Nomad53

Wow agsin Steve. I too would go blind.

Jim those panel lines look sharp. Great job.

Okay Ken here are two photos of the finished Pz IV. The panzer is from the 12th SS Panzer Division Hitlerjugend ("Hitler Youth") a German Waffen-SS armored division.

  Doug

PS Ken you pick the one you want to use for the completed page.

Great job Doug!  Well done!      The front page has been updated.

Ken

Great job on Paula Doug.  Looks like it's ready to beat it out with a Sherman.

I finished all 6 Quad Bofors tonight. I have several duel and single to make still. I think I'm going to take a break from guns for a little bit and work on some superstructure tomorrow night. There's plenty of PE for that as well.

I know all the barrels don't look perfect, however some of the muzzles were broken off when removing them from the tree. I found out the hard way, they are very brittle and very hard to reattach. If anyone builds this kit in the future, be aware of this.

Nice job again Steve. At that scale I doubt  if anyone will see the breaks in the barrels. How do you glue the small PE parts? I would have CA all over the place. I have a kit coming up that has PE and resin parts. I have worked with PE but very little. I have never worked with resin.

Please any help with gluing PE and working with resin parts is needed.

Thanks

Doug

Thanks Ken for posting the photo.

Doug: Very nice work! I think I said before I really like the figures, I think tanks look kinda drab without a figure or two to give it some 'life'. 

Steve: Ok, well six isn't too bad I suppose. Still sure you're glad they're done and curious here as to what part of her you're building next. 

Btw: I finished painting the Hellcat, or at least she's to the point of decaling. The colour demarcation line should be a soft edge but I've read in 1/48th the line would look hard so that's what I went with. I had some issues with the edge on the wing leading edge but I decided to quit while I was ahead before I messed something else up repainting. 

Thanks guys for you kind words. I'm having a blast with this build.

Nomad53

How do you glue the small PE parts? I would have CA all over the place. I have a kit coming up that has PE and resin parts.

Doug,

I place a drop small puddle of medium or thin CA (I personally prefer Bob Smith Industries CA) on a piece of plastic (you know the plastic bags that the sprue trees come in) and use a sharpened toothpick to get the tiniest bit of glue to the area I'm attaching the part to, or dip the part itself into the puddle. Sometimes I'll spray (or drip) a drop of accelerator on to that same plastic, not in the same area of course, and using a separate toothpick, I'll just dampen, not soak,  the target area with the accelerator. Then I attach the glue laden part to the target area for a faster adhering. Those parts are so small that just the smallest movement with the tweezers will mess up the whole area.

As far as resin, I don't have a lot of experience with it, but again, CA seems to work well.
I have been....I guess you can say...questioned on other threads, for my exclusive use of CA, but it always works for me.

Gamara,

I was planning to work on some superstructure tonight and this weekend. There is quite a bit of the original kit that is removed in areas in lieu of a PE replacement. I'm excited to get into it and see.

modelcrazy

Thanks guys for you kind words. I'm having a blast with this build.

Nomad53

How do you glue the small PE parts? I would have CA all over the place. I have a kit coming up that has PE and resin parts.

Doug,

I place a drop small puddle of medium or thin CA (I personally prefer Bob Smith Industries CA) on a piece of plastic (you know the plastic bags that the sprue trees come in) and use a sharpened toothpick to get the tiniest bit of glue to the area I'm attaching the part to, or dip the part itself into the puddle. Sometimes I'll spray (or drip) a drop of accelerator on to that same plastic, not in the same area of course, and using a separate toothpick, I'll just dampen, not soak,  the target area with the accelerator. Then I attach the glue laden part to the target area for a faster adhering. Those parts are so small that just the smallest movement with the tweezers will mess up the whole area.

As far as resin, I don't have a lot of experience with it, but again, CA seems to work well.
I have been....I guess you can say...questioned on other threads, for my exclusive use of CA, but it always works for me.

