AIRCRAFT - USMC Group Build (ends 7/30/04)

Washed my Hornet this morning. Hope to paint the aluminum basecoat today if it dries fast enough.

I put more decals on last night. I know this sounds crazy, but I actually like applying decals.

Jim, why are you painting an aluminum base coat for your Hornet? What sort of scheme are you painting?

Regards,

SBD builders,
Here are some Dauntless sites.
http://www.dauntless.narod.ru/
http://www.aero-web.org/locator/manufact/douglas/sbd.htm
http://www.compass.dircon.co.uk/SBD.htm
http://www.military.cz/usa/air/war/bomber/sbd/sbd_en.htm

Some may take time to download because they have a lot of pics. These are restored SBDs of different types. Hope they help.

USMCSM...I been planning on swinging by MCAS Yuma one of these days, is that hobby shop worth a stop?

I am doing the Patriot Hornet from Twobobs. I am using the Aluminum for a basecoat. Like I said earlier as that fellow did in FSM a couple years ago with that Helldiver. He used the natural Metal finish as a basecoat. You think this is a bad idea? I have the whole model assembled. Nothing is painted other than the cockpit. I have to paint the aluminum for around the weapons pylons plus the engine area in the back. I just figured it was the best way to go. My sanding isn't perfect but for this one I am stil learning. I will work on this for each subsequent build I do in the future.

I am getting there I will do some more sanding before I proceed. Then rewash. You disagree?

I am also pondering the idea of doing a second model for this build. I am thinking of doing the rescribing work on my F-4B and converting it to and RF-4B, as I have the front end nose conversion. I will not use the cockpit that I have, I will stick with the regular cockpit as I would like to save that one for my Special Scheme markings from Testors I wrote about days ago. I do have one other set of RF-4B's from another company. I think it is from Microscale. There are two RF-4B's and one RF-4C. I think from Alabama. But that is for another time. I also have that F-4J so I have to wait and see what my long term plans are. Take care.

I'm doing the Hasegawa -4 Corsair in 1/48th. I want to finish it with VMF323 markings. They had a brown cowl, FS 20152. Testors doesn't have this FSN, nor anyone else I have checked. Any one have a suggestion for a match?

Also, has any one here been solicited for the new USMC museum at Quantico?

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimz66 I am doing the Patriot Hornet from Twobobs. I am using the Aluminum for a basecoat. Like I said earlier as that fellow did in FSM a couple years ago with that Helldiver. He used the natural Metal finish as a basecoat. You think this is a bad idea?

Hi Jim. I didn't mean to sound critical, I'm mostly just curious because bare metal seems out of place on a Hornet. It makes sense (to me) for something like the Helldiver because when paint would chip off, you'd see bare metal. I think in the article you refer to, the author used that effect for weathering.

QUOTE: I have the whole model assembled. Nothing is painted other than the cockpit. I have to paint the aluminum for around the weapons pylons plus the engine area in the back.

I know there's bare metal around the engine exhausts, but I wasn't aware there was any near the weapons pylons.

QUOTE: I just figured it was the best way to go. My sanding isn't perfect but for this one I am still learning. I will work on this for each subsequent build I do in the future. I am getting there I will do some more sanding before I proceed. Then rewash. You disagree?

Absolutely not! It's your model. Build it the way you want it. I'm at the relatively inexperienced end of the model-building pool. I've seen a couple of articles where folks have primed their planes with some sort of bare metal finish, so it's not a crazy idea. I'm simply curious about your take on the pros or cons of doing that for your plane.

I spent a lot of time sanding and finishing the Phantom I'm working on. The primer coat really helped me spot the areas that still needed work. I'd work on something, shoot a primer coat of Testors light gray spray enamel, and then sand some more.

That's one advantage to a natural metal finish -- you'll certainly see where additional sanding needs to be done.

I'm glad I took the time to really work on the model before painting it. I simply can't see the seams now. There are still a couple of areas that could have used some work, but I'm the only one who is going to notice.

In any event, I apologize again if I came across as critical.

Good luck, and enjoy the build!

Regards,

Scott53,
Absolutly! If for no other reason than that it is right across the street. He has a fine selection of model aircraft in all scales. As a military history buff you well feel right at home as soon as you walk in.

Drew

No offense taken. This is my first build in ten plus years. Dealing with tuerretes it is hard for me to even do this but I Do the best I can. I think that having the natural metal finish underneath will make it easier for me to mask the area's needing to be masked and then go from there. Again I am new as well, I read that article, and from that point on I figured until I got NMF down right that would be the way I would go and then figure it out from there.

