1,000 Roadwheels - 2009

dupes wrote:

 Very nice work. The airbrush work is outstanding. Looking forward to seeing this one weathered. After seeing wing_nuts F1, and your Jagdpanzer, I may have to try one of the 1/72 scalers. I'm with thunderbolt on the airbrush, I use an old single action, mix the paint thin and run the pressure up. I'll give the low pressure tip a try.

  I might just have to try one of those tiny kits dupes. I have loads of 72nd German troops i don't know what to do with, at that scale you can make a decent dio. Thats some nice paint work there.

Double Post

Nice camo Dupes! 

I should have some loooooong overdue pix of my build up today if I can find the silly thing that plugs the camra into the computer!!

Thanks, Dupes, I'll give that a try. It'll certainly be more economical on the air, I remember my cylinder pressure going down alarmingly when I did the Tiger, and I have fineline spotting to do on the new StuG.

Here's a WIP -- I've spent an hour or two working on the zim and I'm very impressed with the Cavalier product. It's pretty easy to use! I applied it with gel superglue, and cut it to size with knife and rule.

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Not bad, I think this one will come together pretty well.

Cheers,

Mike

"HOLY BRAAAPPPP Batman!"  Jeez you guys are turning out some remarkable stuff.

Dupes glad I was able to inspire you.  Dunno what the 1/72 scale kits looked like inthe past but the new ones sure are sweet.  I have the new DML intial porduction Tiger I and from what I've seen in the 1st look inthe box it is simply awesome.  There may even be an unassigned, tiny suprise in the 251 GB soon

Hi Dupes, thanks for the vote of confidence. Yes, it's a generic, set CV-118, 1:35th scale standard pattern. You're right, some of the shapes are more complex than others, so I'm tackling them as plain geometry, keeping the numbers as simple as possible and cutting over the odds, then refining the fit. I think having a generic set in hand is a good idea even if using the pre-formed sets: if you mess up a piece, you can make your own and take another shot.

I have eight pieces to go on the portside, one or two at the bow, at least one at the stern and possibly more if I feel like being fancy, and three or more on the lower flank hull sides. I'm thinking about half a sheet should do the job, assuming minimum wastage, and that's good news as there were two sheets in the pack.

I'm feeling positive about my first attempt at zimmerit here!

Cheers,

Mike

Mike - this is your first attempt ever at zimm? Even MORE impressive!

Wingy - you should poke your head in here more often, my friend! Lots of chocolately Panzer IV goodness of late. Very interested to see this mini-surprise of yours...hopefully a variant we haven't seen yet? Bummer that Tiger Initial isn't a I-based chassis - can't wait to see it built up!

Hey dupes

I am finally back into the mode of building.  I would like to know if I can join back up in this GB?

I still have the tamiya H and just started it this last weekend.  Only sending you this now because I wanted to make sure I was going to finish this one.  Expecially after my /23 meet a smashing ending.

Kim

Thanks for letting me back in.  Besides I am going bonkers, I need something to occupy my time.  I am still laid off and my daughter is at daycare in the mornings.

Well here is what I am doing.  I have a Tamiya H, Lionroar PE set, Tamiya IV tool set, Echelon decal set, Armorscale barrel, Dragon early 40cm track set.'

The following photos show the progress of the PE work on the hull.  I do plan on using the schutzen.  It just looks cool.  Also with this PE set I decided to anneal the brass before.  It did make a diffence.  The PE bends alot easier.

Till the next update.  Man. I have my work cut out to keep with the quality of builds going in this GB.

Kim

 Hey Moose, Glad to see ya back! That PE is looking awesome, nice work there fella.

 Thunderbolt, The zimmerit looks great. Nice crisp edges. How is the CA to work with? I've used 5 min. epoxy with cavalier and had pretty good luck with it.

 Hey DetailFreak, I have a few odds and ends, like bricks and a few timbers strewn about the front and was considering using the "DetailFreak Mud Method" for the fine broken mortar and brick rubble. I plan on trying it out first on the base and see if I can get decent "Rubble Results", egads, that reminded me of Scooby Doo. I'm debating on using pigments to color the binder (Matte Medium/WhiteGlue). I still need a good red brick color though, any suggestions?

 I've gotten a rotten cold and just picked up a bit. The PE is just about finished, a tarp, crate, gerry cans, and a few tools have been added to give Ol'Stumpy a lived in look, just in case someone comes knockin'.

 WARNING! I'll try to get some photo's up, later.

Dupes -- yep, first time out. I've wanted to try it for years, I won their King Tiger (Porsche) set along with Tamiya's kit on eBay at least three years ago, maybe more, but never had the guts to do the modification on so expensive an item to replace if I screwed up. Big pieces probably get harder to control, but so far it's not exactly rocket science!

