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~ ! Clash in Tunisia ! ~ { Final Photos on page 37 }

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  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
Posted by vespa boy on Sunday, January 17, 2010 6:14 PM

Indy:  the truck looks amazing. I really like the wear on the paint. Its set the bar very high for the rest of the dio. I hope you don't take this the wrong way...the tarp looks very good and it s ahuge improvement over any kit piece, but not as good as the rest of the truck. It may be the photos.  You can always do the old trick of checking it out in a mirror. If I am out of line saying this, please let me know, I really don't want to upset anyone. Keep it coming, its great seeing this come together step by step.

 

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Sunday, January 17, 2010 9:28 AM

Wow. The chipping on the truck looks real. I might have to try that on the project I'm working on now. The tarp looks amazing.

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
Posted by I make stuff on Sunday, January 17, 2010 3:28 AM

I'm watching and taking notes, Adam.  I plan to use the tarp method to make some window shades for that wacky tractor I am working up, it came wiht some molded ones that look like a piece of sprue, and that will never do.

your cover/tarp looks amazing, really real, realistic!

Thanks for the detail, I love this thread.

PS:  batten down the hatches, we are supposed to get some makor rain starting tomorrow night.

Great work really great work!

Bill

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Saturday, January 16, 2010 11:16 PM

Did you modify and repose the figures?

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, January 16, 2010 11:45 AM
~Continued
~~To begin with, I masked off the entire truck with Tamiya tape, except  for the cab, whch I covered with one of those small zip-bags our resin parts are shipped in. This let me avoid sticking anything to my very well-worked surfaces, or having to burnish tape over all that photo-etch, and also let me see the body-paint to compare colors during the process.
 
My area of over-spray wasn't so large, but I wasn't taking any chances after the number of hours into the paintwork!
 


~1st an over-all spray of the mid-tone, as even as possible, but thin enough to still detect the' pre-shading'. Followed by some 'filling-in' with the 1st shade , into the recesses of the folds. I started with my Iwata HP-CR for this part of the job, but after this did an airbrush switch, for the fine-line work, to my HP-B and turned the compressor down from about 20PSI to about 14PSI.
 
 


Again I worked with the 1st shade, with the finer gun, and then worked the darker shade into the deepest areas, though it was quite difficult aiming and required great care.


Here the shadows are in, and highlights are applied last to the most prominate features. i wish I could say it ws all easy as that... but it took a fair amount of going back and forth between colors, to get the right effect, without looking too contrasted or stark.
 
 
 
Here's the finished product, with soft-enough colour changes,and appropriate lack of hard-edges . Hey! Something else is finishedBig Smile
 
 
 
 
I'll allow the paint to fully cure, and apply a sealing flat coat before unmasking, becuse I want the tilt protected, but don't want the bodywork matted yet.
 
 

So you'll have to stay tuned to see the whole thing together(me too  Stick out tongue)
 
 

Some of the colors used we're just right to base-coat some of the garmets on my figures, so work on them unceremoniously commenced on those......
 
Thanks for joining me.....tommarrow we'll have a look.......................... 

 

EDIT P.S> Thanks for that Ed. I see you squeeked in the comment in-between posts again! That's OK still valuable. Yeah--I got this post half-down and the FSM server went all fritzy again and I thought it was all gone......I had recovered half of it. Hopefully this looks like the post now when I push the little button !.

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Saturday, January 16, 2010 11:40 AM

You are most welcome Adam!

I agree the tarp on the left is primo and very well sculpted I might add but I probably won't!  Big Smile

Looks great man!  I want to find the inventor of Milliput and give him a bone crushing hug!  Wink

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, January 16, 2010 11:32 AM

Buddho

This is incredible....

Edmund~  Your imput is always appreciated and you obsevations are 2nd to none. Likewise I cherish comments like that for all time my friend!!

