Spitfire GB

JOE RIX

Satch, You have done a really magnificant job on your Spit. Me Like! Would you mind sharing what paints  and what kind of weathering techniques you used?

                                             Joe

I started with the new Valejo primers.  Surface primer for the base and the black for the pre-shaded panel lines.  Then it was MM enamel for the camo colors.  Klear Kote laquer gloss and flat for the coats.  I used an acrylic oily wash for more panel line definition  between the clear coats.  A couple of dabs of an enamel oily wash on the POL caps.  To finish it off some pastel chalk to fade the primary colors. 

Nothing special, just basic paints and techniques.  Thanks all for the kind words.  Now I have to get back to work and finish the Mk V.

Satch

Satch - EXCELLENT job on that IX! Makes me want to go pick up Tamiya's big IX to go with my VIII. Heck...I've already got the Quickboost exhaust stubs (didn't realize until after I picked them up that the VIII didn't use the ovals...doh!), and they'll have to go somewhere, right?

Haven't had too much to report on the Spit lately since I'm been NMFing the Mustang, but last night I FINALLY primed the firewall, engine mounts, air filter, and interior of the cowl panels. I swear, the engine assembly is more involved than most kits I've built. Tonight they'll be getting their coat of RAF interior green, then I can really start having fun.

After a brief test-fit of the cowl panels, I think I'll almost definitely end up leaving them off altogether. Granted the fit's not definite yet, since the engine assembly isn't glued down and the outer framing is still absent, but it's sloppier than I expected.

Also got a small start on weathering up the Merlin proper last night...lots more to do though.

Doog, that Merlin is really coming along!

Got a coat of future on my Spit tonight and was looking at the decal options.  Looking at the markings for No. 243 Squadron SN-M I noticed something different.  On the left side of the aircraft they show the squadron identifier SN by the cockpit and the aircraft identifier M towards the tail  On the right side of the aircraft they show the SN by the tail and the M by the cockpit.  Was this normal for some squadrons or something seen early in the war?

Mike

Mike I'm happy to be proven wrong (this is a common occurrence btw) but I believe this is standard.  I have a lot of Spits in my collection that have squadron & id codes exactly as you describe.

Doog, I'll be interested to see just how well those cowl panels fit as I have the Mk.VIII as well and had planned on doing her with the cowl fitted on one side to show off the sharks mouth decals and removed on the othe to show off the engine.

Cheers

Thanks for the info Darren!

Think you're right about the codes, Darren. Not sure about later marks, but I've definitely seen that marking pattern on early-war Spits.

IIRC, the only reason the Americans did different was that the width of the national insignia and impossibility of putting the two letters aft.

Lots of progress on the Spit last night...

Finally buckled down and did the putty work. There's really not much at all, mostly of my own making in dragging the Touch-n-Flow across the fuselage, wings, etc. 

Airbrushed the framing and other bits RAF interior green. I can now start to assemble the mount and overall engine assembly!

Got mot of the way there with the engine. Still want to go back and add grease and oil staining, some gunk buildup here and there. The pictures I've seen of Fargo Express show a battered and weathered Spit, and just looking at the outside condition, I have to imagine the engine was far from spit-polished.

Also decided to not push the gizmology/wiring issue this time around. Should have drilled holes and planned better on that front. Now it's just a pain! But knowing how this one fits together and where the opportunities lie will make the next big Merlin I build (Tamiya uses the exact same H sprue in the P-51) a walk in the park!

Not quite there yet, but I imagine I could start priming the main aircraft as soon as this evening.

That's really looking good Doogs!  Can't wait to see how it turns out.

Mike

Buckeye

Doog, that Merlin is really coming along!

 

Got a coat of future on my Spit tonight and was looking at the decal options.  Looking at the markings for No. 243 Squadron SN-M I noticed something different.  On the left side of the aircraft they show the squadron identifier SN by the cockpit and the aircraft identifier M towards the tail  On the right side of the aircraft they show the SN by the tail and the M by the cockpit.  Was this normal for some squadrons or something seen early in the war?