Mobious -- the CA is great! I'm not using the tube applicator, I unscrew the cap assembly completely and deposit a blob on a scrap of styrene, then use a piece of stripstock as a spatula to spread the glue evenly over the back of the resin. It grabs pretty quick, there's not the chance of slippage, really, but it turns out you can peel the stuff off again if after a few seconds you realise it's not right. The edges are coming out great, I agree! After I use a blade to cut away excess material, I make sure they're glued down right to the edge (brushing on thin CA in places where a second application is needed), then use a square rat-tail file to gently sand down the edge of one sheet so it pretty much fairs into the one on the complimentary surface.

I'm quite excited about the way it's going. I never trusted my dexterity to have a go at the raked putty method, so this seems to be an ideal alternative.

Cheers,

Mike

moose421 wrote:

The following photos show the progress of the PE work on the hull.  I do plan on using the schutzen.  It just looks cool.  Also with this PE set I decided to anneal the brass before.  It did make a diffence.  The PE bends alot easier.

Im envious of those who can do PE so cleanly.  I usually end up with gobs of dried glue and fingers stuck together when I work with those small fiddly parts.  Keep up the good work.

 Don

Thanks for the compliments guys.  Like T-bolt, my method of CA application is as follows.  I put a small blob on a plate or mixing board.  I then use a home made applicator to put a small amount on the piece that I am trying to glue together. 

My applicator started life as a awl from one of those cheep hobby knife sets.  It has a removable awl.  I replaced this with a large sewing needle.  I cut the eye end half way.  I then took my dremel and cut a notch in it ( where the eye was).  Also using the cutting disk, I carefully made the end a chisel point.  It works great, and the best part when there is to much build up. I simply take my trusty #11 knife and scrape the build up off. 

Kim

Mobious wrote:

Mobious: Sorry if I'm behind a bit but I made a note to come back to your build on this page and comment on it.  I really like this bad-boy!  Your camo' work is excellent, great shapes/texture and it appears you spent some time varying the wear and color on it!  Is that just washes or is there more too it? Well done!  She's a real looker, great subject too!

All right guys! heres my loooong overdue update.

I've weatherd it so all it needs are weels and tracks and maby a bit more sotage.

All ideas welcome!

 Hey guys, I'm with you on applying the CA. I use a scrap plastic bag as a palette and a piece of brass rod as an applicator for small parts. Usually I will have most of the parts prepped and dryfitted ready to assemble, and glue them all with one drop. I use epoxy almost the same way, except it needs mixed in order to activate them chemical reactions. Both the CA and epoxy have pros and cons to using. I used epoxy to fix the fenders and shurtzen brackets, mainly because it provides a stronger bond, provided the mating surfaces are clean. I tried soldering the straps for the skirts, but had all kinds of trouble once solder started flowing. I lost all my location marks. I ended up using epoxy to fix them to the back of the skirts as well. I still need to add bolt detail to the front side of the panels and I'm considering using Bronco injection plastic for that.

 I really had hoped to get more done this week on Ol'Stumpy. Did get the drybrushing done. I mixed Vallejo leather red with the chocolate brown as a medium highlight color to the brown areas, mixed Vallejo tan yellow with the "I think it's reflective green" for the green areas followed by an overall drybrushing with the tan yellow as final highlights. The biggest problem I have the Vallejo paints is the names rub off the bottles so easily, and within a few weeks I have colors I've no idea what their "Names" are.

 I did manage to start adding some stowage to the rear deck. The crate was built from layers of .080" and detailed with .010"x.080". The rolled tarp is once again epoxy putty. I allow the putty to set for an hour before working with it. I begin by rolling it out like pie dough, cut the size I need, roll it up, add cinches,folds and texture. I'm thinking of replacing the bricks up front with Verlinden products. the command arial is not working out and will be replaced.

 OBTW, I started the hunting/gathering process for a Tamiya PzIVH early. I'm really interested in seeing how your build progresses Moose.

 Hey stickman, I really like the smoke grenade launchers. That's something I've always liked about the early Tiger I's and StugIII's. The open turret bin is a nice touch. Lot's of room for personal gear there. One thing I noticed about the tie down rope is it is awful close to obstructing the RO's MG. If you're modeling a PzIVF2/G during the Kharkov Counteroffensive, an air recognition flag would be a logical addition. Not only for all the "Stuka/FW Strikes" that were called in, but on a couple of occassions, Fuel had to be airdropped to the spearhead units because of logistical problems caused by not only the large number of Soviet forces encircled but also, Old Mother Russia herself. A tow cable is always in need on the Eastern Front too. Wing_nut has a great tip on them earlier in the thread. I'm not sure what sizes of brass pipe he's using. I plan on trying that tip in the future though. The tow cables he's made are awesome, especially in 1/72 scale.

