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OFFICAL NATURAL METAL FINISH GB V (2013-2014)

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  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by Big Blue on Saturday, December 14, 2013 5:22 PM

Ok, time for an update.

This time of year is busy, so I have not had the time to work on my P-51 that I would have liked.  Here's what I have done since my last post:

First, I have completed spraying the NMF on the fuse and wings, etc.  After getting down the base coat, I went back and picked out a few panels for contrast.  Once they had time to dry, I masked off and painted the yellow ID bands on the wings and tail stabilizers using Gunze Mr. Color yellow (with a dash of Orange-Yellow), and the olive drab on the nose using Tamiya acrylics.

Once they had some time to dry, I masked off the red tail stripes of the 31st FG.  Eagle Strike includes decals for these, but for a couple of reasons, I decided I wanted to paint them instead.  First, Eagle Strike provides markings for 4 different aircraft, but they all share a common set of tail stripes.  The decal for the stabilizers has 4 stripes, but the pictures of Captain Voll's ship that I have found show only 3 stripes.  I scanned the decal sheet into Photoshop, and after some quick napkin math, moved the stripes to evenly space the three I wanted to keep.  When I was satisfied, I printed the pattern out, and used it to cut some tape into appropriately sized bands.  Here's the result:

I still need to paint the candy stripes on the tail and rudder.  Once again, I have printed a pattern (this time just a straight scan of the decal), and plan to cut Tamiya tape.  Eagle Strike provides a decal of partial tail ID numbers (only showing the part of the numbers not covered by the red stripes).  In order to make sure that my painted stripes line up with these numbers, I also printed a copy of the numbers and covered them with Scotch tape to use as an alignment jig.  

While all of that dried, I spent some time on the "fiddly bits" that I had previously ignored:

You can see the ID number "jigs" at the top of the picture.

The wheels are the kit wheels (blech) painted Nato Black.  I masked the centers using a plastic Staedtler circle template, and painted them Alclad Aluminum.  The landing gear has the Eduard p/e attached, and was sprayed with the same Krylon silver I used for the wings.  The prop blades, gear doors and exhausts are all resin after-markets.  I painted the exhausts in layers: Flat Black -> Magnesium -> thin red-brown -> very thin rust, and dry brushed silver after they dried.  Finally I hit them with a bit of MiG Black Smoke pigment.  I also cut pieces of aluminum tubing for the guns, and painted them with Alclad Magnesium (the closest I had to gun metal.)  The tail wheel needs to have its centers painted, and everything will eventually get an oil paint wash.

That's all I have for now.  My next steps will be to paint the tail stripes and prop spinner red.  At some point, I will need to deal with the canopy, and I need to install the scratch built guns and deal with the sloppy holes I drilled to mount them.  Still thinking my strategy through on that one...

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, December 15, 2013 5:39 AM

Looking really good, Blue!

Tug: It's never too late to join a GB unless it has an end date for registration (this one doesn't), The NMF GB is special regarding the date you can join anyway because it is an annual group build. You can join whenever you want and if you can't finish your project in time, just continue working on it in the next round! Wink

Just tell me the scale of your Super Sabre and I'll put it on the list.

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, December 15, 2013 5:43 AM

I had a look at your Crusader BTW and it looks damn fantastic! I'm sure I can learn a lot from watching your build here!

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Sunday, December 15, 2013 12:03 PM

Big Blue

The wheels are the kit wheels (blech) painted Nato Black.  I masked the centers using a plastic Staedtler circle template, and painted them Alclad Aluminum.  The landing gear has the Eduard p/e attached, and was sprayed with the same Krylon silver I used for the wings.  The prop blades, gear doors and exhausts are all resin after-markets.  I painted the exhausts in layers: Flat Black -> Magnesium -> thin red-brown -> very thin rust, and dry brushed silver after they dried.  

Blue that sounds like a good start for painting your exhausts. The only thing I would mention to add to that is one or two coats of a light gray on the tips of the exhausts.  The allied forces in the war used a high leaded octane fuel, and this lead would get deposited on the sides of fuselage wherever the exhausts where located.  The scale you're working on may only really allow for one quick light coat of a light gray.  More than that won't visually stand up from further back.  Any real layering of light gray colors would only be worth depicting along the sides of the wing/fuselage.  And you didn't see too much of that on NMF mustangs.  But as far as the exhaust stacks go...consider dry brushing or airbrushing some thinned out light gray along the tips.  =] 

Just remember if you do...leave the first alone...cause there'd be nothing depositing lead on the first.  Only the ones following, naturally. =]

Try it out!