Mike

My take on the code sequence is that it is on a case by case basis, and for many aircraft the way it was done on the right side is not known.  It was more common in my opinion for two letters, the roundel, and then the 3rd letter.  I hate doing it the other way because it gets pretty crowded.

So several months ago I picked up an Eduard mask for the Spit VIII, not realizing or forgetting or such that Tamiya already included masks with the kit.

Still, you have to cut theirs out, so I busted Eduard's out first. Windscreen and rear glass? Golden. 

But I'm pretty sure they designed the mask for the Malcolm hood blindfolded or something. Just atrocious. I tried different angles, even switched and tried different pieces of the masks in different parts of the canopy and no, it was just awful. Finally stripped it off and used the kit mask for the hood. Not perfect, but much better.

Lesson: It's difficult to build masks for Malcolm hoods.

Also realized last night that I don't even have the decal sheet for the aircraft I'm building. Have it in 1/48, just not 1/32. Awesome!

 Alright, the cockpit is pretty much completed.  As I stated earlier this is my first experience with a PE detail set. I have to say masking with silly putty ain't got nothing on the patience required to work with PE. Although some of it may not be exactly be straight  I am pleased with the enhancement it adds to the cockpit. Most of all is I got a bend in my learning curve.  MM enamels were used throughout, RAF interior green and rust for the seat. A sludge wash of Tamiya black was applied then drybrushed with a lightened shade of interior green. This was followed with detailing with pastels and scuffing with a silver pencil. Well on to slapping the fuselage halves together.

              Thanks For Looking, Joe

DoogsATX

Also realized last night that I don't even have the decal sheet for the aircraft I'm building. Have it in 1/48, just not 1/32. Awesome!

Doogs I have the Aces of the Empire decal sheet which I only picked up for Caldwells & Gibbs Mk.VIIIs.  If there is anything else you fancy from the sheet PM me and I send the decals to you.

Cheers

Joe, looks like you are off to a great start there.

Mike

Wow that's a really nice looking front office Joe, very nice combo of weathering, styrene & PE.

One thing I did notice is that the pilots seat doesn't appear to have the lap belts fitted, did you put them on after these photos were taken?

Cheers

Thanks everyone. Nice notice there Darren, but they are actually on there it's just that my camera angle was such that it didn't capture them. Got the fuselage halves together last night.

                  Joe

The rule on the squadron codes were only that the roundel was between the squadron code and the aircraft code; e.g. XY roundel Z OR Z roundel XY.  Typically a squadron was consistent with their aircraft, so if you can find a photo of another aircraft in the squadron for the opposite side you have, then you're probability of getting it right goes WAY up. There are exceptions but they're rare.

Of course, unless someone produces a photo of both sides, you get to choose and nobody can tell you you're wrong. 

Tim

I was really enjoying this build until I got to the decals.  After a coat of future I started applying the decals, usually my favorite part, and they have been fighting me every step of the way.  I've never had so much trouble with silvering and getting them to lay flat over blisters and bumps.  The bottom part of the wing is so irregular that after trying to get the roundels to lay flat they are no longer round.  I've had to quit hitting some of the decals with micro-sol because they are no longer drying smooth.  Very frustrating.  Hopefully another coat of future will help before weathering.  They could look much worse but not what I was hoping for.

Mike

I don't use Future before decals anymore. I was finding the Microsol was eating through and reacting badly when especially difficult decals had to be worked into the surface. I just make sure I have a glossy finish with a clear coat before hand.

Cheers

Casper the Chihuahua

I don't use Future before decals anymore. I was finding the Microsol was eating through and reacting badly when especially difficult decals had to be worked into the surface. I just make sure I have a glossy finish with a clear coat before hand.

Cheers

Had the exact same problem with my Mossie a few months back. Ate through the Future and the Future-thinned Vallejo underneath. Awesome. Had to strip and repaint that section. Fortunately...all-black is easy to repaint!

Had much better luck with Alclad, Tamiya and Testors clears recently.

Ive never had too big of a problem with future, Biggest thing has been some fogging from the decal solvent. Just needed to put some more future on it and problem solved.

