Flanker Frenzy 2012

kaiyudsai

 

Wow, nice work! It actually looks kinda sharp wearing the heat-burnt metal + pre-shading!!

Magnific incoming beast kaiyudsai

Excellent work on the steel painting

kaiyudsai

Nice job on that pattern, what did you end up masking with? FYI, I saw an ad for an upcoming issue of, welll, "a British Scale Aircraft Modelling magazine that shall not be mentioned here"   They are doing a build of Italeri's 1/72 Su32/34, which I just happen to have in the stash. Hoping to start making some progress on my first Flanker in the next few weeks, but enjoy lurking her in the meantime.

huge mask work

Kaiyudsai- that is looking great!   Those AKAN paints look to be spot-on, more so than the Model Master enamels.    Please let us know how those Linden Hill decals are to work with- they look pretty delicate.

Good luck in your contest- this looks like a winner.

I starting decaling last night.....   I had decals from 2 sources.... the big Begemot set....(stencils and Flankers on Patrol    And Hi Point   (a polish Company).....  the latter were horribly thin and melted with microsol,   so i used the Begemot.....  they are amazing..... they are thin  but durable... they settle down with just a little microset..  I got all the top stenciling and Ukrainian insignia on last night....  So i got about 150 stencil on... only about 200 left!!!  LO)L...    at first i thought this to be a daunting task... but the Begemot decals prep fast.... just 2 dips in the water... and they slide in about 25 seconds.....    believe it or not   i didnt have a single tear or messed up decal last night...... that's a testement to Begemot's quality....  because Im famous for screwing these up..... 

i thought at first the stenciling was a bit much.. but it really adds a level of realism that you just cant match..... I will get pics up soon....

The AKAN paint is great.... but there are a few lessons I learned when working with it.... Prime your surface well... and down use too smooth of a micromesh for polishing prior to painting.,.... the paint chips too easily then... and you can forget it on plain plastic....    Generally speaking I like enamels... because they bond better.... but being a Soviet modeller... The Akan paint is just too good of a resource not to learn to use it properly.....   It also brushes perfectly right out of the bottle...   and you need 24 hours of curing time before you can even handle your plane....  lay it on soft surfaces till you get your future on....

the AKAN paint is a nice semi gloss.... so there isnt a need to future coat prior to stenciling,..decals  etc.... I dont like to build up thick layers of clear prior to panel line washes so it's good to be able to eliminate this first clear coat......  I will add a nice layer after i finish my decals and post shading...... then future,.,.,,, then washes....  then dull coat..... and I think very last i will brush on a filter to bring together the splinter camo and give it a sun bleached effect on top... I will prob use the blue filter for panzer gray     any thoughts....  trying to finish by Saturday......  it will be a close one.... there is a show this weekend

Good to hear that the Begemot decals are tough- I have the stencil set in 1/32 (all 4 pages!).

I can't decal that fast- I'm slow, slow, slow...

So, AKAN paints are enamel or acrylic?

I dunno about a blue filter, if anything I'd think that a warmer toned filter would be more appropriate for a sun-bleached look....  perhaps a highly diluted paint mixed with your dull coat?  I do that all the time for a final dusty look.

Akan paints are acrylic....  but they are the richest acrylics aside from Lifecolor Ive worked with.... i really wish they were enamel..... I prefer using Mr Hobby Enamels the best..... they never peel....  but Akan has all of the soviet and eastern block colors spot on.....    you just have to thin with distilled water....  and find the perfect ratio... and they spray really nice.....they leave a really nice semigloss coat.... so you never need to gloss up for decals...

I have the Begemot stencils for my 32 scale Flanker too   but they are so yellow,..... The guy at Linden Hill told me they were using a cheaper lacquer back in 2008 when all of the 32 scale decals were printed   so MOST of them have yellowed up....  How do yours look/???  I tried contacting Begemot with no luck....    Linden hill sent me their own stencils  which are really nice,,, and I will supplement with the ones they havent included I guess   But Im sold on Begemot now   

My Begemot's are slightly yellowed as well, but I plan on setting them in a window to get blasted by some late afternoon sun- I've heard that the UV will knock the yellowing out in a few days.  