Gamara,

I was planning to work on some superstructure tonight and this weekend. There is quite a bit of the original kit that is removed in areas in lieu of a PE replacement. I'm excited to get into it and see.

Thanks Steve for answering my question. I will remember that when I get started on my next kit with PE.

Looking forward to seeing the superstructure.

Doug

Nomad53

Nice job again Steve. At that scale I doubt  if anyone will see the breaks in the barrels. How do you glue the small PE parts? I would have CA all over the place. I have a kit coming up that has PE and resin parts. I have worked with PE but very little. I have never worked with resin.

Please any help with gluing PE and working with resin parts is needed.

Thanks

Doug

Thanks Ken for posting the photo.

Hi Doug,

My preferences and experiences with PE and resin will of course be different than others, but I am glad to share my two cents worth on the topics!   

For PE, it depends on what I am working with.  If the surface I am applying it to is nice and flat, (for instance an instrument panel) I like to use Future as the glue.  This is because most likely there are going to be dials showing through, and the Future is good to use in the places where the dials are showing to give it an appearance of glass.

Using PE in other areas I prefer to use Gator's Grip Hobby Glue.  It gives you plenty of time to position the part where you want it, it is easy to clean up with water (before it dries), and it is a very strong glue that dries clear.

For resin, one thing you will need is a razor saw for the larger parts.  Almost all resin parts will have a large block of resin that is part of the mold.  You will need to cut this off.  Another note here is that you need to have some type of filtering mask to wear so that you don't breathe in the dust.  After sawing off the block, to get the remainder off you will need small files and sandpaper to finish the area.

Another thing about resin is that you will need to clean the parts to remove the release agents used in the production.  My preference for this is Westley’s Bleche Wite Tire Cleaner.  It is caustic so you have to wear rubber gloves when using it.  Just put your resin parts in a container that can withstand the cleaner and pour the cleaner into it until it covers the parts.  Then leave it soak overnight.  I also go an extra step and use an old long bristle paint brush and gently scrub the parts with the Bleche Wite before rinsing them off.

To attach resin parts to plastic, I prefer using epoxy.  I have not had good luck using super glue.  It comes in different setting times, from 5 minute to 60 minute.  Just remember if using the 5 minute that it sets up pretty quick, so if you’re assembly is complex, you might use the slower epoxy.

Well that is my quick overview for using PE and resin.  I hope it helps you out.  And as always feel free to ask questions.

Ken

Son Of Medicine Man

Nomad53

Nice job again Steve. At that scale I doubt  if anyone will see the breaks in the barrels. How do you glue the small PE parts? I would have CA all over the place. I have a kit coming up that has PE and resin parts. I have worked with PE but very little. I have never worked with resin.

Please any help with gluing PE and working with resin parts is needed.

Thanks

Doug

Thanks Ken for posting the photo.

Hi Doug,

 

My preferences and experiences with PE and resin will of course be different than others, but I am glad to share my two cents worth on the topics!   

 

For PE, it depends on what I am working with.  If the surface I am applying it to is nice and flat, (for instance an instrument panel) I like to use Future as the glue.  This is because most likely there are going to be dials showing through, and the Future is good to use in the places where the dials are showing to give it an appearance of glass.

 

Using PE in other areas I prefer to use Gator's Grip Hobby Glue.  It gives you plenty of time to position the part where you want it, it is easy to clean up with water (before it dries), and it is a very strong glue that dries clear.

 

For resin, one thing you will need is a razor saw for the larger parts.  Almost all resin parts will have a large block of resin that is part of the mold.  You will need to cut this off.  Another note here is that you need to have some type of filtering mask to wear so that you don't breathe in the dust.  After sawing off the block, to get the remainder off you will need small files and sandpaper to finish the area.

 

Another thing about resin is that you will need to clean the parts to remove the release agents used in the production.  My preference for this is Westley’s Bleche Wite Tire Cleaner.  It is caustic so you have to wear rubber gloves when using it.  Just put your resin parts in a container that can withstand the cleaner and pour the cleaner into it until it covers the parts.  Then leave it soak overnight.  I also go an extra step and use an old long bristle paint brush and gently scrub the parts with the Bleche Wite before rinsing them off.

