B-36 Peacemaker Group Build

So here we go, I`m finally going to start that base build RB-36 that I have been saying for a couple of years to get a feel for this kit. This will be a basic "stock build" with nothing elaborate, and will only use parts that came with the kit - other than decals. No seem filling, no expensive painting, and no fixing of "errors" ( other than minor ones such as rounding the prop blades ) made by the manufacturer.

I`ll be building RB-36E serial number 44-92020 which began life as a B-36A.  This was the 19th B-36 frame built by Convair, and the 17th Production B-36 produced. It was  delivered to the Air Force in Sep `48 . In 1950, this craft was returned to Convair`s Ft Worth plant where it was largely disassembled and "remanufactured" into an RB-36. Since it was a conversion of an "A" model over to an RB it was classified as an "E" instead of a "D" which was orignally build as an RB. Most "B" models were sent to Convair`s facility in San Diego to undergo this same conversion, due to Ft Worth being at max production,  where they were converted over to the full "D" standard. Later this craft was updated to a class II Featherweight standard and remained in service with the 5th Strategic Reconnaissance Wing at Travis AFB until it`s retirement  in 1956. It was as part of the first B-36`s to be retired and sent to Davis Monthan for scrapping and reclaimation. A temporary dip in the economy which caused funding delays in B-52 procurments, and the need to have spare B-36 parts because they were needed for a few more years of service,  saved the eventual scrapping of this craft until late in Fiscal Year 1957 cycle. 

With the history out of the way, lets take a look at the kit being used.

I selected a 1989 kit I picked up at a yard sale for $10 ---- Yes Reasoned -- $10!

It`s a good price, but as you can see the stock decals are yellowed & trashed due to age and improper storage.

Oh well, thankfully Warbirds has the replacement on one of their sheets

Moving right along into the physical inspection of the nearly 25 year old kit.

Only One prop is broken..... Not bad.

These little guys were so happy to be free they had themselves a breakdance party!

Soon they will join their comrads and be on their way to Teutonic222.

Next session: Adding support to the wing spar

$10!  Even I wouldn't pass that up……… I think. 

I see you got one of those two bladed props there laj, that will make an interesting fix, will be watching with great interest.

Reasoned

$10!  Even I wouldn't pass that up……… I think. 

I see you got one of those two bladed props there laj, that will make an interesting fix, will be watching with great interest.

Since I have to round the blades, I`ll very delicately round the square tip of the broken blade before taking some packing styrophone sheets to rig up some sort of jig to hold it in place when I re-glue it back to the prop.

That sounds too hard....... I know an easier way!

I have about  12-15 of those kits ranging from unopened & pristine to someone else`s partially built one that is now nothing more than spare parts stashed off in a closet.  Since some kits will be built without the props. I think I *MIGHT* be able to find a spare in one of those kits 

Speaking of "Rounding the Prop tips", there was a question in my in box about what did that mean.

As you notice in the kit that the Props have square tipped blades. When the B-36 program was begun, the early ones produced had rounded blades as such:

Story also done by the local CBS station on this:

http://dfw.cbslocal.com/video/6124491-through-the-lens-museum-moves-b-36-bomber/

Later as the program developed and advanced, the props were changed to the square design for better efficiency. You can get the reasons for the switch explained in greater detail in the first few minutes of the dedication ceremony above. As the A`s & B`s were converted over to RB-36 D`s & E`s, they retained their round tips. The YB-36 was the first early craft to be converted to RB-36E, and from this picture taken in the early 1960`s when it was on display outside at the old National Museum of the AF, you can see this better

Look Reasoned... It`s a Luftwaffe plane!

Another question I have been asked is why was there never a B-36C?

