Metal masters GB 2016 (1Feb to 31 July)

O,

I give you kudos for masking and doing this. I don't have the skill to try that. That being said, I would touch up the teeth, assuming I had the skillset you do.

bvallot,

Thanks for the info on that tape.  I guess I must've missed it on Tamiya's website.  I'll have to look in to buying some.  Yeah, it's pricey, but like you said, it's just for the outline.

OK, so I came to the make-or-break point of my build and I need some feedback.  I wanted to build a Korean War F-80 from the 36th FBS when it wore the shark's mouth on the intakes.  I bought the AeroMaster decal sheet that has the shark mouth, but the shark mouth doesn't reach back into the intake like the paint did on the real thing.  Instead of using the decal and trying to paint match to cover the rest of the intake, I decided to try and mask the whole thing.  Here are my results:

Overall, I'd give myself an 8 out of 10, but I'm not sure if I'm totally satisfied with the results. Here's where you come in.  Do you think they have that "field applied" look, or do you think I should go back and clean up the edges of the teeth?  I figure I could go back with a fine tipped brush and clean up the white, but do I need to?  The pictures I've seen of these airframes aren't really clear enough to show how sharp the demarcation lines were.  Please, share your thoughts.  I have to wait for the red to dry anyway, so I have some time to make a decision.

Thanks for the feedback!

Cheers,

-O

Here O. This is what you're looking for:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/finishing-supplies-62000/masking-tape-for-curves-2mm-87177

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tamiya+curve+tape&clk_rvr_id=991956453696&adpos=1o2&treatment_id=7&crlp=71138937662_857&MT_ID=70&device=c&rlsatarget=kwd-122167350542&keyword=tamiya+curve+tape&geo_id=10232&poi=&crdt=0&ul_noapp=true

Just a few links to help you get started.  This stuff is meant to lay down nice and smooth without wrinkles.  I hear great things about it.  Kind of expensive but It's really only for defining the curve.  I imagine you're using something else to fill the space around your masking. =]

Omar the more the merrier....bring on the Jug :-)

Theuns

Hey Theuns,

Quick question for you.  I went back and reread the rules, but they don't say anything about WIFs. I have a P-47 based project on the horizon that fits the NMF criteria, but the markings would be fictional.  I'm considering starting the project after my P-80 and posting progress here, but I want to make sure it's OK before I do.

Cheers!

-O

bvallot, 

Thanks for the info on the Tamiya tape.  You wouldn't happen to know what it's called, would you?  A quick (read: lazy) web search didn't pull anything up for me besides their normal yellow tape.  I'd be interested in looking into it further.

Thanks!

In regards to the SP, I've only run in to one problem, and that one problem is easily avoided.  If you look at my pictures above, you'll see that some of the delicate NMF paint has flaked off the plastic at the edges of the recessed detail.  The touch-ups are easy enough, but the problem can totally be avoided if you're careful.  The thing is that the SP can be pressed tightly against the plastic.  So tightly, in fact, that as you paint over it the paint doesn't have a "separating line."  So, what happens is, the paint continues from the plastic onto the SP in one continuous layer.  Pulling up the SP breaks the paint layer but sometimes it breaks it at a point where the paint flakes off the plastic.  The easy fix is to pack in your SP, then take your hobby knife and run it along the perimeter of the recessed area.  Or, take care not to pack your SP so tightly against the plastic as to not leave a very small gap as a breaking point to allow the paint on the SP to cleanly separate from the paint on the plastic.  Another quick fix to avoid the flaking is to carefully and gently press the SP further into the detail along the perimeter of the recess to break the paint at the detail's edge.  Then pull out the SP.  Hopefully everything I've said makes sense.  If not, feel free to ask me for clarification.  Keeping these little details in mind will make masking with SP a piece of cake.  Good luck!

Regards,

-O

O, that SP idea is damn amazing.  I wouldn't have thought to try it.  I was thinking it'd leave a greasy, oily film...but apparently not huh.  Thanks for sharing! =]  One more thing to add to my tool box.

Your P-80 is coming along quite well. Very polished! I always feel that there's some horrible seam or scratch or what have you looming around on my build.  To see other's setting up for a NMF and how smooth everything looks makes me feel as though I have no patience whatsoever.  Hats off to you.

