How I Build Dioramas(step-by-step)

JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 7:12 PM

Cockpit combing on the upper longeron cowling.

Hi guys!In order to make a very convining looking cockpit hole in the cowling I used some leather edging or beading from an old light brown leather womens purse.The leather is soft and quite worn at the edge.It already has the general shape required so it went on easily.I glued it down with super glue and used brown and black pastels for shading on where the raw leather was exposed.This leather is very pliable and would be great for seats or leather trim on airplanes or cars.
In the pic that I will put up next there is a figure of the Jenny's fuselage section that I am building now and the arrangement that I will use to set the fuselage on the hangar floor.My fabric fuselage sides look a little too perfect right now so I will have to plan a few tears and patches.In reality the fuselage would probably have been skinned at this point for easy access but here again I took a little licence and left most of it on.There are two reasons for this, number 1 is that I want to give the viewer an idea of what the airplane would look like with its skin and the 2nd reason is that I am too damn lazy to put in all the wires and fittings again.(mostly the 2nd reason,I think)
Cheers! John

__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)
Guide my hand in your work today.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 2:45 PM

Thanks Drew for your imput.I am still sitting on the fence with this one.I still have a while to make the final decision.
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 2:08 PM

JohnReid wrote:
Compromise solution ?

You know I have been thinking,what about if I treated everything within the hangar walls as central to the storyline line of "memories of flight school" as the actual diorama and only add other things cars,advert trailer etc around the perimeter of the hangar to act as sort of a fancy picture frame.

That sounds like a good idea, John. It would serve to focus the viewer on the central story, as well as your craftwork.

Regards,

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 9:16 AM

Compromise solution ?

You know I have been thinking,what about if I treated everything within the hangar walls as central to the storyline line of "memories of flight school" as the actual diorama and only add other things cars,advert trailer etc around the perimeter of the hangar to act as sort of a fancy picture frame.I will eliminate the 2nd hangar and a lot of the other stuff that is too far removed.The bastketcase Jenny is central to the story as it and the Canuck are what drew these military types into the scene in the first place.What do you guys think?
Cheers! John.

__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 8:30 AM

Firewall and tailpost.

In the top pic the firewall area is just aft of station#3 where you see the engine bearer cross beam.I have cut off the fuselage at this point as though someone had just taken a saw and sawed thru the longerons releasing the engine from the fuselage.
A lot of what you see aft of the firewall,the floorboards and seat railing will not be installed as the fabric extends to stat.4. covering this area.
In the bottom pic you can see the tailpost at the extreme end of the tail with all the longerons fairing into it.The rats nest of wires is a time consuming detail that I dont have to worry about this time around as they also are covered by fabric.
You will notice that the turnbuckle assemblies look a little overscale and they are.This was a judgement call on my part as I wanted the work to be visible to the viewer from some distance away as this is a very interesting feature of these old airplanes that kids (my primary audience) are not really aware of today.they never get to see much wood- n -wire these days.Call it a little artistic licence.If I was building a free standing piece that would be viewed close up I would have built exactly to scale.The brass turnbuckles are made from brass wire with brass painted plastic telephone wire tubing slipped over top.The silver wire wrappings are the same stuff cut shorter and painted silver.

__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 7:46 AM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 6:18 PM

I have been working at opposite ends the last couple of days,the tail post and the firewall.
The tailpost is the last vertical member on the fuselage where the leading edge of the rudder is located.it is not a difficult installation but all 4 longerons must be faired into its sides so a little fitting is required.
The sheet metal firewall between the fuel tank and engine compartment was fun to make because I have easy access to the area unlike when I did the Canuck and I had to work around all the engine components,wires etc..The firewall completely closes off this area from view so there is no need to build what will never be seen .A lot of these unused parts will be on shelves in various degrees of disrepair.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 7:26 AM

