SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

1944 Group Build

132355 views
1959 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, September 6, 2014 4:31 PM

Nomad, no worries, I will do it shortly.

Check, I can just image the tie it takes to mask that. Looking pretty good from here.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 1:00 PM

Thanks, Bish.  Today I plan to paint the base for the aft 16-inch gun, then trim the stern so the deck fits inside the hull (I thought it did, but--like the waterline plate--it doesn't).

So until the paint dries, I can take a holiday from masking for a day or so.  

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 1:55 PM

Hey all, I think I am going to build the USS Missouri. I picked up the Revell 1/535 kit and really do not know how to go about getting this thing painted. This will be the first ship I have built.

I do know that the Missouri had the measure 32/22D camo on it in 1944 and have drawings of the pattern. I just do not know on how to get going on this kit.

Any help would be appreciated.

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 2:38 PM

Hi, Doug:

I looked up USS Missouri in Measure 32 on line, and she looks like a variation of North Carolina's Measure 32.  Even though your Mo is in a bigger scale, I think the same techniques I used for USSNC should work

I haven't got any further than the main deck, so I can't tell you from experience how I'm going to do that, but what I can describe is how I did the hull and the deck.

Since you've got drawings of the pattern, that's a good place to start.  Hopefully you have them as jpgs on your computer.  If not, you can scan them or find some on the internet.

I used the Publisher program to insert a jpg of the camouflage diagram, then resized it to the measurements of the kit.  I measured the kit hull from stem to stern, then used the rulers in the Publisher program to resize the diagram.  Print this out on paper.

Next, tear off a sheet of masking tape long enough to accommodate the whole diagram in full size.  Get some wide painters tape from the hardware store or Walmart.  I like Duck brand.  Two inches is big enough for 1/700--I don't know about 1/535.

Lay down a couple of strips of masking tape on top of the wax paper, long enough to accommodate the ship from stem to stern.

Now trim the paper diagram of the hull close to the outline and lay it out on the masking tape.  Use clear strapping/packaging tape to hold the paper diagram to the masking tape.

When you're done, you'll have layers of (from bottom to top):  wax paper/masking tape/printed diagram/clear packaging tape.

You can use a scissors or a knife to cut out the whole thing, following the outline on the diagram.  The packaging tape and diagram will fall away when you're done cutting, leaving you with the masking tape stuck to the wax paper.

Peel away the wax paper, discard it; and the masking tape will be your paint mask, cut to shape.

I also have used this method with RAF Spitfire and Hurricane camouflage patterns.

For USSNC, I painted the entire hull in the lightest color, 5-L Light Gray.  When it was dry, I started at the bow, and used the masks I made to mask off the 5-L, and I painted the next color, 5-O Ocean Gray.

Once that was dry, I applied the proper masks to the 5-O.  You'll probably also have to apply more strips of masking tape where the 5-L and 5-O masks join.  There's a seam there that you don't want any of the last color, black, to get into.

Once the 5-L and 5-O areas are masked, apply the black.

I should have mentioned earlier that I painted the black boot stripe first--or rather, I painted the whole bottom up to the boot line first.  My USSNC is a waterline version.  Then mask the boot stripe and proceed as above with the hull colors.  

Hope this isn't too long or too complicated.  It's hard to describe and I didn't take any more photos than what I posted earlier.  This method should work for you as well as it did for me.

If I can provide any further information, I'll be glad to.

As far as the deck fittings, like gun tubs, etc.  I cut small strips of the masking tape and applied them around the tubs and fittings, then stuck a little poster tack on top to block paint spray.  You can see this in some of the photos.

It's long and tedious to do it this way, but I can paint better with an airbrush than a paintbrush, so I try to do only a minimal of touch up by hand.

Good luck with the Mighty Mo!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 2:43 PM

The photos of masking the deck fittings is here, on this page of the 1944 GB.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/157489.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=78

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 4:34 PM

Thanks checkmateking

Sounds good to me but when I enlarge the jpeg it throws the focus out so bad that the lines are hard to trace. The hull is 20" long.

