B-17C/D W.I.P. ...

I hadn't thought about that, you know, painting the rudder first. I know that the Alclad is easy to mask after it goes down and then cures, so I'l do that then. I'll be doing one the the P-36's (maybe both of them) and the B-17 in NMF with the red, white and blue rudder.

As for "diving right in," having been out of the hobby as long as you have been in the hobby, I have a lot of time to make up.

Top 'O the page! A round of IBC root beers for everyone!

Building up the wings today on the B-17. Went to Harbor Freight to get some plastic clamps to help in the effort. 99¢ for six. 69¢ for a couple of larger clamps. Not bad.

fotofrank

I don't know if this was the case or not way back when, but since this B-17is unarmed, I filled the opening in the gun tub with styrene to close up the big hole.

 

 

 

Actually, Frank, the bathtub opening has a plexiglass cover so the gunner can see what is  behind even when it is unarmed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycPmZ85xn5M&t=151s

Thanks, Richs26. Maybe I have a piece of clear plastic I can put in there instead.

Swoosie Kurtz's dad, Frank Kurtz, piloted the Swoose. 

https://www.thefreelibrary.com/FRANK+KURTZ%2C+%60SWOOSE%27+PILOT+AND+OLYMPIC+DIVER%2C+AT+85.-a084002143

I saw a picture of MD 105 on the ground showing it doesn't have the belly gun position attached.  Haven't seen it online but it's on a Jeff Ethell book called Bomber Command.

Found a copy online:

http://www.anigrand.com/images/items/AA4087_B-17B/AA4087_B-17B_real-2.jpg 

Thanks, GreenStyrene. Not having the gun tub on the underside saves me a lot of work.

I met Jeff Ethell many years ago at the TICO Warbird Airshow, when the group that is now the VAC was still part of the CAF. I think he was writing an article on the airshow for Air Classics magazine.

I just now found two more pictures of MD105 by doing a Google image search. Apparently, the gun tub was not installed on this particular airplane. Good to know. The finished model will have a much sleeker appearance. Thanks, GreenStyrene. I do need to move the Commander's Bubble to the right though.

Man! Photobucket is such a P.I.T.A.!

That Swoosie Kurtz article was just fascinating and TY so much for posting that.

I wonder if the real airplane was actually mottled in appearance or is that just how it looks because of some kind of photographic anomally.

Not to hijack your thread...

Info request for B17f interior pics & EXTERIOR Lights info,

According to the Monogram B17G instructions, this was lit up like a Christmas tree…. See where I’m going with this?

Jon_a_its

Not to hijack your thread...

Info request for B17f interior pics & EXTERIOR Lights info,

According to the Monogram B17G instructions, this was lit up like a Christmas tree…. See where I’m going with this?

 

 

 

No. Not quite sure what you're asking.

The airplane has lots of exterior lights?

Starting to mask the clear parts today. I dipped them in Pledge a week or so ago. Now the really difficult part -- masking all of those 1/72 scale clear parts. I don't know how long it took to maks the turtleback window, maybe 30-45 minutes. Eraser shield, #11 x-acto blade and pointed tweezers. Plus my Optivisor. Since I had cataract surgery, I can't see anything closer than my hand unaided.

I hear you on the 1/72 masking.  I also have to use all the same tools and magnifiers.  Not a necessary step but an option since 1/72 clear parts are so hard to mask and fix if you have any bleed thru.

After you have masked all your clear parts, consider shooting them with another thin coat of future with your airbrush.  This will seal the edges of the masking tape with the first coat of future and insure a crisp edge and no bleed thru.  Do not re dip in future as this is too thick a coat of future.

Thanks, Route62. So much great information.

I might call on you when it comes time to do the nose glass!

Here are the waist windows. Whew! Time for break and then the canopy(?).

I hope you don't mind some critique.  I know how important this build is for you to get it right.  I saw a few issues in your masking that I circled in the pic below.  The masking tape does not seem to line up from one piece to the next and there looks to be some gaps.  I would hate for you to pull the masking off after painting only to find these issues and have to correct later, expecially if the part is attached to fuselage.

The metal templates I have may offer better shapes to cut out the masking tape to better match the shape of the framing.  Let me know if want to arrange to meet up over the weekend to tackle this.

