FINISHED: SOA Chinook/my first helicoptor

Owl, I just picked this kit up as well .... I can't do too much building on it at the moment, but I'm very interested to see what you do with it.... Good luck!

Wonderfull work, as per usual.

Ive thought about heli's mysf but never got one, I might in the future.

Keep the good work up, good luck!

thanks for the comments guys!

Trucking along, I began to make the seats for the interior. The seats have this red mesh backing, so thats what I started on first. Strips of paper colored red (on both sides) cut into strips and glued together:

the top rail is sections of paperclip.I made more mesh than I needed for the area, but I guess thats better than making too little! You can see a bit of the interior bulkheads I'm scratch-building in the uh...tail?...unloading?...back hatch?....area. The ribs were made from an old gift card, cut to shape. I wanted to leave the hatch open to see the interior, so adding detail to that area is a must!

Nice improvisation for the netting. Once everything is sealed up as some one is looking up the open ramp, it should look just fine. Just a thought, since I have not rode in a 47 for several years now, but IIRC, the area between the ribs behind the seats is covered with a soundproof quilting. If you are interested in trying to replicate that feature. and most of the interior is standard US Dark Gull Gray. The cockpit interior should be all Flat Black for use with NVGs.

Nice improvisation for the netting. Once everything is sealed up as some one is looking up the open ramp, it should look just fine. Just a thought, since I have not rode in a 47 for several years now, but IIRC, the area between the ribs behind the seats is covered with a soundproof quilting. If you are interested in trying to replicate that feature. and most of the interior is standard USDark Gull Gray. The cockpit interior should be all Flat Black for use with NVGs.

yes, ramp. That's the word I was looking for, Thank you! 

I was planning to use a napkin or paper towel for the quilting. What are NVGs?

Night Vision Goggles- dont ask me for the nomenclature of the ones the aviators use, but having looked thru them I can tell you that they give a far higher resolution and depth of field than the PVS-7s and PVS-14s I got to use. Fantastic devices! The black cockpit interior removes reflections from the cockpit interior that can interfere with the pilots use of NVGs under conditions that those are used.

We use the ANVIS 6's, if you need any photos for the build let me know, I have some on my computer.  They are of the D model but alot of the components are the same. Unfortunately I can't provide any G model pics (the regiment forbids it.)

Great subject Owl

I finished the gunship version 3 years ago, the base kit is the same and really good kit was.

You start really good

Following the wip

Hello Owl, Looks like a great start towards the next very nice model.I'd like to point out one area for you - it's like the insides of the rear rotor pylon. When the ramp is open you can look up, like inside of the pylon, and there you should see lots of machinery, most importantly the APU (Auxiliary Power Unit). It could be good to use some gizmology there, as the Italeri model is pretty empty in this area. Hope it helps, good luck with your project

Paweł

Pawel

Hello Owl, Looks like a great start towards the next very nice model.I'd like to point out one area for you - it's like the insides of the rear rotor pylon. When the ramp is open you can look up, like inside of the pylon, and there you should see lots of machinery, most importantly the APU (Auxiliary Power Unit). It could be good to use some gizmology there, as the Italeri model is pretty empty in this area. Hope it helps, good luck with your project

Paweł

oooh! thanks for the tip. None of the walk-around photos I've found actually showed that area, so I was just gonna box it off.

Glad I could help. By the way, maybe I could help some more - here are four pics I secured off the internet some time ago - see I want to build the Chinook some day too. Hope the won't give you too much of AMS. here we go:

That'd be it for now - good luck with your build, have a nice day

Paweł

those pics are great, Pawel!

I've gotten a bit more scratch building done in the ramp area. Thanks to Pawel, I'll be adding more in the rear rotor tower, Here's where Im at now:

I was also able to finish up the seats. The frame work is straightened paperclip, the "fabric" is red-colored paper, and the legs are copper wire. Looks pretty good to me, and it adds a nice splash of color to the otherwise drab Helo. Here's me test fitting/seeing how it looks:

the Chinook has been scooted aside for now, to allow me room to work on my "Weekend Madness" kit.

OWL

This is turning out great! I might have to give a heli a go sometime. I do like the Sikorsky MH-53.

Keep the great work up! What are you building for the weekend madness?

really nice job on this, a lot of effort being put into it.

the real red baron

This is turning out great! I might have to give a heli a go sometime. I do like the Sikorsky MH-53.

Keep the great work up! What are you building for the weekend madness?

Thanks RRB

Im building a little bf-109

When's it start? 

I might join, I probably won't finish but… why not! I've got a hobby boss P-40N in the stash.

I'll be following your build!

look it up in the GB section. Its being held this weekend, but exceptions can be made if schedules conflict.

