Oh somehow I missed your Panzerfunkwagen Jibber, very nice work there! And I'd guess it's certainly possible someone grabbed a naval ensign and tossed it on top there.

Good work all around guys- I'll skip individual comments for fear of leaving someone out!

PS: Tracks are on the Crusader, now to the sand shields. Hopefully photos this weekend. 

[/URL[URL=http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/kingtiger11/media/M3%20Grant/DSC00053_zpsd6b73b9c.jpg.html]

A couple shots of my M3 Grant. I always have trouble with coloring and shading, though theres a lot of video and even a few in color, the shades are very hard to determine, anyway, I added a photo of the M3 before shading then afterwards. I hope I got it close.  

the troops were moved quickly from europe to north africa. since they knew from france and poland about a/c recognition, i think some veteran vehicle commander chatted it up with one of the senior chiefs on the transport and they gave him one. that's how i would write it up.

Jibber, I like the colours you choose, they fall well within the parameters that Starmer has researched.  The dusting looks a bit haphazard, is that what you are having trouble with?

regards,

Jack

I tried to spread it on then brush it into areas where I think it's most needed. I didn't see until after I took the pics the dusting looked awkward.  

jibber:  the camo on the M3 looks fine!  But agree with Jack that the dust application needs to be more uniform.  I have used Tamiya Buff, highly diluted to blend the base camouflage, then use pigments to increase the dust effect to the level that you desire. 

Dan (armor86):  I'm not familiar with the AK product line.  Can you describe what their "dusting effects" and "streaking grime" really are?  The final effects look great!  Also, didn't realize that your 8 rad was just the appetizer to your PzIV ausfD entree.

Jester:  really like the Bison.  Keep up the good work.

Bish:  Even though you must be very busy with other GBs, when are we going to see your contribution? 

Don

I'm at that stage where alot of hours seems to yield little forward progress...  

Finally had some warmer weather in Louisville to let me start to prime the PzIII and  pre-shade...

Actually, I changed my mind and decided to do do a North Afrikan winter camo scheme...  

Also, spent 3 hours last Friday painting these...

Outsides are RAL8020 (or a reasonable facsimile, I hope) and insides (which you can't see ) are red oxide primer.  Lots of recipes online for making red oxide using Tamiya acrylics... I think that mixing 3 parts flat red with one part hull red is a reasonable match, especially over a white primer.

Also worked on the tools and drive train, ...

and finally, the Friul tracks; assembled and primed with Mr. Surfacer 1200.

Next up... the base coat of RAL8020.

Don

Tigerman, I couldn't agree more with Jgeratic and pordoi that the weathering on my M3 looks haphazard and not up to my standards. I'll work on the tank and re-shoot another set of shots, so please don't use the pics I posted. It's funny what you see on camera that you miss on the bench. Thank you both for the input.

Terry

Don, love the shading. Did you spray or brush on the 1200? I use the 500 and 1000 for other things, but people here have discussed that Mr Surfacer makes a good primer. Is there an advantage with it and if you did airbrush, did you thin it? With what? I couldn't imagine putting the 1000 through an airbrush, is the 1200 that much thinner?

jibber

I tried to spread it on then brush it into areas where I think it's most needed. I didn't see until after I took the pics the dusting looked awkward.  

and a perfect example of how to use photographs during a build. i once missed weatering the entire right side of a KV-II turret, no easy feat, until i looked at some pics.  for all of us let's keep in mind zooming in on a picture will ID boggers that are invisible to the naked eye.

jibber

I'll ... re-shoot another set of shots, so please don't use the pics I posted.

Terry

Terry,

There is really no need  to remove the original pics.  Just offering suggestions that might give you alternatives to weathering.  In the end, you will decide what is best for you and your style.  One of the great benefits of this formum is that you will receive feedback from individuals who view your  build from many different perspectives.  Whether you agree or disagree with their comments is up to you. 

Don

Jibber: Looks cool! I'm still not too good with the whole dust thing so sorry I can't help much there.

