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Looking very good stik.
I'm not a rattle can fan either as it tends to lay too much paint out. However, Tamiya cans are pretty decent at spraying a good smooth coat.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Ah, ok.
______________________________________________________________________________
On the Bench: Nothing on the go ATM
No, it's all bottle stuff airbrushed on. I am not a rattle can user...
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Stik..is the Tamiya from the rattle can?
Just some small progress on my 113 so far
Tamiya White surface primer on interior surfaces
followed by a coat of Tamiya Flat White then a top coat of Gloss White.
Thanks PJ!
On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk
Great job Bob. The camo looks
Well today I was able to get a coat of Tamiya White Surface Primer over the interior areas of my 113 that will be white, between my morning routine and going to work. Tomorrow I ought to be able to get the top coat completed in there and get it ready for detail painting. I'll get some photos up once the actual white is on in there.
Thanks Bish. I very carefully lined up one edge of blue painter's tape along the raised panel line for the radome and burnished it down with the other end of a paintbrush. Then I just layered on more painter's tape until the entire radome was covered. It took me a couple of attempts to get it just right.
Thanks PJ, I will see if I can find it. I might try and pop into my LHS this weekend.
Bob, great work on the camo. How did you get that radome masks so well.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Thanks Rob! It took me the better part of a week to get it just right
Great cam, bob..now I'm gonna be 'pained' for not going that way with my Phantom..looks great!!
Nice looking SEA camo Bob! Nicely masked Radome too.
I finished painting the SEA camo on the Phantom. I'm pretty pleased with the results, despite some airbrush problems and some touch-ups here and there. Now on to the wheel wells...
Got some work done today on the F-4. Not much to photograph. Got the engines mounted and rear stabs. Also masked off cockpit area as I"m installing the canopies last this time as they will be open. Hopefully get the primer coat down tomorrow nite, but, may have to work late. We'll see.
Stik, I just remembered that it's available at Amazon.
Stik
Thanks. This is a UK made product. I tried to locate a US distributor with negative results but I was very surprised when I saw it hanging in the paint section at my Hobby Shop here in Orlando Florida. Great stuff.
Bish
Thanks, This stuff is made in the UK so it should be fairly easy for you to get.
PJ, your -26 is coming along beautifully! I like the sound of that putty product. Anybody know if there is anything like it available here is the USA?
Nice work PJ. That putty looks interesting, is that new, I have not heard of it before.
Wow! You guys are just cranking out some fine details to your builds. I don't want to leave anyone out cause too many to list but fantastic job on those cockpits, planes and AFV's.
Here's another update on my Invader. I added another missing detail on the right side of the fuselage which is a small hatch door, hinges and the door handle. The vertical lines were scribed and the hinges and handle are stretched sprue cut to size then glued with slow CA applied with a toothpick.
before...........
and after........ The engines were painted metallic silver and given a black wash to pop details. Engines and canopy are in place and secured I recently read on one of the threads here in FSM about the wonders of "Perfect Plastic Putty" made by Deluxe Materials in the UK. This stuff is fantastic. It spreads very easily and sands extra smooth with super fine sticks producing an ultra fine surface. I ran a Q Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol over the seams to check for defects. The alcohol lets you see while wet and glossy if any imperfections are visible. I then applied the Perfect Plastic Putty product over the suspected areas and let it dry over night. The directions said 20 minutes but bedtime was close. The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver. I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
and after........
The engines were painted metallic silver and given a black wash to pop details. Engines and canopy are in place and secured I recently read on one of the threads here in FSM about the wonders of "Perfect Plastic Putty" made by Deluxe Materials in the UK. This stuff is fantastic. It spreads very easily and sands extra smooth with super fine sticks producing an ultra fine surface. I ran a Q Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol over the seams to check for defects. The alcohol lets you see while wet and glossy if any imperfections are visible. I then applied the Perfect Plastic Putty product over the suspected areas and let it dry over night. The directions said 20 minutes but bedtime was close. The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver. I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
The engines were painted metallic silver and given a black wash to pop details.