I do have a thought in regards to your painting along the curves.  Tamiya just came out with a tape specifically for masking curves.  It's supposed to working spectacularly well. Something to consider.  I recall you tackling that red curved line on the mustang you just finished, so I'm sure you'll do make quick work of this as well.

Omar that P-80 looks like alluminium to me mate ;-)

I like your silly putty idea.

Brandon those stripe decals are single piece units. Look out for another MNF gb later in the year if there is enough interest :-)

Theuns

Hey FSM,

After seeing Theuns and BD's awesome looking Sabres, I humbly present my progress.  First, a couple of quick shots for BD...

Hey BD, I wanted to quickly show you how cleanly Silly Putty lifts from even deeply recessed detail.  Here are two shots of my main gear wells.

In the first one you can see how the SP pretty much comes out in one big chunk with little to none left in the detail.

This second one shows that there's no oily residue left in the well.  Also, the SP came out without lifting any of the paint or wash, which incidentally, hasn't been sealed yet.

Hopefully these give you an idea of how easy SP is to use as a mask.

Now, for pix of my progress...

I've pretty much finished the overall airframe painting.  I've gotten the wing walkways painted, but I still need to paint the antiglare panel and the radome.  (Wing tanks and stabilizers are only dry fit for the photos.)

I still need to paint the nose markings.  I have some decals, but because of the complex curves of the airframe, I'm afraid I won't be able to get them to lay down.  To avoid trying to color match paint for the inevitable touch-ups, I just figured I'd try to paint them.  So, for now, my attention will be directed towards creating a mask.  For now, this is where my build stands.

Again, feel free to share your thoughts.  Comments and criticisms are welcome.  Thanks for looking!

-O

Grab you a badge BD. =]

Theuns, again, man - great job on that! I have no idea how you got those decals to go down so well. Stripe decals never work out for me, let alone multi-stripe decals like you've got. And thanks again for sharing your paint using one color technique. It made my life a lot easier on my Sabre.

-BD-

Thanks, all!

Oortiz - No, no, no - Your P-80 looks way better than my F-86, and you started with a less-polished kit to begin with. There's a ton of skill there, and I'm envious.

Theuns - We basically finished at the same time. I finished mine up on Tuesday night as well.

I stole Theuns' method of using Airframe Aluminum over gloss black as well. I just masked as I went for the different shades, as he described.

As for another metal plane, I don't think I have one in me before the close of this build. The only one I have in my stash is a P-38, and while I do want to build it, I have several in front of it for various reasons.

But I will definitely be watching this as you all add to it. I do live a shiny plane!

-BD-

Yes just airframe allu over gloss black enamel.

I spray the whole thing till I get a dark allu look, mask of pannels and spray more to make it lighter. Then the difference is not so dramatic.

I am sure I will do another , just don't have one in the stach, need to go get one.

Theuns

Very nice Theuns. I still can't believe y'all knock these out so fast.  They certainly don't look rushed.  Is this all just one color Alclad? Airframe Aluminum??

Are you up for another?

Larry, I forgot I wanted to mention that Lawdog has a pretty nifty way of painting anything checkered. I believe he's got a little tutorial of it on one of his mustang builds...Berlin Express I think. Fairly, simple and works like a charm.  Maybe if you dig through his posts or send him a message he could point you in the right direction.  I'll see if I can find it later on myself.  I plan on trying it his way when I finally pick a subject  that's checkered.   I think you'll like it. =]

No Omar, I do not believe that for a second ;-)

Theuns

Theuns, wow!  Great NMF.  The decals look great!  

2 great Sabres in as many days!  Boy, between you and BD, I'm almost embarrassed to show my NMF effort.  Next to these two metal finishes, my F-80's going to look like silver painted plastic!

  Cheers,

-O

I am calling it done....

I did not go for the airshow finish but rather a used but well maintained "line" aircraft.

It is actually a very nice kit and I enjoyed building it.

After looking closely I see I forgot the pitot mast! Just added now LOL 

Theuns

BD, that looks sharp!  Great finish!  Very nicely done.  Kudos!

Cheers,

-O

Welcome aboard Larry. =]

C'mon Brandon! Pull the trigger. That Airframe Aluminum is just to pretty to stay all couped up in a bottle. =]

Brandon that looks just fantastic mate ,well done! The metal to my eye looks just right and the decals finish it off well.

You beat me to the punsh with completion....I just completed myne last night LOL.