Hi guys!
this is a pic of the setup that I use whenever I build up flat assemblies such as the fuselage sides and the wings.
First I get a piece of flat,straight particle board, then I glue 3/4 inch piece of rigid foam insulation to it using a thin coat of spray adhesive.Then I tape the plan or drawing to the foam-board and cover it with wax paper.Then I build the assembly directly on the waxpaper using pins to hold the pieces in place for glueing.
Items such as wing assemblies that have some curvature due to their areodynamic shape may require shims to stabilize them.
I generally use super thin, super glue here as it leaves little residue and soaks into the wood fibers giving it extra strength .
When the assembly has set I remove the pins and release the wood from the board by slipping a # 11 xacto blade between the assembly and the wax paper.If some of the waxpaper sticks it can easily be removed by just peeling it off.Carefully cut off any excess glue using your exacto.
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 27, 2006 6:55 PM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 27, 2006 8:50 AM

Warning! to those who are thinking of building this kit doublecheck the run of the upper longerons as I think I may have discovered a slight error that doesent matter so much in a diorama setting but may be noticable otherwise.When looking from nose to tail there seems to be a bend caused by one of the vertical jig formers.This could of been an error on my part when squaring up the jig but in case it is not I thought that I had better mention this now.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 27, 2006 8:25 AM

This is a pic of the Canuck under construction.The "A" build looks very similiar to this except that a lot of the wire fittings are missing on the "A".I have covered the fuselage sides and weathered them.The cowling rests on the top longerons between stat#3(where the engine bearer beam is) to just aft of stat#6.The construction stations are counted from nose to tail beginning at the spider or web and extenting to the tail post.
The kit supplies the jig but not the building board.This is the best arrangment for a jig that I have seen so far and could be adaptable to any scratchbuilt project.
The fuselage is well protected and secure.The only complaint I have is that the jig frames should be made of plywood and not crossgrained wood that makes the vertical sides too easy to snap off.
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 27, 2006 8:12 AM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, March 26, 2006 7:06 PM

Jenny JN4A Cowling and seats.

I decided that I would install the upper metal cowling that runs on top of the upper fuselage longerons.I left it off of the Canuck for greater visibility into the cockpit area.It comes as a flat piece of metal that must be given shape to by rolling it on a one inch tube of some sort.It is quite easy to obtain this shape at this stage of the build.I cannot see why this cowling could not be fit temporarly at this time.While the booklet calls for a later permanent fitting of this cowl ,I think that at least giving it it's initial shaping now would be a good idea while things are relatively easy to get at and it is held firmly in the jig.I painted mine a military olive green color over a black gesso base.Because I am not installing any of the cockpit seats or controls, I will be glueing mine in permanently tomorrow.With a little imagination the viewer can see what the Canuck would look like if it had this cowl.Next will come the leather cockpit combing.The kit supplies a piece of rubber tubing for this but I managed to find an old piece of clothing with a nice pliable leather material that is easily workable into a combing.The windscreens will be installed later if I install them at all.
I made up both cockpit seats and painted them the same green color.Instead of installing them in the cockpit, someone from the carpenters shop has robbed them for use as chairs.I have often seen antique cockpit chairs used in this manner in old hangars.
When the "A" is a little further along I will take some more pics of all this.
Cheers! John.
Note: I am using black gesso as an undercoat because if the paint chips or scratches the white gesso can flake off and get on everything.Black is not so noticable.

______

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Saturday, March 25, 2006 6:34 PM

Hi Guys!
The JN4A fuselage sides are in the jig and the cross members are being installed.It is still quite fragile at this point but is very secure and well protect in the jig.
This part of the build is very enjoyable as I already have been through this once before.The first time around I had to stick strictly to the build sequence but this time I can pick and choose what to put in.This Jenny is being robbed for parts so just about anything goes.Also stratigic use of tarps and rags will cover what I dont want shown.
The aging of the fabric was surpisingly easy to do, fingerflicking watery raw umber and using pastels for shading.It takes some time but it is fun to do.
A lot of the parts will be put in a scrap container and those worth salvaging will be put on shelves.The OX5 is destined for the future engine shop.I also have a nice 1/16th Mercedes engine that a friend sent me that would really look good heavily weathered and hanging about, either inside or just outside the shop.
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Friday, March 24, 2006 6:27 PM

