Very old REVELL B52 WIP

A paintbooth? I made one a while ago, but it has not been used that much.

If you don't mind, please send us a photo of your desktop paintbooth.

Hi Peter,

Thanks for checking in.  Yes I suppose your last batch has gone stale.  Sorry about that.  The weather here has been dismal.  If it is not freezing cold it has been flash flooding.  I ordered and just received the small desktop paintbooth.  Need to get some paint on this thing.  Should have a new report real quick like.

What's happening Mark?

I am going to have to make more popcorn.

I've noticed it is a delicate balancing act.  I have been using a BARELY wet microbrush to try to manipulate it.  Any more than that and you risk washing out the whole joint.  I'm still trying to get a handle on it.

If the putty is so soluble to water, it may be of advantage for cleaning up the dry rough bits with a most, not wet, Q-tip or rag.

Thanks Mark.

Thanks Peter.  I appreciate that.

I am using Perfect Plastic Putty.  I like it so far.  Make sure you order the syringe kit too.  If I was using a spatula it would be a disaster.  There is a good promo video of it on youtube.  

Thanks for stopping by.  

mmthax, what do you use for putty? I need to get that stuff.

the Baron

Great progress!  "Patience and perseverance made a bishop of His Reverence!"  

Thanks Baron.  I haven't heard that one before, but I like it.

the Baron

   It's a very minor disadvantage to a product that has received glowing reviews otherwise.

Great progress!  "Patience and perseverance made a bishop of His Reverence!"

mmthrax

...I am using the Perfect Plastic putty.  So far I really like it.  I am using the tiny syringe, then using a green microbrush with a tiny bit of water to try to smooth it.  When they say it is water soluble, it is VERY water soluble.  The tiniest bit of water will set it off...

Yeah, one of the guys in my club mentioned that, when he used the putty, then tried to wet-sand the seam.  The water dissolved the putty.  It's a very minor disadvantage to a product that has received glowing reviews otherwise.

Thanks Nick.  Doing my best.  Some of the work is pretty rough, but I am where I am in my progression, and I can't be anywhere else.  It will get better.  Thanks for the read and reply. 

way to go !!  fill those gaps. you teach them gaps

Thanks Jay Jay and Carlos.  I appreciate the kind words.  It motivates me to do better.  

I did some more putty work around the engine struts and tanks.  I am using the Perfect Plastic putty.  So far I really like it.  I am using the tiny syringe, then using a green microbrush with a tiny bit of water to try to smooth it.  When they say it is water soluble, it is VERY water soluble.  The tiniest bit of water will set it off.  I feel like I am using a "dry brushing" technique to try to move and smooth the stuff around.  I am having decent results.  I then use a Q-tip to try to remove any wet streaks that will dry later.  Hopefully, once I get this fairly smooth the primer will help.  Of course it will reveal what madness is to ensue. 

GMorrison

Sure looks like a BUFF.

I'm impressed- this model was conceived as little more than an "afternoon" build. You are doing a really swell job.

 

Right... I built it as a kid in such a session... this one is coming out far better...

Nice job overcoming the fits and problems of this kit. it's gonna turn out well in your capable hands

Thanks guys.  I appreciate that.  

Sure looks like a BUFF.

I'm impressed- this model was conceived as little more than an "afternoon" build. You are doing a really swell job.

Problems aside... it sure is a cool looking plane. Keep at sir.

I mounted the engine pods to the mounting struts.  Big mistake.  I should have mounted the strut to the wing first.  The net result of this is that the engines are not level.  The struts did not want to fit properly and I began to stop smiling.  I decided to lose the battle today to try to win the war tomorrow.  They went on the plane, badly, and I decided to putty the gaps.  That procedure seemed to go well.  I have a feeling that it will all work out.  I'm smiling again.  Laughing as I learn.    Time for primer.

Managed to get a little bit done.  I discovered these tiny nubs under the wing. 

Evidently they are for the mounting of the X15 aircraft as seen in this old school Revell release:

Trying to keep the collateral damage to a minimum, I used my new tiny files to remove them.

It's not as bad as it looks, and one nub went much better than the other one.    I made a small cradle from a pool noodle (thanks to the shipbuilding.ca website--credit where it is due) and got the tanks mounted.  Those went well.

That's where it went south.  

Thanks Peter.  That is great info.  I really appreciate it.

mmthrazx, Doing a great job with your project.

To find the scale of your model, divide actual length with model length.

B52 length 49 m, wingspan 56 m.

49 m / 144 scale = 340 mm

49 m / 175 scale = 280mm

This is great info.  Thanks a lot!!

I found the reference I was thinking of, and you are correct, the topside SIOP camo was the same for both camo schemes; Tan FS34201, Olive Green FS34159, Dark Green FS34079. The reference I am using is a  profile by Phil Kirchmeier in the September 1993 issue of FSM. I cross checked the pattern he published against photos I took of the planes when I was in SAC, and they match, with only a little bit of variance in the demarcation lines from plane to plane as you would expect from hand applied paint jobs.

Note 1: The FSM profile is for a short tail G model like the ones I photographed. The D models had a higher tail so the partterns on the tail would be different in the original camo, while the ones used over Vietnam had the whole tail fin in black.

Note 2: The colors as they are reproduced in the magazine printing process are off. The FS numbers are the correct colors to use.

Tanker - Builder

 I would carve the aft clear piece from a square of plastic . Perhaps a tooth-brush handle .   

 I actually think the Camo version looks meaner especially with the Black Bottom ! 

 

Thanks TB.  That is a great idea.  I got some .007 acetate and I was going to try to work with that.  The toothbrush has much better possibilities I think.  

I also like the camo too.  Planning on a camo model later.

Hi;

 I know you'll get a lot of input here . Here's Mine ! I would carve the aft clear piece from a square of plastic . Perhaps a tooth-brush handle .  The ones I have seen at Little Rock AFB were a Medium Aircraft grey with a White or Somewhat light tan bottom .

 I actually think the Camo version looks meaner especially with the Black Bottom ! 

Thanks baron,  I appreciate you sharing your methods.  It is all helpful.  "Decal locators".  Hmm.  That is interesting.  This has been an experience, and I am learning.  What not to do as much as what to do.  It's cool.  Should have another update in a little while.

Thanks to you too roger, that is great info.  This particular model I will be doing in natural over white, but I have another that I was thinking of doing in camo.  This information is helpful.  I appreciate you reaching out.

Great build, Mark!  I like that you have the right attitude about building this old kit.  You're learning lessons to carry on to your next build, but you're having fun.

Your suspicion about the age of the kit is right, too.  That one was first issued in 1954 (holy cow!) and I think the original had decal locators ("idiot markers", a more colorful name).  It's a box scale kit; Thomas Graham lists it as 1/175 in his "Remember Revel Model Kits".

Regarding sanding, I start with paper around 180 grit for utility work, like the first pass on a puttied seam.  I use finer grits, like 400, to clean up, but I also use a set of polishing pads for really clean sanding.  The set I have starts at 1200 and goes through seven or eight successively finer grits, down to 3000.

I look forward to seeing your next post on this one!