Yep those cheap thin metal shirt hangers are great to hold parts for painting things like a plane for example. I cut it to the length I need and if a twin jet engine as an example, I make a Y and run it up into the engine area and paint away. 

Also the Dollar Store and places like Walmart and Target have lots of thingies to use like padded multi grit sanding sticks, Q Tips, nail clippers, cheap hair spray (for weathering) , Flores wire (for detailing pits and engines) , and so much more.

Harbor Freight has some decent tweezer sets along with a brush cleaning set for air brushes. Speaking of Harbor Freight please stay away from the cheap Chinese air brushes. They may work for a while but you are better off with an entry level Badger or Paashe that  will not break the bank.

Excellent advice Jammer. This is exactly how i started and am still employing some of these tips namely because I'm cheap.

95% of the paint I use is Acrylic so I just go with the dust mask.  I spray outdoors when I use enamels or lacquers but that is a good tip about getting a respirator.

Go with a resperator.  A dusk mask is not enough.  Resperator filters last a lot longer for modelers since we are not spraying gallons of paint.  If you have a floor drain in your basement, you can run a spray booth vent tube into the drain.

I have been airbrushing for over 20 years and my first airbrush was a paasche H.  I still have it and still use it even though I now have 4 other airbrushes that are a lot more expensive then the paasche.  This is just personal opinion and other name brand starter airbrushes I am sure are just as good.

As others have mentioned, don't get a Chinese airbrush.  You will get frustrated and ruin all your hard work.  Chinese brushes do not smooth out the needle and fit and finish on the internals are bad.  The seals are usually weak and you end up with nothing but problems.

Join a local model group and ask some of the members their experience.  Some of them may even let you try their setup.  I have let new modelers come and try my setup so they can make a decision.

Not the chassis, it was the bottom 4th of the body.

Who cares if you forgot to paint the bottom side. You're not gonna see it when you display it anyway. LOL!

I painted My C7R with a testor's rattle can I got from Hobby Lobby on clearance for about $2.50.  Best paint job I've done.  If you want to go that route.  I use both the airbrush and rattle cans and enjoy both.   Also on the C7R from Revell, the instructions don't say so but the bottom of the body needs to be painted Gloss Black.  I found that out too late.  I had already put decals on when I noticed it on the box.  I thought dummy how'd you miss that.  When I when back to the instructions, I couldn't find where it said to mask it off and paint it black.  Another tip, read all of the instructions really good and look at the box, if you are going with that paint scheme.  Also, any parts that can be glued together and painted the same color, blue them together before painting.  Have fun.

I have a fan insert for a window . I modified it with a sparkless blower to vent my paint booth outside .They are available at any Home Depot .Oh, Hi too ! Another thing for A newbie I would definitely recommend Tamiya or Hasegawa .Especially Tamiya's P-47 " Bubbletop  ". Best model plane I've seen lately .  T.B.

See what you can rig up. Rven one of those ductless kitchen hoods with a filter is better than nothing.

Cats have really tiny lungs.

A dust mask works for me but I also open a window with a fan. Painting outside works great until a wind blows up, the temperature is below 60ish or the humidity is too high.

If you use acrylics the fume and toxicity problem is cut way down. Someone else may have a solution for you, but I would think there is a way of venting the exhaust into some sort of filter.

Thanks, modelcrazy

So I've been watching some youtube videos for airbrush beginners and something a lot of people recommend is either buying or making a spray booth. I plan on working in my basement so I don't really have any windows or anything to ventilate out of. 

So what if I just bought a mask of some sort? Would a dust mask work or would it need to be like a Breaking Bad-style respirator? 

Also, if I just did paint work in my backyard would that solve the problem too?

Thanks again

GMorrison

The academy B-17s are good models.

 

Lol, hate to be a jerk and (sorta) disagree with you GM but though the Academy 1/72nd B-17s are fine kits the newer Revell of Germany is hands down better in every way. And in the current issue of FSM the review of the new Airfix kit makes it seem even better yet. 