Dan: Really nice work! The Friul tracks look super cool there.

jibber

Did you spray or brush on the 1200?

Yes, sprayed the 1200 from a rattle can.   I think that a lacquer based primer binds better to metal that acrylic, so I prime with either Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya primer before painting with acrylics.  I have used the 500 for gap filling; but usually with a brush, sometimes thinning with a lacquer thinner.  To answer your question, I would think that the 1200 can easily be applied with an airbrush (should be no different that applying via a rattle can; maybe consider thinning with lacquer thinner if necessary) .  I haven't tried airbrushing the 500.

Don

I almost always paint with Tamiya acrylics and use their primer or Army Painter, either works great but I'll give the 1200 a try. Thanks for the info.

Terry, have you tried the popular dot-filter method yet? That would be something to look into.

Don - AK Interactive offers numerous products for scale modellers - suggest Google search 'ak interactive' and check them out - the Dust effects / washes is an enamel base product that provides specific washes for modelling. The enamel washes blend easily to achieve many effects such as rust, rain marks, grime, and many others. By using a white spirit 'thinner' you can control the effects or tone down the effects. Apply a light coat over your vehicle and afterwards retouch it with a brush and a little White Spirit. Apply it irregularly trying to let it accumulate in gaps and around the details. Don't need to use their specific thinners. REMEMBER if you are using an enamel product as primary color (Model Master Enamel) you will need to seal it first before applying a wash / weather effect.

Yeah signed up to build an Armor Car (Sd 232) in September on Armorama and have been plugging along. Added some more photo etch and tools to it. Muffler shield installed after painting and rusting the muffler. Primer tight spots and corners and weld seems. Photos below.

AK Interactive Africa Dust Effects is an Dust wash for Africa (AK 022). I have also used both MIG and AK pigments and mix with water and brush it on the vehicle and allow it to dry. Once dry use a stiff brush and remove it until you like the effect. MIG Gulf War Sand (P037) and Light Dust (P027) come close to North Africa dust.  Another brand 'Modelmakerz' pigment powder Dessert Sand and Mustard color. AK also offers one too! To seal them you can use a fixer adhesive. The Panzer III Ausf. J's dusting effects was a combination of washes and pigments. On the Tiger I used a Dark Steel on the Road Wheel's bolts to give it a worn look.

Finish - after dusting with washes and pigments.

Before

Dan, that's looking really good. I copied your idea for the weld seams on my current build, an 88. I am really pleased with the results. I already have the AK DAK weathering set, filter, wash and streaking grime. I have just ordered the dust effects and pigments. Going to try them out on the 88 first, I have only used a couple of the dust effects and streaking products so far. By the time I get to the Pz III, I should have an idea of what I am doing. I love the results you have got with those builds.

Don, its on route. Got my 88 to finish, then a Panther for the D-Day GB. The Pz III will be after that. All going well, should be started by the beginning of April, should just give me enough time. I am hoping I can finish it as a complete dio, I have a base and some figures, just got a Verlinden figure set to get.

Been reading your comments on primer. I normally don't use it, but on the two figures I am doing, I thought I should. I got hold of some Humbrol acrylic primer from the LHS, but have been looking at various options. I was thinking of trying the Alclad Acrylic primer, but the Mr Surfacer was another option, just wasn't sure if the 1200 would airbrush. Did I understand it right, the Mr surface is a lacquer product.

Tigerman, I use the dot filter occasionally, actually I've used it twice, once on a Sherman and an Abrahms. I had better results withe Sherman where I mixed three different oil colors, white, brown and light green but the sand colored Abrahms was a different story. I like using the right color "dust effects" on certain vehicles which is  why I used it on my Panzerfunkwagen and the M3 but the green camo on the M3 showed brush streaks that I should have noticed and smoothed out. I studied two hours last night on old videos, photo's books etc on North Africa Campaigns to include modern vehicles and almost all of them are covered in sand and dust. That was the effect I was trying to get on these two vehicles. It worked on the 8 Rad but not so much on the M3. I have the right oils for sand colored AFV's but I didn't think I could get the same dust effect with them. But I really need to spend more time with dot filters and dry brushing, seems I'm missing a lot. I'll leave it up to you whether you want to use those M3 pics.