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Sunday, December 15, 2013 3:14 PM

Hi - Really pleased to hear this 'Sc Sp' - I have got the kit on the bench today and the box opened - tomorrow I shall visit Hannant's and get an Aires cockpit and wheel bay - 'I'm in' as they say and looking forward to participating - will post as soon as there's something to show.

Thanks guys - Tug

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Monday, December 16, 2013 2:25 AM

Hi again ,

Just realised I didn't mention the scale - it's the Trumpeter 1/32 F100D.

Oh yes, something else as well - re your kind remarks regarding the Crusader. It's nice of you to say so but I can see only too well there are some very accomplished modellers on here producing some stunning models - I'm under no illusions,  just really pleased to be part of it.

Regards - Tug

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Monday, December 16, 2013 6:56 AM

Tug.  Just peeked at your Lancaster bomber.  Real nice things there.  I love the fact that you're taking a unique moment of history that stands out a bit and allowing us all to see. =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Monday, December 16, 2013 1:37 PM

Hi 'bv'

Glad you liked the pics - doing it certainly fired me up into continuing in this great hobby despite other distractions from time to time. . I was totally unaware at that time of the immense leap forward of the hobby from doing it previously in the seventies so what an eye opener.  I've thoroughly enjoyed every build since.

Well I got to 'Hannants' today and bought my cockpit and wheelbay for the Hun and came home and made a start... only to hit the first hurdle - I've mislaid the kit instructions. My long suffering wife and I have looked everywhere, just everywhere, to no avail. I know I had them as I took them out to study them but I've either put them 'somewhere safe' or have thrown them out.

All is not quite lost as I have those from the 1/48 kit as a guide and I've contacted a friend who runs the IPMS instruction bank who thinks he may have a copy.

The Aires cockpit lives up to expectation as always - a couple of days preparation should see some painting begin - can't wait - more later Big Smile

regards - Tug

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Thursday, December 19, 2013 4:55 PM

Hi Guy's

Just to say that despite the inevitable distractions that occur at this time of the year I have found time to make a tentative start...

First off though I bought this kit at the recent Scale Model World event at Telford. It was the Thunderbirds version which I got, from a trader, for £45. I had no intention of doing it as a T'Bird but thought it would be the same kit as the standard D, just different decals. I was a little disappointed to find it in the glaring white - not much of a problem I agree but much more disappointed to realise there are no fuel tanks/pylons etc. included which is. Given that it's list price is identical seems like you're paying a lot for some fancy decals. That's not a whinge though seeing as I paid well under half price for it. Ah well 'You win some .....'

As you can see I managed to get that Aires nose wheel bay in without too much problem - that's only dry fitted BTW

 and have had a go at the nozzle too ...

I cut the main tube in two so as to be able to make it easier to paint the inside - it was cut at the transition of the convoluted portion so as to disguise the join once assembled.

There are a few more pics here -https://picasaweb.google.com/Tug423/F100ModelBuild#5959233872823083298

where I'll keep an image log of the build - I'll only post pics of significant stages on here.

Well that's my start - more later in due course

Regards - Tug

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Friday, December 20, 2013 12:22 AM

I'm starting the weathering on this mustang.  Picked up The Detailer...giving it a shot.  Really like it so far.  It's also amazing how stupid I feel by being so fascinated and entertained at the beauty of something like this coming together.  "Making oil look like oil leaking out and sweeping over the fuselage of a plane..." I feel so ridiculous!  =P

But here's one thing I fooled with and I'm pretty happy with the results.  Of course I have no photos of this side of the aircraft, so I took some liberty with how much to put down.  I studied quite a few photos from the time to see the physics of what's going on here.  Gave it my best.  Here: 


image by brittvallot, on Flickr


image by brittvallot, on Flickr

I didn't go crazy with it.  Harry Crim looks like a pretty stand up guy.  I'm sure he took care of his girl.  So I'm just going to assume he kept her fairly tidy.  =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Friday, December 20, 2013 12:58 AM

Oh!  And Tug...who are you kidding?  I just peaked at your post on the Crusader I think it was you just finished.  Holy HELL that's an insane amount of detail!! =]  I would literally have to be retired to pull something like that off.  I wanted to ask you something about it actually...the .10 size "rivets or nuts" you punched out...what was your method for doing so?  I've considered how I might accomplish something similar for a 1:48 scale, but to repeat it quickly and consistently....  I'm not convinced I have the tools for the job currently.  I'm sure there's an easier way.

