The 2013 Automotive Group Build

This is how she looked before the new paint job, but after the "body work".

I added more vertical bend to the front and rear frame. Chevys older than 76 tend to have weak rear ends, so I really tweaked the stock rear frame, as far up as I could before hitting the added frame.

Here is a pre-rebuild pic. As you can see, the softened plastic "dents" look way too soft.

Okie doke, I'll post some WIP photos. I'll post a bunch of pics when I get to a desktop or laptop computer, my phone makes it time consuming and tedious to even post one lol. Here's the rundown: revell has a few cars I plan on building into derby cars, but I figured the 64 impala low rider was the best choice for a couple reasons: it's a pretty boxy car, so the dents and body bend wouldn't be very complicated to recreate. The kit came with the option to build it in 3 ride heights: low, stock, and high. I needed the spindles and coilover pieces to make it sit higher, to keep the frame off the ground after bending, as well as give it the "crimped shock" look. Looking back now, I should have added the high spindles in te front, and used stock ones in the rear, the car noses up bad at the firewall. This is technically a "rebuild", but the only things that weren't altered were the roof and the doors, this is probably a 65% Scratchbuild. I was 14 when I originally built this car. The "dents" were just softened plastic smashed in with the nose of another car. I thought to myself "that just doesent look right", they were too soft and rounded. I (impulsively) hacked off the front fenders, then thought "oh..... Didnt have that one thought through too well" lol. I took the fenders, and using a little shop class knowledge, traced them onto a flat piece of popcan aluminum. I then sanded the entire piece, creased body lines in as best I could, or as best could be noticed, added some "pre bend", super glued it to the body, then added final dents and folds. I made the entire front an real clips from popcan aluminum (except the hood, which is brass sheet). I didnt have any 1/25 pick-up rims/snow tires or bobcat tires, so I rummaged in the spares box, and found 4 1/35 WWII German puma tires: they looked close enough to 1/25 deuce and a half tires and wheels to be passable. The interior is almost typical of a derby car: has a racing seat, relocated fuel cell, battery, essential gauges (the panel is still a WIP as well), toggle switch ignition, and "steel plate" over the inside of the drivers door for protection (a safety feature my uncles have always run. But, looking through the window it's clear this isn't built as a stock derby car. I added a full second frame, from firewall to rear bumper, from 1/8" or 1/4" square styrene tube, and rusted it to look like scrap yard steel. Then added leaf springs (which help strengthen the rear end as well as make the stance more firm. Added a northern WI window cage, and MN style upright headers. Used alteration pins for the "threaded rod" through the hood and trunk. Still so much to do. I'll add pics and answer questions if you guys wanna know more, I don't want to leave too long of a rant lol.

Looking good, Tony

Here's the latest on the 1/20 Studio 27 Ferrari F186.

The wheels. The kit wheels are OK but I didn't like the tyres. These are Fujimi tyres.


I've decided to use the Fujimi front wing too, the S27 one is way off.


Here's a couple of comparison shots from the British GP, which seemed typical.
The S27 end plate seems to be the wrong shape.


The wing itself is too broad, I have photos from each GP and none seem to be that broad. THe wing itself is also short in span, whereas the Fujimi one is correct. Anotehr reason to use the Fujimi one.


Here is how the S27 wing fits to the body.


Here's how the Fujimi wing doesn't fit to the S27 body I'll have to box this area in. I'll try to make it so that I can fit the wing after the body is painted.


I've prepped the front wing assembly, just need to add some details and assemble at the right time.


Here's the dashboard, or do they call them instrument panels in F1 cars ? The screen on the S27 white metal part was crude, even cruder than the one I've made.


And the steering wheel, I'll add a little detail to it also.


and all the brake assembly parts. Once again the scoops aren't that accurate, but I think I'll live with them this time.


Last photo for now, the S27 front suspension. It's not in great shape, but I'll either straighten or replace it.

Trey - that looks really good. I do like the Pearl Green with the black and the flames.It's all coming together really well.