Thanks.

I love all the back and forth on these techniques.

Jibber: I really like those weathered colors on your M3!

Don: Very nice work! The tools and roadwheels look really sharp!

Dan: Great work!

Bish:  You are correct that Mr. Surfacer is a lacquer based product.  Locally, I have found the 500 and 1000 in 40ml bottles but the 1200 I have only seen in rattle cans.  It is also available in the 40ml bottles; just that my LHS doesn't seem to carry them.  Its availability is spotty but when I do find some, it's one of my favorite primers.  It sprays very easily out of can, so my guess is that it would airbrush equally as well if decanted, or diluted with lacquer thinner from the bottle, if necessary.  It also has a neutral gray color so it's not likely to influence the color of your main coats. 

Dan (armor86):  Sorry, I didn't ask my question clearly.  I know of the AK products but have never seen or worked with them.  Are they simply highly diluted paints/pigment solutions?  And is their advantage just mainly in convenience over making ones own, or do they contain unique ingredients that make them easier to work with or easier to achieve the desired effects?  Also, nice progress on the Sd232!

After our 60 degree day on Saturday, we're now under a winter storm warning for heavy snow tonight.  I might just end up with some unexpected bench time tomorrow if the forecast holds!

Don

What color would you guys recommend for a British Matilda MkII antenna? I was thinking the base coat desert yellow but online sources said some were painted pale colors to match the skyline.  Either way I will try to post some pictures tonight.  Thanks for the help!

Thanks Don, my LHS doesn't carry it either. But there are a couple of UK based on line sources that have it. I have just come across a 1500, which I hadn't heard of before.

Don - I would say AK paints / weathering washes are composed of pigments specific to their theme to fit unique subject matter - DAK wash, color filter specific to German DAK vehicles, stains, or desert dust conditions. Note they are expanding their line for other modeling subjects. The paints / washes can be used right out of jar, however I would use additional thinner to get the effects right. I have use several different oils before with thinner for washes / dot method for filtering / wore paint look and still do but I fine I get the effect better. Example the Pz IV was completed using oils, dot method (three colors), and pigments & water. The Tiger and Pz III was mostly completed with AK washes & filters. I would highly suggest the DAK Wash and DAK Filter. There are several u-tube demo videos available.  Armor86

Progress so far:

Comments/Critiques welcome

Thunderbolt is going to add a Bf-109 F to the GB. I'm open to that. I love Luftwaffe planes in the desert scheme. If anyone would like to add a plane, please feel free.

I still haven't started.  No excuses. Maybe after the game. This looks like a cool tank and I wrecked my Tamiya III L in my move.

udel09 -- one sweet Matilda!!!

Tigerman -- many thank for giving me the go-ahead, it's hasegawa's 1:48th scale Bf 109 f/Trop, and I'll probably use Eaglestrike 48-078 "Jagdwaffe over the Sahara" for the markings (AM okay?) I've already got basic cockpit assembly done and sprayed into RLM 66, and am researching the F cockpit for what instrument colours to use.

I'll have a photo or two up later,

Cheers, M/TB379

Udel109, nice looking Matilda. should look great when finished.

Ohhh Udel, yes that is one nice lookin' Matilda!

Eric: Lol, just one road wheel at a time my friend!

Well, here's my Crusader with the treads and sand shields on. I still need to apply the wash to the shields. She's a little darker than I wanted, I tried something different by applying a sludge wash of Flory 'Dark Dirt' and scrubbing it off instead of a pin wash. The results are well... I sorta like it and sorta hate it. We'll have to see what the finished results are:

Udel: Great looking Matilda!

Cliff: I really like how your crusader looks!