To attach resin parts to plastic, I prefer using epoxy.  I have not had good luck using super glue.  It comes in different setting times, from 5 minute to 60 minute.  Just remember if using the 5 minute that it sets up pretty quick, so if you’re assembly is complex, you might use the slower epoxy.

Well that is my quick overview for using PE and resin.  I hope it helps you out.  And as always feel free to ask questions.

Ken

My view on Photo-etched parts? when I am working with it, I sometimes swear that it has to be one of the most devious forms of self-inflicted torture ever devised by the human mind! However, when I finish and look at the results, I think it was worth the trip! Two of my favorite completed projects are my EA-18G Growler and my A-7D Corsair II, both of which had over a hundred parts to add! Those two models I wouldn't mind entering into a show if one ever comes along!

My best advise is, of course, Patience! And some fine tweezers and a magnifier!

Jim

OK, here's some superstructure work. I'm planning on working the bridge and masts this weekend. Looks like I'm starting to make a dent in the PE sheets. 

Oh gee Steve, those ladders... I think they would drive me to madness.  

Nice work Steve!!!  I'm with Gamera on that one, all that PE would drive me batty!!  I have a couple of kits with some PE and I just keep moving them down in the pile because I'm afraid I dont have the patience to deal with it yet.

Oh, man---After the PE on the Betty, I'd be a blubbering, drooling, crying boob in less that an hour with that kind of PE. Nicely done.  And I have pretty much the full suite donated for the RF4C that is next up.

modelcrazy

Great job on Paula Doug.  Looks like it's ready to beat it out with a Sherman.

I finished all 6 Quad Bofors tonight. I have several duel and single to make still. I think I'm going to take a break from guns for a little bit and work on some superstructure tomorrow night. There's plenty of PE for that as well.

I know all the barrels don't look perfect, however some of the muzzles were broken off when removing them from the tree. I found out the hard way, they are very brittle and very hard to reattach. If anyone builds this kit in the future, be aware of this.

Hi Steve,

Great job on those Bofors!  They look awesome!   

Ken

Gamera

Doug: Very nice work! I think I said before I really like the figures, I think tanks look kinda drab without a figure or two to give it some 'life'. 

Steve: Ok, well six isn't too bad I suppose. Still sure you're glad they're done and curious here as to what part of her you're building next. 

Btw: I finished painting the Hellcat, or at least she's to the point of decaling. The colour demarcation line should be a soft edge but I've read in 1/48th the line would look hard so that's what I went with. I had some issues with the edge on the wing leading edge but I decided to quit while I was ahead before I messed something else up repainting. 

Great work there Cliff!  The pre-shading looks just right.     

Ken

modelcrazy

OK, here's some superstructure work. I'm planning on working the bridge and masts this weekend. Looks like I'm starting to make a dent in the PE sheets. 

Great work once again Steve!  All that work really pays off!     

Ken

Hey Ken thanks, I started decaling her for Lt. Alex Vraciu's fighter yesterday.

I think his name is pronounced Vrack-chew from an episode of the History Channel's Dogfights but am not totally sure.  

Hi Everyone,

A little more progress on my Zero.  First, here is the seat the way it looked before I started to remove the molded on seat belts:

To remove the molded on seat belts, I thought I would try the new tool I recently bought:

I used the medium grade.  Here it is mounted in my Dremel:

Here is how the seat looked when I finished using the Dremel:

I smoothed it out using some sanding sticks:

Notice how the photo etch seat belts are still attached after all the abusive handling!  They are held on by Gator's Grip Hobby Glue.

Next step is to repaint the seat.