BoB~ You a great man to have on my team! For sure... Im glad you are getting the most from the entire Blog, I am commiting this one to history for better or worse~~

Buddho~ Sometimes less is more. What a great thing to add, Thanks and it should even keep getting better.

 

Now thing start to really happen

 

The AIRBRUSH however, did not seem to be in his toolbox.........
 
Painting the Tilt
 
You may remember the 'practice' tarps I made as a quick demo for possible uses of the Milliput tarp technique? I had painted two of them with the chocolate 'pre-shades' just as I did on the truck's cargo-area-covering.

I used them as practice for all the painting steps as well, to work out any color changes or bugs of the process, without risk to my model.The tarp covering stacked equipment(on the left) I used to try to get things to go wrong, testing the limits, as it we're, and the 'thrown-aside' tarp(on the right) I tried to present an example of everything going just right.

The finished tilt-cover, coming up in the next post, is in-between the two, but servicable. It's features we're just a little too complex and folds just a bit too deep for as Ideal a result as the tarp on the right. It is just about what I was after.
 
 
As I had made a mess off the example on the left, I evened it out with an over-all darker spray in the end, to "save it", more or less, should I ever decide to use either of these. For now they go into my "painted spares box" which is fattening rapidly!
~~The process is the same for on the model, and is very simple, but not so easy , as it's all freehand airbrush work, and it's a challenge to get a realistic amount of shadow and definition, while not making it look too obvious what you're doing, and so not getting the look of something obviously painted, something I dispise, and will often shy away from a maximum of contrast for this reason, against popular practice.
~~~I mixed five different paint colous from Tamiya jars, and saved them all in small disposable cups with lids. The middle tone was mixed from,XF-49 Khaki,XF-57 Buff, and XF-67 Nato Green. Two  progressively darker shades we're made with XF-52 Flat earth &  XF-1 Flat  Black....and two lighter tints made by adding more Buff & XF-2 Flat White to the first three colours Everything is thinned with 70% alcohol to a whole milk-like viscosity.

~Continued with the main event.....

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Friday, January 15, 2010 6:26 PM

This is incredible....

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cary, North Carolina
Posted by M1Carbine on Friday, January 15, 2010 11:20 AM

Adam;

WOW! this is un-real man.  Every so often I have to start from page one and sit with mouth agape in awe.

 

Bob

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Thursday, January 14, 2010 11:32 AM

Hey Adam,

First of all you know my affinity for freshly painted tires I can't get enough of them.  It's a crying shame what had to be done with the tires but necessary!  Looks great!  I like the method you used I will have to try that.  This is one beaten up soft skin.  Holy Bejesus but very believable.

You are doing fantastic work both in the building and documenting of this build.  I will be referring to this WIP for years to come I am sure!

I can't wait for figures!!!

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:28 AM
~~~~~After application of Future to seal the chipped paint on truck & wheels, everything was put aside a day or so.... then...
 
~As much as I liked  the look of the tires above, having the look of aged rubber, they looked scrubbed-clean, so at some point they would need to be blitzed with sand.....
 
 
I applied a thick sludge-wash of CMK pigment powders in alcohol(50/50 mix of 03 Sandy Dust & 08 Light Earth) I'm new to this brand powders, they seem every bit the match and a fraction of the price of MIG's, as much as I like those. The CMK  loses marks only for it's opaque bottle that hides the color(easy to fix with sample stuck to it) After applying the sludge and letting it dry, I removed as much as I could with a wet brush, but was unsatisfied, and so used a small brush to 'flow' some mix into the treads, to get that thick grainy earthwork look.
 
 
After letting them dry again, I lightly "padded-dowh" the tires with an Ultra-Fine 3M Sanding Pad, and  with that they were entirely finished. For some that say they don't love pigment powders, I would suggest that removing them carefully is just as importaint as applying them. Techniques are needed for both.
 
 
 
 
 
My finished wheels, encrusted with sand. HEY! somethings finished!
 
