2015 Messerschmitt Bf 109 Group Build

Ridge, T-bolt....looking sweet.  Jer, neat info regarding fuse bands.  Howard, thanks for the offer but I decided to go with Hackl's markings.  I was reading up on him and learned he served on every front at one point and had 192 confirmed kills with 34 being "heavies".  Consider me inspired!  I'll probably use the kit's tail scoreboard but will source the rest from my Aeromaster stash.  I'm not that brave.....lol.  I'll just live with the cannons.  I like instrument decals too, but on my kit it came in black when it was suppose to be RLM 66.  I decided to make mine a drybrush exercise.  A question about the Airscale decals though, are they already pre-cut individually into circles or is a punch set needed?  I may try these out.  Can someone post a small tutorial on this?

Last night it was me, Net-Flix, and RLM 74, 75, 76 through my airbrush.  I can attest to German mottling being somewhat challenging when your airbrush needle is going bad, for I'm having a hard time getting those fine lines down.  Here I preshaded the panel lines and then added the ID colors (white tail, yellow nose and fuse band) which were taped off.

RLM 76 was next.  For some reason I couldn't seem to get this right to my eye.  I used the recommended 2 parts (drops) XF-66 Light Grey, 1 part XF-23 Light Blue and then 7 parts XF-2 Flat White, but it just looked too pale grey.  I added a touch more of the blue.  This is why I hate trying to make RLM colors out of Tamiya paint and use Gunze Aqueous for this.  RLM 76 is the only one I dont have.  Here we are with "F it...good enough".  I streaked and weathered it with a diluted red-brown/black post shading. 

I then pulled out the Gunze for the 74 and 75.  I love the Aqueous line for RLm colors.  They look right on to me.  75 was first. 

I then used the instruction sheet profile for an Idea how Hackl's camo pattern went. It appeared to be field applied void of the normal splinter pattern.  I am however skeptical since the sheet calls for this pattern on all three planes, two being on the Eastern front???  I decided to freehand spray on the 74.  I then added a touch of XF-2 Flat White to fade it out a bit in the wings.  As I said, needle issues prevented this from being a convincing mottling job and really tried my patience.  Hopefully it will be passable after decaling and weathering later. 

Decals soon...

Joe 

Yeah me too Greg... I think there are 3 sizes but perhaps not any more. Myself, I've tried but never have got the hang of stretched sprue. Wish I could, it makes ideal wiring and antenna wire.

On the 48th scale I would use fine myself.

Doug

Thanks for the link I will be ordering some.  I needed a break from the armor and aircraft are filling the bill.  

Keep up the great work guys.  I am learning a ton.  Makes me want to keep adding details to my builds.

moose

Moose, here is the link to Bershire Industries EZ-Line. Hope it helps you somehow.

Doug, I didn't realise that was the heavy you used. It looks great. Do you use it on 1/48th too?

PS, I could have sworn there were three sizes when I ordered mine a couple years ago, now I see two (Fine and Heavy)

Hey Moose... I have two different sizes, and for this one I used the Medium. That's all I can tell you at this time, I know it comes in different sizes ( I have fine and medium, at least that is whats marked on the pkg) and it also comes in several colors. I bought the drk grey. Hope that helps. There is a seller in Fla. that sells it in six foot lengths wrapped around a business card, and I still have 1 and a half cards worth of each size. It goes a long way. And like mike said it is stretchy .

If you mean EZ Line by Berkshire Junction, it's a highly elastic thread and the relative thickness depends on how much tension you apply. I'm not sure if there is a variety of gauges, I use it for both 1:72 and 1:48, but at 1:32 it seems a bit light, perhaps stretched sprue would be more appropriate.

M/TB379

Rigid,

What size of ez wire are you using.  I am looking at trying it for my 1/48 and 1/32 aircraft builds.  What size would you recommend?

Thanks

moose

Bob, I'd vote for decals for the IP too. I of late like them better than PE. (photo-etched accessories).

Doug & Jay   Thank you both. I think I’ll go with assembly first, then paint. Truth is I thought the interior would be RLM 62, not RLM 66. So… had to order 66 this morning and I now have a lag time of 5 to 7 days surface mail. Both LHS's don't carry acrylic RLM series on the shelf, only enamel. Might as well start assembly, then paint.