WildChild - that's an interesting build you've got there. Do you have any more photos, and can you tell us some more about it. What kits were used, what's the concept for it  ? I'd like to see some WIP photos so I can see how you did it.

Cheers

Tony

410 sprint car motor, with an added starter, transmission, modified oil pan, and reworked plumbing and wiring. I added leaf springs, a ton of reinforcement, and alot of metal into this car.

Looks like you won't be getting a rebate check from GEICO!  Looks interesting.

Guys I'm sorry but I'm going to have to post these one at a time... Phone has an attitude.

Tony wish I had some info on the wing issue for you just not up to speed on those. The Mustang came out sharp btw ,like the last batch of pics.

I've gotten some build time in and finished up the interior,along with the exhaust and weathered the underside a tad.

Also applied the Green pearl,just have to shoot some clear over it next

Thank you kindly sir! I'll post pics soon! My builds kinda bring a twisted side to modeling lol

I've updated the build roster WildChild, you're very welcome here.

Cheers

Tony

Can you slate me in for two 1/25 Chevy impala, 1/25 Pete 359 conventional, and 40' freuhauf flatbed trailer?

Hi Everyone,
I thought I'd do some work on the Studio 27 Ferrari F186. When I look at the front wing, it just doesn't look right, nor do the endplates. Here is a comparison photo between the Studio 27 part, which are the metallic ones in the picture, and some parts I've pinched from a Fujimi Ferrari F187/88C, which I have already decided to use as a donor kit for other purposes.


The first question is why is the Fujimi front wing wider, from tip to tip. Was there a rule change governing front wing width between 1986 and 1988, or is it some kit inaccuracy ? The difference in parts is about 4mm. I'll look into this tomorrow.

Here are some photos from the car at the British GP of 1986. From the other photos I have, these seem fairly typical of the front wing configuration for most, if not all races of 1986. The Studio 27 endplates are not the same shape, and the front part of the main wing surface is way too broad, I can't find any photos to support that at all.



If I can sort out the width issue, then I think I can rework the Fujimi wing to fit the Studio 27 body. If I have to shorten it, then that's achievable too I guess, I just need to know the right answer.

Cheers

Tony

That sounds like it's going to be really nice Mike, welcome aboard. I do like the yellow color. You're most welcome to join in at your convenience.

Cheers

Tony

Put me down for the AMT 2010 Corvette Convertible. The body has been painted Velocity Yellow and cleared but no other assembly has been done. I'll probably kitbash logos and marker lights from the Revell kit since last time I did a modern AMT Vette the decals were unusable. Interior will be black with Dark Ghost Gray accents or just straight black, haven't decided yet. I'll get to work on the guts of it as soon as my entries for The Gulf Wars GB and My First Time GB cross the finish line because I raelly don't want to tandem a fourth project in with the three I already have going.

Tony – Great! Cheers… hope to start my builds before our family FL trip. And congrats on finishing the Stang, very nice.

Greg – Great find! The place in our house that gets swept the most is the area around my workbench… the stuff I find!

Tony: the Triumph's looking nice.

On another note, I keep getting hit with set backs on my build.  First the gear shift broke off the steering column while I was installing it on the dash.  To complicate matters, after de-chroming the 4-wheel drive shifter, it went down the drain in the rinse process!   Now to wait to see it Revell customer service will fulfill my parts request.

Yesterday, I went to Blizzard Con and found Monogram's COP OUT kit...cheap...I bought it just for the old school beacon lightbar.  I thought it would look grat on my Revell Ford Bronco kit.  I even made a deal to sell the rest of the kit for what I paid for it before I left.   Well, I got home, checked the chrome sprue....great all the light bar parts are still there.   Wait...the clear domes......NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!  There's only ONE clear rotator dome.   On the plus side, the single rotator might look good on the GMC's roof.

I did manage to touch up the paint on the GMC's shock absorbers.

UPDATE:  while removing the chrome parts from the sprue, I dropped one....while looking for it I found the second clear dome!!!!  YEAH!  It was hiding in the tan carpet of my man cave.....

