Thanks guys, but yea some subjects that really interest me I tend to devout more time researching than actualy building. 1940 BoB is certainly one of those areas.

regards,

Jack

Bish

Will do gomeral. never herad of the Seagull, just looked it up. I've used plenty of resin AM and built some large scale resin aircraft engines as well as a 35th resin vehicle. But i have not yet tackele one of my resin aircraft. Main advice is to take your time and dry fit twice before commiting to glue.

 

In the carpentry trade they teach to 'measure twice and cut once' so it's the same idea that Bish recommended.

Harold

Everything looks awesome guys!!!

Steve: Those 'spinning' props I used on my Zero last year I liked. I did have some issues masking off the yellow warning areas but I think that was my fault. 

Will do gomeral. never herad of the Seagull, just looked it up. I've used plenty of resin AM and built some large scale resin aircraft engines as well as a 35th resin vehicle. But i have not yet tackele one of my resin aircraft. Main advice is to take your time and dry fit twice before commiting to glue.

Hey, there, Bish.  I've been out a while, so although I showed my interest in the feeler, I haven't officially signed up here.  Please put me down for a Pro Resin 1/72 Supermarine Seagull ASR-1.  I've never built resin before, so this will be (one way or another!) a learning experience for me...

Good to see you up and running Steve. Not seen that spining prop before, or even heard of that brand. I do like the no blades option for a flying aircraft. I have a Ju 88 i will be doing on the ground with engines shutting down. I opted for prop blurs as i felt they would beter suit the props not at full power. Be keen to see how yours turn out.

Yep, Jack is da bomb. Knows his s^^t.

Bish, I'm starting this year's massive GB obligation with the little guy I subed for the Kongo (still sad about that).

I got this fella from HobbyLobby when all kits were 40% off and I since I didn't have any other Spits in the stash, I figured what the heck.

So to offset by at least 3X the money I saved from the sale, I of course bought some after market decals and other AM. I did buy a resin seat for it but don't know why exactly. I guess I was still deciding if I wanted it flying or on the ground. Since the kit included a pilot, I went with flying. Also since I really don't care for the half black half white underside marking....

I went with new decals. Plus now I have spare British markings for future Spits 

A flying propeller aircraft, the prop!!! I've tried a few diffrent methods from thin clear sheet (meh) to no prop at all (actually that doesn't look too bad) but this time I'm trying one from AM Model Works. The package states it's for the Mk.III, the PE sheet says Mk.II and the kits Mk.I propeller fits within it's radius so I'll use it.

So that's a long winded way of saying I started my Spit build.

Jack certainly knows his stuff Harold.

jgeratic

This should come in handy:

 

 

regards,

Jack

 

Harold

That seems weird.  I thought they were all basic semi-gloss black.  I looked at the instructions in the Tamiya 1/32 kit and it calls for X-18 Semigloss black for the major parts and most of the detail parts.  The handbook in the kit with photos shows a Mark VIII with colors about like the ICM kit but it's a museum airplane and I wouldn't think it reflects what was correct in WW II.

Thanks for the compliments guys. I appreciate it. Im just glad I did the kit justice. Ive sat on it for so long because I wanted to make sure I did a decent job on it.  Now onto another one thats the same situation, the Hasegawa RAAF Mitchell. 

I started the ICM Mk. VIII.  Not much to look at but its started.

Deeve: That's beautiful!!! I too honestly wouldn't have noticed any of the issues if you hadn't pointed them out! 

You should be proud of her, fantastic!!! 

jgeratic

Deeve, I like it, and a Canadian Squadron to boot.

 

regards,

Jack

 

Doing a little research, Lorne Cameron is laid to rest not far from where I live. 

Deeve, I like it, and a Canadian Squadron to boot.

regards,

Jack

fotofrank

Deeve, that's one fine looking Spitfire. Really well done.

Don't be telling us what's wrong with it 'cause we'll never notice...lol.

The build just looks too good overall.

 

Your Spitfire looks great, Deeve, nice finish.  Don't Worry, Be Happy

Deeve, that's one fine looking Spitfire. Really well done.

Don't be telling us what's wrong with it 'cause we'll never notice...lol.

The build just looks too good overall.

Very nicely done there Deeve. Came out great despite the issues you have had.

Thanks for taking part, i have added a pic to the front page.

