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~ ! Clash in Tunisia ! ~ { Final Photos on page 37 }

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Monday, January 4, 2010 8:35 AM

~Buddho~ Thanks & thanks for stickin around !

~Dave~ Thannks agin out to you

        Here goes........................

 

......the last stop before paint. This passenger door didn't want to fit at all Sad 


No doubt a product of my struggles earlier getting the cab lined-up. I suspect not every kit will be so much trouble, but I had to do some dirty-work to get that door in place, once I had it I locked it in with some thin C/A, it's going no place!Zip it!
 


Drivers side was no trouble at all, both are taped up from inside & I'l add the wind-wings in much later and the larger window open. For the  windscreen I used to kit-supplied Tamiya tape mask, after cutting it out.{That post between windows is not supplied by Tamiya, another gripe in reviews of the kit, though the 1 piece window       they  supply   could   be painted to show it}
 


Here's a last look at the multi-media going on Broken Heart on this build. I fixed the X-tra hands to the axels to keep me from brushing off the P.E. detail  who knows how many times !
 


For   a   primer I used Floquil Roof Brown in a spray can, in a few light coats. Top, bottom, everything. The color is a bit more brown than it appears here, but these are the photos I got mid-stop.   Seems to be a pretty usefull color to have in a can....
 
 
 


I have the same colour in a bottle, and  used it next, in the airbrush, with a bit of Floquil Engine Black, to do a complete pre-shading of everything. Then the same mix, with even more black, and sprayed it into every crack & gap and also did quite alot of freehand "mottling" on the bodywork surfaces, though avoiding   it   somewhat on upward facing body-paint. This colour will basically be what  is  seen where the top-coat is chippped later.       I may add some touches of metalic paint to high-wear areas before proceeding
 
 


The color should  provide   as good a base as any for tilt cover, which I''ll   paint in much different, but for now I've just based it the same.
 
 

 


All the hardware on the wooden bed needed the same treatment. I'll likely brushpaint the wood as the brushmarks can be a bonus there.
 
 
The wheels were based with Tamiya Matt  Black  TS-6, The the hubs got the same treatment as the rest  using   a circle template & light spray.
 
This should keep getting better & better Gents---fingers crossed! 

 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: United States
Posted by ww2modeler on Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:59 PM

I agree, that tarp looks fantastic.

David

On the bench:

1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing-0%

1/144 Minicraft P-38J Lightning-50%

Numerous 1/35 scale figures in various stages if completion.

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Saturday, January 2, 2010 3:51 PM

Good gravy....gorgeous tarp....and thanks for the tips on working with putty...I started using some for figures and didnt realize how much work is needed to smooth the surface texture!

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, January 2, 2010 3:35 PM

~David~ I'm happy you find value in it. I like to think it's a resource for future builders to build on. No doubt some will take usefull bits and some will get ideas on hw to do even better....

~Buddho~ Thanks man~good to see you here~Please stay tuned.........

~UPDATE~

~~To start off Happy New Year !   Here in the Land of Milk & Honey we get one whole x-tra day off to do as we please(a small Wahoo!)  The new year has me smack in the middle of this somewhat sizable project, and things are in general pretty good otherwize. I hope  that's true for you as well...........I wish all my friends here the best in 2010 !      ...to the build.....
 
~If anyone is wondering why I haven't gotten to completing the cab, it's just that I wanted to have this next task out of the way 1st, and not have the window-masks in place too long, and I'm going to have the air-gun going later while I finish carving out this tilt, and no doubt I'd blow those masks out of place. So before I get to all that dusty work;
 
~The Canvas Tilt~

Ok, clockwise starting(at 11:00 O'clock) is the Tamiya part representing the supports for the tilt. That's all you get OOB, a solid moulded frame stack.   I replaced this with some supports cut & bent from some.037 " music wire.(shown center) Much less forgiving to bend than brass, but way more sturdy, and that counted later. Use a seperator-disk(1;00 O'clock) to cut this material, as it will destroy your wire-cutters. At (5:00O'clock are some round-bend pliers I lifted from the wife's jewelry making toolbox, and are just the ticket for matching the radius of the kit part. At 9:00 on the clock are some toothed square-nose pliers needed to hold the steel wire for cutting as it really heats up.
 