Simple answer... It never made it past the concept stage. The C was going to be test to see how the B-36 would do if it was changed from pusher engines to traditional props in the front. An idea being advanced was figuring out had to rig it with turbo props ( much like the TU-95 later would have ), but with the Jet bombers in research, and Convair having to dedicate most of it`s resources into getting the B-36 as produced into full production... the idea was scrapped

I agree. I'm already abandoning that idea. Plus, I don't think there is a clean way of opening the other landing gear bay door (the one that closes once the gear is down). If I can't open that bay (which is currently molded), no one would see the crew man inside the wing kicking the gear down anyway. Ah, to dream.

Thanks for the new crew members. I'll try to keep their drinking to a minimum pre-flight.

Hey, has anyone tried PropBlur or the clear disks with airbrushed prop blur on them. Since I'll be hanging mine up coming in for a landing, I'm considering a prop blur. Just don't know if it's worth the effort. PropBlur has cost considerations. Or I can make my own clear disks and either inkjet print the prop blur or airbrush it. I don't know if it's really that big a deal for an aircraft hanging in my office.

I sent an email to Chris at Click2detail regarding producing blister window replacements for B-36J-III (Featherweight IIIs). I decided I want to blank out the top 4 blisters with disks and square windows and leave the lower blisters to build it as it came from the factory. Haven't come up with a good way to make the round and slighly bowed panels. I sent a sketch to Chris and await an answer. If I ever figure out how to post pictures, I'll post my drawing to (it isn't to scale, but gives a general idea of the concept).

Here goes another photo upload attempt. I'll try one by just including the link.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25391811@N02/10812384474/sizes/l/

Okay, pasting the link doesn't work. Now I'll try (again) the "insert  image" method again that I have tried two or three times before.

I'm stumped about the photo pasting. I'm a computer power user and I am still not understanding why this doesn't work. I haven't tried Photo Bucket yet, only because I didn't need yet another account for something. I figured since some of you have good experience with Flickr it should work. Guess I'll try Photo Bucket tomorrow when I less inclined to throw a rock at my computer right now.

Has anyone tried to make the Featherweight III blister window replacements?

Wow Teut, it's been a while since I posted a pic from my Flickr Acct, let me try again as I explained and see if it works…..

Seems okay.  As I said, I use a Mac and just "drag" the picture (in the large 1028 format) from Flickr into the "image url box" by keeping both windows open, not sure why you're having problems.

BTW, I'm building mine wheels down in flight also (so I can hang it from my son's BR ceiling) but I think I'm just going to leave the props as is.

Teutonic222

I agree. I'm already abandoning that idea. Plus, I don't think there is a clean way of opening the other landing gear bay door (the one that closes once the gear is down). If I can't open that bay (which is currently molded), no one would see the crew man inside the wing kicking the gear down anyway. Ah, to dream.

I`m sure it could be done, you might have to use the cut out part as a mold for a cast to make your own door.

Watch this video of the door in question ( starting at 4:08 ) how it operates on landing gear retraction after take off. It might give you some ideas:

Teutonic222

Has anyone tried to make the Featherweight III blister window replacements?

Outside of having Chris make them.....

Using a thicker grade poster board, or hand carving them out of some sort of soft material is about as far as my thinking takes me.

Say la, that Ju 88 next to the B-36 just shows why Germany had to fly so many sorties during the BoB to do much damage.  I wonder how many Ju 88's it took to match the payload of one B-36?

Reasoned

Say la, that Ju 88 next to the B-36 just shows why Germany had to fly so many sorties during the BoB to do much damage.  I wonder how many Ju 88's it took to match the payload of one B-36?

Well, lets see......

Reasoned

Say la, that Ju 88 next to the B-36 just shows why Germany had to fly so many sorties during the BoB to do much damage.

Do much damage? They had a hard time getting through in the first place.... When they did..... They inflicted little more damage than a "scratch" 

Hey Men!  I`ve been lurking around this thread for a while (mainly because I`m too chicken to start my own build) and you guys are doing some great work on a tough kit. 

About "prop blurr"....I remember seeing a PE version of them somewhere.....anyone else? 

Len

Hello Troublemaker. I think you are talking about PropBlur. Just Google the name "PropBlur" and it will come up.