Hi Larry!
Another very interesting thing going on in this era was "Flying the Mail". If you find the barnstormers aircraft types too limiting, the number of aircraft equipped to fly the mail were comparitively quite numerous.If you can get your hands on a copy of Time-Life book series"The Epic of Flight"and the volume entitled "Flying the Mail" it has a lot of good pics and info.
A lot of the same group of ex WW1 military types were also invovled here.It was called the "suicide club" for good reason, as in 1920 alone it claimed the life of one in six of the airmail pilots.But it did have its compensations.According to Hamilton Lee a famous pilot of the era," I loved what I did,loved flying .We could fly at any altitude,fly under bridges,drop a newspaper to our friends if we wanted to.Today they sit up there at 35,000 feet.What fun can they have?Oh ,those were great days.They were dangerous days too,but you didnt mind that,that was nice in a way too.If it wasn't for that memory I'd go nuts.I live on it.I still think about it when I go to sleep at night."
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Friday, March 24, 2006 5:03 PM

Machine gun.

I forgot to mention that behind the pilots head, near the turtle deck there seems to be a machine gun mounted, or it could even be on the side of the fuselage,it is difficult to see in this image.The JN4A was used for pilot training,aerial gunnery,towing targets and combat tactics.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Friday, March 24, 2006 4:37 PM

This is an image of a JN4A production model in Canadian colors and markings in 1917.Note the double ailerons and aileron braces under the lower wing.Also note the interconnecting aileron steel wires, and the increased dihedral of the wings(4degs).It is really hard to see if the center section trailing edge is cut square and of course the wheel spokes are impossible.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Friday, March 24, 2006 4:03 PM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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Lufbery

Member since
December 2002
From: Harrisburg, PA

Posted by Lufbery on Friday, March 24, 2006 11:52 AM

Hi John,

A lot of folks swear by soldering irons for bending wood for wooden ship models. This is the first I've heard of using a curling iron, but I'll have to try it.

Regards,

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Friday, March 24, 2006 8:41 AM

Before I forget to mention it again,I have recently been invovled in bending more stripwood for various parts required on the fuslage.
I have found that a good cheap tool for bending wood is an ordinary hand held curler iron.It seems to constantly give off just the right temp for this procedure without being too hot to scourch the wood or too cool.Find a way to clamp the handle to your workbench and then with the ends of the strip, one in each hand, slowly bend the wood to the shape you want.
Depending on the density of the wood let it soak in warm water for awhile before attempting to bend it.You will have to experiment a bit here.if you run into a piece of wood that seems to break no matter how careful you are, check the direction of the grain in you can and make sure that it is running lengthwise through the piece.Crossgrain will break very easily.While most woods will maintain the newly bent shape, if you want to be sure you can pin it to a board until it is thoughly dry.
Yesterday,I continued weathering the fuselage sides using watery Raw Umber flicked on with a toothbrush.Pastels were used for shading here and there especially where dust and dirt would gather.I left the fabric semi-transparent so the the structure barely shows through.I painted over what would have been the military insignia and left a few paint drips here and there.I will now finish off the other side and then put the 2 sides in the jig for installation of the cross members.
I think that I have figured out why I enjoy this weathering stuff so much.For me its like taking a empty canvas and painting a picture.It can be very creative figuring out how to age something.A little of this here and a little of that there.Your imagination can run wild trying to imitate the natural world and how nature ages things.It really increases your powers of observation and respect for natures power to destroy even its most beautiful creations.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Thursday, March 23, 2006 9:01 AM