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Friday, December 20, 2013 2:45 AM

Glad to see everyone still having fun.

although i finished the PF i am determined to finish the damn MF too. had a big mishap resulting in a wing  and a rear stab breaking off  grrrrrrrr.. this plane hates me.

still doing bits as and when i find the will.


DSC02988 by omgpainful, on Flickr

thats just a funny reflection on the blue bit. now need to mask off the spine and tail and do the gloss black base.

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Friday, December 20, 2013 3:51 AM

Hi guys

A couple of questions 'bv',  you said - ''Picked up The Detailer...giving it a shot.'' What's the Detailer please?

You also said - "And Tug...who are you kidding?'' - Oh dear,  what have I said - nothing wrong or controversial I hope - that's not me!

I used a small punch and die to create the tiny discs. I made the tool myself using the drills themselves (reversed) as the punches. It's the same format as those commercial ones but all steel. Usually I just punch out what I need by striking the drill with a small piece of brass as a ''hammer'. On the Crusader, seeing as I needed so many I set the drill in my drill press and clamped the die over a block with a hole in it to catch the punchings. The drill was used to punch, the strip pushed through after each punching for the next. I used two thicknesses so 'colour' coded one by marking the plasticard with a highlighter pen.

Hope that help's 'bv' - BTW - you are quite right - being retired does help Wink

Kind Regards - Ramon

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Friday, December 20, 2013 5:15 AM

Ramon: Great start! Boy, this is going to be a damn good build! I said a few words about your Crusader already and I can't emphasize this enough: She looks freakin' amazing!

Regarding your question: BV is referring to "The Detailer Wash" AFAIK.

Talent: Yeah, da man is back with another one! I can't wait to see more!

BV: You're really bringing this one to life! That's some lovely looking weathering!

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Friday, December 20, 2013 10:03 AM

TUG

A couple of questions 'bv',  you said - ''Picked up The Detailer...giving it a shot.'' What's the Detailer please?

Ha! No, no, no.  All I meant was how accomplished you already seemed to be for being brand new to this site.  I'm still new my own self and I'm still picking up things from others here and there.  But when somebody says they're brand new...you certainly don't click on their first post and expect to see your crusader. ;) Almost makes me want to jump up to 1:32 so I can add more to what I'm doing. =]

But as for the detailer, here's a link:  http://www.thedetailer.net/

It's a water based wash that can go on top of anything.  It wont harm your surface no matter what you're working with.  So long as you've sealed it first of course.  It's a little different from other things I've used in the past as far as how it goes down and works over everything, but if you don't like what you did...wipe it off!  It's very forgiving.  I did my oil stain about 10-12 times before I could get it the way I wanted it.   The guy that had the Phantom as the main icon for this site posted about it in a forum.  He was doing the new 1:32 mustang from Tamiya and spoke about it.  He posts as Chuck(something or other).  He's pretty sharp.  Then I saw Lawdog post about it on one of his recent builds so I thought I'd try it out. It comes in a variety of colors.  I picked up black, brown, and rust.  between those three I feel I can make whatever dirt/grime/grease/oil out of it and well, rust is rust. =]

And thanks about the die press.  Wish I'd have thought of that!  Soon as we finish building our house, I'll have some space in the back where all my tools can go.  Then they won't be in the back of my truck. lol  Perhaps then I'll have more bright ideas like that one. 

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Friday, December 20, 2013 11:19 AM

Hey SS.

May I come play with a 1/72 Airfix MiG 15 in North Korean NMF?

Theuns

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Friday, December 20, 2013 1:20 PM

Sure! It's nice to have you back! I put 2 personal badges for you on the front page if you want to add one to your signature...

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Australia
Posted by taxtp on Friday, December 20, 2013 2:22 PM

Here are some completed photos of my F-86F SAbre. It's the Academy kit, with Microscale and Academy decals. Annoyingly, I had to pinch the U.S. Air Force decals from another Microscale sheet, as they weren't included on with sheet.

I'm sure I took some photos throught the decalling and finishing process, but when I downloaded from the camera, they were not there. Maybe one of the family members has been using it.