 Hey SMJ, Thanks for the positive comments, The colors were varied starting with the base "I think it's Sand Yellow" followed by the rest of the colors as they were applied. A light post shading of burnt umber was done after the camo colors were laid down. An oil pin wash of Burnt Umber followed by a dot wash was added after that. I've drybrushed everything with acrylics and am waiting to finalize the debris and stowage(and other odds & ends) before finishing with pastels. I plan on finishing the paint and starting on the base over the weekend. I just recieved my Tasca Command Aerial. That thing looks great. Looking forward to putting it in its place!

Mobious -- that Griz is looking amazing! You're doing a base as well? You application is nothing short of inspirational!

I've finished the zimmerit on the upper hull of my StuG IV, including the transom plate, and will move on to the lower hull flanks, 'chin' and tail. It looks like it'll take less than half a sheet to do the whole project, which is great economy.

I've been looking hard at Panzer IV hulls in the S/S book (the Kevin Hjermstad volume, not Panzer IV In Action) trying to verify some details. I'm following the article by Glen Philips in the May '91 FSM (pp34-37) and so far have done a fair job. But he introduced very prominent weld seams on the glacis, and I have not yet been able to find their like in any photos. Was the StuG engineered differently to the Panzer IV??? I didn't think so, in that area she seemed to be identical to the later marks of the tank and to the Jagdpanzer IV. However, I have also yet to get a clear look at the extra panel and bolt details he added inside the front fenders.

A bit of good news, she has the steel-pattern return rollers needed on the Itarleri Jagdpanzer (whose box art has them but the kit features the earlier Panzer IV rubber-rim return rollers). I'll mold off the Tamiya parts and cast them for the JgPz IV/L70.

Cheers,

TB379

Thanks for the ideas Mobious.

I like your idea for makeing the crate on your build.

 Hey Thunderbolt, the Baer isn't out of the woods yet. Thanks for the positive comments. The Stug IV I believe was built on a standard PZIV chassis, similar to the JagdPzIV L70(A). I only have a couple of photo's of the StugIV. The superstructure was the same as that used on the StugIII if I'm not mistaken. I really like the zimm you've done on this one. Inspiring me to try something like this on the JagdPzIV L/48. Maybe built as one from the 9SS fighting near Arnhem Sept. of 1944.

 Hey stickman, The crate thing is pretty straightforward, and will work for both wood and metal boxes. I plan on adding rope handles and some decals from the spares box. I was going to try an open top crate with some tools in it, but I sorta ran out of room on the engine deck. I didn't want it getting too cluttered, afterall, the only hatch for the crew is on the rear of the superstructure leading to the enging deck. One more reason I like the big slab hatches on the top of the early/mid versions of the Brummbar.   

 Mo

Mobious -- thanks for the observations, that backs up what I've seen so far too. I'll not bother with those prominent weld seams if there's no prominent validation for them -- that simplifies the build too.

Progress pic:

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The stern plate is not yet attached. Note the seven bolts to each side. I shaved them off with a knife before applying the zim, then simply glued them back on. Lost height on the bolts is accounted for by the thickness of the paste. A few went missing in the process and were replaced with slivers of .020" rod, which is not the right diameter, and they'll need filing down a lot too. I might replace them with something more accurate as I go.

The handle of the driver's hatch, molded flat, has been shaved off too. I'll drill receivers and drop in some brass wire.

Next I start zimming the lower hull, and I'll need to box in the right sponson and paint the interior, as I'm planning on having the loader's hatch open and the MG-42 mounted, possibly even with the figure in the hatch, which will be the first figure I've taken a shot at in years.

Cheers,

Mike

MOBIOUS:my apologies for not responding sooner.first of all,are you looking for a means to color or tint a wet mixture to resemblered mud or some dry powder to make cement dust?i guess your question seemed vague to me.and by the way your brummbar looks very good so far.THUNDERBOLT:that stug IV is looking pretty awesome as well.i have several photos i will try to put up of some stug IV's.some destroyed ,some not.just like to add that to date this is one of the best group builds going in the armor venue.haven't had much build time as the spring mobilization of our gangs has been under way,and it seems we have to be in ten places at one time.

Thunderbolt.... Nice zim so far it looks good.

 Hey Thunderbolt,The zimm has to be one of the cleanest apps I've seen. Very nice job. It's going to look great with paint.

 Hey detailfreak, I was planning on using the mud method from your PzIV build to add the fine bits of rubble. I was going to try it on the base first ,to see how it would work out. I started a base using the build board. I decided to use a larger plaque because of the lack of space. I wanted to add a few urban details, not a dio, just a display base. No matter how I work this one it ends up short.

Hey Dupes

I finally started on the Pz Iv DAK F1.  Will post pics as soon as my batteries recharge for my camera. Got a little behind, trying to finish up my Lend Lease GB. Got slowed down by puting my foot through my dining room ceiling. Long story!!!! It is now fixed and I have started back after getting some motivation back also.

Bushi

Soooo many great builds going on right now! So far this GB has exceeded my expectations entirely...and there's still 8 MONTHS to go!!!

Will have some update pics on my mini-jagdpanzer tomorrow - may be able to wrap her up tonight.