75th Anniversary of 1944 Group Build (World at War)

As noted earlier I'm going to try to weather the SU-76 entirely with acrylics - even going to try to skip oils this time. (I will use pigments - they're needed in all of my builds. They complement well "black basing" aircraft when a heavy weather look is desired.)  I don't claim this is ideal, but if the results are good, it would be reasonably fast and very easy for clean-up and lungs. (Oils are not really bad that way, especially when using the mildest mineral spirits. Oils are far easier to deal with than the various enamel products which I won't be using again because my build rooms are too small and lack a spray booth.) I use water based paints only also. And as none of my stuff will ever see a competition, I like to do something different on every build just to stay alert - approaching tasks from a different angle does make one think things through and that can't hurt. And if something works badly, I'll know that too. OK.

First weathering step (after decals which went on easily - I used Tamiya's decal solution and it's very good) is application of filters. Filters come in enamel form from companies like AK or Wilder. (Gotta hand it to Mig and Adam Wilder. They make good money creating products that can be easily made from scratch - or refining another one of their products. If somebody buys a brown enamel wash, thin it down and you've got a filter.) Lately I've been doing oil filters. Today it's acrylic in the form of Iwata Com.Art paints. Com.Art are made for paper specifically, and are very popular with airbrush artists. They will work just fine on plastic too if the surface is right. (They spray so well, that some day I'll try to paint a model with the stuff - fun to try. I have used them for winter white wash because they can be "revived" for some time and are easily removed gradually with a damp brush.) A few years back I found out that model railroaders use it for weathering and bought a "Real Deal Weathering Kit". Com.Art paints are either transparant or opaque - I weather with transparant. That makes them good for filters (cut with water), washes straight up and are really nice for panel lines if you want an understated effect. As we'll see later, they're great for grime. So despite Com.Art being made specifically for airbrushes, I only use them by hand. Filters should be applied to a matte surface. I'm using Tamiya's lacquer clears for changing surface texture so the acrylics won't wash into earlier layers - just as I'd use acrylic clears if I was using oils and mineral spirits.

Filters are subtle - if you wanted a major color shift, I think I'd use dry brushing or a light misting with an airbrush of a different shade. For the SU-76 I wanted to have another addition to an uneven surface color - but not as much as black basing the effect of which is muted here a little. I used three filters - but the colors differed depending upon the surface. On horizantal surfaces I wanted to lighten the hue - so I used a very light brown, light olive drab and blotches of heavily thinned opaque white. On the vertical surfaces I used a darker brown, a forest green/yellow and blotches of a darker green. Note I used blotches of light or dark colors - this is to keep things uneven. You do get "tide marks" on blotches, but I'm figuring that those will disaper after streaking and pigments. This is all pretty subtle and I hope you can see it. On the pic below note the small vertical surface on the upper left where a corner of the fighting compartment which has a periscope - there's an even smaller one a bit to the right. On those you can hopefully see the light shade with light blotches. Compare it to the darker colored vertical sides of the fighting compartment - there are darker blotches there too. The light piece on top of the fighting compartment also matches the horizantal surfaces below covering the engine and driver.

Filter1 by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

Now we apply a Tamiya clear coat and get ready for washes and panel lines.

Eric

Good instructional, Eric.  I've been thinking about filters using acrylics (on 1/700 ships), so your presentation here is very useful.

I appreciate your earlier comment about the 75th anniversary WWII GB's.  I left them open for anyone who wants to participate along the way.  The earlier ones are pretty inactive, so they don't take much monitoring.

And if anyone did start up an 80th anniversary GB, I'd probably join in.

Anyone interested in acrylic filters or washes should also check out Vallejo acrylic washes. They're thinned versions of Model Air paints - they come in about eight colors but black and sepia will get you a long way. They're different from Com.Art but you get to similar destinations. There's a very good Mig video on YT called "Acrylic Weathering Techniques." It's in four parts but was originally on one DVD. At the time the idea was to show how people who didn't like enamels for health reasons could do a great job with acrylics and pigments. Highly recommended.(They even work in Vallejo water colors. Now Vallejo, AK and Wilder are all putting out more acrylic weathering products - methinks there are a good number of folks that would pass on enamels if possible. Might point out that Vallejo started as an art paint company long ago. Check their web site - it has a portal to modelling products and a portal to art shop stuff. If you like Vallejo Model Colors the same paints are there in both portals - except that in most places art paints are about one half the cost. Blick Arts sells 4 oz bottles of Vallejo Fluid acrylics for about $6 or mediums (very good matte, satin and gloss) for $3 for 2 ounces. Blick does sell Vallejo "mixing" colors with very expensive pigments that you'll never see in their modeling line - they cost more but are invaluable if you learn color mixing. Frankly I prefer Golden to Vallejo, but Vallejo is cheaper and the mediums are excellent. Eric

Check, i had though about doing a series of 80th anniversay builds after i did the 70th one. But i think that would risk over doing it as these WW2 anniversary GB's have now been running since 2012. Maybe in 20 years we can run some 100th anniversary GB's

Perhaps as Eric says some more specific GB's would be an idea, the last few years seem to be been a lot of more open builds.