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 5:36 PM

I see.  That's a pretty big ship!

Would it work to enlarge the jpg, then go over the blurry lines with a pen or marker to make them clearer?

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, September 7, 2014 10:38 PM

Not very pretty pictures, but here are a couple of photos showing masking the base of the superstructure and surrounding gun placements.

I finished this off and painted the nearby deck yesterday, but I need to leave the aft masks on while I paint the aft deck.  Don't know if I'll be able to get to it Monday; might have to wait till Tuesday.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Monday, September 8, 2014 6:40 AM

checkmateking02

I see.  That's a pretty big ship!

Would it work to enlarge the jpg, then go over the blurry lines with a pen or marker to make them clearer?

I have tried everything under the sun to get the right scale and am not having any luck. I have ran my printer out of ink. I eather get it to big or two small and when I do get the right size it does not pdrint the whole thing. This is driving me nuts.

also can you take a pic of the side of the hull (close up) and show me the water line and below?

Thanks,

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, September 8, 2014 8:28 AM

Doug:

I'm building the NC as a waterline model, so there isn't anything below the waterline.  The ship sits flat on a "plate."  The kit has an optional hull, but I'm not using it.  Still, I can take a hull photo and post it.

I measured NC's hull right down the centerline from bow to stern and it came out very close to the right size.  Sometimes it does take a lot of fussing around to get the diagram the right size.  

If the model is longer than the paper, once I have the right size, I copy it and paste in a second diagram, the arrange it on the paper so there's two;  one from front to back and one from back to front.

This website has some clear diagrams of certain camouflage patterns, including Missouri.  He sells masks, but not in your scale:

www.gatorsmask.com/bb.html

Have to get to work, but I'll check back in later this evening.  Hope things will start working better for you!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, September 8, 2014 11:01 AM

Nomad I have added your Tiger to the temp roster and added the USS Missouri as well.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, September 8, 2014 9:14 PM

Doug:

here are photos of the hull; not the same ones I posted earlier.  Can't get any closer and still include the whole hull.

Not sure how useful they'll be to you.  I used the mask making process I described earlier to paint the hull.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 7:42 AM

Thanks checkmateking,

That will work. I do have a question tho. Do I need to paint the lower half of the hull red and then put the black water line, then paint the upper half with the camo? The instructions that I have says to measure down 3/8 of an inch and mask then paint that part dark red.

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 8:23 AM

I haven't built a full-hull ship, so I'm not speaking from experience.

I think I'd start by painting the red on the lower hull.  Mask that when dry.  Then paint the black for the boot stripe, then mask that, to the proper width.

After that, I would move on to the upper hull colors.

I applied the 5-L Light Gray first, then the 5-O Ocean Gray, and the black last.

If there isn't a scribed line indicating where the boot stripe should be (and since you have to measure, it sounds like there isn't) then doing the boot stripe and getting everything horizontal might be a little tricky.

I hope you have good results with this.  

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 9:40 AM

Hi everyone,

You guys are going a terrific job on all this builds!

Small update, I finally was able to install the engine in the fuselage, pretty much done with it, still need to glue one piece on each side of it, but because I am so good at breaking small parts I will only be doing it at the end of the build. I also may try to improve the weathering on the engine, it is not the way I would like it to look.

I think more and more that I shouldn't have done this kit at this point, I think that I don't have the skill level to do a good job with all this small parts, careful alignment etc etc, but at this point I will be happy to just finish it and make it vaguely look like a FW-190.   

Couple of pics:

On another subject, this is what my wife gave me as a gifts for my birthday a couple of weeks ago:

   

Freaking awesome!!

Thank you for looking and like always comments and suggestions are always welcome.

Jorge

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 9:47 AM

Jorge, looks like your doing a great job on this. That engine looks damn good to me.

Nice looking airbrush as well, which one is it. I use those quick connectors as well. Have save me a fortune from replacing parts due to thread damage.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 11:37 AM

What about the deck? The measure calls for deck blue but I see no color markings on the drawings like on the hull sides.