While I toyed with the idea of just having an open bed back there, with the desert sun beating down on  what little is left of the troops' vital stores, I decided after long consideration to display a really torn-up old cargo-area covering.
 


While not the true method of attachment, this seemed to me to be the best in the case of this model. I drilled out a closely-sized hole and added a drop on thin C/A to lock the supports in place. The 4th one I decided not to use as if it's gone missing. A few members asked for a little info on this tarp-making process. Not much to it really....
 


I mixed a large ball of A+B epoxy putty as it's cheaper and sets harder than my usual choice of Milliput. Later I missed it's nice fine texture, that I'll need to make-up with sanding & surfacer. (Above) I'm using the silicone tube as a rolling-pin, and I'm using generous amounts of talc(baby powder) to roll out the mixed putty(that is now gotten soft, sticky and a little warm)
 


Once it's flat and thin as I can get it, I cut it with a blade dipped in water for a smooth cut.
 


At this point these pieces are easy to roll-up or use to wrap boxes and such, or just to show a tarp or garmet hanging or just thrown-aside. These 3 are just some quick examples and really need to have some details either sculpted in before setting, with some wetted tools, or carved-in later with burrs, grinders, files, and the like, before paint.


For this cargo-cover, I rolled out a huge piece and layed it over the tilt supports, folding it over to pile-up in the back. Later I trimmed it off with the wet knife, and worked it into shape.  A number of A.M. companies make some replacement tilts for your Opel truck, Mig Production makes a few nice ones, but I wanted this one to be a little bit different and in the end a good deal more thrashed than I'd seen. (May have saved a few $$'s too Zip it!


You may choose to let the epoxy-putty set-up a while before using it to model fabric, as it gets less sticky, droopy and soft, and will hold shape pushed into it. The last thing before your're ready to let it harden-up is to push into it any objects that might be making a dent in it - in this case the rear of that spare tire I'm going to have fixed to the cab-roof.


Here is not the end-product, but the hardening putty tilt , I'll later go back and work it some more after it's firmed-up, as I'm a better carver than sculpter.

I'll add in a few tears, and some sign of it's original attachments

~The next step was to carve in some subtle details, nothing to sharp, and smooth out the ratty look of that cheaper epoxy putty. For this I brushed on my Favorite, Tamiya Liquid Primer, with a wide brush, using laquer thinner to smooth it out as I went.


I started at the rear of the tilt, and I think you can really see a huge improvement. The other putty is correcting a few spots I needed to be just so, like around where I've drilled-out a few grommet-holes.
 


I selectively thinned the liquid putty over areas I liked, and layed it in thicker into spots I wanted to fill, a method I've been working at perfecting for surfacing.


Here's a zoom on the front-driver's-side, where I've quite purposefully filed-in  some fold-detail, followed by sanding & another go with the liquid putty. An entirely smooth surface isn't needed or wanted to model the fabric of this covering, but, hopefully this works!


I added in a few tears here & there
 

Now I can work on the glazing & getting the cab buttoned-up...and......and.....
 
......... PAINT!
 
 
 
 
So here it is after painting & weathering...........
 