Hi Guys!
Well yesterday was spent experimenting with fabric covering the Jenny A fuselage sides.
I thought that I had better cover them now before putting them in the jig and adding the cross braces.
Basically ,what I did was take the flat fuselage side and glue on the fabric and cut with an xacto around the perimeter.
First I laid down the fabric(Coverite antique) on a flat surface ,glued on the fuselage side using carpenters glue and put some light weights over and let it dry for a few hours.Then I cut around the perimeter and spray laquered(2-3 thin coats) the whole thing and let dry.
Next ,I airbrushed multiple coats of straight titanium white ,which is almost exactly the color of the antique white fabric, until it was just opaque enough to be able to barely see wood longerons underneath.
I will not be putting the military insignia on the side but will make it look like someone washed it out using a paint brush.It saves me the hassle of making the insignia and is probably is what would have been done anyway.
I havent put on a lot off the fittings or cross brace wires as they would not be seen anyway .Where I decide to selectively ripe the fabric I will install fake ones of piano wire.
Next I got out the pastels and antiqued the interior of the flat fuselage side while I still have easy access to this area.
One thing I forgat to mention about the Coverite fabric.Although it is made to be heat shrunk over the aircrafts frame ,I did not use it for that purpose as it would probably distort the delicate wood structure.Instead I put it on as tight as could while it was laying flat.Even then I did notice some loosening during the subsequent laquering and painting but on an old basketcase airplane this only adds to the look of age.I used the Coverite mostly because of its fine weave and antique color.Now its on to the other side.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 7:50 PM

Hi John!

The dimensional plan of this diorama, in my case, is dictated by the size of the end table I selected to house it. After some shopping with my better half, we purchased two end tables that she was happy with. Both are the same size. One will house my diorama, and little does she know, the other will too, down the road. I have scanned rough sketches of what the end table is now and what it will become in the final diorama version. See the pics below. The dimensions between the legs dictate that my diorama base dimensions will be 24 1/2 by 21 1/2 inches by 1/2 inch thick.

Knowing the end table & diorama base dimensions, the layout can now be established. Following my story line, the largest piece is the Jenny airplane at a 1/32 scale wingspan of 16.34" by a length of 10.22" by a height of 9.83". One half of the end table's length dimension is 12 7/8 inches. By splitting the diorama base in half with a divider, one side could be the barn space and the other the outside space.

In order to know the barn dimensions I have to convert 1/32 scale to an architectural scale of 3/8" = 1 foot. (both are the same). The architectural scale will also be used down the road for verification of figures, building miscellaneous items and verification of automobiles. (ie: a 6 foot standing man figure should be 2 1/4" high & a sitting man figure should be 1 5/8") Working in one scale throughout, while building the diorama, becomes very important. I will be using a 3/8" = 1' foot throughout.

Since I will be using some train scale items, they will be #1, Std., or G scale. Train scales are an animal unto themselves. For instance, G scale items range between 1/20, 1/20.5, 1/22.5, 1/24, 1/29 & 1/32 scales. #1 and standard items are 1/32. In the case of G scale figures, I want to make sure they are all six feet or below. I don't want any 1/20 giants in the diorama. I'll possibly use 1/32 diecast or plastic model items too. All of them will have to be verified at the 3/8" = 1 foot scale.

My next posting will be the diorama plan by itself.

Regards, Larry

user posted image

--------------------

If you're convinced you don't make mistakes; build a model!

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 9:22 AM

Differences between the Jenny A(prod) and D models.

