That's Amore (Italian GB) Jan 1-June 30 2012

Jack awesome scene there  with figures the little tank shows how is really little

Tigerman nice updates, to me seems good 

The figures are friggen cool and do add a lot to the tankette. Wonderfully done.

Well done.The figs really top it off nicely.

I believe now I'm officially done.  Spent the afternoon taking close to two dozen photos, so here are the best ones.  Eric, thanks for hosting this build, and I look forward to seeing your's completed as well as everyone else's.

regards,

Jack

I agree Jack, I went too dark on them. Oh well, I'll money around and see if I can lessen it a bit.

Jack, first I forgot to mention what a nice looking CV3/33 you've built and of course that oustanding commander figure just tops it of beautifully!  Being a tank guy I "AMORE" both your little tankette and Eric's Semovente!  

Whoopsie on the mounting of the CV on the base!!   Wish I could provide some sage advice, but I've never ventured to the mounting phase of tank building!  Looks like you've got it figured out though and the booboos seem like an easy fix!

Eric, personally I really like the dark wash and how it makes the bolts "pop"!  The sprocket in the first photo really stands out, I amore that look, especially with the brown staining around the upper rim.  Properly dirty and dingy in my book!!

Eric, I  agree with the comments, your Semovente is looking good, definetly got the bolts popping.  Considering the desert environment, another option would of been to have dust/sand accumulated around them and then drybrush  the surfaces of the bolt heads to an exposed dark metal colour.

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After exchanging a few messages with Rob (Panzerwaffe) on how to best attach the small vehicle to a base, I decided to tempt the hands of fate and use brass pins.  Due to the small frailty of the model, he suggested forgoing the pin method and just apply glue to the bottom of the tracks.  Hind site now says I should of done just that.

At first I had just four pins in, located centrally on the more sturdier wheels.  I realized though the extreme ends would be more important anchor points to keep the tracks in proper contact with the ground - so added four more pins (this is what happens when one doesn't plan ahead - d'oh!).  Too many pins now so snipped the initial four.   Drill bit was 0.4mm and the brass 0.3mm size.

I had major problems getting the pins to insert into the holes in the base, but after some  test fitting everything seemed a go and was ready to apply the adhesive (white glue along the track length, and super glue gel on the pins).  I ended up snipping both pins on one side as they just wouldn't go in, and actually buckled under the pressure I was applying. 

Finally got it settled down and applied one final bit of pressure, and that's when I heard a faint snap and some plastic bits hitting the floor.  One of the tracks came undone, and all four covers for the duel wheel sets had come off - a result of using resin and regular plastic parts.  Surprisingly, neither of the crew hatches broke, something I've been doing quite regularly with this build. 

Should be an easy fix.  I am concerned about the second road wheel from the front. Looks a bit wonky and up in the air.  I didn't notice until the first photo posted above, but this was a problem area already before attachment to the base.

regards,

Jack

Thanks Ernest, you're way to kind. I messed up the dot filter and went too dark around the bolts, but I wanted them to pop out. The mufflers are still incomplete.

Rob, thanks again for those decals, they went on very well with no fuss.Tamiya decals, or at least 40 year old decals stink.

You may not be happy with it Eric, but I think it looks pretty darn good!  I really like how you went with a camo scheme, which gives it a more unique look, and the oil wash turned out great in my view!!  Hopefully the tracks will work out for you.

An update. I got some weathering done. Not happy with some of it, which I need to touch up. I'm going to put on a dust filter next and call that part good. I had a big problem with the tracks, but hope to fix that. 

Started the weathering process. Wasn't happy with the dot filter. Spent a long time trying to weather around the bolts. Came out so-so. I think I'll add a dusty filter or two and call that good. Still going to have some fun with the blanking tracks.

TD and Waikong, thanks for your approval.

Ernest, you are welcome for the tip. 

The acrylic technique I used involves no blending on the figure.  The colours are put down in transparent layers, similar to how armour builders would apply filters on vehichles.  The paint though is just thin enough so the brush tip remains pointed, (too much water and the paint would just run all over the place).  The colours are built up like a pyramid.   So for instance, the highlights phase, the lightest colour would be in the center of the just previous colour layed down.  I had a difficult time seeing the tone variance put down, and could tell more from the fact it looked wet once applied.  When viewing the finished product with our eyes, the human brain naturally blends these shades.  

