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RAF 100th Anniversay GB

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Friday, July 7, 2017 11:16 PM

Walrus woes:

For several years I've done washes and filters with Meda Com.Art acrylic paints. They're not really made for styrene (although their opaque white is a cracker jack paint for a fading snow effect) but the disadvantage works for you. They resemble clay washes more than anything else (Flory's probably the best and maybe only). But not really. Unlike any acrylic paint I know, you can at least partially reactivate your work with perhaps warm water or the lightest airbrush cleaner you know the day after application. So you can remove or redistribute what you don't quite like.

 

Where I really like this stuff is filters. Half the colors in the Com.Art range are "transparent" , half opaque. To be honest, I'm really not sure what the agent is in Com.Art. But when sprayed (or hand brushed) it has a kind of grainy texture - not visible but there. Add a tad of say "transparent smoke" or black and don't try to remove every bit of paint and the result is a kind of genuinely grime feeling and look. To me, that's an advantage. I know this is repetition for most. But if you apply a pinwash (waken up certain points) it requires a satin or gloss finish so the paint beads up and doesn't fall into the general surface. (I must admit that I've grown fond of spray cans for creating a quick satin or gloss finish.) A filter must go on satin or flat finish - the flatter the finish the less easy to make too many changes because the paint will get deeply into the finish. The same factor makes it possible for a highly thinned filter to make subtle changes in surface color/variation. (This is all relative: if something goes wrong it's possible and really not hard to strip most of a model of mega-screw ups and start over.) In a filter, often done nowdays with oils, Com;Art is splendid, especially if you use transparent colors that are highly thinned. (Stuff works so well that hand brushing works great - make a filter you think that won't show much if at all, dab it on with your biggest brush, and check things in about 3 minutes. Add more, throw in some extra colors - I think filters beg for paint mixing - or even take some off. ) When modelers like Mig Jimenez/Adam Wilder or others in the "Spanish School" they were successful enough to completely alter what was expected for a "weathered" model. And they and others have made a mini-industry out of making products that most of us should be able to make ourselves. Personally I don't complain. I still greatly admire the idea put forth by past armor-guru Tony Greenland who said he chose to model German tanks and not the mud they fought in. Ship modelers can literally try to "model a model" - no warship ever appears spanking new out of the water but every single one of them had design models of the ship type that cost $thousands a piece to make and sit in the homes of some of the world's most important naval-industrial types and museums. As far as planes go, every one of them started new. Anyway, do what you want and history supports you. Model anything like the above and you are faced with creating an extremely solid build with a deep and consistent paint job - no easy matter.

 

Mig and company (like the formidable Mike Rinaldi) counter with a twin argument - 1) military machinery is never clean people using it don't care especially in wartime 2) modeling is a hobby, a craft, and if you want to push for an extreme example of a heavily "distressed" ship, tank, plane, rusted pickup etc, it's your choice. You find examples of real world machinery that looks that way - or close - and it's up to you to try to create your own type of impact. However, one criticism of the Mig, Wilder and others is spot on: you can use heavy weathering to hide mistakes. You can also use it to mitigate poor build. And I would never overestimate the ability of anyone who looks at a friend's model to think "bloody rotten seam line there." And you're dealing with seaplanes - they're like biplanes - there's just an inherent "neat" factor in all of them. Hasegawa still collects full price for their Kawanishi AK71 kit which is 45 years old and by all accounts a bad model. Methinks that if you get the Walrus done, even if it's a big rough around the edges, (considering It's the kit equivalent of a 1962 Ford Falcon) I bet a lot of thumbs up will follow.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Saturday, July 8, 2017 12:02 AM

Looks great PJ. I'm starting to experiment with that technique.

Beav, you poor guy. That kit has given you fits.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 8, 2017 2:17 AM

Das, ouch, thats not what you need. But at least it was only a wheel. I bet you will be so glad to get this behind you.

Nice job on the MG.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 8, 2017 2:18 AM

Nice job there PJ, thats really come out well.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Saturday, July 8, 2017 5:24 AM

DB - Irrespective of your unfortuante situation with the wheel, you have produce a great build.

PJ - Thanks for your early comments, the build is on hold till I get my peronal sh#t sorted out. Again you have produced another great build, excellent work with the pre shading. Also I have never tried the worm method for camo before but you show us you have mastered it. Keep up the great work and keep the images rolling in.

In Progress
1/48 Tamiya P47-D Bubbletop
1/48 Hobby Boss TBF-1C Avenger (on hold)
Pending
1/48 Roden S.E.5a
1/48 Airfix Walrus
  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Saturday, July 8, 2017 7:28 AM

That marbling came out very nice PJ! Breaks up the paint nicely. 

