The 2013 Automotive Group Build

Hasegawa 1/24 Jaguar XJR-9LM

I've used the stencil decals on the tyres. These are different to normal decals, you apply the decal to the tyre and then add water to removed the film, which is actually on the front of the decals. They've had a subsequent coat of Future, but some tidy up and then a flat coat  is warranted. I like to add a droplet of black to the flat coat, it just toans the lettering down a bit.

Cheers

Tony

Here is a link to pic. I found it by typing in "traffic" into Google images. There are lots of pics like this on Google

www.google.com/search

Tony nice job on those decals,used them before and they can be tricky. I used Valspar rattle can for the sg black,its a full size can and is half the price of tamiya.

Greg thanks

Dogfish thats some great scratch work going on there,nice fix!

Waiting on paint to dry so not much to report in on the Merc

Ok, how's this look

I was having some problems with MS Paint tonight. I corrected what I wanted to. So, if some one has PhotoShop or another program, please feel free to take this pic make any changes you like to it.

There's some great builds going on, y'all! Taxtp, I haven't tried the Future top coat yet, I couldn't find a floor buffer small enough to get into the corners

Hi all,

I did make a little progress today.

Here is the axle and springs.

Here are part of the exhaust. This kit came with these pipes that break out about midway of the doors. It also comes with a stock exhaust system. I'm going to modify them so the pipes break out in front of the rear tires. Also drilled them out so they don't look like a lump-o-plastic hehehehe.

Here's the beginning of the engine and transmission.

Intake was stripped of chrome, cleaned up and painted aluminum the way nature intended it to be. Looking at the photo, I think I may a little gap to correct. :)

same with the valve covers, stripped the chrome and painted aluminum.

And got the undercarriage painted. I have to look at it tomorrow though as it was cold and I have my fingers crossed that it's ok.

it's now been two days since I touched any of my builds. I'll get back into it this evening.

I've been thinking of doing a 67 camaro to make a 45 year matched set. Don't put me down for it, I have quite a few others to do before that happens lol

Ken

OK...here's a few pics from my Zombie-resistant Caddy Escalade:

partially built interior

wheels - de-chromed and repainted

Nice progress on the Caddy Greg. I', not really sure what is required to make a Caddy zombie proof, but I'm sure it will be a fun ride.

Ewheeler -  nice work. I would have missed the gap on the intake if you hadn't drawn my attention to it.

There's been some really good progress on a number of builds already, hasn't there ?

Update from me later, I just got up.

Cheers

Tony

Heyyyy............. isn't Zombie Resistant very similar to Toothless Zombies??

Greg,

I really like the detail in the exhaust and undercarriage.

Didn't get to work on mine today. Had to take my wifey to Nashville to shop. I did score a REVELL 55 Bel Air though  hehehehe.

Ewheeler, are there any good hobby shops in Nashville?

Glenn

mississippi,

There are a couple of Hobby Lobbies in Nashville that seem to have more stuff then the one in Clarksville.

There's also a Hobbytown somewhere in Murfeesboro. I haven't been there yet but found it online.

Greentracker - thanks for the further work on the logo. Would it be possible to make the writing in bold font for better visibility ?

I might also try to have a go at one tomorrow. Give people a choice of two or three to suit their tastes.

I've finally got the time to give my update for the day, after a super busy one playing cricket and chasing after the kids.

This is the progress on the Monogram 1/32 1966 Mustang.

I've coloured the tail light lenses, completed the rim and tyre assembly, finished the grille, also the seats and completed the woodgrain steering wheel.

I've also done the flat coat for the Hasegawa Jaguar XJR-9LM wheels.

Cheers

Tony

how's this, Tony?

That looks allot better!

thanks, Dogfish

here's another option, I change the color & font

The builds are looking great Fellas!

I've sprayed the chasis bottom and sanded the body with 400 grit to get rid of some fine mold seams

Thanks to Greentracker and Pyrman, I've added the badge to the first page. Feel free to display it whnenever you like.

Trey - that's coming along erally quickly. Once it gets the primer it really starts to take shape, I reckon.

I'm interested in the materials that everyone uses, what do you prime with ?

Cheers

Tony

Yea, the badge looks better with your printing. I only have MS Paint, so I'm really limited as far as designing things like this.

And Thank You too, both Pyrman & Tax

Had a bit of a drama with the Mustang. Somewhere along the line the chassis has developed a very significant warp. I dunno when it happened, maybe I had it too close to a lamp, but I'm sure it wasn't there originally.

Luckily, I have a spare.

So I've butchered that chassis away from the interior and will use the new one. I'm in the midst of tidying it all up now. I'm still mystified as to how this happened, I'm certain I would have noticed it earlier.

Cheers

Tony

I've just looked at the photos I posted on page one, it's not really the right angle, but I don't think it was warped then. It is definitely warped ina photo I posted on page 4.

Anyways, onwards and upwards I guess.

Cheers

Tony

Being primarily a auto builder I'm bound to do a car at some point between now and Dec. 31st. Sign me up, subject: unknown. Most likely will be a Corvette or maybe Tamiya's Kawasaki ZZR 1400 or another bike.....I got 200+ cars to choose from...uh...I'll get back to you...

Roster updated Mike, it's very good of you to join. I've left it as 'TBA' for the time being.

That makes 22 entries on the build roster, good work folks.

Cheers

Tony

After primer, shot the chassis with Satin Black with a little Sea Salt added.

Then added a little dust.

Painted the 6 with Chevy Red and weathered.

After shooting the second coat ( black) and letting it dry for a few days in the dehydrator. ( Don't make my mistake of putting a resin on a spring holding stand. It will deform your resin....... as I found out!). Took 3200 wet sanding pad and worked on the body to age it a bit.

If you sand down to bare resin or plastic, you can touch up with a sharpie and lightly wisk away mistakes, after a few seconds.

Tony, sorry to see what happened to your chassis, those things drive me batty.

Trey, what are you using for your exhaust pipes?

Glenn

Nice work Dogfish. I didn't realise you were going for the 'well used' look. I particularly like the chassis weathering, really effective.

Cheers

Tony

Thanks Mississippi. I've got the new chassis primed now, so by tonight I'll be back to where I was.

Cheers

Tony

I really like the engine work dogfish.

Tony, sorry to hear about your undercarriage. Good thing you had another.

I have to do a little body work on the right rear top fender on the Nova.  Bright idea=dremel=buffing pad=double-sided scotch tape=sand paper=oops

hehehehehe

I will have to build it back up to the same height as the other side. Who would have thought it would melt that fast. :) At least it fixable.

Here's what I did get done though

Got the under carriage done and axle and springs welded in.

Dry brushed the spring mounts

First coat of paint on the headers.

And got one tire painted, although I might need to go over it again to brighten it up a little.

Until next time,

Eric

Nice work Eric.

The only electric tool I use on plastic now is my good old Ryobi cordless drill. It's the only thing I can get down to a slow enough speed, but even then I use it rarely. It's massive compared to the model.

What paint do you use for the tyre lettering ? I always use acrylic, because someone once told me that enamels won't dry well on them. I've never tried it.

Hope the fender fixes easily for you. I guess that's what we do as modelers, fix our work as we go.

Cheers

Tony