Ma.K Group Build 8/2010-8/2011

Gunner,

 A Krote! EXCELLENT! And the weld beads will add a lot to that one. Then a copter based project too? This will be cool!

I look forward to them!

Thanks Mr. Squid for the weld bead tip, just the sort of stuff we need to take these little jewels to the next level.  I use your method for fine bead work, I used a different method on the Krote for heavy handed armor tuff weld using Squadron Green Putty mixed w/Testors Cement.  I put about a 1/4 of a bottle of liquid cement into a paint mix jar w/lid, squeeze a generous amount of putty into glue, stir well, dip out a small amount into a paint palette and transfer dab by dab, when it starts to set off, add detail with the back of a knife blade.  Place the lid on the jar and you have liquid putty for future use.  Hey what do you think Mr. Surface putty is?  Look forward to more of this build MrSquid2U.

the Gunp

Das Grosse Toad, or for those who do not speak German, The Big Frog:  Started this a couple weeks ago and worked on some today.  This will be my 1st Ma.K walker.  In the back ground is something I played with today as well,  the beginnings of a Skin Head using a 1/48th Academy Hughes 500D body, cut, chopped, filled sanded and sanded to get to this shape. I try as I might to work on other subjects, but I seem to go right back to the Ma.K models as a favorite subject for building right now.  Just can't not get enough of the stuff.  I hope to use the mechanic in a display w/the Krote!  This will also be a 1st as well.

Added heavy weld marks, I like the look of on a Heavy Hitter.

And the old school way of showing weld beads.

I made sure to leave a gap for the bead to nestle in. Real world heavy welds are sunk into troughs created by beveling or the angle at which objects rest together for better penetration anyways.

First I lay a bead of liquid cement.


Then lay in some styrene stock.

Recoat the stock with more liquid cement.

Wait five or ten minutes (it varies) until it has softened and then work my way down the bead with a pointed object to leave the 'pattern'. That's it, let it dry or look at it again in awhile and touch it up- the styrene will be softened for a good amount of time.

Just in case anyone finds this interesting or helpful???

Working on fleshing out the suspension-

More details,

The A-arm supports start as styrene cut to width and then two different diameter holes hogged out by Dremel.




They sit upon two different ledges on the backbone- those center humps. Know where the hump came from- a lil gumball machine container cap. It's the red plastic piece visible there. It was simply pressed down into the Sculpy putty prior to baking. That caused the two ledges and only later as I was staring at em did I think to make a saddle mount for the A-Arms.

Here's what it takes for the upper control arm-




Here's some components for the driveshafts and CV joints. That's standard electrical shrink wrap tubing which mimics the CV covers.

After the "A-Arm platforms" are squared up I then bevel the outer edges to receive the tubing running the length which later accept the arms.



Once the tubing is in place I re-contour the pedastals.

From front to rear are a completed saddle mount, a roughed in one and then the rawest form- two squares waiting.

I hope that might help someone in a similar situation to attack their target!

FWIW

Further suspension progress.

Yeah, got sidetracked with "life". But, should have something for you soon.

No up-date from Squidward??????????today is a sad day w/o a post from U buddy.

Just keeps getting better.

Starting on the A-arms.

^^^

If it's not cured at all you can vigorously wipe at it with 90% Isopropryl (sp?) alcohol and with a toothbrush too. If it's too dry for that you can just dig at it with something blunt and try not to gouge the plastic kit parts. The alcohol usually won't hurt the plastic at all if it does work on the putty. I've got a nylon "wheel" for my Dremel- think of a 'wire wheel' but with nylon bristles. As long as you don't overheat against the plastic it will remove gummy stuff (putty) without grinding into plastic. Last resort is scrape then sand.

No matter what it won't exactly be fun.

Well Ive got the Milliput scraped out of the the parts. It was strange, it was half dry and half not. Had almost taken on a sand texture. Gonna let the parts set over night then give it another try this weekend. Is there anything I can use to clean the residue thats lefts out of the parts?

modelbuilder

Well Ive encountered my first problem with this kit. Several of the parts that I filled with Milliput have dried hard but others seem to have not dried at all. Only thing I can think of to do is dig it out and try again. Any suggestions?

DANG! Miliput strikes again?

That some of it dried hard almost suggests that you had other areas that weren't mixed well prior to application? If that is the case then you might carefully scrape away the bad areas and try a lil more as filler for those spots?

BUT- IMHO Miliput stories are seeming to grow and it did happen to me- so I'd scrape away what is tacky and carefully sand away what is dry. Then start over with another putty that you are comfortable with. Many people like Aves and I've had good luck with Squadron brand.

Let some other folks chime in and I hope you come up something and don't lose any enthusiasm for your build.

Good Luck Now!

Well Ive encountered my first problem with this kit. Several of the parts that I filled with Milliput have dried hard but others seem to have not dried at all. Only thing I can think of to do is dig it out and try again. Any suggestions?

Klik

Reporting for duty, Sir!

Oh, I been just lurking in the shadows, working on a kit here and there, and trying to finish up my Fireballs and Lunadiver.

Keeping up the good work y'all

Ahhhh another shadow dweller. The shadows are dark and safe. We venture into the light only every so often.

Reporting for duty, Sir!

Oh, I been just lurking in the shadows, working on a kit here and there, and trying to finish up my Fireballs and Lunadiver.

Keeping up the good work y'all

A shout out too all my missing buddies:

havoc, man where U @, miss my Island Ma.k'r and where is that Snake Eye @????????  Com'on back, we miss ya.