Engines and canopy are in place and secured I recently read on one of the threads here in FSM about the wonders of "Perfect Plastic Putty" made by Deluxe Materials in the UK. This stuff is fantastic. It spreads very easily and sands extra smooth with super fine sticks producing an ultra fine surface. I ran a Q Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol over the seams to check for defects. The alcohol lets you see while wet and glossy if any imperfections are visible. I then applied the Perfect Plastic Putty product over the suspected areas and let it dry over night. The directions said 20 minutes but bedtime was close. The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver. I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
Engines and canopy are in place and secured
I recently read on one of the threads here in FSM about the wonders of "Perfect Plastic Putty" made by Deluxe Materials in the UK. This stuff is fantastic. It spreads very easily and sands extra smooth with super fine sticks producing an ultra fine surface. I ran a Q Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol over the seams to check for defects. The alcohol lets you see while wet and glossy if any imperfections are visible. I then applied the Perfect Plastic Putty product over the suspected areas and let it dry over night. The directions said 20 minutes but bedtime was close. The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver. I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
I recently read on one of the threads here in FSM about the wonders of "Perfect Plastic Putty" made by Deluxe Materials in the UK. This stuff is fantastic. It spreads very easily and sands extra smooth with super fine sticks producing an ultra fine surface.
I ran a Q Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol over the seams to check for defects. The alcohol lets you see while wet and glossy if any imperfections are visible. I then applied the Perfect Plastic Putty product over the suspected areas and let it dry over night. The directions said 20 minutes but bedtime was close. The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver. I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
I ran a Q Tip moistened with rubbing alcohol over the seams to check for defects. The alcohol lets you see while wet and glossy if any imperfections are visible. I then applied the Perfect Plastic Putty product over the suspected areas and let it dry over night. The directions said 20 minutes but bedtime was close.
The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver. I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
The putty doesn't shrink and sands very easily with little pressure on the sanding stick. It took care of a couple of dips at the joins. Any missing lines were restored with the UMM Scriber, another life saver.
I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it. Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
I even discovered a small dip on one of the tanks but the plastic putty took care of it.
Just when I think I'm getting ready for paint, I discover another missing detail. More to come.
Lookin' good Stik!!
A quick simple update for my 113 today. Lots of rummaging thru my spares bines turned up some stuff to bush up the drivers compartment. An instrument panel (from an AFV Club YPR kit) mounted on something from a Tamiya kit to represent the angle of the mounting box, some boxes that vaguely look like what I recall being down there from a Tamiya M60A3, a periscope from a Tasca Sherman to represent the IR periscope stowed there, and the radio that I selected earlier in the project...
Now it's ready for paint!
silentbob33 Those Academy guns look pretty good. I can't remember who talked me into buying a few for my LCVP in the Longest Day GB...
Those Academy guns look pretty good. I can't remember who talked me into buying a few for my LCVP in the Longest Day GB...
Ah well, problem solved then LOL.
Theuns
Well here is the progress that I have been nickle and diming on my 113 this past week or so...
first up the machine guns. I am gonna replace the Italeri .30 cal that I had pulled out of the spares bin with a better one from the Academy US Machine Guns set, as well as the kit's .50
here some shots of those
both Academy MGs
Academy vs kit .50
close up of the Academy .50
Academy vs Italeri .30
Academy .30
modified drivers compartment with styrene added to fill a gap
modified inner face of the cupola. I filed gaps in the rotator ring to make it match up with the periscopes
and the cupola with the Academy .50 in place
engine deck with screen mesh added over intake and exhaust grills
and with engine exhaust and access hatch added
more to come soon...
OK, here's some discouragement for you on a silver Thud (they were not NMF at the point, but aluminum lacquer)- you have to back date any kit to early configuration. No side engine cooling scoops, or back up hydraulic line conduit on the fuselage spine...
but they sure were pretty before warpaint
No,no no!! Now you put the idea in my head to do NMF!!.
OK ,note to self...., just calm down, go sit still untill the feeling goes away LOL
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