This tip work with old decals? i have some old decals to cure

Bsyamato- I sure hope so, but I haven't yet tried it.   Let us give it a try and see?

start you, here's a little problem with sun lately.... he hiding behind clouds LOL

Waith to put yours, my decals are for sure oldest than yours (some smer or airfix from 80 for sure), so if the sun give a worst result will lost only my old ones decals

digging between oldest colors refound these

some more progress,.....  stencils down and decals....   unfortunately I had two that were unclear on  the location diagram and I placed them without checking the pics... and they dont belong there...  on the port side under the cockpit... I couldnt get them off without destroying my finish   so Im just going to leave them.... got my first Flory wash off.....  I used black   since it really stood out nicely.. and these Flankers are notoriously dirty,,....   Unfortunately ... I only had Bort no 56 in 32 scale... so I used 57.,... even though in reality 57 is painted with stripes on the wings....    creative license//// LOL  

You can see the back up water compass on the resin casting... now ti find a way to get the white liones on it  LOL 

Beautiful finishing work kaiyudsai!

VanceCrozier

Beautiful finishing work kaiyudsai!

cool markings

bsyamato

This tip work with old decals? i have some old decals to cure

I tried the sun-bleach trick with the oob decals I used on the Airfix Magister - in a window for a couple weeks in the fall & it worked nicely, without bleaching out the colours. (Very good news - where else was I going to find decals for a Belgian trainer??)

NiceNews

Hi guys,
If it is all right with you I would like to join this Group Build.
I have the Eduard SU-27 Flanker B , #1167 Limited Edition 1:48.

Very Best Regards
Johan 

You're in, Johan.

Kaiyudsai, how'd that contest go?

Hi guys,
Thanks for letting me in this late, I am very much looking forward to this :)

Just opened up the box on the Academy licence Eduard kit.
And found that the debate about the kit being pricey is not true in my case - I have 2 bags of Brassin
I could post some sprue shots if you guys are interested. The rest of the kit is pretty much Academy with some odd decision making.
The wheels are replaced and are now 2 part plastic.
The tube has been redefined and so the seat - but both are replaced with Brassin parts.

I deffo need a  new canopy and a new nose cone, any advice out there

Very Best Regards

Johan

Johan, you're not late- you still have until the end of the year to complete your bird for this GB.

Could you post some 'in the box' shots as I'd like to see what is in the box for that price tag.  Is this the kit that has the wings molded with the fuselage as one BIG piece, or is another kit that I'm thinking of?

What's wrong with the kit parts?   It seems that everyone's Flanker kits have some sort of misshape or too-short nosecone (that pitot tube seems to throw everyone off).   I don't know if Zactoman is making 1/48 resin replacements...

Hi all,

Here are some sprue shoots of the Eduard/Academy SU-27.

First a view on the upper and lower hull, cast in light blue;

Second picture, in different light it looks much more greyish...

Some of the changed detail, the wheels and seats are reqorked from the Academy;

Seat detail;

Wheel detail;

Tube detail, this is a Brassin (Resin) part;

The Seat, reworked on the sprue but supplied in even better detail in Resin;

The rear wall, again a Resin part;

I would have shown the canopy but I had to return it since the front part was missing on the sprue.

Looking forward to getting this started now, just curioues why they have choosen not to include the side panel instruments in printed etched material rather the resin?

Never mind - on with the build :)

Very Best Regards

Johan

Oh, that's nice.   I envy you for not having to fill wing root seams- are the bottom of the wings molded onto the bottom fuselage as well, or are they separate parts?

Those resin bits look great- it's a toss-up between resin and PE when it comes to this sort of thing.  Preprinted PE looks fantastic, but flat whereas the resin looks fantastic as well but is more of a PITA to paint cleanly.

Get cracking, because once you finish your kit and post the pics, I'll send you one of these minis just for participating in this GB!  1st. finisher gets #01 and so on. 

All you have to do is participate, finish the kit and then PM me if you want one!

Hey guys, I just found this site while looking for different colors schemes for Flankers

http://www.mars.slupsk.pl/fort/sukhoi/

It has pretty much everything we'll ever need in so far as national markings and basic colors go and even has info on bort numbers, delivery numbers and whatnot.  Click on one of the side profiles to bring up a nice, printable scale rendering of that scheme.

There's some interesting schemes in there- the African and Asian birds are especially colorful compared to the ex-Soviet bloc states. 

Hope it helps someone!

Using some color profiles that I downloaded from http://www.mars.slupsk.pl/fort/sukhoi/, I printed some 11x17 pages to use as guides for the next batch of 1/350 Sukhois.  I chose some of the more colorful and off-beat schemes rather than the usual Russian or Ukrainian birds.

Then I put down some base colors on Saturday and then worked on the bottom colors on Sunday.   There's 7 different custom paint mixes in play here...

Still have to work up a bunch of Tamiya tape masks, then I can begin to shoot some camo on them.  My hands aren't steady enough to hand-paint the camo.

So... that's that for now.

LOL will schedule my su-34 work to fit my finish for the whished little flanker scheme

or these are not for prizes ?

If only school would be done faster, then I could have time to begin my Flanker!