I don't think I've seen it mentioned Tamiya's 1/48th F4U Corsair. A bit out of what you listed as your interests but the kit is a gem. Fit that can't be beat, it's a 'insert X-excto knife and tube of cement in the box, shake, and it assembles itself' kit. Plus you can often find it for about twenty-five bucks US. 

armornut

Welcome Caleb, welcome to the exciting and fascinating world of modeling. I would recommend starting with a 1/48 or 1/72 scale aircraft,( you said you like planes), this will give you an idea of how big,( or small), the finished product will be. My personal comfort zone is 1/48th. There are a wide variety of inexpensive kits available ie. Revell, Monogram, Airfix, that have reasonable detail without being overwhelming to a beginner.

 ....

I agree with this thoroughly.  Revell/Monogram and Airfix put out reasonable quality at reasonable prices.  The fit is usually good, an important feature for a beginner.  Bad fits can be fixed, but you have to know how.

Tamiya has super quality, with super fit and super detail.  But the prices are high, as is the parts count.  While a high parts count gives better detail, it can be overwhelming to a novice.  The detail of Airfix and R/M kits are not bad, but not as good as Tamiya (this is changing- both of these companies are using new molding technoloties that give super detail).  For now, you need reasonable detail and good fit so that the model comes out okay.  The higher detailed kits can come later.

I would recommend staying away from Eastern European kits.  The fit on many of them are problematic, and I have trashed several of them, even with seventy years of model building experience.

My only advice (kind of a newby myself), don't buy a $25 AB from China. I had $25 left over on an Amazon gift card and bought one. Destroyed .2mm and .35mm needles in first month, I swear, just by cleaning the tips. Nozzle caps will break quite easily,also. The reviews sound great but....on the positive, quick connect and the "trigger contol" thingy fits my NEO perfectly. I agree with GoldHammer, go online with HobbyLobby and pick up a NEO for $50 with coupon and get it shipped to your house. Do you have access to any air compressor at all? If so, use that...

A compressor is the way to go. I found mine on eBay for a song and has lasted for years. The one thing that will help is a moisture trap.

As far as paint there are 3 major groups.

Lacquers: They are the best at adhering to the plastic or primer and spray like a dream but brush terrible. Most toxic in the air.

Enamels: They adhere well to the plastic or primer, spray well and brush OK. Medium toxicity in the air. You will need to experiment with the thinner mixture to spay to your liking

Acrylics: So-so at adhesion, harder to spray (there are pre-mixed acrylics that spray better) brush well. Least toxic. Acrylics tend to "tip dry". This is where the paint dries as it leaves the tip on the airbrush. There are retarders to help with this. Like enamels, the thinner mix is dependent to your liking.

The last group would be the metallizers. Typically, lacquers, they will look like metal if applied correctly but will require a good prep and usually a base coat.

To thin any of the above paints always use the manufactures thinner. They formulated it, they know how to thin it.

HL has an online presence, and I believe you can use the coupon there as well.  Guess I'm lucky as I have one within 20 miles.

The nearest Hobby Lobby is quite a drive away from me I'm afraid. So if I buy an airbrush from, say, Amazon, will I need to buy a whole air tank and regulator separately?

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KJDXHQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

calebmateo99

Thanks again guys. So basically for my first model I've chosen the Revell C7R Corvette for reasons I've explained above. If I get the hang of it quickly then from there I'll move on to the Monogram B17 and maybe the Tamiya BF109. 

I'm pretty solid on the tools I need but the one thing I'm still unsure about is paint. Is there any specific sort of paint I should look for? And how exactly does an airbrush work? Is it possible to even use an actual brush for things like this?

 

Thanks again guys. At first I was nervous that I'd annoy you with how painfully rookie-ish I am but you guys have been so helpful and have really made this a lot easier for me.

