FINISHED: SOA Chinook/my first helicoptor

To help get this back on the right track, here's a WIP photo!

The seats are finished and attached, but they took a lot of work, so I declined doing another set on the opposite side. Instead I fished around in the scrap bucket and fashioned some thingamajigs to help busy it up. I also added a textured napkin over the bulkhead there, to help suggest the quilting that's on the inside...dunno If I like the look of the napkin, so I might use something else for the rest of the interior.....

Guys,

Things got a little out of hand in this thread so I have edited several posts out in the interests of getting it back on track. Let's try to keep it out of the ditch from now on.

Cheers, Aaron

Whatever works for you.

HeavyArty

Why "Oh well"?  As long as you haven't closed it up, it would still be easy to fix with some black paint.

Because I like it how it is, thats why.

HeavyArty

Why "Oh well"?  As long as you haven't closed it up, it would still be easy to fix with some black paint.

Aww… don't be so harsh, it's her first chopper! Looks good from my end, keep up the good work!

Why "Oh well"?  As long as you haven't closed it up, it would still be easy to fix with some black paint.

HeavyArty

Looking pretty nice.  The whole cockpit area should be flat black though.  This allows for NVG compatablity and doesn't wash out the NVGs.

Check this thread for interior pics of a D model.

shoot, your right....oops. Oh well

Looking pretty nice.  The whole cockpit area should be flat black though.  This allows for NVG compatablity and doesn't wash out the NVGs.

Check this thread for interior pics of a D model.

alrighty, I finally got some pics to share!

I worked some more on the interior

Here's a bit of cockpit detail:

and what the interior is looking like; I still have more detail im adding:

OWL

Right, got ur. Just that over here, Hookin refers to the job that i do, which is the underslung loads.

Thanks for the info.  I spend my time around 60s.  For me, a 47 is that big beast that I walked by on the flight line.  As much as I hate to admit it, Hooks are quite impressive airframes with lots of variety for modelers, even on a standard airframe.  I agree that the sag in the 47 rotor system may not be that noticeable in 72nd scale but in larger scales, the small differences between the fwd and aft heads is just a little item, easily replicated, that can add some great visual interest.

I guess I should have clarified, there is a slight droop to the blades, they are 330 inches and 360 lbs each, there will be some bend. The Trumpeter 1:35 kit had blades with substantial droop in them and I have not built the 1:72nd version so I don't know if it has the same issue. 

Ish is right the forward head is canted forward 9 degrees and the aft 4 degrees for ground taxi. When you pick it up to a hover the Longitudinal cyclic trim actuators retract and level the swash plate.

On a side note, had my first flight on the controls in a MH-47G yesterday, I felt like a kid who discovered porn for the first time.

Can't wait to see more pics.

great discussion guys, I feel as if Im learning a lot!

I havent been able to work on the Chinook recently due to school work (yay, papers!) but I think I can get some time in this weekend. Fingers crossed!

What I meant is that after a year of being back home in the states, I'm headed back overseas to start working as a mechanic on CH-47s again.

Ish, when you say your about to start Hookin again, what exactly do you mean. As not sure if its the same as it would mean here.

The fwd head is canted forward 9 deg, & the aft head is canted forward 3-4 deg (been away from the bird all year), so yes the heads are not on the same plane.

Not trying to contradict the good info that hookdriver put out about the rotor blade droop, but the blades do have a degree of droop cause by the weight of the blades, but is is not very pronounced, & not something I would worry about in 72nd.

I'll post some pics again, just have to remember how to do it in this forum using a Mac, as I've had problems in the past .

Ish, about to start hookin' again after a years break...

I am not trying to argue the point, I would like to discuss it though.

Hookdriver-  The -47 blades are very stiff but it appears that there is a slight sag when looking along the length of the blade.  It is not pronounced but not surprising considering the weight and length of the blade.  It is slightly more noticeable on the back side of the forward head due to the design angle.  The aft head seems a little flatter as well.  Granted, these are my observations from being near them frequently, not working with them and crewing them, and could be a result of me seeing what I expect rather than what is actually there.

Regard the issue of the rotar blades, Hookdriver is deffinatly right. As i am just starting my 72nd matchbox kit, i have been paying a bit more attention to the aircraft here as i go to work, and thats one thing i did notice.

Thanks for that photo hook, that will come in handy.

Modelchasm - When you do your next 47 clamp the blades between 2 wooden rulers and dip them in hot water then cool them off, it seemed to work for me.

When I did my 1/35 "hook", as Hookdriver said, the blades also came "pre" drooped. FOr the life of me I couldn't get the blades completely straight, so I ended up flipping the blades over. This gave me almost exactly what I was looking for. However, if you flip them over the blades will switch rotors. Since they are directional, the blades that were meant for the front, now became the rear rotor blades and vice versa.