I will put a pic on the pix page, thanx allot for joining in ;-)

Are you gonne do another one? (come on....you know you want to)

@ Larry, you are very welcome to join in, I will update the roster.

Theuns

Hey Larry, good to see you over here.

Theuns,

I'd like to jump in with a 1/48 P-51D that will be a crossover with the Mustang group build. I plan to mark it as Charles Weaver's P-51D from winter 1944 through spring 1945 (see http://www.cebudanderson.com/357profileweaver.htm) using decals from KitsWorld.

Brandon, that Sabre looks amazing. I'll be happy (and more than a little amazed) if my D comes out half as nice.

Best to all,
Larry

Man we've got some fast building SOBs in here!! =]  Unbelievable some times.  Steve is right.  You definitely killed it.  I'm glad to see someone repeat this approach with similar results.  Very rewarding to see and it's exactly what you hope to have in a GB like this one.  

It seems you have some silvering with your stenciling on the wings and fuselage.  I find that nearly impossible to get rid of on a NMF.  I'm always cutting mine as close as I can get to the words as possible to eliminate this.  Have you tried any Solvaset. Stuff works wonders for me. I don't ever have the problems I hear people describing with decals.  I'm not sure how it reacts with the Aircraft Aluminum, but I've carefully applied it in small drops in the past when trying something new. Haven't ruined anything yet. Most of the regular Aluminums work just fine with it.  I'll bathe it on with those colors. =]

Very nice!  Anything else on deck?!

Well, I finished this one up last night and got thephotos shot this morning, so here she is:

1/48 Hasegawa (with Verlinden cockpit) F-86F-30 Sabre flown by Maj. James Hagerstrom, a two-war ace. This is "Mig Poison," in which he became a Korean War ace. This plane is from late 1953, so it still sports the black cockpit (the switch to gray seems to have been made on new machines in November 1953) and has the earlier style drop tanks.

The painting was done by priming in Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500 black, then laying down Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black as a base for the Alclad. At that point, I used thin vinyl tape to mask the black lines on the stripes, then shot the interiors with Model Master Insignia Yellow. After masking, the whole thing got a shot of Airframe Aluminum, and thanks to reading Theuns' post, I tried out using different numbers of coats for the color modulation, so there's nothing but Airframe Aluminum on this one (except for the interiors of the gear doors and speed brakes, which are White Aluminum).

The decals are from Super Scale, and I would rate them ok. The stencils on the port fuselage seem different than every other set I've seen, and there was some trouble with them settling down, but I am happy with them overall.

Ok, the pics:

Thanks all for having me in the build. I look forward to seeing all of your great work continue. What I've seen so far in here is really quite amazing!

-BD-

Oortiz - thanks! I'll pick some up and give it a shot.

-BD-

OK guys I’m starting the B-47. This is a rudimentary kit with raised panel lines, some flashing and very basic cockpit. This build should be a quick one as there are very few parts. The time consuming part will be the painting.

Hey FSM,  

Thanks for stopping by and taking a look at my build.  Let me go ahead and address a couple of the questions thrown my way.

bvallot - I've primarily used the white primer until this build.  I (unsuccessfully) tried the grey primer on a couple of parts.  (The failure wasn't the primer's fault.  Total user error.)  It goes on the same, if not, a little smoother.  The only difference is the final sheen of the metal coat.  To my eye, the grey gives it a bit of a "shinier" finish.  Other than that, I really haven't seen any differences.

BrandonD - In regards to using Silly Putty as a mask, I can say that it's way better than Blu-Tac.  I've tried BT for masking camo, but I don't like how it leaves an oily residue when you peel it off.  Also, it seems to lose some "stick" when it gets "dirty."  I don't have that problem with SP.  It peels off cleanly and easily with no residue.  Also, even after it's been painted, it still sticks well.  As a matter of fact, I just knead the old paint back into the SP ball and reuse it.  I've been using the same SP for a few builds now.  Pulling SP out of recessed detail is easy.  BT likes to stick to other things as much as it likes to stick to itself.  I know that makes it tough to pull out of deeply recessed detail.  Not so much with SP.  It likes to stick to itself more than the plastic; painted or not.  Even if a little SP gets left behind when you pull it up, using a bit of SP to pull itself out of the recessed detail works like a charm.  

Give SP a try.  I promise you won't go back to using BT.  

Anyway, if there's anything else I can answer, feel free to ask.  Again, thanks for dropping me a line.

Cheers!

-O