Washes?

I generally make my own washes, using either oils and mineral spirits, or craft store acrylics and water.  As Don noted, you need them very thin, ie, heavy on the thinner and very light on the color.

I have also bought two of AK Interactive's prepared washes, just to see what all the fuss is about.  They are very easy to use, since they are premixed and have stabilizers and other compounds to take the guesswork out of making a wash.  I can see how modelers would want to use them.  For me, it's a point of pride to do it the old (hard) way and experiment and learn to make my own.

Also, I tend to use either black, or to use dark browns, burnt siena or burnt umber, for nearly all of my washes.  I found that the browns especially go well with a wide range of colors.  That is to say, when I compare a recess with a black wash to one with a brown wash, the brown wash more often looks like the natural shadow or shade that you'd see, under natural light, than the black does.  I also use the brown washes on pilot and ground crew figures in 1/48 or smaller, as a quick and easy way to add shading, to faces, uniforms and gear.

BrandonK

This is where I learned my technique. The other methods my be better but I haven't tried them yet. I am very happy with my results thus far.

That's probably the best video tute I've seen for oil washes. Thank you for posting it, Brandon.

Makes me want to give it a go again, for sure.

The only trouble I have had using them was my fault as they didn't cause the issue. If you clean or rub an area too much or too hard with the turpinoid you can rub through the clear and damage decals and paint underneath. I was able to see it happening and stopped before it was very noticeable and prevented further damage. If you thicken it a bit you can actually hand paint panel line shading if you want. I am curious about using the other method and will give it a go also so I can actually have a full opinion on what I prefer.

Gary, thank you for confirming my buying direct from Flory memory. Guess I have some (memory) left after all.

Duke, appreciate the post about Mona Lisa thinner. I keep meaning to buy some to see if I have better luck with oils using it. I think your post will be the one to send me over the edge and just do it.

Jay Jay

Brandon,

i just bought the black and burnt umber oils and some Turpenoid but have yet to try them.

Will the oils affect NMF while Pin washing panel lines ?

Another product to use that is better than turpenoid is Mona Lisa thinner for oils. It is the most inert thinner on the market. I've mixed my oils with this thinner for my washes and placed it directly over enamel and lacquer finishes and have had no ill effects. You can find it in the paint section of any art supply store at a very reasonable price for the size of the container you get.

That being said, I've also used the Flory washes and enjoyed them as well. I never truly mastered the technique so mine were a bit slipshod. I ran out of supply before really learning how to do it well and I never knew where to get it again... until now.

I think I may go that route myself if I can't find it over here this week.

Mike

Greg

You're certainly welcome, Mike.

If you have trouble finding the Flory in stock somewhere, I seem to recall looking at their direct pricing and shipping charges across the pond, I think they were reasonable. But then my memory ain't the greatest.

You're exactly right Greg.  I bought my set of washes directly from Phil Flory through his website and he was a really good guy to deal with.

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/

Gary

You're certainly welcome, Mike.

If you have trouble finding the Flory in stock somewhere, I seem to recall looking at their direct pricing and shipping charges across the pond, I think they were reasonable. But then my memory ain't the greatest.

Thanks Greg.  I have watched their how to video and thanks for the heads up on the abrasiveness.

Mike

Another Flory fan here.

Have tried other methods including artist oils and Vallejo, can't seem to get the hang of them.

I also lack in patience, making the Flory perfect for me. Slop it on, wipe away at my convenience. You can leave this stuff on forever and come back and wipe it off anytime. Or wash it all off and start over.

Highly recommend watching Flory's own 'how to" video on their site.

One word of caution, I find the clay-based pigment ever so slightly abrasive. On my first go with it, I got too aggressive 'scrubbing' over a too thin clear coat and did a tad bit of damage. My bad, the product isn't meant to be 'scrubbed' off, rather gently wiped.

Your 190 is looking awesome, Mike.

BrandonK

This is where I learned my technique. The other methods my be better but I haven't tried them yet. I am very happy with my results thus far.

This is what I have been doing, you may be able to see it better along the ailerons and elevators.  Maybe I just need more patience........................not one of my strong suits. LOL

Mike

Same method I use and works every time. I have to mention that I do not use all those expensive products featured in the video. I use regular turpentine from Home Depot and a set of Reeves artists oils from Hobby Lobby that was about $11 for 24 small tubes.

This is where I learned my technique. The other methods my be better but I haven't tried them yet. I am very happy with my results thus far.

Jay Jay

Brandon,

i just bought the black and burnt umber oils and some Turpenoid but have yet to try them.

Will the oils affect NMF while Pin washing panel lines ?

Brandon,

i just bought the black and burnt umber oils and some Turpenoid but have yet to try them.

Will the oils affect NMF while Pin washing panel lines ?

I've been using odorless turpentine and artist oils. Black and burnt umber. I mix one bottle black to the look of coffee and the other bottle with burnt umber and small amount of black for a more dirt like affect. Again, it is as thin as coffee. Using a fine brush I dot it where I want it and use the turpentine with a Qtip to remove the areas I don't want after it has dried. Then seal it with my final coat. I am curious about the products listed above and may give them a try, but I am happy with my oil so far. The great thing about it is if you make a mistake or don't like it you can completely remove it and start over with no harm to the paint or decals.

That Flory Wash is great stuff for sure.Great looking camo on your 190

Thanks Don, I always come to Aircraft first and try to make it "down there" when I can. LOL

Mike

Also, I should have recommended checking out a couple of other forums that often have "washes" threads, the Techniques and the Painting and Airbrushing forums.

These are in the Tools, Techniques and Reference Materials area, the last area in the forums list.

Thanks Buck. I may just get a couple of bottles to try it out. I got a couple of bottles of Vallejo wash but don't like how it behaves so I keep using my thinner and oil paint mix.

Sprue Brothers carries it but most are out of stock right now.

I mix my own with store bought thinner and artists oils. I do find that Flory product interesting. Is that available locally or only across the pond?

Thanks guys!  I've been using oils but I just can't seem to get the mix right, either too thin or too thick.  Will get the Flory wash ordered and see how I like that.

Here's another pic but it's a bit washed out from the bright sunlight.  I think I'll add some more mottling.  Everything was done freehand with the airbrush except for the hard edge on the wings and horizontal stabilizer.  For that I cut masks from blue painters tape.

Will post more pics when I get it washed and add some silver chipping in wear areas and a little exhaust staining.

Mike

If you do want to make your own, it has to be very thin.  If you are trying washes in panel lines, go very easy. It is too easy to overdo black or super dark panel lines.

I have tried a few but find my own method works best.

I use odourless thinners and add Black/brown oils until i get a nice thin mix.

Maybe give it go along side the commercial stuff and see how it goes.

I am another Flory wash user, I love that stuff.

Awesome work Mike.  I second Gary's suggestion.  I use the Flory on all of my panel lines now.  Slop it on, let it dry, then wipe it off with a slightly damp paper towel .  It does a nice job bringing out all of the other details too, such as rivets.  I mix the Dark Dirt and Black to varing degrees.  You can get it at Sprue Brothers.  

Joe

If that's far from your best, I give up!  Looks great from this angle.

I've used the citadel and it dries really quickly, so I personally have to work in small sections.  I've also had a little more success with thinned oils as they seem to be more forgiving and they give you time to actually make some progress before you have to come back and start wiping up.

Groot

I've used this stuff on my last 2 or 3 builds.  It's clay-based and works really well and quite easy too.

http://www.florymodels.co.uk/washes/