FINISHED!  Can't tell you how ecstatic I am over this one because I think the image I was trying to capture is really representative of the cruise. Here is the USS Vandegrift as fitted out in 1995. I've weathered her for an active cruise doing missile system tests as shown here (Wikimedia Commons):

And my representation:

I plugged the original hole for the rudder and offset it like the real thing. The prop is aluminum color on the drydock photos I have so recreated that look here. Yes, I found the prop on my workbench!

Testors clear canopy/window glue used across the board.

GMorrison

Modelcrazy- please revise the roster to add Revell 1/540 CVB-41 USS Midway full hull conversion.

Ooops, sorry about that GM, done 

Awesome job on that hull. I like the filling on the stern. Good idea about the scap styrine gap filler.

Modelcrazy- please revise the roster to add Revell 1/540 CVB-41 USS Midway full hull conversion.

The heavy lifting for Frankenship is complete. The Forrestal lower hull worked well, esp. in the middle sections. I did build up a new stern, and had to splice styrene into some of the bigger gaps.

A trick I've learned for filling gaps with styrene. Let's say you have a gap that's more or less 0.020". Rather than try to fish a 0.020" strip into it, take a scrap of 0.020" sheet styrene and force it in edgewise. Do it an inch or so at a time. Flood with solvent cement. When dry, trim off the extra and sand it down to be flush.

Bill

Thanks!

The bag or aluminum foil would have worked well.

The Micro mask just diapeared. I could not find it after the paint dried.

I went with the old school of a micro brush and flat black.

Or poke a hole in a piece of aluminum foil.

When masking the whole model to spray something like that I tend to just stick the model in a plastic shopping bag and cut a small slit to stick the portion I want to paint out of it. 

Would save you a bunch of tape and doesn't have the issues of peeling up the paint.  

White glue works well too.

Micro Mask sounds like an good and easy idea

Thanks!

I've masked the boat and put a few drops of Micro-mask on the periscopes and snorkel.

When the micro mask is dry I'll hit it with some camo grey. Hopefully the mask will come off easily. I've not had good luch with it in the past. 

Yeah Mach71 that does look sharp!!! 

Thanks! 

Now it's all the little things that are left to do.

Very nice, Mach. 

TheMongoose

OHHH THAT LOOKS SHARP!

mach71

Thanks!

 

The red went on today. It needs a few touch-ups, but so far I'm happy with it.

 

 

 

OHHH THAT LOOKS SHARP!

Thanks!

The red went on today. It needs a few touch-ups, but so far I'm happy with it.

I have PE 4 tie downs from the Seaview kit I'll add. 

I've been fooling around with a few things to make the lower bow sensor. So far I'm 

not happy with anything I've come up with.

Yeah, that does look good Mach71 esp after all the krap you went though to get there! 

Oooh she sure looks sharp mach

T e d

Nice  

Finally got some bench time. 

The semi gloss black paint.

So far it looks good. I hope to get a coat of red on the bottom tomorrow.

Gamera many thanks my friend it’s my ADD I try to keep it in check . 

Nick: Beautiful job there on your PT boat!!! And congrads on being to first to cross the finish line. 

Great work all around guys, don't want to leave anyone out. 

Thank you Admiral sir. Lots of fun not as sophisticated as Mongoose,mach71 or bakster. I do like very much how PE looks on ships and yes Im in for the german ship GB .

this was very much out of my comfort zone....

again thank you for your comments and for watching. (hope i didnt leave anyone out)

Mongoose, as far as the heavyness it's really how you want to portray her. Yes the Navy work hard to keep rust down but sea water, waves and wind take a serious toll on steel, paint and wood. You just can't always get the deck apes over the side in Boatwain's chairs to needle gun and repaint while underway. However, once in port, over the side they go!

crown r n7

The Revell out of the box PT boat is done .This kit brought back many a memory thank you for all your comments and for watching.

painted with tamiya field gray and hull red. weathering with masters touch oil paint and chalks.

 

Congratulations!

1st to the dock and a comendation! Well done sir.

TheMongoose

Ok guys looking for some input here - i was thinking the rust stains from the bilge holes would mellow out after putting a flat clear on it, but it didn’t. Take a look at these and tell me if they need to be lighter, or if i can do something to make them more realistic? Used 3 colors when doing it. Put on a drop and then pulled it down. Tried to keep the brush damp but not dry or wet. 

 

Heres a few more pics. Hey what would a group build be without tons of pic right! I sprayed clear yellow, i think 3 coats, along the whole bottom width. Then went back and sprayed brown down the center. These re with the clear coat on it. Let me know what you think?

I looked through some other builds and tried to duplicate some methods. In the end it’s about how the effect comes across so very interested in your thoughts and ideas on weathering.

chris

 

 

 

 

 

 

It looks a tad heavy to me, but I'm not a ship guy. 

Looking at the size of your ship and the level of detail, I'm just amazed! 

Great job so far.

I do the same, but use the acrylic versions of those paints over Future, heavily diluted in Turpenoid.

modelcrazy

I usually prefer to use oils for weathering ships. Burnt sienna for light or running rust and burnt umber for old rust, thinned withs some Turpenoid and allowed to just run. It can be wiped off and redone if needed. For the hull fading I use light vertical coats of grey for a hint of wear.

Steve, your example looks really good. I am taking notes.

crown r n7

For the first completed build, you are hereby presented with the Navy commendation ribbon.

I put your build on the wall, and make sure you grab a badge. It was fun to have you aboard sir and again, fantastic job.

Make sure you see us next year for the German ships GB starting Aug 2020.

Mongoose,

I usually prefer to use oils for weathering ships. Burnt sienna for light or running rust and burnt umber for old rust, thinned withs some Turpenoid and allowed to just run. It can be wiped off and redone if needed. For the hull fading I use light vertical coats of grey for a hint of wear.