-Andy

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: .O-H-I-O....
Posted by DasBeav on Saturday, July 8, 2017 10:27 AM

Thanks, Damouav, Bish, and Modelcrazy for the words of encouragement. "It" should be finished this weekend. PJ love the paint job, I am envious. Eric thanks for the info, I just used "chalk" dust, water, and dish soap for my sludge.

 Sooner Born...Buckeye Bred.

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, July 8, 2017 3:30 PM

EB... I think the Walrus is coming out pretty good! It would be awfully boring to (as they like to say about Tamiya kits) Throw paint , glue, in with kit, shake box vigorously, open and remove completed model. lol... It would be nice to have one go fairly easy every now and again...

PJ...Paint looking good! The Spit is gonna shine! (Figuratively speaking). I like the look...

 

Well OK, a bit more from me...

DECALS!!! I like getting to this stage of a build.

May not be 100% proper location, Huh? But I didn't feel like cutting and trying to fit around racks, (sorry).

About all I have left is the touch up, and Clear coating to do and I should be about done. No dull coat on this one, I'll use a semi gloss instead this time. OK, More later! Keep up the great work all! Take care,

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 8, 2017 4:15 PM

I do like the decalling stage Doug. That is looking amazing in those markings. Good choice in keeping this clean. As a display bird it would have ben kept spotless. Can't wait to add this one to the roster.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Saturday, July 8, 2017 9:06 PM

Doug - Some great work you have done here mate, your Tornado is on the home straight. Before you know you will be flying into a new build... bad pun.

In Progress
1/48 Tamiya P47-D Bubbletop
1/48 Hobby Boss TBF-1C Avenger (on hold)
Pending
1/48 Roden S.E.5a
1/48 Airfix Walrus
  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, July 8, 2017 9:06 PM

I agree Bish... both will be in good "Clean" condition, for the reason you stated. And Yes, I do like the looks of it in these colors! Thanks!

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, July 8, 2017 9:11 PM

damouav

Doug - Some great work you have done here mate, your Tornado is on the home straight. Before you know you will be flying into a new build... bad pun.

 

LOLOL...Thanks Damion... Big Smile

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Saturday, July 8, 2017 9:18 PM

No problem Doug, credit given when credit due.

DamiAn

In Progress
1/48 Tamiya P47-D Bubbletop
1/48 Hobby Boss TBF-1C Avenger (on hold)
Pending
1/48 Roden S.E.5a
1/48 Airfix Walrus
  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, July 9, 2017 10:31 PM

flickr test

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Sunday, July 9, 2017 10:40 PM

EBergerud

Yes, it will.

You need a Google Photo account, load images into a new album of your choice, open folder, select an image and right click, copy image location, go to fms and select image place function, paste copied data from Google Photos, done.

Damian

In Progress
1/48 Tamiya P47-D Bubbletop
1/48 Hobby Boss TBF-1C Avenger (on hold)
Pending
1/48 Roden S.E.5a
1/48 Airfix Walrus
  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, July 9, 2017 11:20 PM

Damien,

 

We might be close here but there's something missing. The links I've uploaded are "hot" (if you clicked them you'd get a pic) but they don't show up as pics. So help me out here and try to be exact. I have an alblum with two pics in it. I select the pic (don't expand it) and right click: there is a "copy"- but it creates a copy of the picture inside the album.

I did use share after right click. I have settings for share to chose from: mine are set for public. The two below are done in that manner.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3thqs5bjuYIX1RCWnBzc1BFRzg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3thqs5bjuYIX1RCWnBzc1BFRzg/view?usp=sharing

Let's see.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, July 9, 2017 11:33 PM

As you can see, I do have hot links but nothing that will show automatically. I don't doubt a very simple step is missing. Any idea?

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, July 9, 2017 11:40 PM

DB:  fine looking Lewis guns!  Good work.  

pj:  very attractive paintwork on the Spitfire

Doug:  outstanding accomplishment!  The camouflage works great.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Sunday, July 9, 2017 11:44 PM

flickr

https://flic.kr/s/aHskYn1Jn7

 

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, July 10, 2017 12:04 AM

Eric, if useing the Share method of Flickr, you need to copy and paste the BBCode link.

 Swatch by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, July 10, 2017 12:16 AM

 

First of all, thankee bish: I had no idea that was what I supposed to do - although I discovered it right before reading yours msg because IMGUR had a detaled look at all of the share formats. The problem with tutorials for bigtime online products is that a command may be there in May and not be there in June. Same thing cripples YouTube.

 

Flickr and Google I think will work nicely but for the time being we'll use Imgur.

 

Posted this last week.

 

 

Hats off to all in the GB – some fine kits are going to result.

 

 

 

I've finished the masking and will start painting soon. (Real world is going to interfere during July 4th week.) I've used a new technique that I think is going to work. If I were doing a tank I wouldn't bother creating masks – I'd just airbrush freehand. But as I understand it the RAF camo patterns were uniform depending upon theater and the period of war. Not usually a nut about precision, but I thought I'd try to do a proper mask particularly as this kit comes with 1:1 diagram of the aircraft with camo on it. Unfortunately the North Sea nightfighters had a different scheme, so I had to draw my own camo lines on the diagram.