Thanks again

Caleb

 

An air brush runs off of an air supply, be it compressor or tank.  You will want to put a regulator and one of the red toss away filters on it to trap water.  Read Don's airbrush tips (found in the air brush section way down below). That will explain a lot and answer a lot of questions as to how they operate, as well as rewiews of several kinds.  If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, use the 40% off coupon to save boo-coo bucks on one.  The regulator with a guage and the filter will run you under $10 bucks at a Harbor Freight store.

If you get into the CA (super glues) there are generally 3 types....thick medium and thin.  The thicker they are generally the more working time you have with them. 

One tool you might want to make is to take a few sizes of sewing needles and cut off half or so of the eye.  Take a small section of 1/4 inch wood dowel and drill a small hole in one end, stick the pointy end of your cut down needle in said hole til tight, or glue in with some CA.  Works well for applying glues and such, way less messy and keeps it away from the fingers, mostly.  If you get any of the CA'a, get a bottle of the de-bonder at the same time, will save problems later when the inevitable happens and the part is in the wrong place or you turn into 4 finger John....if you drill down in the threads in the tools page there are some pics of what I just described.

Paints basically break down into enamels and acrylics.  Enamels take an enamel reducer to thin, and you can use laquer thinner for clean up (keep the laquer thinner away from the plastic though, will tend to soften and melt it in a hurry.  Acrylics are a water based paint, but try to stick with the makers thinners.  I find with Model Master acrylics I reduce 100-150% for air brushing through my NEO with MM thinner.  Tamiya acryoics about the same with their thinner.  Brush use is generally straight from the bottle.  Air brushing in thin coats does not hide details as seams and rivets like the thicker coats you get with a brush.  Enamels also tend to have an odor issue that some people object to, and you want GOOD ventilation when spraying them.  Acrylics tend not to have the odor problem.

Thanks again guys. So basically for my first model I've chosen the Revell C7R Corvette for reasons I've explained above. If I get the hang of it quickly then from there I'll move on to the Monogram B17 and maybe the Tamiya BF109. 

I'm pretty solid on the tools I need but the one thing I'm still unsure about is paint. Is there any specific sort of paint I should look for? And how exactly does an airbrush work? Is it possible to even use an actual brush for things like this?

Thanks again guys. At first I was nervous that I'd annoy you with how painfully rookie-ish I am but you guys have been so helpful and have really made this a lot easier for me.

Thanks again

Caleb

You're getting samples of all the info available on these Forums. It's all good. Main thing is to take your time, relax, and enjoy the hobby. The only person you have to please is yourself. I've been doing that for 70 of my 76 years and still having fun.

Looking forward to seeing pics of your builds.

Jim   

modelcrazy

The basic tools were pretty much mentioned. As far as glues, styrene glues weld the plastic together but take time to dry. Not great for clear parts. Cyanoacrylate glue (CA) or super glue bond the join and dry quickly, but be careful of gluing your fingers DO NOT use it on clear parts. PVA or white glue does not have the holding power for major parts but works well for clear parts since it dries clear and does not off gas which causes fogging.

 

Thanks for this. Prior to five minutes ago, I thought glue was just glue and absolutely would've screwed this up.

Hi Caleb,

I am fairly new to this myself. I built models as a kid, but hadn't touched one in nearly 20 years when I got back into it about a year ago. 

As a kid the only models I had access to were old Revell/Monogram and Lindberg kits, which were tooled in the 1960s. The fit was generally awful, and they always ended up looking like toys rather than scale models. Thankfully, I received a late education in better model options from my LHS.

Here are a few kits that I have built recently, with a focus on good fit:

Tamiya P-51, Tamiya BF-109, Tamiya Wildcat. All of these are ridiculously easy to build, look great, and should not require anything other than sanding the seams. These are "no putty" models. 9/10 in terms of fit.

Revell 1/48 Stearman, excellent fit and easy to build (for a biplane). 8/10.

Airfix 1/48 Boulton Paul Defiant, another no putty model although a little more complicated. 9/10.