Ken 

Boy, I can see why the PE sets for ships cost so much now. It's not so much the manufacturing and materials, it's the time it took to measure and engineer ALL those wee little parts. I was working on the smoke stacks this weekend (I did't get much time between a grandson's birthday, showing the house and family issues) and the grate along the top of the stacks have 13 triangular braces. I could barely see them through my optivisor, let alone pick them up with my tweezers and just dip the edge onto a drop of glue. I don't know if anyone will ever notice all the tiny work I'm putting into this thing, but it should add to the the overall look. I will post pics of those insane smoke stacks when I complete them. Maybe tonight before bed.

In the end, my wife, you guys on the forum and I will know the extent to which I'm going. Ya'll just don't have to hear my string of curses like my wife does.

I also looked, in vane, for a base that would be suitable for the ocean scene. I could't find any long enough to do the "water" justice. Oh well, I will have to make one myself, which shouldn't be too hard. It will just be heaver than I would like. Some plywood and molding for the sides, and I think I have it. I'll start working on that soon and take some pics of that progress as well.

Here's tonight's progress,

The stacks are done, and it may not look like much but this equates to 2 nights work. The second set of pictures show the PE instructions along with the kits instructions. The 2 small boxes in the upper left are the kits instructions on the left for the mast and gunnery radar, and the 1 1/2  pages on the right are the PE instructions for the same steps.

modelcrazy

Here's tonight's progress,

The stacks are done, and it may not look like much but this equates to 2 nights work. The second set of pictures show the PE instructions along with the kits instructions. The 2 small boxes in the upper left are the kits instructions on the left for the mast and gunnery radar, and the 1 1/2  pages on the right are the PE instructions for the same steps.

 

Nice work once again Steve!  You are moving full steam ahead on this!  (excuse my pun!)     

Ken

Wow, again that's some crazy fine detail work.

Ya'll ready for this? The forward mast, radars, and various radio antennas. A tidy nights work if I say so myself.

By the way, It's lying on tissue paper.

That's just WOW...

I can do PE to some extent but never tried anything like that before.

That is absolutely amazing work Steve!!  I'm in awe of what you are doing with all that PE.  I am still intimidated by the little bit that came with my resin cockpit upgrade for my F-4G, I think I should quit complaining!  LOL

I thought I was intimidated by PE before I started. Now I'm pretty sure I can tackle most anything. I'm a little intimidated at the prospect of painting this thing. I typically try to paint ships as I go.

modelcrazy

Ya'll ready for this? The forward mast, radars, and various radio antennas. A tidy nights work if I say so myself.

By the way, It's lying on tissue paper.

Holy cow Steve!  That is amazing!      Another thing I am impressed with is your ability to understand the instructions well enough to assemble this.  I know every photo etch set I have gotten has nothing but pictures.  No actual explanation of how to assemble it.

Ken

Well, I've gotten about two-thirds of the decals applied to the F6F and she's starting to look like a Hellcat. Still haven't found the missing decals for the Wildcat, if I don't find them by the time I'm finished decaling the Hellcat I'm just going to improvise. 

Looking sharp Gamera! Way to go!

Son Of Medicine Man

modelcrazy

Ya'll ready for this? The forward mast, radars, and various radio antennas. A tidy nights work if I say so myself.

By the way, It's lying on tissue paper.

Holy cow Steve!  That is amazing!      Another thing I am impressed with is your ability to understand the instructions well enough to assemble this.  I know every photo etch set I have gotten has nothing but pictures.  No actual explanation of how to assemble it.

Ken

I agree! That looks amazing!

Often I find instructions on these sets to be a bit vague at times. Couple that with the fact that I seem to have 10 fat, meaty German sausages attached to the ends of my hands where fingers should go! They always seem to be in the way! Not to mention the effect of aging on my vision!

It is worth the aggravation though!

Jim

Gamera

Well, I've gotten about two-thirds of the decals applied to the F6F and she's starting to look like a Hellcat. Still haven't found the missing decals for the Wildcat, if I don't find them by the time I'm finished decaling the Hellcat I'm just going to improvise. 

Hi Cliff,

Your Hellcat looks great!      The decals do make it come alive.

Ken