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1946 What If GB

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 4, 2016 8:31 PM

BD:Thanks, I've got to try some of this stuff myself. BTW I ordered some of those fabric seatbelts and they came last weekend. I've been working on the ones for my 1/32nd Zero and wow! Thanks for the tip there.

Moff: I know what you mean. I should be working on something right now but I'm fooling around on the interwebz (sigh).

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Friday, April 8, 2016 8:13 AM

Thanks, everyone. I have a habit of turning "fun" into "work" if I get too carried away. I just try to remind myself that I have eight months ahead of me to build the model in an enjoyable fashion. 

BTW, I have been making a little progress the past week, mainly attempting to fill injection pin marks. I am absolutely horrible at using filler though, so I'll have to either cover it with mud (Russia, Spring Rasputitsa 1946?) or retry filling them. Any tips? Filling is my Achilles heel.

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, April 8, 2016 10:12 AM

Hi Moff, recently someone brought my attention to a product named Mr Dissolved putty.  The linked video shows it being used to fill in injection marks. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoahIXns8Fc

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, April 8, 2016 11:37 AM

Well, I've used Perfect Plastic Putty which you can scrub up the excess with a moist cotton swab but generally I just fill the hole and then sand it down. 

And make sure the hole actually shows, I've wasted time filling holes that get covered up by another part.

 

Jack: That looks interesting, I've used Mister Surfacer to fill them but end up going back to regular putty. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, April 8, 2016 11:57 AM

Yeah, any type of putty should do.  The most difficult is sanding a spot that doesn't have room for the scrubbing motion, or the area has raised detail you don't want to ruin. 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, April 8, 2016 12:23 PM
I’ve used Mr. Dissolved Putty for a little while and find it works well for small applications or ones that do not have wide gaps. The YouTube video said it was thicker than the 500, I find it far thinner, almost like thinned paint. I can a do remove either one with denatured alcohol.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, April 8, 2016 12:39 PM

Yeah, getting the sandpaper in a tight place is the rub (sorry about the pun). Sometimes I'll just tear off a small piece of sandpaper to get in there. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by BrandonD on Friday, April 8, 2016 1:27 PM

Oh I'm interested to hear about the putty. I'll have to order some. I am the worst at filling, and it always gives me fits. I use Perfectl Plastic Putty mostly, but also Tamiya Putty, and I recently bought some Milliupt and Mr. Surfacer 500. But that putty looks like it will be more useful.

-BD-

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Monday, April 11, 2016 9:01 AM

I use Perfect Plastic Putty, but again, I'm not very skilled. I apply a blob and wait for it to dry before sanding it down. The problem is, the P3 has a tendency to be sanded out of the injector pin mark. That tendency could either be caused by my choice of sandpaper, or by my inexperience, I don't know. I tried cutting the extra putty off with an Exacto, and that seemed to work pretty well. 

 

Is that Gunze product lacquer-based? I'm a little leery about using Mr. Toxic 1000 in my indoor workspace. 

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, April 11, 2016 3:52 PM

Moff, i started useing the perfect putty recently and soon found you do have to be gentle with it. You could try a slighlty wet cotton bud and ligthly swipe it over the putty, but again you have to be careful.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 11, 2016 8:26 PM

I know what you mean about the injection pin holes. I've used a bunch of different stuff and most of it will pop out of the hole when sanded. I've tried recently to use a little rough grit sandpaper before filling the hole to give the putty some 'tooth' to cling to. It seems to work a little better but not much. That's one big reason this stuff from Jack seems interesting.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Monday, April 11, 2016 10:33 PM

I'm a long time user of Mr. Dissolved Putty and I rather like the stuff. It's actually my go to filler for injection marks. Yes, it has it's limitations in that it best used for smaller cracks and ridges. Yet, it sands beautifully. Also, it does shrink so, a couple of applications are usually in order. It dries very quickly though. I do suggest using it in a well ventilated enviroment as it packs a strong odor. I've just started using Perfect Plastic Putty and I do like the ability to smooth it out with a wet q-tip.

Glad you guys brought this up as my bottle of Mr. Dissolved had dried up. It was about 7yrs old. So, I quickly went to Amazon and ordered up a new bottle from Japan.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 10:09 AM

Hi Joe, thanks for mentioning that, never thought of checking Amazon for Mr. Dissolved Putty - the States have a very decent price, and free shipping too.  Then I tried Amazon.CA, um yeah, they must have left the lids open and inhaled deeply -$44.00 + shipping! 

I ordered mine from Australia, BNA Model World for $9.50 AUD.

regards,

Jack

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 10:34 AM

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 11:25 AM

Thanks Steve, that price even better.  That particular Ebay vendor won't ship outside US because of the chemical hazzard, which is the norm for most online US webstores.

regards,
Jack

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 11:38 AM

Oh shoot, sorry Jack I forgot you were in Canada.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 11:57 AM
I ordered some gunze paint from Hong Kong. It shipped on March 4th. Still waiting. I did use cheapest shipping

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, April 12, 2016 12:47 PM

tempestjohnny
I ordered some gunze paint from Hong Kong. It shipped on March 4th. Still waiting. I did use cheapest shipping
 

That seems a long wait. I often order kits from China on E-Bay and have never had to wait more than 2 weeks. But then i think i got my Me 410 from Japan before you did and you ordered yours before me.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Tuesday, April 19, 2016 4:42 PM
I did surface shipping. Airmail was fairly expensive.

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Tuesday, April 19, 2016 4:43 PM

Ok. Latest update on the Twin Mustang. Decals soon.

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Tuesday, April 19, 2016 10:23 PM

Twin Mustang looking good.

Surface shipping from Hong Kong -  I've done that few times when not in a rush because that thing takes the slow boat from China - but you do save some coin.  If it was just the lone bottle ordered, I can see why the shipping seemed high in relation to the product's price.

regards,
Jack

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Tuesday, April 19, 2016 10:47 PM

Superb paint job TJ. That is really sharp looking. Should be a real beaut with the decals on.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:23 AM

Yeap, that Twin Pony does look good! Looking forward to more photos.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:36 AM

tempestjohnny

Ok. Latest update on the Twin Mustang. Decals soon.

 

Thats looking good. I like the look of the one nose yellow and one OD, is this based on a real scheme or your own creation.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 11:02 AM

Bish

 

 
tempestjohnny

Ok. Latest update on the Twin Mustang. Decals soon.

 

 

 

Thats looking good. I like the look of the one nose yellow and one OD, is this based on a real scheme or your own creation.

 

A little bit of both.  I'm doing the schemes of two different Mustangs from the same pilot. It is a what if....

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 11:16 AM

Now i like that idea, nice touch.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 11:26 AM

I agree with Bish, that is a great idea! Looking forward to seeing the decals on it, TJ!

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 11:37 AM

Me three on that idea, pretty cool! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Saturday, April 23, 2016 1:33 PM
Thanks

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Saturday, April 23, 2016 6:16 PM

Ok, I've gotten a little more done, the road wheels and treads are on. Sorry, she's still glossy which puts a glare on some of the detail. I just went and sprayed some mud coloured paint on the running gear, you should be able to see a little where I sprayed some in the crevices before installing the wheels and treads.

 

I have to admit I've been a bit distracted. I've been playing the wargame Soviet Corps every night when I should be working on this. Embarrassed

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

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