 

 

 

For the mask itself I used a product called SureSwatch which is sold at Home Depot for $3 per 3sheets. (Tamiya makes masking paper at twice the price.) There's a picture of the stuff below. The side that has all of the text covers a plastic sheet that is adhesive on one side and coarse plastic on the other. I traced the bits of the camo pattern onto the coarse side (very easy to draw on – a smooth piece would be very hard to use a pencil or thin sharpie) and then cut them out of the plastic. There were a lot of camo sections so there were perhaps a dozen pieces. (The cut sheet shown is the remnant of the one sheet used: at least half is left) On thing nice about this procedure is that when you cut out the camo piece, the area around will act as the border of the second stage of camo painting after the first is done. It's adhesive but less so than Tamiya tape and will not remove any of the very sturdy auto lacquer primer I used. You can see what the plane looks like with the masking applied. As you can see I needed to use some tape on areas that weren't quite right. In any case, all of the unmasked black will be painted RAF Medium Sea Gray. When that's done the masking goes off and after the paint dries for a day, the reverse mask is applied and the RAF Dark Green goes on.

 

 

 

It's very possible that someone that's good with Tamiya tape could get good results in less time, especially if you're using that new Tamiya resin tape made for masking curves (5mm, 3mm, 2mm) which works very well.

 

 

 

Anyway, the next photos you see the plane should look a lot like a WWII Beaufighter. Or so I hope.

 

 

 

Eric

 

Think BBC code works for Flicker too?

 maskprep by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Monday, July 10, 2017 4:19 AM

Erick,

You can’t just paste the link text in the body that I am writing this in.

As mentioned, you need to paste the Google Photo image location (specifically "copy image address") it in the following manner;

 

 

 

 Select OK, your done.

DamiAn

In Progress
1/48 Tamiya P47-D Bubbletop
1/48 Hobby Boss TBF-1C Avenger (on hold)
Pending
1/48 Roden S.E.5a
1/48 Airfix Walrus
  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, July 10, 2017 6:16 AM

That is really coming along nicely Doug!

I was able to make some progress on the Hurricane this weekend. I've got the roundels aboun 90 percent masked and painted and was able to get the Sky color laid down on the underside. I tried a technique on the underside that I've seen a few people using, laid down the sky, then did some "marbling" with white and then went over that with a highly thinned coat of Sky again. Pretty happy with the results overall...

And with the masks removed...

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, July 10, 2017 6:23 AM

Nice job there Andy. Not sure if you mentioned it before, what masks are you useing for the markings.

I quite like that idea of laying down the abse colour, then marbel then a thin coat. I've not seen that before.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, July 10, 2017 6:44 AM

Thanks Bish. I cut the masks out of Tamiya tape using a circle template and exacto knife. Flex i file makes a compass cutter that I would like to get if I decide to keep painting roundels on my builds in the future. The circle template works ok but as you can see I got some rough edges as I had to go around a couple of times to cut through the tape. I also think it would make lining up each mask easier. I spent too much of my life trying to get each circle centered! LOL.

As far as the painting method, it's pretty easy. I thinned the white for the marbling quite a bit too so that it wasn't too stark and then just hit it with another base coat. I think it breaks it up nicely and I'm looking forward to trying it with the topside camo.

-Andy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, July 10, 2017 6:54 AM

Great job on making those masks. With a proper compass cutter, those are going to look awsome.

I have been trying black baseing but without much luck. I think i will give this a try, less chance of over doing it.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, July 10, 2017 7:35 AM

Bish

Great job on making those masks. With a proper compass cutter, those are going to look awsome.

I have been trying black baseing but without much luck. I think i will give this a try, less chance of over doing it.

 

Yeah I think it's easier (at least for me) to get a more subtle affect then when using black, whether black basing or panel line preshading.

-Andy

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Monday, July 10, 2017 10:33 AM

Andy, Very nice paint work on the Hurricane! I like the painted on markings...

And here are the completed pictures of my project. Very cool how the RAF chose to commemerate the 75th annivesary of the Battle of Britain. When I first saw these pictured together I wanted to build them. Thanks for the opportunity to be able to do so Bish!

Well , Thank you again for the chance to buils these... I'd like to do another and after satisfying another commitment I will be back! 

Thanks all, and keep up the great work!

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    September 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Monday, July 10, 2017 10:42 AM

Thanks and very nice finish Doug! Paint on both birds is great and it's cool seeing them sitting next to each other. Very well done!

-Andy

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 10, 2017 10:57 AM

What a diffrence in generations. Son and Grandpappy. Good work Doug. Yes

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

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