Mad-Modeler, the last time I heard from you was 2 months ago and U took the bull by the horns announced a triple lindy, miss U buddy, just a single would be cool.

Ti4019. you tease, you post a Konrad start and then Houdini, would sure like to see ya post again friend, I want bite ya, well maybe a small bite

Klik, wish you would stop by again too.

Alright enough butt kiss'in, look f/ea one of ya to report for duty ASAP!

Cosmic J

Gunpla Master:

I would just like to say thanks to all those who have and are apart of this GB, we have some of the most talented individuals I have had the pleasure to work with and know.  So again, to all you who have helped to make this a real GB thanks, now shoot me for all that mushy garble! 

 

LoL! You flatterer. Yes, we love you too.

And thanks for starting this GB in the first place. I probably wouldn't have started this kit otherwise, and I've been rather enjoying it.

 

Just winging it!!!!!!!!  Come on dude, you are a master and I sure would not call what you are doing winging it.  I am just in awe every time you post, which I might add is a glorious everyday.  I run to the computer to see what little trick you have pulled out of your hat next.  There are many here with your skills and I am enjoying your's right now

What impresses me the most, this is not a kit, but a kit bash to build a specific Kow design, that is beyond just winging it

And the wheels were the bomb, can not wait to see this puppy setting on'em.  You know we have our ways of getting information from your brain, beware, be very aware

Needing attachment points for the lower control arms came up with a platform that fits the backbone already in place. Added some weld beads since this is where the detailing will start coming out. No pre-planning here, just winging it!

Gunpla Master

I would just like to say thanks to all those who have and are apart of this GB, we have some of the most talented individuals I have had the pleasure to work with and know.  So again, to all you who have helped to make this a real GB thanks, now shoot me for all that mushy garble! 

LoL! You flatterer. Yes, we love you too.

And thanks for starting this GB in the first place. I probably wouldn't have started this kit otherwise, and I've been rather enjoying it.

modelbuilder

Well Ive lurked in the shadows long enough, time to get in this thing. So here is what I am working. A WAVE/3Q Melusine. This is my first MaK. I dont have much done so far, mainly got the arm and leg segment together and ready to be filled with Milliput that I picked up at Hobby Lobby. I also picked up some metal rod. I am going to sculpt the joints. Wondering if I will have enough Milliput to fill the cavities and sculpt the joints. Speaking of which, should the joint between the upper leg and waist joint be sculpted or left as is.

Excellent, and good to see you! I've got a Mel in the stash, so I'm interested in seeing how this build goes.

Miliput usually does the trick, but recently I've switched over to Aves Apoxy Sculpt. It gives me a little less hassle than the Miliput did. Could be I just had a bad batch, but there you go.

You should easily have enough to fill the limbs - it takes less than it seems like it would. I would echo the sentiments about testing the Miliput before comiting it to the model - just mix up a small amount and form it into a marble, then see how (or if) it dries. You can also practice sculpting it while it's wet and carving it when it's dry.

For wire, I would recommend coreless solder - brass rod can be a bit too stiff. It flexes well enough to let you get the model in position w/o needing pliers or possibly damaging the kit parts.

Looking forward to your work.

Looking good, Mr Squid. I agree about the drivetrain - the MaK vehicles all seem to have a body consisting of smoothly curved, organic looking hulls, w/ hard angular mechanical looking engine parts sticking off them. Keep up the good work!

And here are the four tie downs sunk into the bed and still operable.

Gunpla Master

I would just like to say thanks to all those who have and are apart of this GB, we have some of the most talented individuals I have had the pleasure to work with and know.  So again, to all you who have helped to make this a real GB thanks, now shoot me for all that mushy garble! 

Here, grab the blindfold and then up against the wall!

I'd like to extend my thanks to you though. The involvement and tone set by the "host" of a GB can go miles in how folks feel as they participate.

Thanks for the cozy, friendly corner of this hobby in which we congregate!

I would just like to say thanks to all those who have and are apart of this GB, we have some of the most talented individuals I have had the pleasure to work with and know.  So again, to all you who have helped to make this a real GB thanks, now shoot me for all that mushy garble! 

MrSquid2U

ModelBuilder,

 Be carefil with that Miliput! I had used it many times and actually liked it a lot. This time it never, ever, never, cured. But, I will say it was probably old in the box (from Hobby Lobby!) Just make sure it seems pliable and kneads easily, mixes well.

 Unless they sell real small boxes that I've never seen- you'll have more than enough!

 

Welcome to the GB!

Mr Squid, U'r killing me.  Are you a Model Maker for the Movies and slipped in on us

ModelBuilder,

 Be carefil with that Miliput! I had used it many times and actually liked it a lot. This time it never, ever, never, cured. But, I will say it was probably old in the box (from Hobby Lobby!) Just make sure it seems pliable and kneads easily, mixes well.

 Unless they sell real small boxes that I've never seen- you'll have more than enough!

Welcome to the GB!

Well Ive lurked in the shadows long enough, time to get in this thing. So here is what I am working. A WAVE/3Q Melusine. This is my first MaK. I dont have much done so far, mainly got the arm and leg segment together and ready to be filled with Milliput that I picked up at Hobby Lobby. I also picked up some metal rod. I am going to sculpt the joints. Wondering if I will have enough Milliput to fill the cavities and sculpt the joints. Speaking of which, should the joint between the upper leg and waist joint be sculpted or left as is.