Wayne my M-12 and M-40 are painted with a Lifecolor mix or a Tamiya mix. I thought I would see what I could come up with using a Vallejo mix on this M-43.

All in Fun

Tony lee

Looks good Tony, you're traveling right along!

Update time

I scratch built a rear travel lock.

Later folks

Hello everybody.

Thanks for your compliments.

This is the latest update, finally finished the assembling which required a PhD in fitting.

Anyway, with the base color it starting to look goooood.....

I will add the firts cammo HOPEFULLY this week. Work has being a nightmare and also have to split my time between travelling and a family, including a 10 yo....

Ok, so back to business here we are:

I made this color, since I do not have NATO colors, currently on a tight budget so a man has to work with whatever you have on your hands...if you have lemons....

In fact I do like this color.

Garzonh -- looking very good indeed!!! Really looking forward to seeing the camo evolve!

Mike/TB379

Color looks Great

Fit looks square and plum

Carry on trooper

Tony lee

She looks really good, Garzonh!

Tony & Garzonh: Those are looking nice guys!

Here's my progress of Dragon's Oswind (Smart Kit). Just click on the photo to see the entire album.

I'll get more pics up tomorrow.

looking good. i am going to have to experiment with different paints as soon as i get done experimenting with washes and various weathering techniques. i could throw my JGSDF TYPE 87 35mm SPAA in this for a threefer.

Try Army Painter primer, a rattle can goes a long way, about  $12 on ebay. I use Tamiya acrylic and it really holds the paint nice. Sometimes I use a dark red primer, that give a little different hue.

Knocked that step in the head. Makes you feel good don't it?

See Ya Later

Jibber, starting to loog good.

I yet have to build a Dragon kit, probably the new M103

Tony, what can I say...you always make your kits detailed and an a lot of patience.

Keeping an eye on yours..

Update...

As mentioned in Armor, not looking good.... camo did not come out as expected, had a lot of problems with airbrush. I will lay the second camo color by mid week, and just close out the project. 

Will be the first kit withou any weathering, just not worth it.

I finally got my *** back into modelling.

The M7 Priest I'm doing is for the most part assembled.

It was a bit of a buggar, with vague instructions and no real placement details.  I got alot done today even with multiple breaks going back and reviewing walk around photos.

Has anyone built this kit before?  I have one part that I can't figure out, can't see on any photo and I don't want it slowing up my momentum.  I may just leave it off........

Chris i'm building the 1/35th Priest so what part or parts are giving you the problem?

Garz: If you have some more of the green you can hold the nozzle over the yellow and spray back toward the green and cover a lot of your over spray. Lower air pressure and get close is the ticket.

Next thin the green about 90% and mist the whole model. This will blend all your micro yellow over spray in plus give the paint job a faded effect.

HTH

Tony lee

Its the step that involves part 68.

Looks like its straight forward buts its a straight piece on a curve that doesn't make sense.

That seems to be your instrument panel buddy. Goes here:

May sense for you?

Great progress gents!

Garzonh -- I was about to say the same as Tony, I've gone 5 rounds with overspray before -- the King Tiger I finished not long ago for Steel Cats was a finicky camo pattern and I had trouble controlling the relative weights of the lines, including blobbing and spatter at times. My technique was to go down to the finest tip and needle, extend the thinning of the paint a bit and crank the pressure high, then dribble the paint through at a low ratio to the air (I use a double action AB). Another approach for beating the overspray is to cut masks for the yellow areas and lay them over the existing paint, using blutac to hold them clear of the surface, then lightly recoat with green, spraying perpendicular to the surface, that should clean things up nicely. Then on with well-thinned shade-and-fade coats as required and you're rockin'!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Try following Dragon's steps, wrong and mislabeled parts, phantom sprue's and all.  

Pvt Mutt

That seems to be your instrument panel buddy. Goes here:

May sense for you?

Tony lee

That makes perfect sense now!

Thanks

And that's a mighty fine looking M7 there

Thanks Chris

Decals are next

M-7 Sexton

Tony lee

Chris: Nice, you're moving right along there.

Tony: Nice looking Priests, I don't remember you posting those or maybe I did and forgot! Anyway, excellent work!

i know how you feel, i have enough shelf queens to attest to that.

from recent experiences, i would do the noted suggestions on fixing the paint, adding your 3rd color, leave it for a day or 2 and consider doing some light weathering with oil pin washes and filters, they can help hide some errors and,since you don't like it anyway, a good practice piece. you may be able to hide some of the overspray by putting the 3rd color there. it may turn out better than you think

both look really nice. how did you do the stowage on the front slope and back deck? most of the time(and all of my time) the plastic moulded pieces look like plastic and fake

In answer to Wayne's question:

" How did you do the stowage on the front slope and back deck? most of the time(and all of my time) the plastic moulded pieces look like plastic and fake"

Up Date Time

Put some base color on today, Vallejo Olive Drab. Lower tub and bogies over sprayed with Dark Earth as a base for the weathering.

Later

Hey, back here...

Tony, thanks for your advice...

Indeed I layed down the third camo color that went to be to black so I layed down a clearer green, which I think gave it depth, so things started to go much better. Finally made a very light green and thinned it a lot, then sprayed the whole model from far away, and it gave that used, faded look. Since I will also add some dust , drybrush, pigments and such...everything should blend in.

I do miss a figure in the model... too bad.

Garz now you can thin some "Buff" 90% and spray that from about a foot away all over and that will give you that dusty look.

Do it with several coats allowing it to dry before adding the next coat so you don't over do it,sneak up on the dusty effect you're happy with.

Lookin much better buddy

Tony lee