- Member since
April 2008
- From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
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Posted by *INDY
on Sunday, November 15, 2009 3:15 AM
| ~As much as I'd love to start on the Opel, it's going to be slightly involved, & there's just too many paint jobs stacking up, so this weekend I brought some progress there..... My pictures of the clean-up of the primer didn't look acceptable, but I did spend a few hours with a blade-tip and 600 paper to take off some rough edges, even so some fuzz remains.  After a while I decided it would have to do, and sprayed another Floquil coat, this one was Grimy Black(Floquil #110013) which I recently found out for my self is the exact same colour as Weathered Black(Floquil #F110017) Why one colour with two names & two numbers? Well. they got me to buy it thinking I added to my range.  It is a usefull color, and has a VERY fine opaque pigment,sprayed or brushed......so, no real harm....BUT  ! 
This blackish-grey colour will be a base coat for a similar but slightly different process to this one I've done with the Kubel. ~To re-cap....I primered with Floquil Grey Primer  Then after plenty of drying time, I airbrushed a chocolate brown mixed from Tamiya Much darker toward the bottom and in wheelwells...and let cure....  Then 2 coats of Future, and lots more drying time...  Today I masked off areas of this finish I wanted to be revealed by chips & cracks in the sun-faded, badly-beaten ,chipped , and pitted dark yellow painjob.  Most of the Liquid Masking Fluid was applied with a small brush, leaving mostly a clear but glossy trace of it's presence,where I'd later get the chip.  It's tricky stuff, but once you get a feel for working it, you can even coax it into flowing into recesses,like under the door here.There will later be a wash in there, but still this works.
Some of the mask can be applied with a balled-up bit of 3M sanding pad, though it's tuff to control what you get, and a bit of Scotchbright (useful for applying chipping with paint) was even less good for me, for this task, with the mask fluid. 
Don't have to wait long at all before painting, In fact I recommend getting your paint on & off the masked areas in short order, to avoid the full-stregnth cure holding the masked portion down. I spray three different colours, one right after the other, with a mind toward some modulation, to get the pale sun-bleached look to top surfaces. The 1st colour was a mix of Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow & XF-57 Buff, mixed to a value right between the two(which took some greater % of Buff)  The next coat was the same lightened with XF-2 Flat White & a few drops of XF-3 Flat Yellow. the 3rd coat lighter still. I took a dinner break & walked my doggie, and after about two hours or so, began to remove bits & dots & strings of mask with the sharpest , fine tweezers in my collection, managing to only puncture my finger once  This work took over two hours, here's some 'in-progress' shots |
You can see why I like this method( over the hairspray method, which can look very good too) as you can see how you can actually get the paint to chip & peel off, like it tends to do when badly beaten and moisture gets under the paint. 
I've just finished with this, and have yet to add any traces of the bare steel, and rust 
I have scratched through to the grey primer in some places, and this adds some variation, but some more work is needed to get this just right...  Hope that all made sense~ Questions / Comments ~Are Very welcome~~~
"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"
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