differant prices. But the PE set you get, at least in the kits of have seen, is the basic Zoom set for the pit. I don't know what scale your kit is, so hard to say if you got a bargain, but generally i think the Profi pack are a fgood deal when coimpared to the weekend versions.

 

 

 

 

Hey Bish, it's a 1/48 scale Spitfire Mk VIII. Yeah it's pretty basic and it's colored PE which I know some really don't like but it allowed me to see if PE is something I like working with and would willing to invest in.

 

Ye, thats a good price for that scale. Your right in that this is a good way todecide if you wnat to do PE. The golden rule for PE for me is kowing which bits not to use as much as what to use.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, July 16, 2016 9:30 AM

The value of something is the price people will pay for it- sort of a definition of free market.

Alternative is price control- do we want that?  I suspect price controls reduces the selection of goods.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Billmc on Sunday, July 17, 2016 6:07 PM

I just want something for us mortal builders, a kit, a maybe less cost PE. Maybe have a type, like eduards for the elite builders. Then maybe a off brand, maybe not as detail?, for us low to med builders?

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Thursday, July 21, 2016 11:41 AM

Tojo72

 

the Baron

Putting on my old curmudgeon hat now, and saying that you can do what we did, back in the day, before there was PE or aftermarket anything, and scratchbuild those details.

And yes, I did build a model in the snow, uphill, both ways! Big Smile

Seriously, though, you really can scratch a lot of things that folks otherwise represent with PE or resin or whatever.  Some of you may know Bob Ciccone from the shows, he builds 1/700 ships, and while he does use contemporary aftermarket materials, he also scratches a lot of his details.  He makes rails, for example, from stretched sprue, and it looks fantastic.  The judges think so, too, since he wins awards for his models.  But this is to illustrate my point, that you can do those things yourself, too.  Aftermarket supplies are first and foremost a convenience.

Maybe you could Baron,but I have no scratch building aptitude at all Embarrassed So I will either build OOB or add a small amount of AM to my builds.

 
Actually, I'm not that good at it, though I'm getting better.  I'm Dutchy, meaning, I'm cheap, and I'd rather make it myself, than pay for the parts, though I've learned to apply common sense to that, too, that is, saving money isn't the only consideration.  For my ship builds, for example, I do use photo-etch for railings, antennae and aerials, etc.  But I look on a decision to add detail to a kit, as an opportunity to practice my scratchbuilding skills.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, July 21, 2016 5:50 PM

modelmaker66

That is why I look to ebay, and only buy a deal. If it is not what I want or in my price, then I don't buy it. It takes a little while to find the deals, but they are there. 

Now and then you do get good buys on eBay but the real bargains are at model vendor tables. The price of shipping ruins the great price for the item so I try to look for the ones offering free shipping or ones accepting offers.

At the modeling show vendor tables, I have purchased $30 to $60 kits for $15 to $25. I remember one show in Tennessee where an old guy was selling 1/72 models for $1 and $2 so I grabbed several kits including the Hasegawa Betty with the Ohka Mk. 11 factory sealed for $2. I also bought a Williams Brothers C-47 for $2. 

Then there are sellers asking close to retail so you have to walk around and check things out.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posted by ridleusmc on Saturday, July 30, 2016 5:12 AM

The cost of aftermarket parts, and the cost of our hobby in general is relative. 

I work with many fire-arms enthusiasts.  They spend $500 to $1500 on a firearm as often as I complete a kit (about 4 a year).  Then, they spend $25 for a box for ammunition which they can expell in minute, literally.  

Car guys and racers spend hundreds of dollars for every part they put into their machine.  Then, they buy race fuel at $5 a gallon.  Then, they see how fast it burns in a 1/4 mile.  

Boaters:  BOAT stands for, "Bust Out Another Thousand."  Fuel, dock fees, transport, storage for the winter.  Then, there's going to the boat, which entails food, beer and life preservers.  