 
 

I chipped the fuel cans as randomly as I could imagine, I'll add some detail with the brush just as with the truck, which is done with that faze:
 

Alot of the final chipping work is subtle, even if the overall look isn't..
 
 
Some of the finer brass details required some tedious work with the tip of the knife to make it look consistant with the rest.
 

Here I mocked up the wheels to have a look.  Next step is to paint-in the tilt. (Note: the correct-seemng sand color washed into the tires turned out to be a very close match to the sand-paint at it's lightest point(tops)--like I said--a challenge to get right)
 
 

~OK Gents, thanks again for tuning in, I'd love to hear what you guys think so far, and I'm looking forward to getting this baby on the road!

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:05 AM

~Mike~ Sounds very cool man. A very popular configuration & for good reason.

~Will~ Thanks to you Mister

~Wayne~ Thanx, you betcha Man, the desert takes it out of you, & everything else. You know it Cool

~RB~ A appreciate and value that endorsement a great deal. Fits with my reasearch entirely. At the shop we have an actual sandblasting booth and someimes I've found it interesting to see just how I can take the edges off of details with it(on a practice part only !) I was thinking how of ways to use that kind of assualt AND yet have a maximum of detail also(NOT  with real sandblasting!)     Anyways, thanks for those marvelous compliments!

~Narayan~ I'm happy to hear you appreciate the work to get the subtle changes into what isn't a subtle weathering. My pleasure to bring it here.   Super facinating info there about the Peugeots in Tunisia. What we're you doing there? Tourist? Riding around in  beat car with no doors?

Big Smile

From  Exit Rommel  by  Bruce Allen Watson

 ""The aridity was crushing. Normally, an ordinary man with no water supplement on a hot day loses so much bodily fluid that he would probably be dead by nightfall. Of course it rains, but much of it evaporates before hittting the ground. Once in a while, a torrential rain passes over, turning the sand to goo and making the wadis treacherous places as walls of water suddenly and unexpectedly wash everything before them.  Or suddenly or just as unexpectedly the sand begins to riffle as the wind increases. The sky turns yellow-tan and great billowing sand clouds race across the desert in a violet storm. slashing exposed skin, erasing paint from metal objects, and clogging any piece of machinery not adapted to desert operations."

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
Posted by vespa boy on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 5:06 PM

The chipping detail is very nice to see. and especially the variation in colour as you get from the weathered surface to freshly exposed scuffing. Good stuff.  Thanks for sharing.

I remember seeing some very beaten up Peugeot 203s and 404s in Tunisia, and your weathering is not inconsistent with what taxis look like! I remember one 404 taxi with no doors and no straight panels!

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Willow Oaks Compound / Model Bunker
Posted by razorboy on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 4:20 PM

I agree, that truck could have been off of the first shipload of equipment and still running late in the theatre.  Softskins were everybit as important (if not more so) to the AK as armour was and used until it was used up - then stripped for parts.  The desert environment with it's constant daily temperature changes and the inherent natural sandblasting effect would not have been very kind to most, if not all surfaces - especially painted ones.  Your talent for weathering is obvious and enviable!

Looking Good IndyYes,

rb

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Northern Va
Posted by psstoff995's lbro on Sunday, January 10, 2010 10:04 PM

Great work! That is looking awesome!

I really like that opel, it's coming along great and I can't wait to see this dio done.. Surprise

-Will young modeler Test fit master
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Niagara Falls NY
Posted by Butz on Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:04 PM

Hey Adam,

 You are most welcome and yes, it has helped... As for my build which was put on the back burner, has been reaccuainted with my work bench lol

 I am going to place a FlaK 37 AA gun on the back bed as it was field applied.. The over all colour will be German gray and a hastily applied Panzer Yellow splotchy of camo(wheels will be over all Panzer Yellow). The Flak gun will be over all Panzer Yellow with the green/brown camo

 As for storage I am not to sure.. Maybe some tarps, jerry cans, a spare tire and if I can find some AM ammo cases/rounds for the 37, I'll add those too...