Ok,OK....just kidding    Stick out tongue    but isn't  some beautiful destruction? I feel bad not crediting the modeller, but I found this randomly in a search engine. I won't be weathering this heavily, but man...I love a good wreck , don't you?
~~~~~~~Back soon~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Indy Out !

 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Saturday, January 2, 2010 3:10 PM

This is an incredible build...and I am enjoying the progress of it coming together.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: United States
Posted by ww2modeler on Friday, January 1, 2010 7:33 PM

Wow, this whole project is amazing so far and its great that you post your WIP shots. I'll definately stay tuned for further updates.

David

On the bench:

1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing-0%

1/144 Minicraft P-38J Lightning-50%

Numerous 1/35 scale figures in various stages if completion.

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Friday, January 1, 2010 6:48 PM

Manstein's revenge

Wow, Indy---great work! That reinforced front grille brace on the Blitz is really cool...what's the story behind it?

Hey Manny ! Thanx  for that and good to see ya!  What is missing here is an update from YOU . Everything is so Top-Secret with you isn't it /? Zip it!  As for the custom push-bar something I observed here

 

Not entirely common, but a VERY wise field-mod. Just gave a little x-tra protection to the very precious radiator full of water, but in a tight spot could be used to nudge a a light vehicle as in light recovery jobs.

~Bob~  respectfully) Are you nuts? Hmm I'm no "Master". But I do thank you for that. Wow. I know you mean well, and I am happy you said it, but ,,,,no, not yet I am not. If you want to see a Master Dio builder....see

http://www.bobletterman.com/    go look at Bob Letterman's site....Yawzzza  ~ !

~R.B.~ Thanks very much. That's high praise & greatly appreciated! I've got this build going here & at Military Modelling only. Mil Mod is where I got started posting online  & FSM gave me my start in print so it's these 2 for me for now at least.

~Build update to follow shortly, thanks again...........

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Willow Oaks Compound / Model Bunker
Posted by razorboy on Friday, January 1, 2010 8:56 AM

Looking good Indy!  Following this build on multiple sites!!  Can't wait to see it finished.

Well done, well done indeed -

razorboy

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cary, North Carolina
Posted by M1Carbine on Thursday, December 31, 2009 8:31 PM

Adam, ou are a true MASTER!

 

Bob

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 31, 2009 12:15 PM

Wow, Indy---great work! That reinforced front grille brace on the Blitz is really cool...what's the story behind it?

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Thursday, December 31, 2009 12:19 AM

bbrowniii

Indy

There can be no doubt (at least in my mind) you are the reigning supreme dio builder on this site.  Amazing attention to detail... Amazing detail itself.... and, as I said, superior WIP thread....

Man o man o man o man..... I can't wait for the next one...

WoW~~Bboyd~~ What do I say to that?....I'v gotten more compliments than I can count over the years for my various artistic pursuits, and that is likely the finest one. Thank you.          I should say no,no, not me, but I will just hold it dear and try to live up to it.

~Jetmodeler~ Thank you as well for being the 2nd to that. 

                         Update is in the works......................................

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 1:19 PM

I agree.

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 12:30 PM

Indy

There can be no doubt (at least in my mind) you are the reigning supreme dio builder on this site.  Amazing attention to detail... Amazing detail itself.... and, as I said, superior WIP thread....

Man o man o man o man..... I can't wait for the next one...

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 7:42 AM

~Joelster~ Thanks Bud, yes ordinary if you happen to have that particular specialized item! Stick around, gets better!

~Rob~ Thanks for that-I always value great words like that from an artist like you(never stop Big Smile )

~Update for 12/29/09~

~Guys, I'm really looking forword to the paint and weathering myself! ~ For that is where I really believe my  real talents are. Meanwhile, despite all the lovely holiday Who-Ha and all, that's had me away from home, not to mention the bench, I've gotten a ways along with all the many details that must go into place ahead of the painting.  As it happened, this is my 1st build employing two different Photo-Etch sets, and it's tons!

 
Of course much was gained as each kit contains many parts the other doesn't . The Eduard kit for example,  had exterior doorhandles, not interior ones, the Lion Roar kit, the reverse! It seems each company found different details importaint to provide, and some while provided, we're very simple, like Eduards tool clamps. I fitted the 4-piece clasps from L.R. and they we're about as demanding a fiddely thing as I've seen. I wanted these empty of tools as these will be very recently used and littered about in the Dio.