OK. Finnally wrapped up my Hasegawa Spitfire MK.IXc. I added more aftermarket to this kit than any kit I have ever done. Years ago I built a Hasegawa Typhoon and ruined the upper wing roundels. I poached the ones from this kit to finish the Typhoon so I had to find some decals to replace the box ones and picked up EagleCals #116 decals. I decided on AE-W, Lorne M Cameron's aircraft. Simply because I liked the skeleton nose art.  On top of that I had to replace the wheels due to the lack of 5 spoke wheels included in the kit. Had 3, 4 spoke and solid wheels but not 5. When I ordered the wheels from Ultracast, I also picked up some exhaust stacks. Previously I had picked up Dept of Correction early Spitfire Mk IX prop and spinner. Luckily Lorne's aircraft was an early MK IX so I could use it. I also picked up some Eduard Superfabric belts. I cut off the outer cannon fairing as the aircraft had it deleted. I cut out the door and added the handle and locking bar. I used a Cricut Machine to make masks for the roundels, Identification markins and the tail markings. I used the Cricut to make the canopy masks from a picture I found online. I also hucked out the tail wheel gear and added brake lines to the landing gears.

Things I screwed up. I got some bleed under the canopy masks. As usual, I suck at canopies. I broke the tab that attaches the spinner to the fuselage, so I had to drill everything out and use a toothpick. I neglected to shave off the bulges on the wings as per instructions, until after I had already assembled and primed the whole shebang. Its gone, but you can tell it was there, its all wavery and uneven. I did a poor job of it. I also attached the canopy pieces before I realised I neglected to install the gun sight. That was not easy to put in place with the canopy in place. 

Anyways, onto the evidence.

Deeve, 68GT, & Tojo: Those all look awesome guys!!! 

jeaton01

My Silhouette likes dxf files, which I draw in Autocad but a less expensive drafting program should be able to output that type of file.  I'm using version X6 for Corel Draw and it doesn't work for me.  The newer versions than X6 are not likely to handle them well either, but I don't know.  The Silhouette software is hard for me to work with but that may be because once I made dxf files from Autocad work there was no point in going further.

 

CorelDraw is great for drawing decals because it handles colors far better than AutoCad. 

 

I actually used a DXF file when I was saving in Coreldraw 9. Worked ok for that. But I would like to have the options for other file types too.  Ive heard the Silhouette has better software than the Cricut.

My Silhouette likes dxf files, which I draw in Autocad but a less expensive drafting program should be able to output that type of file.  I'm using version X6 for Corel Draw and it doesn't work for me.  The newer versions than X6 are not likely to handle them well either, but I don't know.  The Silhouette software is hard for me to work with but that may be because once I made dxf files from Autocad work there was no point in going further.

CorelDraw is great for drawing decals because it handles colors far better than AutoCad. 

This should come in handy:

regards,

Jack

Roster is updated, i think i have everyone.

jgeratic

Deeve, great job with the custom masks.  Does your cricut machine have a program that automatically converts jpeg (or whatever image file type you used)?  Usually masks are designed using vector software.   All linear drawing, and is scalable to any size afterwards, with lines remaining consant width.

 

regards,

Jack

 

Yeah, the Cricut software that comes with it allows you to import a JPG, PNG, GIF, whatever image file format you prefer. It imports it and vector drawings as well. When I did the Roundels, I actually created them in Coreldraw, using a vernier caliper to measure the decals, then sized the circles up on the grid in the Cricut software so I got them the correct size. Worked out pretty well. But the Letters were just straight from the scan of the decals. Same thing with the tail markings. With the tail markings, I actually went into the JPG and smoothed out the lines, which was easy since they are all straight. 

I am excited to have this machine, there are so many possibilities. I also found an image of the canopy masks, cleaned it up a bit and cut them. I used my hacked canopy masks, I am about to peel them off to see how they turned out. Hopefully its adequate. 

Only bad thing is that I think I am going to have to buy a copy of Coreldraw. I downloaded the trial version of the current one. Problem is it is like $350. I have a copy of version 9, it works in widows 10, but it lacks so many features and doesnt save in the format that the Cricut software uses. 

I'm in with this ICM Mk VIII in 1/48 scale. If the old Aeromaster Decals hold up I'll be building this one from 457 Squadron.

Gary, that is some nasty paint lifting.  I suspect the fact that you had a layer of metallic paint underneath affected the adhesion of the black paint?   RAF Night is not a true black, and is often described as a dark blue-grey, composed of carbon black and ultramarine blue pigments. 

Given that the white/black underwing was an important visual aid for friendly recognition, it's doubtful it woud be left to weather to such a state - but it is your model. If you are going to repaint, I'd suggest a Nato Black hobby paint.

Deeve, great job with the custom masks.  Does your cricut machine have a program that automatically converts jpeg (or whatever image file type you used)?  Usually masks are designed using vector software.   All linear drawing, and is scalable to any size afterwards, with lines remaining consant width.

regards,

Jack