-Dep type wheel not sticks in the cockpit.
-upper and lower ailerons with steel wire interconnections.
-lower wing braces same as top wing but on the underside.
-small differences in wing span and length but a major difference in dihedral of 3 inches.
-engine exhausts differ
-wing center section outline is squared on the A model.
-lower wing tips pointed and not round as on the D model.
-Landing gear wheels Ackermann type spring spokes and not the standard 40 spoke.
Thats what I have discovered so far.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, March 22, 2006 8:32 AM

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the imput.I still have a while to think about it as I am invovled in building the 2nd Jenny right now.
I am kind of leaning towards the "build only what you need to tell your story" school of thought.The Jenny story is two fold.The main story is a group of veterens getting together on Rememberance Day .The sub story is Jennys contribution to aviation.
I figure that I can "keep it tight" by having all the action centered on the pilot group.
All the other figures will be looking towards this main group, which will be placed front and center(actually off to one side) in the dio.The central theme here is the human experience not so much the objects.Everything ,including the Jenny, is sort of in a supporting role. Interesting but not essential. So I guess that it is a question of how much importance to give to the secondary storyline.
The showcar ,advertising trailer and the motorcycles are optional but I still would like to find a way to include them as they are colorful and help to balance an otherwise somber mood.The second showcar and the Model T's are really not necessary at all and may be just distractions.The only way that I can see including them would be to put some figures near or in them looking on into the main pilot group.Maybe on the ramp area off to the side somewhere or with the front of the cars pointed towards the pilot group.
One other thing here that I forgot to mention earlier is that the Billy Bishop figure is central to this group ,he is laughing and giving a" thumbs up" signal indicating that he is telling a joke or funny story.The others are looking on in surpise not expecting to hear laughter on such a sad day.I wanted to include this element because I know the nature of fighter pilots and barnstormers .I want to show what seperates them from the civilians.(shared experience & a devil may care attitude towards life)
At this stage I think that I will eliminate the ops/radio shack and the 2nd hangar but will keep the engine shop module as it is attached to the main building and any figures therein would be standing at the door looking in.

This post has b

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 6:50 PM

Jenny JN4A(prod)

Due to its long fuselage and because of space considerations ,I will be breaking up the fuselage into 3 sections.
I have often seen pics of Jennys that have been in accidents, and they seem especially vulnerable to breakage just behind the rear cockpit ,so I probably will break it there and leave a few wires hanging out, as though someone had just collected the wreckage from a field.Between the main engine compartment and fuel tank/firewall area I will cut the longerons to make it look like someone had just sawn off the engine and hauled it off to the engine shop.The wings will be stored up against the hangar wall and maybe one on saw horses with the fabric being ripped open.
I am building the fuselage sides now, in one piece, on a flat board covered with insulation and wax paper.A lot of the fittings will be left off as they were either robbed for the Canuck or will not be seen behind the fabric.
I have a good set of color pics from the museum of a Neiuport 12 undergoing rebuild several years ago.There are many good details of what can be discovered under old fabric.Nice aged wood tones some corrosion and water stains etc...All great ideas for weathering.One thing that I have noticed is a kind of white paint that has been applied to the wing rib capstrips, where they meet the fabric.Was this a size or sealer of some kind?If anyone knows please advise. In my next post I will be listing the main differences that I have discovered between the JN4D and the A model.
Cheers! John.

_______________

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 8:46 AM

Yesterday, I spent doing research on the 2nd Jenny,the basketcase.I started off thinking that I would just do the "D" model as representted in the plans and booklet for the original kit.Well plans have changed.I noticed in a pic of a painting that I have that the artist ,Robert Bradford shows 2 Jennys ,one a typical Canuck version and the other what I thought was a JN4D.Upon further examination of the painting I noticed double ailerons top and bottom and a strange wire and brace rigging of the lower wing.Further research shows that 2 types operated in Canada ,the Canuck and the JN4 A (production model).
This is a version not often modeled so I think that I will go for it.The fabric color is antique linen and the cowlings and trim olive drab.Other than a tail number and box like insignia there is little color here to distract from the main subject ,the Canuck.The fuselage appears opaque, while the wings and control surfaces are clear doped linen.
I mention all this to give you an idea as to how I leave myself open to change as I go along.It is good to have an idea of where you are going when you start but nothing should be written in stone.Fun isn't it ?
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 20, 2006 8:01 AM

Hi Larry,to be totally honest with you I really dont have much experience in the model market itself,as I have pretty much concentrated on 1/16th wood airplane models up until now.My plastic experience is mostly with a couple of cars and figures.
There are some beautiful plastic kits out there now.Check with www.modelingmadness.com for kit reviews.
For WW1 airplanes see www.theaerodrome.com and www.wwi-models.org

A good site to check on whats available in any scale is www.greatmodels.com click on catagories for the list of scales.