Regarding Featherweight windows, I've contemplated pushing Sculpey Clay through the blister ports to extrude the proper size diameter, slicing it off and smoothing the top to match the fuselage contour, then pressing a piece of wood or plastic into the clay to indent a window. Bake as directed. Add frosting and eat. Serves four. Oh, woops. Bake, sand and paint. Then add Model Master Window Maker.

Teutonic222

Hello Troublemaker. I think you are talking about PropBlur. Just Google the name "PropBlur" and it will come up.

troublemaker66

Teutonic222

Hello Troublemaker. I think you are talking about PropBlur. Just Google the name "PropBlur" and it will come up.

Ok....thought there were 2 types...plastic and PE....will look it up...thanks

Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! PE! Count me in!

That will put some BANG! in your build!

troublemaker66

Hey Men!  I`ve been lurking around this thread for a while (mainly because I`m too chicken to start my own build) and you guys are doing some great work on a tough kit. 

About "prop blurr"....I remember seeing a PE version of them somewhere.....anyone else? 

Len

Well hello stranger, LTNS!

The build I am going to do first is a basic build... No elaborate stuff, no elaborate painting, or major mods. Hopefully that will encourage some that a "good build" can still be made with this kit without trying to make it a blue ribbon show piece at the local builders meet. 

Grab a kit and join in.... If you cant find one..... I`ll send you one for just the shipping cost

There, now you have no excuses. 

lajntx

troublemaker66

Hey Men!  I`ve been lurking around this thread for a while (mainly because I`m too chicken to start my own build) and you guys are doing some great work on a tough kit. 

About "prop blurr"....I remember seeing a PE version of them somewhere.....anyone else? 

Len

Well hello stranger, LTNS!

The build I am going to do first is a basic build... No elaborate stuff, no elaborate painting, or major mods. Hopefully that will encourage some that a "good build" can still be made with this kit without trying to make it a blue ribbon show piece at the local builders meet. 

Grab a kit and join in.... If you cant find one..... I`ll send you one for just the shipping cost

There, now you have no excuses. 

Len

Hi Teutonic 22, Look at my previous post where I cut out some blister plugs useing a .44 caliber empty cartridge case. As for shape try warming up some card stock and forming it over a piece of abs pipe that's close in diameter and once glued in place, sand to the fuselage contour.

So tonight the process begins with re-enforcing the wing spar, and inspecting the fuselage for the usual warpage that goes along with being stuck in a box for 25 years.

Just about anything will work to re-enforce the spar, and I generally chose what I have about the house. In this case its #2 pencils which around here seem to multiply like rabbits. I first remove the erasers ( will re-use them much later after applying the shiny chrome paint to replicate aluminum to dull the paint down ), and then cut to them size to fit inside the spar. Finally liberally apply some sort of poxy to hold them in place.

Next moving on to the fuselage to asses the warpage. This kit is a prime example of the 3 places where some work will be needed to ensure a proper fit later on. The 3 places I have noticed that warpage tends to occur is:

The seem along the top of the fuseage between the wings and the tail

The seem along the bottom of the fuselage near the end

And finally:

The very front on both the top and bottom. This one isnt too bad, but it makes up for it in that if you notice the piece to the left of where the front turrent will be is bent in...... 

Im going to dry fit both halves together tightly with some electrical tape and let that sit for a couple of weeks to bend those issues back into place. As for the bent item.... That will take a little more effort. 

Meanwhile, I`ll be starting on the cockpit decks and detailing those, as well as reshaping the prop tips to the curved look.

PS.... Who borrowed my electrical tape and didnt return it? Was it you Reasoned? 

Nope, I only use Duct tape.

Hello Magoo. Thanks for the idea. However I HAVE SUCCESS!

i just got an email from Chris at Click2detail. He is going to produce the Featherweight III blister windows and says he should have them in about 2 weeks for sale. That just saved a lot of work. Apparently, there is something personal about that aircraft and it was an easy design.