Here's the small sheet in the L.R. set. 3 parts + the bracket+lots of folds. You super-detailed-panzer builders know all about these, no doubt.
 


You may get a better view of them in the over-all shots at the end of the post. Parts for the hood-clasps(totaly left out by Tamiya) have a similar # of tiny parts & bends. The jack's brackets are very standard stuff.
 
 
This under-bed-jerrycan-basket is just the sort of thing I find the solder essential for, as it's designed to be joined end to end and any glob of glue would be out of place and it needs strength enough to hold that fuelcan during the rest of the build.
 

This is one of the jobs I break out the X-tra hands for, as there's a few things to keep lined-up, and the clips also act as heat-sinks to safeguard the  welds as you go.
 

Tiny pieces of solder are picked-up by the irons tip and touched to the joint after brushing it with flux. Not too tuff after you got the heat needed gauged. My results are getting better, but I still have a ways to go with it.
 

I'm trying to work-in some new photo-equipment I recieved for X-mas. See if you notice any improvement as we go along into the future, still getting familiar with it all.
 

The doors(still not fitted) took a fair amount of sanding to remove injection-marks(interior) and an odd molding line(exterior), sorry, I sorted that all -out with no photos to show. Quite a number of P.E. additions to the doors. Here's the outsides for now.
 
 
~Here's a lovely bend to try. More shaping, than folding, the kit instructions show you how to burnish the shape in with a "ball-pen", still, it took a little coaxing!
 

Afterwards, parts are added-on for hinges and hasps. Now that's yummy detail !
 

Keeping in mind the age of the truck I'm modelling, I don't want everything factory-fresh. so I just smashed this one in and drilled-out the hinge where the bolts may have held it previously. Something I get to rust-up later!
 

That nifty brake-line isn't in the Lion Roar set, though I supose modelling it from very fine wire is quite possible. You no doubt have noticed I've "dry-fitted" the wheels so we can take a look at this thing as it is so far, easy to do with Tamiya's soft bushings.
 

Finnally coming along  Big Smile   BUT    Somehow plenty left to do !!
 

Likely I'll leave off the mirrors & width markers 'til the very last thing, as knowing me, I'll knock them loose beforehand. Could be the driver of this old truck already knocked some  of that gear off himself already !  WinkIndifferent
 

One more little teaser before I go.Doesn't that platform for the Notek light seem to bend 3 different ways? HHmmmmm. Neato.
 
~Pretty soon I'll have to see to the glazing, mount-up the doors, get that cab squared away, build my tilt, a little plan for some of the stowage, and BAM I'm painting----I'll get to try out the  brand new Iwata The Lovely Mrs. sprang for !~~~~~~
     Until next Gentlemen.....................................................................

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: mass,USA
Posted by scratchmod on Monday, December 28, 2009 9:01 AM

Adam looking great so far as always. I love the detail you put into each model you build, especially all the PE, wow, hats off to you my friend. Keep those updates coming.

 

Rob

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Tonawanda, NY
Posted by joelster on Sunday, December 27, 2009 8:41 AM

Still loving those seats! Wink I just like how you take ordinary household stuff and apply it to the models, such as you did with the tape for the seats. The rest of the model looks incredible as well!

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, December 27, 2009 3:55 AM

~Very much appreciated Bob. Very much.          Update coming Sunday

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Cary, North Carolina
Posted by M1Carbine on Thursday, December 24, 2009 4:53 PM

Stunning Indy....just stunning.  beautiful work on the wood.

 

Bob

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 11:34 PM

~Will~ Thanks Buddy Big Smile

~Scott~ Right, who does? (the unemployed---not worth it! Tongue Tied) I just noticed you've been posting here a very long time. You're dance-card is near full! So what's on the bench?

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 10:03 AM

I love Reno, been here since 1985 when I left Germany... and I still don't get as much modeling time as I would like.  LOL

I'm going to give your wood weathering technique a try on a future project I have in the works.  Great stuff!  Cool

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Northern Va
Posted by psstoff995's lbro on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 9:20 AM

Great work!

That blitz is coming along great. 

-Will young modeler Test fit master
  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Tuesday, December 22, 2009 7:48 AM

~Boyyd~ Hey Man, that's greatly appreciated. I endeavor to communicate well. Help yourself to it too.

~Scott~ Thanx for that ~ One of many successes so far & a ways to go. Reno huh? I usd to live around those parts,never had a moment for models then though....

