1/24 JU-87b - COMPLETED

Thanx mr T, always good to hear from you :-)

T

Good to see this one back.

These 1/24th's do look fascinating and it's always fun to watch.

I had to fill the gap between the windscreen and the fuselage as the fit was quite bad.

I used tamiya putty and to smooth it I used acetone on an earbud. However when I removed the masking tape the acetone had bled under it and melted part of the clear plastic .....

I will have to somehow sand this all off and try pollish it back again, that is gona be fun!

Theuns

I don't even have words to tell you how jealous I am of your skills both on the detail work and filling seams. I've got a AMT Tempest kit that's giving me fits (where the seams are concerned) right now. I need to buckle down and learn some of these techniques I've been seein on here. I see work like this and think...nah...no one needs to see WIP pics of this kit I'm working on. 

Hi, seams and filling are really one of my pet hates, I just can not stand having to do them but that is all part of modling.

What I have learned is that you need to do all you can to get the seam/joint as smooth as you can to lesten any sanding needed afterwards that could lead to lost detail.

I usually put masking tape either side of the seam, then put tamiya putty and quickly smooth it out with an ear bub dipped in either acetone or thinners.

This will usually lead to a nice smooth "bead" that will need littl sanding.

Just make sure it doesnt go under the masking tape on clear bits !

What I love abuot this forum is that no matter what our models look like there is no bad comments from members and it does not matter how much you think you know there is always something to learn form fellow members :-)

Theuns

After looking carefully at the damage to the clearbits I realized that the worst area was in the small opening window of the windshield.....so I simply cut it out and will make a seperate opening window from clear plastic. I will not even atempt to glue it back so it will be left in the open position.

The rest of the affected area I sanded and pollished. It is not perfect but I can live with it.

I am hoping to get close to paintng soon. Still can not make up my mind to go for splinter or mottle trop scheme.

Theuns

I get what you're saying. I've noticed everyone here is really positive. I'll probably just do before and after type pics after I get the seams right. My excuse right now is not having an account on a pic hosting site. lol. I just need to build confidence as my last model (a tamya 1/35 flak 88) was my first model really paying attention to the seams. I also toyed with making mud and scratching up the feet on that one. 

Anyway...enough about my stuff. Glad you'll be able to salvage the clear piece that got trashed. Look forward to seeing your next update. 

I had big plans for this model (as I always do) but have reached the point where I will push as hard as I can now to just get it done asap as I get very iritated when a model starts to fight me ...

Theuns

I hope that if I brush on some future it will restore the left side of the windshield.

Looking awesome! Hope the polish works for you,it doesnt look too hateful

Theuns

I hope that if I brush on some future it will restore the left side of the windshield.

I don't know what it looks like in person, but in the pic that boo-boo on the surface of windscreen almost looks as if it belongs there.

Nice use of the Twist Tie wire! I used the same trick on my Spitfire  ;)

When having to fill-in around clear parts, as you well know now, its better to leave the masking off as it does draw in thinners and solvents. Does the same thing if your paints are super thin and you spray them on too heavy.

If you buff that windscreen well enough then an application of gloss should bring it back pretty close to its orriginal condition. I typically have at least one spot on a canopy that needs to be brought back from the fog. I've learned that you can actually get away with spraying testors dull cote over glass and getting the shine back with some thinned gloss and a hairy stick.

I used that trick on a Kubelwagon windshield to make part of it look dusty lol.

I do like how you added the extra pieces to your belts, Theuns. This build is shaping up really well despite the troubles you've had so far. Fixing these flubs is a real show of talent.  :)

This is a whole lotta  blue !

It's coming along nicely. A few markings will help break that up for sure. Such a big kit.

BK

No kidding about a big kit...I just sprayed up  whole tin of humbrol RLM 71 and I still need to do one side of the fin . Will have to go buy more :-(

Theuns

RLM 71 basecoat on, will mask tonight and do the RLM splinter over the weekend.

Nice and smooth! Where does a guy display one of these gorillas at?

That is a hassle, I dont have a displaycase that would take it, I might have to put it in a  box till I get space oneday.

Theuns

Just as an idea for you, I did come up with a display for my 1/24 scale Bf109. I went to Hobby Lobby and bought a shadow box/ frame and then got a mirror cut to the dimensions of the frame. I then went to a local business that deals with clear plastic and had them make me a clear plastic lid for it. Take the sides out of the inside of the shadow box and remove the glass then reinstall the side rails/ glass retainer. These will now be used to lay your base on. I laid the black felt down over the side rails/ retainers and placed the mirror over the felt. After that you can place the lid down on the mirror and it fits just inside the lip of the frame.

Here is the end result. ( I later bought a black frame because it looks alot better to me):

Here's one I made for a buddy of mine when I built a 1/48 scale Corsair for him since he has no display case at all. This is just the base but I got him a Lexan  (clear plastic ) lid made for this as well.

Cool idea. I looked at a display case from perspex but they wanted about $200 for it , wat out of my budget.

Anyway, an hour into masking I regreted my choice of doing the splinter scheme...

Now just waiting for the RLM 70 to dry to see if it was worth the effort.

Here it is with the camo on

When I shot on the clear acrylic these marks appeared

I think it might be the paint blushing. I left it in the sun for a bit and it seems it is looking a little better. I hope the worst will come out so I can put more clear on for decals.

I might have just pulled it off, it looks like those marks went away with the more clearcoat I put on

I was a bit worried about the decals being old and mabe not sitting well.
I cut out the big bottom crosses and they formed quite well. This was good news
Then I put the side decals on but again I was worried that the very large clear carrieffilm would show up even with the gloss and microso. 
So I painstakingly used a scalpel and fine tweezers to cut out and remove all the carrier film between the letters and cross. 
I will seat all the decals later with microsol,just to get it into the rivets nicely.

Daaaaaaaaaaaang!!! You blew right on through that paint job and decal work in no time flat! That Stuka looks amazing so far Theuns! Looking forward to the weathering process and the flat coat.

Thurns, your skill in building the Stuka is amazing!  I can't wait for the final reveal!

Toshi

She's looking like a Stuka.

Nice work on the splinter. The masking tape company likes you.

 The masking tape company likes you. 

Yea, them and the paint company! 

I am "microsoling" the decals now and hope to get the final bits on today. It is not a good day for painting so I will wait till it is a little dryer.

I put a blue panel wash on the bottom but that looked really stupid. Then I did a black wash. Although the effect (for scale acuracy) is way to dramatic , it just looks wrong without it, to much monocrome blue I guess.

Theuns

Theuns

 I put a blue panel wash on the bottom but that looked really stupid. Then I did a black wash. Although the effect (for scale acuracy) is way to dramatic , it just looks wrong without it, to much monocrome blue I guess.

In such cases, I use a little bit thinner wash...I cut the black with Raw Umber. You still get the effect, but it's not so stark that it looks "off".

Anyway...I am liking this build...a lot!

I will give it a go next time. 

I hope the matt coat will tone it down a little.

Theuns

Thtas looking very nice. Great job on the splinter.