The Microscale decals were very delicate, and wanted to break. I'll coat them if I do any more aircraft from that sheet. I gave it two coats of Alclad's gloss varnish, but had three decals lift off, even after that, so for some reason, decal adhesion was a problem on this model. The decals that lifted were a combination of the Academy and Microscale decals. Even more annoyingly, I had to use even more U.S. Air Force decals from my F-101 sheet.. 5 days later, the varnish still hasa slight tackiness, even though it doesn't take fingerprints. I've read about thisoccurring to others with their gloss black primer.

I've lost the front undercarriage bay door, but I'll post it as complete whilst I sort out another one.

This is my first NMF model for many years, and now I feel that it's achievable, so thank you Clemens for hosting this GB, and giving me that opportunity.

Cheers

Tony

I'm just taking it one GB at a time.

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Friday, December 20, 2013 8:00 PM

Nice one Tony!

I just realised after polishing up the primer that i forgot to put the quickboost airscoops on the damn thing . I really must have done something bad in a past life to deserve this.

Shattensparten - i also just realised that my completed build on the front page has been tagged as the Aeromaseter MF when it is actually the Academy PF, I am still building the mf Propeller

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Friday, December 20, 2013 11:31 PM

Hey Tony that is one good looking Sabre you got there mate!

Thanx SS I will start on the MiG soon. Pix to follow.

Can someone please tell me how to put those cool GB badges on my signature?

Thanx

Theuns

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Saturday, December 21, 2013 3:05 AM

Click community settings  look for the signiture box and paste a link in the box just the same way you post normal pics ( you will have to save it on the flikr, photobucket or whatever you use first). Try and keep it small, i think mine are about 200-250 pixels wide.

on a similar vein- Taxtp, how do yiu create and post the gif in your sig?

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:35 PM

She's looking great, Tony!

Talent: Sorry, I kinda mixed things up. I changed it for you!

  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by Big Blue on Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:07 PM

Wow, lots of great work has been put up since I last posted!  Inspiring stuff. 

I've been plugging away and made some progress on my build.  First, I masked off and finished painting the stripes on the tail and rudder:

My technique improved since I painted the horizontal stabilizers, and I'm happy with the results.  Inspired by successfully eliminating the need for one set of decals, I spent a large chunk of my modeling time this week trying to perfect a technique for painting the national insignias.  I fired up my vector art program on my computer, and created the stars and bars.  From there, I tried a number of different ideas for turning it into a usable stencil (my best efforts involved clear frisket film placed over the printed insignias and cut).  Unfortunately, while a number of the test attempts were close... none were good enough for me to attempt it on my P-51.  This image shows a few of the typical issues:

Other than that, I made some more progress on the detail parts, including oil washes, foil for the oleos on the landing struts, and an actuator for the coolant radiator exhaust door made from aluminum tubing.  I also added a few more layers to the exhaust pipes:

(the contrast between the foil and the painted parts is greater that it looks in this picture)

(glue needs to be dull-coated and dirtied up a bit)

I think I am done with basic painting, and am ready to move on to decals and weathering.  Now that I have moved on from working on painting my insignias, I hope to make some progress soon.

Thanks to all for sharing your inspiring work.

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Sunday, December 22, 2013 12:12 AM

Big Blue:  I know trying to get that insignia to register properly can be quite difficult!!  I still don't feel comfortable masking and painting it in two parts.  The solution I currently use for this I actually got from my buddy who's in graphic design.  He mentioned to just cut out the stars and bars on the decal for the kit.  "How beautifully simple!!" I thought.  Just cut out the decals and slide them on.  No more worries about having a mis-register.  This way I can still paint the dark blue field and fade it however I like and polish it off with sharp, clean decals to fit on there.  Any stark white you want to take off can be done with some weathering.  Simple.  =]

Give it a try.

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Sunday, December 22, 2013 12:42 AM

Here's a few examples:


2013-05-21 16.09.52 by brittvallot, on Flickr


2013-06-26 13.10.33 by brittvallot, on Flickr


2013-07-21 16.01.05 by brittvallot, on Flickr


2013-01-23 13.24.01 by brittvallot, on Flickr


2013-02-01 13.21.17 by brittvallot, on Flickr

Here on Boyington's corsair you see part of the upper circle looks off.  This was done according to photos I worked off of to get all of the weathering right from the leaky fuel tank.  I noticed when they repainted this corsair for Boyington to use how they were off a bit on the insignia.  I wanted to repeat this of course, but I felt it was important to note here in this instance.  I'm real happy with tackling it this way, and I always enjoy paying it forward.  =]   Hope that's of some help.