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Monday, December 21, 2009 5:07 PM

Wow! Great job beating up the wood!  It looks perfect!  Surprise

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Monday, December 21, 2009 8:53 AM

INDY

Man, your work is amazing, AND your WIPs are outstanding.  You ability to show a technique and so clearly explain how you have done it is superb.  You are setting the bar for WIPs.

I've been printing off sections of this thing and adding it to my personal 'techniques' binder.  Thank you!

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, December 20, 2009 1:47 PM
~Continued~
 
OK ,  now this build can get going..................
 
 
With that bed made-up, all the major assemblies can come together. The cab to the chassis to start, and the spare is added as its difficult to do later.
 

Then a dry-fit of the cabs roof and the truckbed---suddenly it looks like a truck !!
 

You'll notice I've removed the  awful oversized hinge from the cab-roof that hold the triangular convoy light. I haven't heard anyone else complaining about this feature, and most Opel trucks had them (but not all).   I chose to just get rid of it. The styrene was a little unstable under the hinge, so a little filler was needed .
 

There's the basic truck. A "truckload" of details to add-on still.....
 

Here's the test of any  German truck. Some Feldgendarm stands outside demanding       "Your papers! Your papers pleaze !"  The truck has to stand up to that at least   Surprise
 
That's what I got so far, let me know what you think & thanks for reading along

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Sunday, December 20, 2009 1:42 PM
~Jetmodeler~ Thanks for that-  "Good so far" is the name of the game. I'm about halfway through
~Joelster~ Welcome and thanks. Out of everything in the thread you liked the seats the best? OK, We will see when it's done what stands out to you , hang in there.
~OK then... The terrible case of the pin-marked wood bed sides......(I go into detail here) {Note: I'm building an early truck that's managed to last a number of years in this ultra-harsh environ,  If you want a factory-fresh look here, you'll need to try something else}


1st thing I filled all the sink-marks with putty. Nothing terribly clever about that. Except maybe that I used 3M's(Green)Spot Putty, which is FAR finer in grain than hobby putties.
 
 
Next thing I scribed in the "panel lines" with a scribe tool, followed by the (back edge of) my knife in places I wanted to breakthrough, to give gaps in the wood. Then I sanded the entire area of the panel with a cut-down 220 grit sanding stick, then a 320, removing most of the kit wood-grain, trying to leave the 'steel' edges intact as I went.
 


This panel shows (3) STAGES  of my heavy texturizing process. Left to right : panel lines scribed, rough work began(basic shape of wood parts started), & finished, except for removing the "fuzz" of which there's a lot of to do with all this scraping. Most of this work is done with side to side scrapes with my #11 blade(see also a step by step I did on wood texturing HERE   Yes I also used this small rasp(gift from a modeller friend of mine)dragged on it's side, as well as this square of VERY heavy sandpaper(40 grit?) given to me by a carpenter friend and sometimes incorrectly refered to as "German toiletpaper"
  


I retextured all surfaces of the 'wood', and went especially heavy with the sandpaper on the bed-floor, to get a different look, that of a very crushed, compacted wood from all the heavy cargo. The wood sides got alot more knife-work, to "open the grain" as if it's been beaten by sandstorms and freak rainstorms for a few years. Research reveals wood grain exposed to desert elements can become quite unrecognizable from factory standards. This also gives a nice strong contast when painted.
 
 
Again, if you wanted to model a "new" truck this effect would represent an out-of-scale woodgrain, but as I want this wood to look ravaged by elements, this should be good.
 
 
'
 
Here's that 'compressed' look of the bed-floor. Compare with the original texture below
 

This is of course the bed-bottom, and if you're one of those guys that finishes the bottom of your models, (not I ) you have another 30 pin-marks to go!
 

A finishing job like ths absolutely requires a light primer coat to evaluate your work. I used the fine Floquil Light Grey Figure Primer spraycan.
 
 
Well, I don't know how clever all that turned out to be but I thnk it worked. About 3 hours time (I'm sure that I've spent 3 hours doing stupider stuff before)  Surprise   With this done, I can steam-ahead with the whole rest of the build......Now it gets good !!
 

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Tonawanda, NY
Posted by joelster on Saturday, December 19, 2009 8:48 AM

Wow!

Those seats look incredible. GREAT job so far!

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Saturday, December 19, 2009 8:14 AM

Every thing you have built so far for your dio came out good so far. Now I can't wait to see the truck finished.

Nice Job.

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Saturday, December 19, 2009 12:55 AM