The deskmodel Jenny looks like it might have some potential especially with a little modification.You make want to check that the overall measurements are within the ballpark though.

Dave, Hi! welcome aboard,take a look at the same sites and get back to me.
Cheers! John.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 20, 2006 7:52 AM

OK, I am another car/truck guy that is into dioramas, and I also want to do an airplane with a car diorama.

At a recent swap meet I ran across a Hobby Craft kit of a 1/28th scale Fokker DR.1 I think this is a "re-box" of an old Revell kit from the 60's , not sure though. Opening the kit up I found three figures included and....away we go.....ANOTHER project. I am looking at using a 1927 T Touring car by AMT in the setting.

Where does one find out where the "rigging"....(the directions are vague), the wires for stability go and how do they attach, is there an airplane site for this? As I said I am a car guy, but am always willing to learn new stuff.
Dave

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Monday, March 20, 2006 7:43 AM

Hi John!

The most difficult aspect of this diorama has been deciding what I want vs. what is believable. I want a plane that was different and exciting. Of course, to me, that was a tri-plane vs. the common everyday bi-plane. This meant finding one that was historically believeable. Well, none are, except maybe the Sopwith Allied tri-planes that possibly could have shown up on the Canadian surplus market and landed in the U.S. There were also references that Russia procurred a few after WW1. The only other two period planes would have been the Fokker DR.1 German tri-planes and the seagoing Fokker pontoon tri-planes.

First choice was the Sopwith tri-plane in 1:32 scale. I could only find 1:48 and 1/4 scales. Last choice was the Fokker DR.1 (Red Baron) 1:32 scale. I found old out of production Revell kits in 1:32 & 1:28, new Revell 1:28, two new Hobbycraft 1:32 in two old & new styles and a Roden Ro601 1:32 kit. I couldn't find any period pontoon tri-planes in any scale, but retrofitting them with wheels might have worked. There were references to U.S. to Hawaii flights by them in 1925. Both the Sopwith and the Fokkers were single seater fighter planes, leading to another hitch. Modifying either of them to two seaters may have been possible, but unlikely.

I could and probably should go back to the Jenny J-4. Making it different and exciting would have to be in the paint and graphics job. I couldn't find 1:32 kits (unless some of your aircraft forum people do), only premade desktop models. An acceptable one is pictured below in true 1:32. It means revising my story line already and re-painting, re-graphicing a desktop plane like this. Compromise, compromise!

Regards, Larry

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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JohnReid

Member since
February 2004
From: Montreal/Canada

Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:06 PM

Jenny #1 ,the Canuck is now finished except for putting on the wheels and tail assembly.I will now put her aside until she is ready for final installation in the hangar.I decided that she would be just too vulnerable to damage out of the jig.
Now its on to Jenny #2,the JN4D basketcase.This I am really looking forward to having fun with as I plan to show lots of damage and weathering.It will be my first shot at covering anything with fabric.(however I did help cover the real thing in the 60s).
First I will have to decide on just how much floorspace is available for the 2nd fuselage and whether or not to build it in one piece.I have lots of leeway here in that it could be a fuselage that was involved in an accident and in many pieces.The wings can be stored up against the walls or hanging from the rafters depending upon viewer sightlines.Most of the engine parts are destined for the engine shop.Other components can go on parts racks or shelves.
I will probably drive myself crazy(if I'm not already there)trying to find just the right place for everything to go.At this stage it is critical to get it right.
Man,this is fun!

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/

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