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Reich Defenders IV Group Build: Strike From Above

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  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Wednesday, February 12, 2014 4:30 PM

I managed to complete the decal work on one of the wings today.

Well, almost...

That decal "damage" you can see on the Balkenkreuz is there on purpose. It was impossible to get the decal on top of that large bump on the aileron, so I cut away part of the decal and I'm going to paint that area black after sealing the decals (to make them masking-proof)

My reference pictures of this particular bird actually saved my ass because those damn decal instructions tell you to place all the decals about 1cm further inwards. The only pictures of the lower wing surfaces show them where i put them. What would've been the problem you may wonder now? placing the decals according to the instructions would put the demarcation line between the white and black areas right on top of that bump which would make the touch-up work after cutting the decal a very tough job...

I still have to do some touch-up work on the 9. I accidentöy cut a slice of it off at the bottom end that needs reapinting. Most of it will be covered by the pylon anyway, so nothing to worry about here either.

I'll try to get all the decalling done tomorrow (only the other wing left) and spray the wings with some satin varnish. That allows me to touch-up all the decals and seal the whole model with a coat of Alclad's satin clear. Not much longer untill I can start the weathering and finish her off!

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Tuesday, February 11, 2014 3:50 PM

Not much progress on my side either. I got the fuselage codes and swastikas in place, but i still have to decal the lower wing surfaces. I just hope that area ends up looking good, there are some large raised details right where the decals are supposed to go...

Doug: The Germans had 2 captured Thunderbolts AFAIK and there's a sirprisingly big amount of decent pics of them. I just bought a Kagero book on the P-47 (P-47s with the USAAF - MTO, Asia and Pacific) and that one includes a few pictures of T9+LK (the one I'm not building) as well. I also found a photo that was new to me in a book about JG4 (they got one for practice dogfights as far as I can tell)

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:50 AM

Well didn't get home from work last night til 9:15 so needless to say nothing got done

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Monday, February 10, 2014 6:13 PM

Wow... Clemens, Johnny, Tony... Man 3 good looking builds one after the other! All 3 looking great! I've never built a 129 (that I can remember, but then I'm told thats the first thing to go) I think its about time! Ands Clemens, I think I have your Jug in a book I have called "Flying Colors", Very nice theme!

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Monday, February 10, 2014 5:51 PM

Your 129 looks really good Tony!

Steve

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Monday, February 10, 2014 1:28 PM

I really liek how your 129 looks, Tony! The 2 greens should be very similar AFAIK.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Australia
Posted by taxtp on Sunday, February 9, 2014 9:07 PM

They're looking good. I haven't used the Alclad clear for anything but Alclad.

I like your HS 129 better than mine, but here it is so far anyway. In mine, the two dark greens are hard to tell apart. I hesitated with this, but the Tamiya box top looked similar too. It's not as bad as these photos show.

Cheers

Tony

I'm just taking it one GB at a time.

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:40 PM

Thanks. I'm in the same situation as Clemons. Waiting for paint to dry to put gloss coat on

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:56 AM

Thanks buddy!

I did some touch-up work on the fuselage cross and cut out the rest of the decals. I won't be able to continue decalling though. All that micro-Sol weakened (not dissolved) the Alclad clear a bit, so the model is a bit tacky in places. I'll wait untill tomorrow because the clear coat should've hardened again by then. I'll tackle the landing gear, the prop or the engine today though. Maybe I'll even get to complete all 3 of them...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:36 AM

Some great work there guys, both builds are looking really nice.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 AM

Thnks for the encouraging words! I'll probably touch up the decal around the edges and let the wash take care of any other imperfections.

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Sunday, February 9, 2014 10:45 AM

Clemens - your decals look really good.  I think the left fuselage cross looks pretty good.  Once you clear coat and weather, I would think that it will look just fine.

tempest - very nice job on the splinter camo!  

Steve

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, February 9, 2014 10:43 AM

Looking really good, John!

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Sunday, February 9, 2014 10:32 AM

Got the schwarzgrun on and unmasked.

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, February 9, 2014 10:20 AM

Time for some pictures. I still have to add the swastikas, the fuselage codes and the decals on the lower wing surfaces (those are going to cause me a lot of trouble)

I lost one tiny stencilling decal for the right fuselage side, but I doubt anyone is going to notice it unless it is pointed out:

One of the red frames around the access hatches (the one at the top) is slightly off, but moving it to the correct position would've destroyed the decal.