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 2:25 PM

Bish: thank you for the comments.

The AB is a H&S Infinity with a 0.15 needle.

I started using the quick couplings because the other AB and hose that I had were Badger, so this way I didn't need to buy a new hose and can switch the airbrush without switching hoses. I am still going to use the badger with alclad and such and leave the Infinity for acrylic paints.

Jorge

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 3:21 PM

I have two airbrushes, both badger, a 100 and 150. I got the connectors because I found with un screwing the hose after every session, I was having to replace that part, and they are not cheap. So when I got a second AB they made sense not only to save on threads but for the odd occasion I need to switch airbrushes.

I do like the look of that airbrush you have.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 3:37 PM

I don't know, Jorge--your skill set must be pretty good, cuz that FW-190 is looking nice!!!  The engine is awfully impressive.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 3:44 PM

There seem to have been some variations in the Measure 32 camouflage plans.  

Some diagrams I've seen indicate that one of the Measure colors was painted over the decks.  Other plans only show the blue.

In most cases, the standard US Navy practice was 20-B Deck Blue, painted on all horizontal surfaces of the ship, including the decks, tops of gun turrents; even the canvas lifeboat covers were to be dyed a matching color.

Maybe you've checked this site:

www.history.navy.mil/.../bb63.htm

There's a diagram there that shows this.  I'm not sure if this is the pattern you plan on using.  It appears that the bulk of the deck is 20-B, with "swirls" of 5-O added.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 7:48 PM

CMK: Another great masking job!

Jay: That 190 looks great despite all the issues you had with it! You are going to love that Airbrush! I recently got the same one and it's fantastic! How do you like the adjustable trigger tension?

My apologies for not posting the B-17 and Tiffie on the front page. I actually did add them, but I must've messed up because apparently they aren't there... I'll get it updated untill tomorrow evening!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, September 9, 2014 8:36 PM

Thanks, Clemens.  I finished the deck tonight.  Some touch-ups required with a brush.  Will get to taking photos tomorrow--maybe; another late night to work.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2014
  • From: Cockeysville, MD
Posted by JaySantos on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 2:03 PM

Bish: I started with a Badger 100, then bought a 175 Crescendo, good AB, dual action, but bottom feed and now this infinity, I still like to use the 175 but it is not nearly good as having a top feed.

Check: thank you for the compliment, appreciated.

SS: The feature I most like on this ab is the button in the back that you push in order to regulate the thickness of the line been painted, really useful, I can now pull the trigger all the way back and not worry about the amount of paint leaving the Ab.

Thank you all for the nice comments.

Jorge  

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 3:08 PM

Jorge, Your engine work appears rather excellent to me also. You have done some really fine detail and painting on it. Don't get down on yourself too hard about having tackled a kit above your skill level. The Eduard 190 is notorious for being a kit with nigh on zero tolerance in lining up the cockpit, gun bay and engine for a perfect fit. As well as the wing spar and gun bays. Many an advanced modeler has fallen victim to this micro tight tolerance. Your doing fairly well in my opinion. I actually sent mine to Clemens after I watched the some of the guys in The Butcher Bird GB fight this kit. Heck, you're past the difficult part. Now enjoy painting it.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 4:22 PM

Ah, now I know your true intentions, mate! In that case I'm very glad to suffer in your place, cause I do love those Eduard kits.Wink They really are somewhat of a pain to assemble but they look so damn nice once you bent, filed and sanded them into submission! I got something special planned for that particular A-8 BTW... Just a little hint: It involved quite a bit of AM stuff (as if the damn kit wasn't problematic already)... I'll post the goodies in the 190 GB once my post office finally finds the box they're in again. Bang Head

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 4:22 PM

The front page is up to date now...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 4:33 PM

Cheers buddy, can you also add Nomad's USS Missouri to the roster, the details are in my first post.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by SchattenSpartan on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 4:36 PM

Done Big Smile

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 4:37 PM

Yes

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.