Tony - The TR7 roof looks good, As does the Stang.

I'll be getting the Camaro out tonight. I'm only putting another clear coat layer on it. Then I'll do more on the Semi Van Trailer

Sprayed the vinyl roof with S-G black, inside and out.

cheers

Tony

I thought I'd finish off the Triumph TR-7 next, I think it still needs 1-2 weeks of work. It will form part of a collection of Triumph cars I am building. I've already completed a couple of TR-3s and a TR-2. I think I've got every 1/24 Triumph that is available, in plastic at least, as well as a couple of 1/32 ones of cars that are not available in other scales. Once done I'll photograph them all together.

Here's the starting point:

Greentracker - The decals looked in reasonable shape, but were slightly yellowed. What I didn't realise was that the adhesive had gone off and was quite ineffective. I've been watching your P-38. I have to build a P-47 for it sometime soon.

Here's some photo's of the 1/32 Mustang GT-350. It's certainly not my best effort, but at least it's completed.

Cheers

Tony

Tony,

The Mustang looks great.The color on the Nova is Model Master Dark Red Metallic.

Trey,

Those flames look even better.

Hey everyone, was just looking through the posts i've been mising out on the last few days. Everyone's builds are looking very "fine". I've been concentrating on my First Time GB. For thos who don't know, one of my first builds ever was Monogram's P 38. It' dated 1973. Sooooo. I too, have to deal with 40 year old decals. I haven't tried them yet, but I'm almost to that point now. Decal time within the next week.

Tax - How did your decals look? mine look brand new. There not cloudy or any thing. I have them scanned into the puter, but I'm out of color Ink. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

I'll be back more when I get the P 38out of the way.  No, it's not a can opener. LOL I said that I'll build my P 38 at our last model club meeting and another member said "A can opener HUH?" LOL

Nice work on the Stang, Tony, it looks great.

Trey, those are some monster flames!

Glenn

JMart - I've added you to the build roster. I like those little Heller kits too, they're a bit of fun. I've done a couple of their F1 cars and I think I have most of the rally cars. If you build three of them and I was to do a couple, we might end up with quite a collection.

Trey - The flames just keep getting better. This is definitely the best attempt so far. I usually build 1/24 or 25 for most cars and 1/20 for Formula One cars. Occasionally I dip into other scales. My Mustang collection (there is only 4 completed so far) are all 1/24 or 1/25 until now.

Cheers

Tony

Tony – Great, thanks! My first cars since I was a kid… start easy with Revell’s 1:24 ’53 Corvette Roadster and Plymouth Prowler. Then move to some race cars, the Heller 1:43 Championship World Rally kit containing Citroën Xsara WRC '05, Subaru Impreza WRC '02 and Peugeot 307 WRC '04. Not very complex or exciting builds but a good place to start. Will see what my 50% off coupon at Michael’s gets me next week.

Good looking Stang BTW

Trey – I like the last version of your flames…  Great idea on the cutouts. If you use enamel paints, you can always try to use a flat brush and blend in the colors a bit where they meet while the paint is still wet. Maybe a tad too busy up front, but I love the way it tapers off.

Wheeler its all good I got what you were say'n!

Tony the Stang is looking real sharp,great job on the trim too! What scale do you normally work in?

3rd time is the charm. I know I said it that was it ,but I could'nt stand how garish the flames looked. What do you all think?

Trey - these flames do look better.

Wheeler - that looks pretty good. Interesting color. What is it ? It would be good to file it in the memory bank.

Here's the latest on the 1/32 Stang. To be honest, I'll be glad to return to one of my normal scales. This is far from perfect, still needs some trim, panel lines and windshield to be added. It's fitted together for the photos only. Hopefully tonight is the night. I've given it a very mild polish, I'm not willing to risk more than that as it's only a shelf model.

Cheers

Tony

Trey,

When I said I like this version better, I was talking about the second set of flames on your Merc hehehehe. When I re-read my post it I thought, Wait he must think I'm vain hehehehe.