Right fuselage cross:

It's not perfect, but I'm confident that the clear coat on top and the washing are going to take care of any minor flaws.

Left fuselage cross:

That was my first try on the crosses and the decal ended up being damaged quite a bit. The edges are easy to touch up with some black and white Vallejo paint, but I'm worried about the lower left corner. Any tips on how to get it to look a bit better/hide the damage?

Wing stencilling (both wings are the same):

Left fuselage side:

You can actually read all the stencilling if you look close enough. Tamiya did an outstanding job on printing those decals. The data plate on the fuselage is completely wrong for this aircraft of course (D-5-RE instead of D-2-RA), but I don't really care about tiny flaws like that. Not to mention that I have no clue on where I could get a correct decal (which wouldn't be worth the money anyway IMO).

Cheers, Clemens 


 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Sunday, February 9, 2014 9:49 AM

SS - I'm glad you got our decal situation fixed!  The side vents/air outlets can make things difficult when decaling the sides of the Jug.  

Got my wash on over the future.  I brushed the future on in two layers and didn't see any paint come off after using cotton buds dipped in windex.  I hope the Flory products are delivered this week - Sprue Brothers was out and I had to order direct from Flory.  It usually takes 7-10 days to get orders to the US.  

Now I need to add several clear parts and the rear canopies/machine guns.

Steve

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Sunday, February 9, 2014 9:11 AM

The 2nd fuselage cross is on. I had to apply a lot of Micro-Sol to sofen it enough, but that also damaged it around the edges of the air outlet. I just hope it isn't that visible sfter the clear coat and some weathering...

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:40 PM

I ended up havng to cut the decal. It got distorted a wee bit, but it's not really noticeble unless you hold a perfectly intact cross next to it and look really closely Wink I have to do some touch-ups on the black areas, but that shouldn't be too hard to duo (just brush some Vallejo black on)

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:23 PM

I'm having some pretty bad luck today. As soon as I solve one problem, I find another one. The crosses on the fuselage sides go right over the huge air vents (for the turbocharger?). They are recessed quite a bit when closed, so getting the decal to snuggle down properly is going to be a challenge. I hope i can soften it enough with several applications of Micro-Sol because I really don't want to cut it.It's looking pretty good after the first application already, so I think it might actually work!

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:13 PM

Phew -- problem solved! M

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:54 PM

I quicly compared what's laeft of the LF swastikas with the ones I just found and it looks like my Jug had 900mm ones painted on.

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:52 PM

Guess what:

Whe I pulled the EagleCals set out of it's bag to check if the swastikas I was talking about were really not used, something fell out of the folded decal instructions:

My small sheet of AM swastikas!!!

I have no clue what company they are made of because I one of they guys at my LHS gave them to me. He bought a set of swastikas in different scales, but he only builds 1/72 models, so he just gave me all the 1/48 ones Big Smile It includes swastikas in different styles:

  • Black (4 of each size)
  • White (2 each)
  • Black with white border (2 each)
  • Black with white and balc double-border (2 each)

The sizes supplied are 1000mm, 900mm, 800mm and some that are a bit smaller than the 800s smaller (different styles here)

Looks like my problem just solved itself Big Smile

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:41 PM

Thanks for the nice words, Mike! I'll do some research on Techmod.

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:33 PM

No worries, mate, we entirely understand all you're saying, as in all conscience we're all faced with the same thing, and in a variety of contexts. Your opting for historical accuracy is probably the decision we all make, and on the same grounds.

Pity about your decal woes! Register is a pain, sometimes you have to go with a slight offset. For the replacement crooked-crosses, TechMod in Poland make very good quality balkenkreutzer sheets, they might make the others too -- not sure, better Google it!

Take whatever time you need, this will be a masterpiece!

M/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:16 PM

I just had a look at one of my EagleCals sheets for a bunch of Doras and there are in fact 2 additional swastikas on there that are only slightly smaller than the LF-Model ones. the size difference is approximately 0.75mm in both directions. Should I just use those ones instead in order to not wait 1 week or something for any replacements to arrive?