 I have one other item to be added as storage but I am not going to say... Other than that, it's add as I go!! Thanks for asking!!

Flaps up,

Mike

Rangers Lead The Way

 

  If you would listen to everybody about the inaccuracies, most of the kits on your shelf would not have been built Too Close For Guns, Switching To Finger

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, January 10, 2010 5:46 PM
~ The next step for me is getting some 3D effects into these chips in the paint, using a technique I'm told is called "mapping", by way of adding a slightly lighter color to the edge of the chips , and a dab of something different & a bit darker to thier deepest areas.


Here is an extreme close-up, as this isn't too visable to the un-aided eye.
 
 


I used Vallejo acrylics for this fine brush-work, 004 Off White, tinged with very small amounts of  132 Brown Sand & 019 Dark Flesh. A jab of darker color was added into the chocolate of the chips, this was 150 German Camo Black Brown(a near match for my Floquil base coat, and reccomended if you want to do this job using Vallejo) mixed with a  little Model Air 018 Camo Black Green. Again, I still have yet to add in any dark rust.
 

These effects require very fine-line painting, and for that my favorite is the "Liner" brush.
Unlike very small-bristled brushes, these hold enough paint to get things done!
 Here's my collection of them(though the 1 in front is actually a small "Round" . None of these was over $5 USD at the LASS    ( Local  Art  Supply Store)


Veiwing the model normally, it shouldn't be too appearent how the mapping is done. If done right, however the chips should just look a bit more 'right', and the over-all finish should have a bit more 'pop'
 

 (It's entirely possible that I may have scratched my signature into that front fender above when i was chipping it   Embarrassed  )


~The same work went into the wheels, though based on a slightly darker paint.
 
 

After I liked the hubs, I painted the tires thinnly with Floquil 013 Grimy Black, and then an even mix of the "Grimy" and Floquil 009 Primer, and then Primer with 25% "Grimy", This was done as a matter of "relief painting" , not dry-brush, as my brush had too much paint on it to call it that. The Front wheel in both these  shots is finished to that point. The Rear wheel on the left has two more steps done. !st, I thinned-out the last highlight color and smoothed -out  the entire sidewall   ( you can see the difference above) and then mixed that colour with equil parts 0011 Reefer White and dry-brushed that final highlight onto the edge of the tread by way of some gentle flicking       ( which I admit I enjoyedStick out tongue) You can see the final highlights on the right, below
 
 
Once I get some sand into and onto these tires, I think they should serve well. These are the very same wheels you guys have seen countless times, no doubt, in many Tamiya kits, thier Standard  Wheel, WWII, German Vehicle........ but I thought they we're pretty nice mouldings, even with thier age and common-ness, so I though I should make the most of them  . that's all for today......Zip it!
 
.........Please tune in again next time for another  semi-thrilling episode of "Clash"......
 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, January 10, 2010 5:35 PM

~Ed~ Thanks Brother, You're a good man & great friend   Dead

~Mike~  That's all much-appreciated. I happy that you've found value in my (I hope) well-produced posts. This truck is finnaly getting somewhere interesting. I'd really love to see a detailed build-up when you get around to doing your Tamiya  Opel. There is so much you can do witht hese, so many variants, different roles they we're tasked with.... what kind of ideas do you have for yours? Stowage?

~Jet~ Thanks Man ! Please stick around, there's plenty more gunna happen here.