Older Tamiya Kits: Rafe floatplane, Zero, Raiden, Brewster Buffalo. These were tooled in the 1970s and are good, but not great. Still miles ahead of the old Monogram stuff (IMO). You can get them for around $15, and they are easy to build and look good. 7/10.

Hope that helps!

The academy B-17s are good models.

calebmateo99

So I'm a bit new to this model-building thing. I've built a couple as a kid with my dad but my interest in the hobby has really picked up recently and I want to start my first solo project. The problem is that I really don't have a clue where to start. I don't really know anybody who shares this interest so I found this place.

So can any of you guys recommend a model to build that would be appropriate for a beginner like me?

My primary interest is aircraft, specifically WWII military planes (I'm a B-17 fanboy) and modern-day jetliners, but I'm really open to almost anything else aviation-related, or also if you know of a cool car model or something. Again, I'm pretty open. 

Now when I say "beginner," I really mean beginner. I've never built anything or really worked with my hands at all so keep that in mind in your answer. So also, what sorts of tools should I get my hands on?

Any help?

Thanks, guys

Hi and welcome, Caleb. I agree with most of the posts, just my personal feelings.

For aircraft a decent quality 1:72 model will have fewer parts, which reduces complications. The cost of those kits will be just a few bucks, versus several times more for larger.

The smaller size will be easier and faster to build, you're more likely to have a good result when finished, plus you won't turn out a larger and more expensive kit that leaves you disappointed. For cars, the other guys got it right in their recommendations.

For tools and supplies, an Xacto knife with #11 blade, a small file, some liquid cement, (I use Tamiya Extra Thin,) some 600 grit sandpaper, some paint and brushes, (the hobby shop should be able to outfit you.) That would get you started with the basics, very small $$$$ investment, then as you go you'll soon learn what else you need.

Just my thoughts, but for a beginning the easier and less complicated I think is better. Hope you find lots of enjoyment, good to have you as a member. Best of luck.

Patrick

 

Thank you so much for the responses, guys!

ModelCrazy mentioned the Monogram/Revell B17. It looks pretty good but I've been picking up some mixed signals about it. From what I hear, the Revell and Monogram B17s are basically the same kit but there are a couple things about them that are different. Most posts I've read online seem to favor the Revell one slightly more. Does anyone here have anything to say about that?

Either way, that B17 looks good but it seems a bit... big. I think I'll aim for that to be a second or third project and pick something simpler to do first so I can use all my screw-ups on that one. Wildcatfan247 mentioned the Revell C7R as a good beginner kit. I checked it out and I like that it doesn't have too many parts and seems pretty straight forward build. Most YouTube reviews say it can be finished in an afternoon so that seems like a good first run. I also like that you have to paint it yourself. Again, I'd like to get some practice with the airbrush on a model that it didn't take too long to build so that if I screw up the loss won't be as devastating. 

ManCityFan

this is a hobby that can get quite expensive, and I am not sure of how much you have to spend.  The absolute minimum for tools were mentioned above.  You absolutely need a #11 X-acto knife, the most used tool of the trade.  You also need sanding sticks or films of various grits.  Glue is obvious.  Hobby tweezers are very helpful.  You will also want some kind of putty for filling seams.

 

So I'm a student on summer break so my budget isn't exactly a mountain made out of silver. I can probably dedicate about $50-$75 a month to this. And yeah I can procure all those kits, plus the dual-action airbrush someone mentioned above. Anything else that would be useful to me? 

Well you said you like the 17. I would seriously look into the must build kit for any beginner. I think all of us have built the 1/48 Revell/Monogram B-17 at some point. It's an old kit with raised panel lines, fair detail and interior with a decent fit (the join seams are workable). The nice thing about it is it is big and easy, will introduce you into gap filling and it's a big enough easel to learn some painting and maybe a little weathering and you can find it for a nice price (you may have to shop a little to get the best price).

My 

If you wanted ships I would suggest the Revell Arizona for the same reasons.

Same kit