I now have enough information to keep my busy for quite some time. I’ll post again when I have some pics to share.

Unbelievable work here everyone. Truly a privilege to follow along. Thanks.

Bob

As Doug said, Airscale decals are great, and I use them all the time, but for the kit you are working on, I found the kit IP decal to be very good. Hasegawa really made some nice improvements on the F.

Jay

Bob, I would go with the decals. They always look better. I cut mine into three pieces. On a 109 with the raised center section it's easier to get the decals to lay down, so left, right, and center sections. Easier to get them aligned with the molded detail also. You will need to use setting solution. When that's done I use Future in each gauge to give it a glossy glass-like appearance. You may have have to do that a couple of times to fill up the depression. If you use the decals, gloss coat the IP over the RLM 66, apply the decals, flat coat, then Future in each gauge.

Jay

Bob... I personally will never again hand paint an ip gauge.  Check out , AirScale IP decals on Ebay or the LHS. Just type in AirScale or instrument panel decals and check them out, they are relatively inexpensive, look great and come in various scales and air craft types, also placards if desired. After application, put a small drop of micro sol on them, let it dry, then put a drop of clear floor wax or clear varnish on it and you have a beautiful panel. Now as to pit assy, I assy then paint, except the IP, that I usually do while the rest is drying, then paint the pit assy and install IP. Thats just my way.

Doug

Mustang1989:   Yes, the scale is 1:32

All: Spending some serious time with the assembly sheet. Looking back over the cockpit builds in the thread it appears most choose to paint first; interior walls, floor, yoke, trim wheel, rudder petals and various other pieces either separated or still on the sprue, then remove paint from contact surfaces and assemble followed by detail painting with a brush or toothpick. Do I have that right?

Also, it seems I have a choice to either dry paint the instrument panel followed by detail painting the dials or use the included decal set. Should my first attempt at small detail decal work be the IP or should I hand paint? I know it’s ultimately my decision, but the experience here is well worth seeking out. I know Jay used the decal set and cut them down. I am experienced doing fine detail work as a long time fly tier, but new techniques are always an issue. I have done my reading homework about decal application.

Advise and suggestions welcomed. Thank you for the welcome posts too!!

Bob

That's a great job on that "D" there Mike! I wasn't into the earlier 109's until recently meaning the A's through E models. They have come to grow on me a bit.

Greg: Thanks for the vote of confidence brother!

Thanks, Jay! I've done the formation lights, I used micro drops of CA applied with a needle to create the lights physically, and have painted them with a very thin brush. I'll add some Future to them before I hit the hay, and I'm hoping to get some more details done in the morning before I head off. If I can get several items done then it's not beyond the bounds of possibility that I can finish her sometime late Sunday (Aus time).

M/TB379

Mike, looks great! Very well done.

Jay

Jay -- thanks for the info! Okay, the crosses were a marking that told everybody else in the unit "this one's the boss!"

Right, I made use of unexpected time today. The stencils, such as will show up against 70, are all on, the model was then washed and air dried, and I've shot a final coat of clear. In the same session I got the paintwork underway on the TD wheels I found. Here she is:

The decals pulled in tightly enough for most panel lines to take an accent over the decals -- not all, a couple repelled the wash, but enough for the effect to look right.

It should be downhill from here -- landing gear, detail painting, radio mast and other small parts. There are no moulded formation lights, I'm thinking of trying the CA-dot method.

I might get a little more done tomorrow, then I'm away overnight, so still a few days to finish.

Cheers, M/TB379

I was going to check those books tonight jay. Now I know where I just had a look and I see what you mean. Ye, that makes perfect sense. I am going to have to do one of those in 72nd.

Doug, thanks for the info. Will defiantly give that a go.

Lawdog Joe, man, you don't mess around. Takes me longer to open a box. Great start.

John, that's some terrific work. Masking a canopy in 1/72. That thought might keep me awake tonight. You have it down pat, it seems.

Bob (radial 9), welcome to the group!

Doug, yours has my jaw dropping, buddy. Really outstanding. That spring and insulator in the coolest thing. Thanks for 'splaining how you did it.

Mike, those are surely some interesting markings. New to me. Looking great, looking forward to watching it progress.