But for this one, can you put me down for the Revell 1/72nd Fw 200C-8. I checked my decal sheet and the subject i am doing is from 44. Probably be starting it in August, all going well.

That looking nice Eric, and some nice instruction on the weathering, really nice post.

I've updated the build roster with the Condor, Bish.  Great to have you doing another plane.  Looking forward to it.

I had a 1/72 Revell Condor decades ago.  Is this the same kit, or has it been updated?  

Just a correction, then Tigercat is 1/72nd scale. Opps, sorry about that. I'm going to start building year by year beginning with '39-'40 build. I'll post on that thread which model etc.

Not a problem, Tomcat.  I changed the scale on the front page.  

Glad to have you starting off with the first year of the war.  I've added your Heinkel to the '39-'40 build, too.

Looking forward to seeing how everything goes together.

Mine is the new tool from 2006. Before that they had a range of different versions which was last done in 95.

I have been wanting to do a Condor for ages. I always wanted to do a C-3 but Revell didn't do one so i opted for the 8. I have since got the Trumpeter 3 but thought i would do the Revell one first. Not often you get the chance to do a German subject with 4 engines.

Bish:  The Condor I had decades ago came out in the mid '60's.  It was written up in the old Scale Modeler magazine.  I remember they printed a kind of dramatic photo of the thing, bombing a ship on a sea of tin foil.  It was kind of neat.

As I remember, the parts fit was comparable to Revell's B-17 and Avro-Lancaster, also originally released in the mid-'60's; which is to say:  not too good.

 

Hi! I’m currently building a 1/48 P-47 Razorback “Touch of Texas” from 1944-45, and I’d like to join your group build, please. Ya got any openings? Thanks!

Quick question- Is it ok to enter my Piper into another GB when it’s in this one, too?

checkmateking02

Bish:  The Condor I had decades ago came out in the mid '60's.  It was written up in the old Scale Modeler magazine.  I remember they printed a kind of dramatic photo of the thing, bombing a ship on a sea of tin foil.  It was kind of neat.

As I remember, the parts fit was comparable to Revell's B-17 and Avro-Lancaster, also originally released in the mid-'60's; which is to say:  not too good.

 

 

Well, hopefully their newer one will be a better fit.

Galatians:  Glad to have you join up with the GB.  Thanks for your participation.  I've added your P-47 to the roster on the front page.  Who's the manufacturer?  I'll add that too.

 

KJV:  fine with me if you want to add the Piper to another GB.  If the other GB doens't mind crossovers, I don't either.  

Bish

 checkmateking02

Bish:  The Condor I had decades ago came out in the mid '60's.  It was written up in the old Scale Modeler magazine.  I remember they printed a kind of dramatic photo of the thing, bombing a ship on a sea of tin foil.  It was kind of neat.

As I remember, the parts fit was comparable to Revell's B-17 and Avro-Lancaster, also originally released in the mid-'60's; which is to say:  not too good.

 Well, hopefully their newer one will be a better fit.

 

checkmateking02

KJV:  fine with me if you want to add the Piper to another GB.  If the other GB doens't mind crossovers, I don't either.  

 

Thank you, checkmate.  

As to the Piper, I have made some progress. I have the four-piece canopy glued together now. 

Seats and sticks still have to go in.

Alright! Thanks! It’s a Revell Monogram kit. I’ll start posting photos once it gets rolling. 

Very nice, KJV.  What did you use to glue the clear canopy parts together?  

Thanks, Galatians.  I'll add the manufacturer to the front page.  Is it a recent release?

And to both of you on your screen names!  Good job!

Thank you again, check, for both of your comments! :)

For the canopy, I used Testors Clear Parts Cement which I got from Michaels. 

I haven't used that, KJV.  Is it a type of "white glue," like Elmers?  

It is milky. Here’s the bottle:

 

 

 

I haven't seen that before--but then, there aren't many local hobby stores left around here to go browsing in.  

I usually assemble multi-piece canopies, in place on the plane, using white glue like Elmers or the thicker craft type stuff; Sobo or Aleenes.  It's strong enough for the purpose, but I don't trust it to hold up against too much pressure.

So I'll be interested to see how the Testors stuff works for you.

:) Display base for Piper-

(I sanded and stained it):

Ready to get going on the Brewster Buffallo. 

 

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Is it gonna be a Finnish Buffalo?

John 3:16 KJV

Is it gonna be a Finnish Buffalo?

 

yes the model 239 Buffalo from the continuation war I think it can squeeze into 1944.

Nice! I’ve got a Buffalo kit, too; but I’m not starting it yet. It’s in my “baby stash”..... :)

No it’s a quite old kit. Got it as gift. Here’s an update on progress. Though, I’m not even finished adding on all these wires. It’s a rather slow job. 

Many thanks for your complement regarding my and KJV’s screen names! It is so nice that there’s still a way to share Christ’s true Gospel. And great to see others doing the same!