 ~~~~Thems some mighty fine words Wayne, thanx~~~~

~ Hello again Gents...got some work done to the front end that I thought might set this Opel apart a little bit . I scratchbuilt the custom pushbar from soldered  brass rod.
 



Not quite the same,  not as wide, but inspired from this one fitted to this desert "Blitz" truck, I wanted mine to perfectly frame that blessed name badge(you can even see the "radiator" sheet in this shot)    Sorry about the dust, construction underway!
 
The Lion roar kit happily included some other nice parts not found in the Eduad set, like these black-out light covers. The kit parts are not at all awful, but I really like the look of the P.E. parts here, an importaint area. I don't like them to look empty behind the slit, so I fit a small piece of blister-pack material inside, mostly to later suport a bit of dirt
 

 

 


I dented up the brass a little for some minor wear
 


I needed a piece of styrene to represent a thick bit of iron strap-baseplate, as if a cut-off from a discarded panzer perhaps, I'm concidering adding some torch & weld detail, but the front of this truck is going to be so covered in dust there's not much point.   I try to  remember it's the army of figures running past these vehicles that's really going to matter. That said, I try to find a happy balance of rich detail and reasonable build-time.
 
 
I had to check that this looked likely enough from the drivers seat too.
 


No where near experienced building with solder, I think I managed to get what  I was after at the very least. There's still a few tuff jobs ahead with this build too, so onward..
 

~One of the infamous flaws of the Tamiya 3ton 4x2 German Cargo Truck. All those nasty sink- marks on the "wood" of the bed-sides. Next chapter we'll see if  I can come up with a clever way to solve this problem(short of replacing all of it and spending all that  time !
 
 
It's been my absolute pleasure to  be able to bring you this update, I trust it wasn't too painful! ]Zip it!
 ~ Indy  Music

  

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Friday, December 18, 2009 1:08 AM
One more job I've got accomplished is the painting of the seats, which needs to be done before closing up the cab. To add some texture, and some scuffs and tears to the old upolstery, I burnished down some Green "Frog" painters tape after digging out the fabrics moulded in details a bit with a diomond file. I think this tape gave a good texture.
 


When I had it just right, I gave it a few thin coats with TS-62 Nato Brown, a  russet colour
 


Below you can see the sort of texture I got with that tape as a surfacer
 


I mixed a few filters with different amounts of Vallejo Camo Black-Brown, Black, and Mig Dark Mud pigment powder, to try to get a dirty aged look, instead of a regular easy-to-read dark wash, so the upolstery kind of just blends in later.
 

~In the next chapter, all thse bits should come together to form the trucks cab.
~CONTINUED


I'll do some more weatherizing later most likely, but until things are complete I wanted to leave it a little bright inside. The dusty colour will need a lille adjusting, and dark washes we're kept very minimal, and in selective areas only.
 


Archer transfers were a bit large for the kits' bezels, something I didn't know at the start, but I wanted thier detail, and the Eduard bezels we're of a type I hadn't seen in photos, so I chose to crush the transfers in, and seal/glaze with Future. Quite decent at normal veiwing distance, not too bad in the zoom, I'd say it's a go~
 


Most of that great floor detail is lost in the "dust", but I'm pleased with my upolstery texture
 

 

 


This Ruskie from TanK came down off the shelf to see this......
 

 

 

~Still a ways to go before it's on the road......... I'll be back again soon!~

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

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