I'll order those replacement swastikas anyway though. I'm always lacking a bunch of them and I have plenty of Luftwaffe birds n my stash. Can anyone recommend a set that is of good quality (or a set of masks if those are better).

Just to make things clear: I'm absolutely disgusted by the things the *** did and I'm very happy I was born after that era. Not to mention how ashamed I am that the Austrian people were in fact involved in those actions. I do however want to recreate my Luftwaffe models as accurate as possible, so I will use swastikas on all my German WW2 aircraft becauseit is simply a neutral symbol misused by the *** and it has no personal meaning to me. (Sorry about that, but as an Austrian I just feel the need to clarify this, although I'm pretty sure all of you know it anway)

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:06 PM

Only a text update for now:

I got all the Tamiya decals (only stencilling) on the model. They are a bit on the thick side but the 2 clear coats before and after should blend them in nicely. I also applied a small amount of micro sol on all the decals.

Then I started to get those LF-Model decals in place and I'm not too convinced with how they handle: They are not pre-cut which wouldn't be a problem on its own, but it really is a royal pain in the Censored to cut them out because the ink is applied in such thin layers that you scratch all of it away as soon as you touch them with any sharp object. The decal film is extremely thin too, which is really nice, but causes some prblems with applying the larger decals (the crosses used on the Jug are quite huge). Another problem is the fact that the black is printed slightlly offset compared to the white, which doesn't look bad on the decal sheet, but it becomes really noticeable with the OD background of the upper surfaces. It's not a huge concern, but I have to trim the decals after application which is another step that could've been avoided. I don't have only bad things to say about the decals though. Once in place and trimmed, they look almost as if they were painted on, even without a clear coat on top.

So far I managed to get one of the top wing crosses on as well as the liitle triangles on the nose that indicate the fuel used (the 100 probably means 100 octane fuel?)

Now the bad news: I wasn't able to use the swastikas supplied with that decal sheet. They desintegrated as soon as I tried to slide them off the backing paper. Why is that a problem? Well, I don't have any damn replacements! The only swastikas I have are from a few of the 1/48 Fw 190 kits i have in my stash. Almost all the kits I can get my hands on come from Germany and as you might know, the swastika is strictly banned there. That means that all my kits are missing them. Swastikas are my most precious decals because it is so hard to get them here and I want to build my models as accurate as possible which involves them being on the tail fin (they are allowed in Austria only for historically correct representation of a modelling subject AFAIK - the best law i have yet to hear of Wink) Well, back to those 190 swastikas: They are too damn small! Way too small! Looks like I have to order me a decal set of swastikas, so no weathering untill they arrive... Bang Head

while I was ranting about me being too clumsy to handle big, fragile decals and the ban of swastikas in Germany, the Micro-Sol on the one cross I put on dried and it looks perfect! It snuggled down nicely into all the panel lines without even slightly obscuring them!

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:53 PM

Looking good John! Neat to hear everyone's techniques. Sanderson- Gunze Mr. color gloss might work, but if your gonna use Flory washes, they don't need to be wiped clean with windex, only water, or just lick the paper towel and wipe them away.

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:43 PM

Great work on the 129, John!

My usual progress is very similar to Mike's:

  1. spray Alclad clear gloss
  2. apply decals
  3. seal decals with Alclad gloss or satin clear coat (I use the satin one only for models I want to look a bit more dirty)
  4. apply Flory wash
  5. Add some pigments and/or more flory wash for additional streaking if necessary
  6. seal everything with alclad flat clear (I'll have to replace that one with something else because it is too flat for my taste) 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:29 PM

I'd forgotten how much masking had to be done on Luftwaffe hard splinter camo

 

  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by Thunderbolt379 on Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:24 PM

Hi guys -- this is a very productive discussion of chemistry! I'll add my usual technique -- Tamiya or MM acrylics followed by Microscale clear (also water-based acrylics), followed by Florey (Promodeller when I bought them) panel washes, sealed with more Microscale clear. I've followed this procedure eleven times to date and the only times I've had issues they had  nothing to do with the chemistry as such -- Fujimi 1980s panel lines are too fine for the wash to stay in, and my airbrush was giving trouble which caused a spatter effect in the clear coat, which needs sanding back with the old 2000-grit/liquid soap trick...

John -- the 129 is coming along great, I love it when a model gets to this stage!

M/TB379

http://worldinminiature.blogspot.com/

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