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Sunday, December 22, 2013 1:07 PM

Hi Guy's

There's some nice looking work gathering here Yes

I've had a good days modelling still fettling plastic and fitting the resin cockpit and wing U/C bays on the Hun. It's all coming along very well so far with no real fit problems so am well pleased. I'll take a couple of pics a bit later. 

Can I make a comment on making your own stencils regarding the registering? I used to cut my own by hand before getting the Robo-Cut and solved this problem by 'building the stencil up' off the work and on a smooth background - either drawing it out to size on something like white faced particle board or placing a print out under some thin clear plastic.

For stars and bars make a stencil for the white background first and very slightly undersized to the finished outline then remove and place on some of that sticky label backing paper for the moment. To help handling it's best to keep the inner, removable, area in place at this stage by overlaying another piece of masking tape/ masking film before removing both layers from the cutting board.

Now cut another mask for the blue areas this time to the true lines and lay another piece of tape over it again before carefully removing it and storing on the backing paper.  Still keeping both layers together set the first mask into position on the model and gently remove the holding tape then 'weed' the inner areas to be painted white. Once dry remove the mask completely  (give the area a gentle rub with Micro Mesh 6000) and set the second mask over the white area ensuring that the outline is outside the white all round. Gently remove the top tape, then weed as before leaving the bars and star and paint the blue. If you need red bars then mask up with tape separately to put these in afterward.

Yes it is a bit time consuming but short of a vinyl cutter it's well worth the effort to get painted insignia if the aircraft is weathered to any degree.

Sorry I don't have any pics of this but I think you'll see what I mean. BTW I used the 40mm Tamiya tape to create such masks.

Hope that helps someone

regards - Tug

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Monday, December 23, 2013 7:01 AM

Tug, I gotta say...I felt my hand reaching up to face plant against my forehead as I was reading this.  It makes a lotta sense.  I'm still not sure how I didn't come up with something closer to this myself. lol  I'll definitely be giving this a try next time. =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

TUG
  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by TUG on Monday, December 23, 2013 3:32 PM

Hi  Guys,

Glad that was of use 'bv' - it's quite a reasonable way of making masks providing there are not too many varying curves - then it's down to how steady a hand you have.

Perhaps I should have pointed out, as it isn't quite clear, that the masking tape is laid over the drawn design first, the outlines cut out using the drawing beneath as a guide and the top layer of tape laid over before removing. Removing is a gentle process, peeling both tapes back on themselves and aiding the cut out part of the mask to remain in situ with something like a scalpel tip or toothpick.

Had a good session today and got most of the trimming of the kit and resin out of the way to the stage where painting of the resin parts can begin before a final fine tuning as they are finally assembled. Here are a few pics of the current situation.....

The exhaust is temp taped together and front and rear support established. The  'fixed' tailplane slots have been filled with Miliput. They will be drilled later for tubes to take rods embedded in the tailplanes to allow positioning.

The main undercarriage bay is a very good fit considering quite a lot of plastic has to be trimmed away. I used a rule to define the upper edge so as not to take this too far though it is actually hidden by the wing section from the top

Little blocks of plastic section are glued in to help re-locate the bay after painting.

Cockpit and front U/C bay also went in without too much hassle - steady removal of small amounts of plastic and/or resin and constant checking is in order for good fits - I've never had a bad fit with anything 'Aires' as yet. Incidentally it's a stunning cockpit rendition - can't wait to paint it - especially the seat Wink

Finally the wing part of the resin main U/C bay. Having just praised Aires, despite thinning these down until light could be seen through the resin, the wing either side just won't quite close. The top wing would need more thinning but I would rather leave as is - it will be totally hidden once the wing is installed. The 'wire' is 1/16 dia aluminium glued to the top wing held against something flat. This helps any slight curve straighten out when gluing top and lower surfaces.

Well, that's current state of play - next time should see some paint on. Back soon thenBig Smile

Regards - Tug

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Monday, December 23, 2013 6:31 PM

Looking great, Tug! those Aires sets are some stunning pieces of art indeed. I have their Flanker cockpit for my big Trumpy Su-27in my AM box and it looks awesome. One day I'll put my man-pants on and build that beast Wink

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Tuesday, December 24, 2013 2:37 PM

It is my joy and duty as this GBs host to wish all of you a very merry Christmas! I hope you're all having a great time with your loved ones! You are truly a great group of modellers and it is an honor to be hosting this group build!

"Frohe Weihnachten" from Austria!

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