Mustang Joe, this is a heckuva GB you have going here. You sure do a nice job keeping up with it.

Bit of good news, guys -- I didn't have to head out today so I've snagged the chance to drop the selection of data onto the -D. A few to go and she'll be ready for inspection and final clear coat...

M/TB379

Bob: I'm assuming that's a 32nd scale kit?

Doug: You're telling me about not being able to take a nap around here and them BAM! 2-3 pages go by. You outta try running this mamma jamma!!!! Constant good action!!! Really great group build so far you guys. Thanks for all the hospitable interaction!!

Great work everyone. Welcome aboard Bob.  We'll ordered my mug today should get it next week. Went with the 15 oz.  Thanks Clemens

Thanks all! Again, you guys are and continue to be the best!!!, The tensioning springs are really fairly easy Bish, I just use a micro drill bit( I try to guess at the scale) and as I said, leave a short pig tail at both ends to form the hooks, then just start winding a piece of fine wire around it until I have enough, then bend the hook on both ends. But kinda like Nathan said, Hard enough to just get the "EZ" line in place. The connectors and cones I usually carefully heat some clear acetate plastic and while still hot and soft push something pointed like a toothpick into it forming a cone shape. One tiny hole and your done with the cone. Take care all! Keep up the great work!

Doug

According to my book, which is from the Jagdwaffe series by Classic Colours, Vol. 1 Sec. 3 Blitzkreig and Sitzkreig, Poland and France 1939-1940,  they are special markings for the Staffel Schwamfuhren, if that tells you anything.

Awesome set of books btw. 20 books in the Jagdwaffe series plus more for other parts of the Luftwaffe besides the fighters.

Jay

Thanks Joe and Bish! Honestly, I have no idea about the white crosses, they seem fairly unique -- perhaps they mark out a veteran of the Spanish Civil War, but then why didn't loads of aircraft have them? Maybe it was a recognition thing, something applied for an exercise. These markings I believe are dated to March 1939.

No further progress -- it'll be a couple of days before I can get to the stencils, but then hopefully a fairly clear shoot to the finish. I found a set of True details wheels right for this bird so I don't have to hang around for the ones  bought to arrive or use the poorer kit wheels after all.

M/TB379

Really nice work there Doug. I really like how you have done those antenna's. I think I am going to have to learn that one. In 72nd, I can get away with not doing them like that, but in 32nd I reckon it will be a must.

Mike, I do like the look of that one. Do you know if there was any purpose to the white markings.

Many thanks for all the kindness.

T-Bolt to be honest I really enjoy the construction aspect.  That all started years ago with my first modified pit.  Since then I find it very enjoyable.  Your -D looks clean and crisp.  Really looks good.

Stang you are right.  There does seem to be a lot of overengineering on this but then again what I am doing some say is overkill.

Tom many thanks.  It is the little things that always seem to stand out.

Lawdog another crisp and clean build.  And so quick.

John nice work on the canopy.  I seem to always have at least one issue with mine.  Operator error most of the time.

Jay I wish I had decent display cases.  Most of my work ends up on a shelf in a cabinet down in the bunker where it is hidden away.

Doug the wire springs as well as the overall is fantastic.  I have yet to do an aerial that I am truly happy with.

Again I am a bit overwhelmed by all the talent shown in this build.  All the work seems so polished, so refined.  

Joe

Bob, yes they do conceal some of the detail, but I think the reason is most of us are not very good at figure painting. If your pilot doesn't look as good as the plane it detracts from the overall build, at least to me anyway.

Jay

Jay, Thanks for the advise. I would probably be well advised to take it. The detail of the kit cockpit is indeed much greater than what I expected. I have not seen any pilots modeled in the builds here. Is it common to not include them? I'm thinking they most likely cover the fine detail put into the cockpit??

Bob

Bob, since you are just starting out, you may want to just go with the kit cockpit on this build. I am building a Hasegawa F currently and found the level of detail much improved from the G and K. I have always used AM cockpit sets on those, but didn't feel it was needed on the F. I did use a Quickboost stick, which is very easy to do, and I always use RB Productions belts, which are pretty fiddly, but IMHO are the most realistic looking belts out there and make a big difference. PE can be frustrating and much can be done just with careful painting.

Jay