As a result of the above post, I re-masked the waist windows and turtle-back clear parts on the B-17 today. Route62 was a big help today, supplying templates for me to use to cut the masking tape to the correct size and shape to fit the windows. Route62 has been a big help since I've gotten back into the hobby. All the stuff I used to know he's helping me re-learn.

Doing some more masking of clear parts today and I'm moving the commander's blister over to the right so it will be directly over the right rear seat on the flight deck.

fotofrank

No. Not quite sure what you're asking.

The airplane has lots of exterior lights?

 

From help & info from many others, there are 21 external lights on an F, just an idea to spruce up the otherwise lacklustre Revell 1/48th kit.

Sometimes my ambition exceeds my knowledge...   But that's how we learn, eh?

Ambition exceeding knowledge! man, I know how that feels. Happens to me all the time.

Like now: I'm putting the clear parts on the B-17 because some of the parts will be easier to mask after they are attached, like the nose, etc. I put the canopy on and the clear part for the turtl-back. The turtle-back had tabs to catch the part so it wouldn't fall into the fuselage and it was successfully glued in place. The waist windows are different. No tabs. Just a flush fit. I thought I could use tape to hold them in place for glue but that won't work. The window still sinks into the fuselage. It doesn't remain flush. I think I'm going to try to fashion some tabs out of styrene that will support the windows so I can glue them in. Of all the reviews I read on this kit, this problem was never discussed. Sure wish I'd known about that before I closed up the fuselage.

I second your idea of styrene tabs on the inside to support the clear part.  Even if the tape did work, many times due to capilary action, the glue will follow the tape up and down the fuselage creating ridges on the fuselage, or worse possibly create issues on your clear parts.  Also the glue may interact poorly with the tape adhesive causing more issues.

I need to get the turtle-back clear part out. It's glued in with Testors liquid cement. It needs to be painted black on the inside. As I put the tabs in for the waist windows I'll paint the inside of the waist windows black.

The turtle part is the bubble that goes over one of the seats?  Is the main canopy attached to the fuselage?  I have some ideas based on your answers.

Looking to your build for inspiratio!  Great job!

Your friend Toshi

Toshi, thanks for the vote of confidence. Right now I'm not really feeling "it." This B-17 is a struggle every step of the way. And to think I want to do another one of these kits as the "Mary Ann" from the movie Air Force. Anyway, it never occurred to me that after the turtle-back glass and the waist windows are in you can look right down into the airplane and see the gray plastic inside. Well, the turtle-back glass is already glued in and I need to paint the inside black to hide the interior. I'll do the same with the waist windows.

..

I rigged a Q-tip to a coffee stirrer. I should be able to reach through the waist windows and swab the turtle-back glass with black paint to hide the interior. Man-o-man, necessity is a mother...of invention. Wish me luck.

SUCCESS!! I taped a Q-tip to a wooden stick that reached from the waist windows to the turtle-back window. It worked like a charm. I feel so much better now. I dipped the Q-tip in MM flat black acrylic, reached through tthe waist window and swabbed the Turtle-back window. The procedure worked so well. Now the gray inside plastic is hidden from view. Now I need to glue in the styrene tabs to hold the waist windows and this build can really get a move on! The two little white dots over the flight deck are the holes I filled because I'm moving the commander's blister to the right so it will be over the right rear seat, just like the picture I'm using as my guide!

Glad to see it worked!  The hole you had to fill on the top of the clear part, will that be painted over?  If that is supposed to remain clear, instead of filling with white filler, you may want to fill it with a glue that dries clear.

Now THAT'S ingenuity! Great job so far on your Fortress. I am starting a B-17G tonight and decided to take a stroll throught the aircraft forum to see if anyone else had a B-17 build going. Can't wait to see what you do with yours! 

Thanks, Rocker. this is the first B-17 I have build in many many years. I've always been fond of the early Forts with their shark-fin tail. I have two more B-17C kits im my stash along with a B-17E and a Pro-Modeler B-17G. Not sure when I'll get to them though. These Academy/Italeri kits are not for the faint of heart. Even so, I'd like to find the Academy B-17F "Memphis Belle" kit.

Start a build thread on your B-17G so we can follow your progress.