Dragon 1:35 UH-1H Huey WIP

Yes Gino is correct.  My Dragon kit is a German Huey and it comes with their soldiers.  They look nice... but I don't think I will ever use them.

One nice thing about this... nice selections of modern weapons especially UZI!!!  I shot it 20 years ago and I loved it...

Since I will not use them, please let me know if you want them and I will mail it your way no charge!

Gino- When you mentioned "cargo compartment" it rang the bell because you posted great information about the parts earlier.  I didn't realize it was that part... sorry about that!  All parts you listed have been noted on my instructions. 

Here it is... once again gap may be too wide.  I will apply gap filling CA and Mr Surfacer primer over the weekend.

Thanks again!

I wonder where they got the door on the tail boom, never seen that before.

The cargo compartment is on civil Hueys and some foreign versions.  They probably used a foreign one as referance for the kit.

Does that kit have crew figures?

No, he is using the UH-1H Heer (German) version.  It comes with some 1990s modern German soldiers.  The UH-1D Vietnam version comes with the 4 man crew for the helo.

  Lookin good Andy! I agree with Gino on the heat defuser if you don't mind the work it should look great. The horizontal stabilizers look fine on the tail boom. That gap is about right. I can't really tell but make sure they are level and aligned with each other. I wonder where they got the door on the tail boom, never seen that before.
  Does that kit have crew figures?

Coming along.  For the side cover piece, use #13, w/o the door.  US military Hueys didn't have the cargo compartment in the side of the tail.  The heat covers are a direct drop-in on the Revell kit.  They are too big for the Dragon kit.  I would cut the heat diffuser box off them and sand them down a bit on the inside, then shorten them to fit over the Dragon doors.  I bet they fit fine and will look great.

Gene- Thanks for the info about the gap.  I think I did good filling in those huge gaps using Zap CA.  It is a slow drying CA to fill in gaps... I didn't fill them up but little at a time til I am satisfied.  It is hard to see now but I will apply a coat of Mr Surfacer to see if they are OK or not. Appreciate you tagging along!!!

Gino- Glad you are pleased so far.  I will wait and see how much time I have left to use that cover for the cargo hook or not.  Thanks for the explanation about the toilet bowl.  I sanded it down and it looks more even but I didn't take another picture so I will do that tonight. 

Little update here...

Tail stabilizer Gene called are attached... remember I am still learning.

The instruction give me two options for the side rear door... looked at many walk around pictures but I couldn't find a good one.  Which door should I use for late UH-1H?  #13 or #23?

Another question... I am lost with those heat shields.  I am not sure if I called them correctly... the instructions from Fireball Company is very clear EXCEPT for those two.  It just said 'Replace part 71 & 72.'  I think it was talking about Revell set and I am building a Dragon set.

If you can look at the gap, they are narrower now.  Again thanks for your support!

Looking good.  As Gene says, the seam lines are all correct, they are just exagerated on the kit.  The cover is for the cargo hook, your choice to use it or not. 

You may want to sand the support for the toilet bowl under it where it meets the fuselage.  It should fit the angle on the spine there.  Also, the toilet bowl opening should be horizontal, not angled up at the rear as much.

Keep up the good work.

  Looking really great Andy! The gaps at the tail boom etc, are all where there are separations, but they should be much smaller lines. The entire tail boom could be removed at that point by removing four bolts! As for the other part they gave you, where are they showing it goes? It looks like a cover for the "hell hole" where the sling hook is. That hole should be there already, and those covers could be removed (they weren't used at all in Nam).
  Also when you get to the horizontal stabilizers on the tail, there was a gap between them and the tail boom so don't fill that one
 The M60 mounts are actually rather simple and should go on fairly easy. I think you have plenty of time at the rate your working. Keep it up!

Guys- Worked on the Huey for couple of hours last night but I couldn't post an update because the forum was down for its scheduled maintenance.  

I am really digging the "toilet seat"... it came from Fireball Company Gino recommended.  The seller warned me it will not fit but I brought it anyway.  It was a perfect fit... thank you Gino! 

I was pleased that the details is still visible inside the toilet bowl...

Since it fit so well it made me wonder if this Dragon set is really 1/32... not 1/35? 

There are some gaps but after looking at several walk around photos it is supposed to have some gap there.  But I am not sure because nothing looked the same in the photos. I think there is not supposed to be a gap in the joint between the fuselage and tail.

There is a part from Fireball Company... I don't think I am going to use it because it will not be visible and it is not worth time and effort to cut a hole and glue this. Maybe I can use my Dremel and sand the surface down instead of cutting it open? 

Another sneak peek at the Huey... all windows have been attached and masked except for the lower ones as glue was still drying.

Again, thanks for following my WIP... you guys have been great and helpful!

Carl- Thanks man!  I think I will make it... rest of build seems to be easier now and I hope the M-60 upgrade resin set is not that complicated... it sure looks like!

Gene- LOL!  I swear you had me worried that I went thru several walk around pictures I googled and I couldn't find those safety wires.  That was a good joke as I get it now.  I think I have done enough to the rotor head.  I replaced few more molded nuts with aftermarket nuts. 