~RB~ Thank you greatly for the excellent remarks ! I'm trying to do something extra-special with everything in this Dio.    As for the chipping approaches, Mig Jeminez was saying on his blog recently that the hairspray is great, but for certain kinds of chips, and he likes doing it along with the more conventional ways(I asume meaning with sponge & brushes)     You're Tamiya truck is a very cool looking model. I guess it represents an early Opel truck originally Grey, later painted Dark Yellow , likely in a field-shop, maybe when the 20mm was installed? Now the yellow paint is wearing away. I like the look of your chipping too,especially around the cab. Only thing I would mention is having the dirt/dust on it more of a contrast with the paint color. That's one challenge I have yet to face with mine...getting the look of the surface dust just right (maybe Steve Zagola's "Dust Glaze" method ?)

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Willow Oaks Compound / Model Bunker
Posted by razorboy on Sunday, January 10, 2010 10:44 AM

Your weathering is awesome!  Well done Indy, well done indeed!!!  I must try your chipping method sometime -  mine has always been "Brushed-On" vs. your "Brushed-Off" .........................

.... I like your method better.

Cheers,

rb

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Sunday, January 10, 2010 10:07 AM

Great job on the truck so far. It looks amazing.

Can't wait to see everything finished and in the dio.

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Niagara Falls NY
Posted by Butz on Saturday, January 9, 2010 11:58 PM

Hey Adam,

 I just came across this thread and I tell ya, I am very impressed my friend..!! I really like how you put this all together from start, the build, mods/updates, pre painting preps to now... I definitely like how the steps to painting the vehicles make the finished build realistic..

 I am in the midst of doing Tamiya's 3 ton 4x2 Opel and I can not wait to see how yours turns out!!

 The way you brought all this together, I can really envision the dio and I can not wait to see the finished product..!!

 I will definitely be following this is one fer sure!!

 Thank you for be able to share this with us

Flaps up,

Mike

Rangers Lead The Way

  If you would listen to everybody about the inaccuracies, most of the kits on your shelf would not have been built Too Close For Guns, Switching To Finger

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Saturday, January 9, 2010 10:21 PM

That's what I thought it would look like!  You do not dissapoint my friend!  I really like the tonal differences of the chips and this as I stated before will really draw the eye with it's complex weathering.

Thanks for documenting this Adam it will come in handy!

Yes 

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, January 9, 2010 10:09 PM
~ Well, a few modelling sessions later, I have chipped-up, sun-faded, sand-colored paint, although I have still to add some highlights at some chip-edges, and some dark rust to some of the deeper dings{Not to mention the whole rest of the weathering process ! )
 
 
Again, I want a truck that's been in the desert running around for many months, say as many as 20, survivor of  numerous sandstorms and terrible roads.
 

After I'm done highlighting the edges of some chips for greater 3D effect, and rusting-out some of the bodywork dents, I'll give it 2 coats of Future to seal it all up and prep decals.
 

The "X-tra hands" unit has never come in so handy, as I can tilt the truck over to work on one side for hours at a time. I don't have to ever pick it up, much-less hold it.
 

The tools I found useful for the chipping, in order of importance, from bottom to top, a medium round, soft bristled brush to flow the alcohol over the paintwork, one panel at a time, to soften the paint up. Then 3 different old brushes I chopped-down to near nothing, making essensially very stiff stencil brushes, which I used in a jabbing, poking, stippling motion to get the small chips.(Don't scrub or brush or off comes ALL the paint!) In the center is a steel probe(or 'pick') which was very handy to ouline panel-lines and scratch-out exactly placed chips and marks.The blade I mostly used to scrape the paint clea of protruding edges. The small flat brush for in-between spots, and the brass-brush and cut-down sanding stick to remove paint from edges of complex shapes like hardware items and bodywork fittings.
 

Nothing subtle about this weathering, but it will end-up far more toned down by the end.(I like how in this shot you can see the steel color at the front corners.       Paradise

~Figuring the sandstorms are less likely to attack from the top-down, but the sun is, I applied the damage with that in mind.Here you can see how I defined the bodywork where it meets the windscreen frame and placed some very deliberate scratches close to it with the pick. I have yet to do anything with the window frame.
 