Thanks for the kind words of support. I am going to spend more time sanding before painting. We have till July to finish this so why not? Why rush the finish?

Gary is it your policy we cannot post images of this build anywhere? I would like to post mine on ARC eventually. So If I have to wait let me know. I assume that is the policy. Thanks.

Keep up on posting guys it sure helps me on my end.

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimz66 Drew No offense taken. This is my first build in ten plus years.

Yeah, I'm on my second build after starting again. My break from modeling was about 10 years.

QUOTE: Dealing with tuerretes it is hard for me to even do this but I Do the best I can.

I worked with a woman who had Tourette's -- she was our ace saleswoman and good fun to be with! Doing one's best is all the any of us can do. I have to keep telling myself that my best is good enough and the rest will come with practice. Once I decided to get back into it, try new things, and not worry too much if I make a mistake, I found deep satisfaction from modeling.

QUOTE: I think that having the natural metal finish underneath will make it easier for me to mask the area's needing to be masked and then go from there. Again I am new as well, I read that article, and from that point on I figured until I got NMF down right that would be the way I would go and then figure it out from there.

I've had luck with Testors MM Acryl (acrylic) aluminum from my airbrush, but I was spraying onto the enamel primer coat. The acrylics don?t' seem to stick too well to bare plastic for me. Do you know what sort of paint you're going to use? If not, I'd suggest an enamel for your base coat.

QUOTE: Thanks for the kind words of support. I am going to spend more time sanding before painting. We have till July to finish this so why not? Why rush the finish?

That?s what I think too. I've been working on my Phantom since late May of last year. There were a couple of months where I didn't touch it, and some weeks where I'd only get an hour or two of work done. However, a lot of the time was spent with me trying something new for the first time: filling/sanding, priming, using an airbrush, laying down a gloss coat of future, and now putting on the decals using setting and solvent solutions.

QUOTE: Keep up on posting guys it sure helps me on my end.

Amen! It's great talking about techniques and getting encouragement. The group build keeps me motivated to do a little bit each night.

Regards,

Well here are the finished pieces for the front office. Sorry about the grainy pict.
Somehow, I wish that I had a digital camera with a macro lens

I am going to use metalizer. I have some handy from the last go round in this hobby. That was one thiing I kept everything. Although I have had some problems with the older paints.

I am new here and was wondering if it was too late to get in on the groubuild?/ Also do we pick any USMC aircraft ?? I have so many unbuilt I can be very flexible as to type anything from a 1/72 WW1 DH-4 to an F-18..Thanks

Hey Heath,
You know I thought about saying something about being in San Diego but I wasn't sure if I would have anytime for anything. As it turned out we didn't, the next time I'm heading that way I will let you know.

usmcsm,
Thanks for the info.

Yeah, I'm sure those Girlscouts can keep a person pretty busy......Hey Wibhi2, love the pics of the cockpit!! Is that a resin seat ??? And what did you use for seatbelts? What is your technique for painting all of those fine details?? Hey James, have you sprayed your AB yet?? I'm still waiting for all of my items I've ordered, but I hope to get them sometime this week.

All,
While researching I found this site which I believe most of us can use. It contains pictures of instrument panels of quite a few planes and almost all of those mentioned in the build so far.

http://gra.midco.net/mlgould/

My neighbor was over when I found it. When I said I had to get it out on the forum he said "why? Then their models will be as good or maybe better than yours!" I told him that was the idea! Some people just don't get it.

Might have to change my plans. Rummaging through my kits I found the Fujimi 1/72 EA-6A. I might have to go with it.

whibi2,
Looking good amigo!

Thanks for posting the link to that awesome web site!

Regards,

Drew,
Check out this seat site too!!!! It is fantastic!
http://www.ejectionsite.com/frame_sg.htm

Excellant instrument panel site there, usmcsm - thanks for that link.
I use the ejection seat site alot. Any see the article of building your own flight simworking cockpit on that site?

kik36 -
Thanks. It's the resin seat that came with black box set #48018 and the seat belts are moulded in. A real fine brush and a steady hand (no coffee for atleast 2 hours before) help in painting those details - otherwise it's the standard drybrush/wash deal. Since I usually have a hard time with washes I'll also mix my own shadow colors using a combination of dk blue/black and the base color - again applied with a steady hand
and a fine brush. It ain't perfect, but it works for me.

usmcsm....sounds like my kind of hobby shop, will check it out when I can get over to Yuma.