I was going to follow up on this but the forum was down... crap!  I will post an update in few minutes...

deafpanzer

LOL. I have to see pictures first before I can do something.  Like I said I know little and I am still learning about Huey from you guys.  

My biggest concern is time as deadline is less that 3 weeks now.  Yikes!  Gonna hit the work bunch now for an hour or so... 

  Oh boy Sorry Andy, nobody, not even Fermis would attempt detail that small! I thought you would understand I was just kidding about the safety wires, and complementing your work by saying you could do it! Then when I start to explain last night, the forum goes down!

WOW Andy!  Very nice work being done on that bird.

3 weeks, you can do it

LOL. I have to see pictures first before I can do something.  Like I said I know little and I am still learning about Huey from you guys.  

My biggest concern is time as deadline is less that 3 weeks now.  Yikes!  Gonna hit the work bunch now for an hour or so... 

Hercmech

Safety wire comes in three main versions:  .041 .032 .020 of an inch.

Simulating that would be mindnumbingly small.

 Yeah but Andy could handle it!

Safety wire comes in three main versions:  .041 .032 .020 of an inch.

Simulating that would be mindnumbingly small.

Go for it Andy !

Yikes!  Safety wires?  Maybe I can do that . LOL I don't see it in the pictures Mel posted.  Glad you liked the improved look.  Surprised Dragon went substandard on this...

  I guess next you'll be adding the safety wires! Looks great Andy. 

Gino- Thanks!!!  Will try that... I'd hate to go back to LHS just for this and it will not be much to paint for the interior wall of engine.  It looks like all wirings and pipings were in aluminum. 

Guys- Because of you guys, I had to do something crazy... I wasn't pleased with the rotor head.  Coming from Dragon, it should have been done better.  So I added some details using great drawing Mel posted earlier...

I had ModelKasten bolts and nuts set... it is a must for serious modelers.  It comes in different sizes and shapes...

Here's updated rotor head...

What do you think?  I see poor molded bolts &nuts that I can replace with the MK upgrade set.  

You should be able to get close to ZC Green by mixing in a bit of yellow.

Thanks guys!  I don't think I have this color I will see what I have. I do have many MM green paint. Drab, olive, you list it.  Can I mix it with something to make it look like that zinc color? 

As Gene says, the inside of almost all the non-exposed panels was zinc-chromate green.  The ZC Green was is a anti-corrosive protectant as well as a paint color.

  Maybe this will help. The inside of most panels were actually the green color shown here. Although some had been painted OD like the front bulkhead that's behind the guy on his hands and knees.

PS, this is a UH-1B not an H.

Guys- Little update on the Huey... attached the halves of fuselage together.  I was very pleased that it was almost a perfect fit.  The tail part went together just great!  Used little putty to make the surface even on the lower part of fuselage. 

Only used Mr. Surfacer on the tail to hide the seam....

That's where I spent most of work filling and sanding... 

Now it is starting to look like a Huey... 

Plan to attach the top part of fuselage.  Which color should I paint inside the engine panel where the rotor is located... I assume black?  

Gene- Many thanks!  I figured it has to be there for the engine.  I think I can make the line narrower by applying Mr Surfacer 500 or 1000 or something like that.  

More to come... 

The engine cover was split at the top. The two halves were removed for inspection etc, so leave a little bit of the line there. It does look a little too big to me as is, but you do need the line.

Gino-  Thanks again!  Fuselage it is.  

Guys- Little update... the "fuselage" halves have been glued together...  the fit was almost perfect which surprised me.  I applied little amount of putty where halves met around the fuselage.  Then used Mr. Surfacer on the tail part... they are being dried at this moment.   

However there is one area I wasn't sure if I am supposed to apply putty to cover the line...

Time to go... taking my family to Cheesecake Factory for early Valentine Day.  Don't forget to take your wife out or something for her.  Maybe a model kit... 

I don't think so... my assumption it is supposed to be there and the crew can take it apart to work on the engine, correct? 

...half of body ...What's the correct word for this... canopy?

On a helicopter or airplane, the "body" is called a fuselage.  The canopy is the plexiglass windscreen or bubble in front of or over the cockpit.

Don't worry about paying me back for the help.  That is what the forum is for.

Gino- Thanks for the tip about parts!  You have been so helpful... how can I make it up?  

I used acrylic paint for weathering and it worked great.  Normally I use oil paint on my armors.  The cockpit has been glued to the half of body and left to dry overnight.  What's the correct word for this... canopy?  Remember I am still learning here.

Carl- Just say prayers that the fit is perfect then drink a ... that would help. 

I pretty much only use acrylics for weathering now.  They are great for washes.

Like I said somewhere near the start of this thread, the kit has parts for a bunch of different versions, but doesn't tell you which ones to use for which version.  A few notes once you start working on the fuselage, for a US Army bird, add part # B13 (w/o cargo door), not B23.  US Army Hueys didn't have the cargo compartment.  The other parts to look out for are the myriad of antennae that are provided.  So, leave off  B16, B17, B18 (x2), B20 (x4), B24.  Also, leave off C18 and B25 (w/D4).  Lastly, use parts B14 and B15, horizontal vents, on the engine cowling.  That should do it for options.    Keep up the good work.