I don't even worry about the cost of kits and aftermarket stuff.  A kit will keep me busy for months, and it's relatively cheap (compared to other hobbies.)

Just my 2 cents,

Chris 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Saturday, July 30, 2016 5:28 AM

I agree with you rideusmc , but by the very nature of modeling , alway's on the lookout for anything we can utilise in our hobby , most of us are tight , lol

 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Sunday, October 30, 2016 9:08 AM
Ummm, what's PE? I saw a thread somewhere, I think here on this forum, with a list of terms, abbreviations and the like. Now I can't find it - trying to get the lingo down. Tks

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Sunday, October 30, 2016 9:49 AM

Mrchntmarine
Ummm, what's PE? I saw a thread somewhere, I think here on this forum, with a list of terms, abbreviations and the like. Now I can't find it - trying to get the lingo down. Tks
 

PE is photo etch, thin brass sheets etched with acid to replace thickly molded plastic parts.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Sunday, October 30, 2016 11:04 AM

It's great stuff!

(you do need to use CA(superglue) though...regular model glue won't do it)

I am a huge fan of the color-zoom variety. I'm pretty good at painting, but can't even come close to what you get with a precolored instrument panel...especially in 1/72.

Here is a comparison of kit detail vs. the zoom PE.

All you have to do is cut off the molded detail, so you have a smooth surface to glue the PE to.

Occassionally, I'll splurge and get full detail sets. This A-10 is getting the works. precolored bits in the pit, you can see the "raw" piece on the turtle deck, where there was just smooth plastic.

With the color-zoom sets (which are usually quite affordable, for the difference they make), you typically get you panels, seat harnesses and a few other little do-dads.

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Sunday, October 30, 2016 12:28 PM
Hey fermis - ahhh, Tks! Was racking my brain trying to crack the abbreviation. Also, Tks for the great detail in the explanation - looks good! Out of curiosity, on your first pic where you say to cut out the plastic, would you cut out the arm panel leaving a small edge to gue the PE piece to? What about just lightly sanding the gauges, etc. to get a smooth surface to glue to?

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Sunday, October 30, 2016 12:44 PM

Mrchntmarine

What about just lightly sanding the gauges, etc. to get a smooth surface to glue to?

 

That is just what I meant.

In some cases, you'll have to sand down enough material to make up for the thickness of the PE part. As an example...sometimes the instrument panel is meant to sit right on the side consoles. If the PE side consoles are a bit long, the instrument panel will end up a touch high, then won't fit right within the fuselage or will be pressed against the coaming/shroud. This situation is pretty rare though, I've only encountered it a couple times...the other trouble spot being when the face of the IP meets the front edge of the side consoles, the thickness of the PE throws things off. The vast majority have been pretty much a "plug-n-play" situation...designed to fit without any modification, other than cleaning off existing detail.

 

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Sunday, October 30, 2016 2:18 PM

fermis

 

 

That is just what I meant.

In some cases, you'll have to sand down enough material to make up for the thickness of the PE part. As an example...sometimes the instrument panel is meant to sit right on the side consoles. If the PE side consoles are a bit long, the instrument panel will end up a touch high, then won't fit right within the fuselage or will be pressed against the coaming/shroud. This situation is pretty rare though, I've only encountered it a couple times...the other trouble spot being when the face of the IP meets the front edge of the side consoles, the thickness of the PE throws things off. The vast majority have been pretty much a "plug-n-play" situation...designed to fit without any modification, other than cleaning off existing detail.

 

 

IP??

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Sunday, October 30, 2016 6:31 PM

Mrchntmarine
 

IP?? 

Instrument Panel

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Tuesday, November 1, 2016 11:59 AM

fermis

 

 
Mrchntmarine
 

IP?? 

 

 

Instrument Panel

 

 

Ahhh, tks again!!  I'll have to start my own dictionary of abbreviations.

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

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