 

Before I began this by applying the hairspray, I used some of the liquid masking fluid to block sand paint from going into areas like the inside corners, where it's more difficult to achieve good chipping. This led to some oversize chips however and I wouldn't recommend it except where you're certain you want larger areas of damage.
 
 

I tried to use a different approach to the woodwork, as well as the undercarraige. I used the probe to define the woodgrain and try to get the paint to chip along the grain. I will need to paint in some more obvious signs of the wood .
 
 

I tried to portray specific damage to road-facing areas.
 

Here you can see the differing approached used to bed-side & body-paint.
 
~~~Things should begin to move more briskly now, and I can get to the really fun stuff
                           
Thanks to you guys as always for following......................Indy   Zip it!

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Friday, January 8, 2010 2:59 AM
~ Eh Gentlemen ~       I'm hold-up at my bench every minute I can get, but the chipping process is taking a good number of hours to get right.    
      ~~First a moistening of the painted surface with 70% alcohol on a medium round brush and then stippling firmly and  very delibertly with a chopped-off (stencil brush) where you want to place the chips.
 

I have ALOT more to do tommarrow night, and Ill have a proper post after that 
~See ya then   ............

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Wednesday, January 6, 2010 10:45 PM

Wow you will have quite a bit oif tonal variation for your chipping!

I got my Diet Coke and I am waiting for yoru chips!!

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Wednesday, January 6, 2010 10:21 PM

~Thanks Edmund~ and thanx for putting it in writting. All your tips on using hairspray are coming in handy, Buddy. I've never used it for anything but small jobs before, although I'm likely to try it again & again now.The alcohol seems to work the best for me, and I'm likng the look of the chips done the next day, better than those done immediately. There are a myriad of factors including thickness of hairspray, thickness of paintlayer, the modeler's touch when removing, among others that seem to be difficult  to convey or repeat exactly between us all. That MMIR article you shared with me is a fantastic read, but I'm not prepared to spend literaly weeks on the chipping using laquer thinner like Mr Rinaldi in issue #46 !! He did a great job on that build, no doubt, but I need somthing to work alot more rapidly.

 

Everything got 1 nice heavy even coat of hairspray and it was alowed to dry for up to an hour before applying paint. Not much to see, a slight sheen.
 
One step I left out in the previous post was that I brushed on some future over the 'wood' areas to provide a barrier for the chipping. That was allowed to dry overnight.
 
Into the paintbooth !

In order to achieve a very sun-faded, as well as chipped-up paintjob, I'm using colour modulation by way of four different tints of the sand paint color. This color was mixed from Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow + XF-57 + XF-2 Flat White and thinned with alcohol. I poured some of into some small take-out cups with lids and added progressivly more White to each, to get the four different tints.Above you see the 2nd darkest color applied thouroughly to the sides, but only as a light key-coat to the tops, to avoid build-up.
 
 

The lightened version went to the tops of roof, bonnet, & fenders, and then the darkest colour was graduated loosly up from the runningboards, and painted into the inside corners of the bodywork. It also went onto the bed-side hardware.
 
 

Later,  after It was sure it was dry,   so I could really see the difference,   I applied the really  light (fade-out) tint to the top-facing surfaces only. the 'wood' of the bed-sides we're sprayed in with a lighter color in thier centers.
 
 

The entire bottom of the truck was sprayed with an even darker chocolate shade than it started in( a color saved from the Kubelwagon base-paint). This paint was applied to the insides of fenders, the whole exhaust, and even allowed to creep up the edges of the bottoms of the sides, so that chip colours will mingle and show great damage to the paint on every road-facing surface. (you can see the effects of this on the edges of the fenders and under-bed toolboxes) It should pay-off later.
 
 
 

Not much body-paint will exist nearest roadway.
 
 
 

Wheel-hubs got a spray of the darkest color with a little freehand spritz in the centers with a lighter one. Close enough is good-enough for me as these will get alot more work.
 
 
 

These jerry-cans got  a number of possible colors after a similar hairspray prep.
 