Inching closer to finishing up the Merlin. Test-fitted the outer frame panels and, everything lines up beautifully. Additional weathering still remains to be done, attaching the exhaust stacks, etc, but the end is in sight on this part of the build.

Now if it would just stop being so ******** humid so I could paint.

ww2psycho

Ive never had too big of a problem with future, Biggest thing has been some fogging from the decal solvent. Just needed to put some more future on it and problem solved.

 

I'll brush a little on the bad spots and hopefully the second airbrushed coat will help before weathering.  I think the biggest problem was the thickness of some of the decals.  Never had problems like this before.

Mike

I've been using Future/Klear for years and never had a problem.  I spray it over the camo in a light coat, then after an hour spray a thicker coat.  Once it has the sheen I'm looking for (the matte is all gone) I let it sit for at least 3 days to fully cure. 

I've put on over enamels, acrylics, and both enamel/acrylic schemes.  Key is letting the paint/Future fully cure.

I've used Micro-Sol, Micro-Set, Solvaset and Daco Products' strong (red label).  I've even used Future as a decal setting solution but it looked overly thick.  Never had any problems, but then I lightly brush on the setting solution.  I don't pool it or lay it on heavy as I've had that destroy the decal.

Tim

Greenshirt

I've been using Future/Klear for years and never had a problem.  I spray it over the camo in a light coat, then after an hour spray a thicker coat.  Once it has the sheen I'm looking for (the matte is all gone) I let it sit for at least 3 days to fully cure. 

I've put on over enamels, acrylics, and both enamel/acrylic schemes.  Key is letting the paint/Future fully cure.

I've used Micro-Sol, Micro-Set, Solvaset and Daco Products' strong (red label).  I've even used Future as a decal setting solution but it looked overly thick.  Never had any problems, but then I lightly brush on the setting solution.  I don't pool it or lay it on heavy as I've had that destroy the decal.

Tim

I think it goes to show the variability of experiences we can have. I know my Mossie had at least two days for paint curing and two days for Future curing as I was working on other projects as well, and had time to let it cool for a little bit. But the decals I was using were a particularly awful set from Decals Carpena that DID NOT want to settle down, so it was kind of a setting solution fest. Still...after it got through the Future, it tore through the Future-thinned Vallejo in no time. Never did touch the MM enamel primer underneath.

This was the first time I've only waited 24 hours after applying the Future.  Usually it's several days before I get back to a model.  The biggest problem this time with the roundels I think was the thickness of the decals.

Mike

For some reason it seems most roundels I've encountered have been thick. Not sure what the deal is there. Well, in one case they were Tamiya decals, so that makes sense. But even the excellent Wingnut Wings cockades had some undue heft to them. Maybe just having to throw that much color?

And...the Merlin's done!

If I have one gripe about this engine, it's the rather shoddy provisions given for the exhaust attachment. Very shallow stubs, makes alignment a real bear. But the rest is pure gold.

The Merlin itself was painted up in semi-gloss black. Support frames, etc were RAF Interior Green. Metal bits were Alclad Aluminum over Tamiya AS-12. Weathering was done with a mix of a raw umber oil wash and MIG pigment (Black, Burnt Steel Blue, Europe Dust, Russian Earth, Africa Earth and Light Rust), with a few streaks of MIG's grease/oil stain thrown in for messiness. From the one pic I have, "Fargo Express" looks fairly weatherbeaten, hence the condition of the engine.

Have all of the small bits and the underside of the Spit primed - and tomorrow morning I'll be taking advantage of my unemployment to prime the upper surfaces in the morning, when it should be a freezing 85-90 degress (it was still 96 as of 10:30 tonight, ugh...). Hopefully moving into real paint later in the week...

That engine compartment is awesome!  Love the weathering on the exhaust stacks.

Mike

DoogsATX

I love the Dirty Merlin & would love to name a band after it!

VanceCrozier

 

DoogsATX:

 

 

 

I love the Dirty Merlin & would love to name a band after it!

Dirty Merlin and the Rotol Four?