The video really gives a good idea of the technique, although Marion on several occasions can't explain why she picks the colours she uses and can only offer that each individual must experiment for themselves what looks best.

regards,

Jack

TD, the Roma is looking better and better!  I love the look of those PE stairs (gangways in ship lingo?), they really look in scale and add to your excellent build!   

jgeratic1

 It is actually acrylic paints, a mix of Andrea and Vallejo brands.  I re-painted the faces after coming back to the work bench a few days after posting the head shots.  I was decidedly not happy with how they looked.  So while they soaked in some chemicals (Simply Green de-greaser/cleaner), I took in another viewing of Marion Ball`s video of how she paints faces with acrylics.

It`s 50 mins long, but basically what she does after putting down a medium skin tone is to work on the highlights.  She mixes about four different shades and lays each one down like a glaze, progressively getting lighter with each one.   Then she does the shadow areas, progressively getting darker with each shade.  She uses just plain water to thin the paints, and a number 1 size brush.

I did add some of my own techniques during the process, like using black weathering powder for the beard stubble.

regards,

Jack

Wow!!  Acrylic, really?!?  I could have sworn it was oil paints, the blending is excellent!  I've only tried figure painting (face) with acrylics once, and although satisfied with my initial attempts, it doesn't come close to your masterpieces!!  I'll have to check out Marion Ball's video and see how she does it.  Thanks so much for the tip Jack!!

Over to the starboard side.

Jack, another thumbs up vote for your figure painting skills!

bufflehead

Absolutely outstanding figure painting Jack!!  Looks like oil?

TD4438

 

tigerman:

 

Those new guns look out of scale compared to the ones in the turret. Are the muzzles bored on them?

 

The guns are in scale.The turret mounted guns are 90mm while the deck guns are 120mm star shell firing.They appear to match the reference photos I have.

 

Looks to be the number one answer.  Not a whole lot written on this gun.  Cracked open a book on battleships and all it gave for the Vittorio Veneto class was 4 x 4.7 inch (120mm) guns.  Seems to be a British design from pre-WW1.

More info here: http://navweaps.com/Weapons/WNBR_47-40_mk1.htm

Eric and Ernest, thanks for the compliments.

It is actually acrylic paints, a mix of Andrea and Vallejo brands.  I re-painted the faces after coming back to the work bench a few days after posting the head shots.  I was decidedly not happy with how they looked.  So while they soaked in some chemicals (Simply Green de-greaser/cleaner), I took in another viewing of Marion Ball`s video of how she paints faces with acrylics.

It`s 50 mins long, but basically what she does after putting down a medium skin tone is to work on the highlights.  She mixes about four different shades and lays each one down like a glaze, progressively getting lighter with each one.   Then she does the shadow areas, progressively getting darker with each shade.  She uses just plain water to thin the paints, and a number 1 size brush.

I did add some of my own techniques during the process, like using black weathering powder for the beard stubble.

regards,

Jack

tigerman

Those new guns look out of scale compared to the ones in the turret. Are the muzzles bored on them?

Absolutely outstanding figure painting Jack!!  Looks like oil?

That looks awesome Jack.

Figures are very close to being done - next session will be attaching everything to the base.  The commander's head will go on at that time.  This will help to best determine if he will be looking straight ahead or at his driver. 

To get a good placement of the hand that is touching the vehicle, I drilled a hole from the wrist through  the palm as well as the vehicle, and another in figure's arm.  Inserted a hollow brass pin for strength.

regards,

Jack

Don't laugh at me, but are they torpedo launchers?

I see what you mean.I don't think they are bored out.There's only four of them and they look a bit out of place.I wonder what they were for? They were definately on the Roma.

Those new guns look out of scale compared to the ones in the turret. Are the muzzles bored on them?

I finally got back to the bench.Just a lot of boring fiddly bits at the moment.

Ernest that's cool of you. The problem is, they will more then likely break again. they're too short. I might still take you up on it. Thanks bud.

Eric, you were using Italeri M40-75/18 tracks?  If so, I've got a set I'm not planning on using and you're welcome to them.  If you're interested just PM me with your address and I'll ship them out tomorrow.  No need to buy some spendy Friuls or MKs for a $5 kit!! 

Yeah, I'm still lurking in this GB......

*EDIT*

I pulled the tracks from the Italeri box and took a quick photo just to be sure this is what you need.

Disappointment. I broke my tracks to the max. They snapped. They were Italeri tracks and yes they are stiffer then Tamiya. However, they were detailed on both sides, unlike Tamiya. Now I will have to investigate AM, which I didn't want to get into, because of cost. I got the kit for $5 and spent $12 on an AM barrel. Add tracks and I'm looking at an overspent 40 year old kit.