Well all, I'm going to sit down and start on the OV-10 tonight... hopefully I can get an update on here soon. It sounds like you're all getting off to a good start... sorry to here about the troubles Gary. I'll try to get a good start and maybe get some "progress pics" up.

I will be painting my NMF on my Hornet tomorrow. That will be the basecoat. I am going to use Model Master Enamels to finish my Hornet. I will paint the second coat on Saturday or Sunday after applying ink pen for the panel lines. Then I will paint the second coat on Tuesday or Wednesday. Can't wait to get this one done. I am feeling exicted about finishing it. I hope to finish in about three to five more weeks.

I think my decals were shipped today can't wait to see them. They look great I got some good deals over at Twobobs. I have stocked up on some that are going to be future projects.

Hey jimz66, how does that work out with the panel lines? Does the ink bleed through the base coat then each succssive coat? Are you using acrylics or enamels?

I hope not. i am going with multiple techniques I have heard about from others.

I am using enamals.

Gary if your out there, I hope all is well. I may have a problem. I posted a new post about my Hornet for the Group Build yesterday. I ordered decals from Twobobs on the main page they list them as F/A-18C's but in reality they are F/A-18A+'s. I asked what the difference was and Bob over at Twobobs only said that they have the IFF antennas on them. Will this still suffice for the group build or should I choose something else for decals? They are accurate markings. But would it be ok to stick them on a C rather than an A or an A+. The Decal sheet lists under "Whats Out There" F/A-18A/C so I wonder if this is ok. Thanks.

Refer to the responses in my Hornet Help wanted post I made and was answered this morning.

Jim,

As I understand it, the only requirements for this build are that the kit be a Marine aircraft, and that it be done by the end of July.

As far as I know, kit/decal accuracy only matters to the person building the kit. I would be mortified if we started nit-picking each others' models.

If I were in your situation, I would probably just put the decals on the A model plane.

Regards, and good luck!

Drew I have two Hornets from Hasegawa. But the problem is that I have robbed parts from the A to replace the litte ones I lost from the C. The C is the one I am building.

I think that the rules that Gary said were that it had to be an accurate paint scheme. Althougth I can just wait until I can buy another set of decals. That will give me time to work on my painting. I can just wait a while that's all. I am going to replace those missing parts when I get some resin, the next time I buy a Hasegawa Hornet. It took me a long tome to get those tiny pieces on. So I do not wan't to take them off. If I read this group build two weeks earlier, then I could have done the A model. I suppose I could leave them off. but I would rather not.

I am missin the little pieces between the intakes (Both sides, these two I am not so worried about.) The one that I am worried about is one of the six pieces that attacth to the upper fuselage and the verticle stababilzers.

Changed my mind just after I made this post. I am going to go with the other kit. I am going to buy another set for the C model later. I will use this set from twobobs from the Mariens. I did not want to go the other way because the only other paint scheme I have for the A is that nice Superscale set from VMFA-321. So I will be doing two aircraft for this build after all. I can always add those pieces later. I didn't wan't to do that because I was affraid that I wouldn't be able to match the right colors. If it is a one color paint scheme it wont be so bad.

Jim,

I'm glad you found an answer to your quandary. I'm in a similar quandary with an F-14D kit that I'm going to build. It's the Fujimi F-14D kit, but the cockpit has the wrong instrument panels. The kit also has the wrong under-nose sensor pod for the D model.

I have an extra sensor pod from the Revell-Monogram F-14D (a fine kit in its own right). I may try my hand at casting the Revell instrument panels in resin for use with the Fujimi kit.

And all of this is because I got decals for an F-14D of VF-31 during Operation Enduring Freedom! I'm a slave to my decals.

I may even get some air to ground ordinance to make the plane better reflect its role during that conflict.

Regards,

I got my decals yesterday and they look great. I cant wait to see them on the finished products. I finished working on the first one for now. I have a little more sanding to do. But it is on hold now as I need some superglue to install the cockpit panel in my A model. So before I go any further I will wait until I have that piece in place. At least for now. I would rather paint both aircraft at the same time as they are the same paint scheme.

I wish more of you would make more regular posts so we can compare were we all are.

All the decals are on my plane! I just need to paint and attach the landing gear, and then attach the missiles. Then the plane will be done.

I'm going to make a base with tarmac and add one-two painted figures.

Things are going really well!

Regards,