~~~Next up...here comes the CHIPS~~so go get your   'S    
          I'll be back with that!.................INDY OUT !

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Wednesday, January 6, 2010 11:47 AM

Hey Adam,

We talk on the phone and discuss and critique each others work and i forget to post to your WIP's or think I did remembering a conversation we had.  I think I speak for a majority of us when I say thanks for taking the time to be so methodical and diligent in passing on your methods and techniques. Yes

It's interesting that you discovered that the Isopropyl alcohol is the most efficient method of chipping.  This is going to look fantastic with paint on it.  Keep firing down range Sir this is going to be a great anchor for your Dio!

 

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Wednesday, January 6, 2010 8:26 AM

Bill! ~ We've been crazy busy too,I totaly understand(right when we're suposed to be getting xtra time off too!) We will catch-up very soon,Man.  ALSO,  Glad you appreciate my work like you do!  Wink

Narayan~ Thank you all for all that, it's an honor to hear it As for my personal love of doing the wood grains, I think it comes from days doing it as a woodcarver, where I'd take a new piece of pine and distress it into having an old split-up heavy wood grain....Great Fun!

 

~~~One more session of pre-paint preparations. The sand-clour top-coat has been beatin around on this truck for several seasons and so needs some heavy weathering featuring meticulous chipping, and so I'll apply modeller-made-famous TRESemme ultra fine mist hairspray prior to the top-coat.(a mix of Tamiya Buff & Dark Yellow)           before doing so, I ran a few tests on various pieces of styrene that I'd painted brown alongside the model, and tried using alcohol and laquer thinner in addition to water to soften the paint for chipping.
 


I found what I liked was using alcohol 70%(greenarrow)and a short-bristled brush with a little stippling with a fine brass-wire-brush too. I found water worked, but was a bit less controllable(red arrow). Of course better results can be got with a more patient hand. 

 


A great deal of patience is what's needed to make the laquer thinner  work   subtly. Here(red arrow) I did some rapid work to see how it lifted the paint. The( green arrow)   is another example of using the brush   &  brass & knife-tip too,with alcohol.

 


I stumbled on a great badly-distressed paint appearance(above)  by soaking the Tamiya paint with laquer thinner. It crinkled-up like a paint-remover attack, but I'm thinking   it may come in handy some day for a burned-out paintjob.

 


One last sample, this one painted without hairspray, to see what the alcohol removal would look like, with a brush(red arrow), and stippled with the brass micro-brush(green)

 
 
I did some selective dry-brushing on the trucks metal-work , with some metalic enamels  , and used some liquid-mask on certain areas I knew I wanted chipped. It's difficult to see here which is which.
 
 
 
I masked-off the tarp, as it's current paint is a perfect pre-shade for painting it later, and hit the wood-work of the bed with a very diluted spray of Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth, so the chips in the wood show a different color than the metal.
 

OK,  NOW it's ready  to paint !!                                 
 
  Wish me luck Mateys                    Wink  

 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Boston MA
Posted by vespa boy on Tuesday, January 5, 2010 2:14 PM

Nice nice work on the Blitz with the details, the tarp and worn bed. I am constantly amazed by military modellers, who make plastic look like wood....too much work for me!

Keep it coming.

http://public.fotki.com/nkhandekar

This ain't no Mudd Club, or C.B.G.B.,
I ain't got time for that now

  • Member since
    January 2012
Posted by I make stuff on Monday, January 4, 2010 12:00 PM

Wow, Indy, I have a busy couple weeks at work, you open a full scale assembly line of fantastic stuff.

That TARP!  The add on grill guard, the soldering, the PE, and now PAINT!!!

Looking mighty fine, sir.  Thanks for taking time to detail that voodoo that you do.   

NICE!

Bill

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