I found it, but I wont be able to participlate I've just got so much to do.

Do you think you'll be able to finish a model in two days? I sure wouldn't be able too!

the real red baron

I found it, but I wont be able to participlate I've just got so much to do.

Do you think you'll be able to finish a model in two days? I sure wouldn't be able too!

yup, Ive done it before. Started Friday afternoon, finished Sunday. Im planning on doing the same thing here, only with an added challenge of an AM cockpit set and a bit of scratch built details (like in the wheel wells--very barren!)

I remember finishing my first model in 1 day… I wouldn't say it turned out the best. But I suppose in oils do it agian. But it's already saturday… I might be able to start next weekend?

Im currently dealing with a corsair decal disaster… I sprayed the Matt coat on (Testors all-purpose dull coat) and all the decals are fogging up!! I can show you pics via email of you want. Trying to clean is off with a cotton ball, with soapy water.

I built my first model in 1 day… but it didn't turn out too great. I left out "not important pieces" like landing gear… bear in mind I was only 10.

I might be able to finish, but it's already saturday here, I might be able to start next weekend. I'm very busy this weekend. And I'm currently dealing with a corsair decal disaster. I sprayed the Matt coat on (Testors all-purpose dull coat) and the decals started fogging up?! I think I may of put too much Matt coat on?

Im currently desperately trying to remove the Matt coat on the decals with a damp cotton ball with soapy water. Incan show you pics via email if you want?

the real red baron

 

I might be able to finish, but it's already saturday here, I might be able to start next weekend. I'm very busy this weekend. And I'm currently dealing with a corsair decal disaster. I sprayed the Matt coat on (Testors all-purpose dull coat) and the decals started fogging up?! I think I may of put too much Matt coat on?

Im currently desperately trying to remove the Matt coat on the decals with a damp cotton ball with soapy water. Incan show you pics via email if you want?

Did you bother looking at the GB? You can still participate even if you can not build this weekend.

Did you gloss coat your model before applying the decals? Sounds like they silvered.

Yes I had a look, whether or not i can do it on a particular weekend depends on whether on not I am doing anything on that date.

Mmm... They may have silvered hope not, I might be able to clean it somehow?

Hey Owl, like Pawel said about the rear interior .... there's a lot that can be scratch built in there. If it might help at all, I just finished up the posting on my 1/35 Trumpter CH-47D Chinook. The ramp interior is all scratched ... it's not 1/72, but it might give you some ideas. I can't remember on what pages stuff is posted on ... sorry ... you'd just have to scan thourgh it.

Lookin' good so far.

Nice build Owl!  A little gizmology is definitely in order for the ramp area.  One could easily be driven to the looney bin trying to replicate all of the wires and Hyd lines found in this area, so suggestion is certainly the way to go here.  When you get to the rotors, don't forget to droop them.  It will make a huge difference in the appearance of the finished product and is pretty simple to do.  If you are unsure how to do this, just drop a line here and I am sure that help will be forth coming.

thanks screaminhelo. I'm taking a bit of a break form the Chinook this week due to the holiday and being away form my dorm. The kit actually molded the rotors with a droop to them, so I was really happy I didnt have to do that on this kit. But could you still give a demo/advice on how to do it? I have a couple other Helos in the stash and I dont think their rotors are drooped.

There are two ways that I like to do it.

The simplest way is to complete the head with rotors separately and place it upside down on a small plate that is about the same diameter as the rotor system.  Now place just enough weight on the hub to get it to touch the center of the plate and pour hot water over it.  I let it sit a minute or two and then pour cool water over it and let the whole thing cool and now I have drooped blades.  You can adjust the profile of the droop by changing the plate size to get the bend where you want it.

My favorite way of doing it is to use a hacksaw blade that is bent to the profile that I am going for (I have a 3 different ones for different types of blades) and taping a blade to it and using hot water again to set the droop.  This method is a bit more involved but allows you to better match the sag.  If you study pictures, you will notice that different blades sag differently.  Also, the head on most helicopters is tilted forward and there is a difference in the way the blades sag, depending on whether they are in front or back of the rotor disk (more noticeable on some aircraft than others).  This method is more involved but allows more control of the shape.

Either way works well, it just depends on what looks good to you.

I have not built a 1:72 chinook so I don't know how the blades are drooped. In Trumpeter's 1:35 they come pre-drooped, which is incorrect. If you look at a photo of a chinook on the ground the blades are straight, they actually droop at the head at  the horizontal hinge pins. So if you want it to be right you should actually straighten the blades. Disregard the writing on the picture I was trying to show someone how you would fold the blades. If you look on the inboard side of the blade you will see a circle with a bunch of holes drilled in it. That is the horizontal hinge pin where the blade will droop from.

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