Hey Jibber, could you do me a favor and take a close-up pic of the muzzle brake?

here is the latest on DANA. yes that is american institution pukey green (MMA pale green). seems to be the correct color. nothing uber elaborate but i will be doing A LOT of sub assy and sub-sub assy painting when i build the next one and all future warwheels. just too many nooks and crannies to paint after assembly. the front suspension (with the wheels) has been oil washed with artist oil raw umber and highlighted a bit with black. contrast that with the rear suspension which is still freshly painted. under the fenders looks a little rough but won't be seen anyway. will pin wash the differentials with light gray to highlight a bit (for practice) before airbrushing a mix of dirt and grime which will probably hide all of that

engine didn't turn out great but no one will see it on this build. ps there isn't a pic of it. DON'T PANIC.

The gunners seat in real life looks like it would fold down, but in the kit the back brace and rest are stationary. How in the heck did I miss the sight being that far off....what an idiot. Wayne this is the only sight provided and by the looks of it they would shoot their driver if I don't fix it.  

looked at the gun more closely here. i guess the seats on the left side are for the crew. obviously the toweed gun didn't have those. it looks like the seat back on the right side (gunner seat) forward of the cage is folded down. mine does in travel mode but the cage is dismantled too so not sure why yours would be. i had 2 sights with mine, the "box" and the open with telescope.

or i'm seeing things.

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Finished up the main gun. I had a difficult time attaching the "shell cage" thats surrounded in PE, but I ended up doing it in small sections and working slow. Then assembly, primer and I finished it with MM gun metal, flat gray and blue and used a AK blue wash. I just noticed the clear gun sight is slightly off, I'll have to correct that, then I attached the pre-assembled wheels and sprayed the first coat with Tamiya XF60. Ready for final assembly, camo and all the rest.   

there is also a MMA (model master acrylic) panzer interior which is a buff or MMA dirt. i won a set of REAL DEAL weathering piants and tried that on a canadian GRIZZLEY 6x6. i have not tried airbrushing vallejo but want to. will be dusting the suspension of DANA today and will post picks.

Hugo, Buff is a very very light tan or off white color. I use Tamiya "Buff".

Get a Double Action air brush if possible.  Push button down for air, Pull button back for paint.

Be sure you get a water trap air filter either on the air tank or at the air brush. I have both on my rig.

Tony lee

My friend Tony.

I'm sorry to ask, what is buff?, what is the mix of that magic potion you preserve from ancient knowledge. Im so novice at some times. Remember this is my 4th tank....still looooooong way to learn.

I think the problem with my AB spitting is that my AB hose has a leak at some connector which makes air to get condensed at lot, cause at first is not that bad, but it just gets worse and the AB just end spitting worse than a camel or llama.

Now that my CFO has seen my work I will put into Santas list a new compressor with an incorporated tank and single action AB.

Thank you again.

Hugo

Garz now you can thin some "Buff" 90% and spray that from about a foot away all over and that will give you that dusty look.

Do it with several coats allowing it to dry before adding the next coat so you don't over do it,sneak up on the dusty effect you're happy with.

Lookin much better buddy

Tony lee

Hey, back here...

Tony, thanks for your advice...

Indeed I layed down the third camo color that went to be to black so I layed down a clearer green, which I think gave it depth, so things started to go much better. Finally made a very light green and thinned it a lot, then sprayed the whole model from far away, and it gave that used, faded look. Since I will also add some dust , drybrush, pigments and such...everything should blend in.

I do miss a figure in the model... too bad.

Up Date Time

Put some base color on today, Vallejo Olive Drab. Lower tub and bogies over sprayed with Dark Earth as a base for the weathering.

Later

In answer to Wayne's question:

" How did you do the stowage on the front slope and back deck? most of the time(and all of my time) the plastic moulded pieces look like plastic and fake"

both look really nice. how did you do the stowage on the front slope and back deck? most of the time(and all of my time) the plastic moulded pieces look like plastic and fake

i know how you feel, i have enough shelf queens to attest to that.

from recent experiences, i would do the noted suggestions on fixing the paint, adding your 3rd color, leave it for a day or 2 and consider doing some light weathering with oil pin washes and filters, they can help hide some errors and,since you don't like it anyway, a good practice piece. you may be able to hide some of the overspray by putting the 3rd color there. it may turn out better than you think

Chris: Nice, you're moving right along there.

Tony: Nice looking Priests, I don't remember you posting those or maybe I did and forgot! Anyway, excellent work!

Thanks Chris

Decals are next

M-7 Sexton

Tony lee

Pvt Mutt

That seems to be your instrument panel buddy. Goes here:

May sense for you?

Tony lee

That makes perfect sense now!

Thanks

And that's a mighty fine looking M7 there

Try following Dragon's steps, wrong and mislabeled parts, phantom sprue's and all.  

Great progress gents!

Garzonh -- I was about to say the same as Tony, I've gone 5 rounds with overspray before -- the King Tiger I finished not long ago for Steel Cats was a finicky camo pattern and I had trouble controlling the relative weights of the lines, including blobbing and spatter at times. My technique was to go down to the finest tip and needle, extend the thinning of the paint a bit and crank the pressure high, then dribble the paint through at a low ratio to the air (I use a double action AB). Another approach for beating the overspray is to cut masks for the yellow areas and lay them over the existing paint, using blutac to hold them clear of the surface, then lightly recoat with green, spraying perpendicular to the surface, that should clean things up nicely. Then on with well-thinned shade-and-fade coats as required and you're rockin'!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

That seems to be your instrument panel buddy. Goes here:

May sense for you?

Its the step that involves part 68.

Looks like its straight forward buts its a straight piece on a curve that doesn't make sense.

Chris i'm building the 1/35th Priest so what part or parts are giving you the problem?

Garz: If you have some more of the green you can hold the nozzle over the yellow and spray back toward the green and cover a lot of your over spray. Lower air pressure and get close is the ticket.

Next thin the green about 90% and mist the whole model. This will blend all your micro yellow over spray in plus give the paint job a faded effect.

HTH

Tony lee

I finally got my *** back into modelling.

The M7 Priest I'm doing is for the most part assembled.

It was a bit of a buggar, with vague instructions and no real placement details.  I got alot done today even with multiple breaks going back and reviewing walk around photos.

Has anyone built this kit before?  I have one part that I can't figure out, can't see on any photo and I don't want it slowing up my momentum.  I may just leave it off........

Update...

As mentioned in Armor, not looking good.... camo did not come out as expected, had a lot of problems with airbrush. I will lay the second camo color by mid week, and just close out the project. 

Will be the first kit withou any weathering, just not worth it.

Jibber, starting to loog good.

I yet have to build a Dragon kit, probably the new M103

Tony, what can I say...you always make your kits detailed and an a lot of patience.

Keeping an eye on yours..

Knocked that step in the head. Makes you feel good don't it?

See Ya Later

Try Army Painter primer, a rattle can goes a long way, about  $12 on ebay. I use Tamiya acrylic and it really holds the paint nice. Sometimes I use a dark red primer, that give a little different hue.

looking good. i am going to have to experiment with different paints as soon as i get done experimenting with washes and various weathering techniques. i could throw my JGSDF TYPE 87 35mm SPAA in this for a threefer.

I'll get more pics up tomorrow.

Here's my progress of Dragon's Oswind (Smart Kit). Just click on the photo to see the entire album.