I'll be doing the same thing when I build up my 1/72 "hook".

I have not built a 1:72 chinook so I don't know how the blades are drooped. In Trumpeter's 1:35 they come pre-drooped, which is incorrect. If you look at a photo of a chinook on the ground the blades are straight, they actually droop at the head at  the horizontal hinge pins. So if you want it to be right you should actually straighten the blades. Disregard the writing on the picture I was trying to show someone how you would fold the blades. If you look on the inboard side of the blade you will see a circle with a bunch of holes drilled in it. That is the horizontal hinge pin where the blade will droop from.

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]

There are two ways that I like to do it.

The simplest way is to complete the head with rotors separately and place it upside down on a small plate that is about the same diameter as the rotor system.  Now place just enough weight on the hub to get it to touch the center of the plate and pour hot water over it.  I let it sit a minute or two and then pour cool water over it and let the whole thing cool and now I have drooped blades.  You can adjust the profile of the droop by changing the plate size to get the bend where you want it.

My favorite way of doing it is to use a hacksaw blade that is bent to the profile that I am going for (I have a 3 different ones for different types of blades) and taping a blade to it and using hot water again to set the droop.  This method is a bit more involved but allows you to better match the sag.  If you study pictures, you will notice that different blades sag differently.  Also, the head on most helicopters is tilted forward and there is a difference in the way the blades sag, depending on whether they are in front or back of the rotor disk (more noticeable on some aircraft than others).  This method is more involved but allows more control of the shape.

Either way works well, it just depends on what looks good to you.

thanks screaminhelo. I'm taking a bit of a break form the Chinook this week due to the holiday and being away form my dorm. The kit actually molded the rotors with a droop to them, so I was really happy I didnt have to do that on this kit. But could you still give a demo/advice on how to do it? I have a couple other Helos in the stash and I dont think their rotors are drooped.

Nice build Owl!  A little gizmology is definitely in order for the ramp area.  One could easily be driven to the looney bin trying to replicate all of the wires and Hyd lines found in this area, so suggestion is certainly the way to go here.  When you get to the rotors, don't forget to droop them.  It will make a huge difference in the appearance of the finished product and is pretty simple to do.  If you are unsure how to do this, just drop a line here and I am sure that help will be forth coming.

Hey Owl, like Pawel said about the rear interior .... there's a lot that can be scratch built in there. If it might help at all, I just finished up the posting on my 1/35 Trumpter CH-47D Chinook. The ramp interior is all scratched ... it's not 1/72, but it might give you some ideas. I can't remember on what pages stuff is posted on ... sorry ... you'd just have to scan thourgh it.

Lookin' good so far.

Yes I had a look, whether or not i can do it on a particular weekend depends on whether on not I am doing anything on that date.

Mmm... They may have silvered hope not, I might be able to clean it somehow?

the real red baron

 

I might be able to finish, but it's already saturday here, I might be able to start next weekend. I'm very busy this weekend. And I'm currently dealing with a corsair decal disaster. I sprayed the Matt coat on (Testors all-purpose dull coat) and the decals started fogging up?! I think I may of put too much Matt coat on?

Im currently desperately trying to remove the Matt coat on the decals with a damp cotton ball with soapy water. Incan show you pics via email if you want?

Did you bother looking at the GB? You can still participate even if you can not build this weekend.

Did you gloss coat your model before applying the decals? Sounds like they silvered.

I built my first model in 1 day… but it didn't turn out too great. I left out "not important pieces" like landing gear… bear in mind I was only 10.

I might be able to finish, but it's already saturday here, I might be able to start next weekend. I'm very busy this weekend. And I'm currently dealing with a corsair decal disaster. I sprayed the Matt coat on (Testors all-purpose dull coat) and the decals started fogging up?! I think I may of put too much Matt coat on?

Im currently desperately trying to remove the Matt coat on the decals with a damp cotton ball with soapy water. Incan show you pics via email if you want?

I remember finishing my first model in 1 day… I wouldn't say it turned out the best. But I suppose in oils do it agian. But it's already saturday… I might be able to start next weekend?

Im currently dealing with a corsair decal disaster… I sprayed the Matt coat on (Testors all-purpose dull coat) and all the decals are fogging up!! I can show you pics via email of you want. Trying to clean is off with a cotton ball, with soapy water.

the real red baron

I found it, but I wont be able to participlate I've just got so much to do.

Do you think you'll be able to finish a model in two days? I sure wouldn't be able too!

yup, Ive done it before. Started Friday afternoon, finished Sunday. Im planning on doing the same thing here, only with an added challenge of an AM cockpit set and a bit of scratch built details (like in the wheel wells--very barren!)