Battle of Midway Aircraft Group Build

Bob I use a Paasche VL airbrush. Pretty much the same as the H, but it's double action. There is a rubber washer in the valve assembly that can be harmed if you soak the thing in laquer thinner. I usually take the whole airbrush assembly apart and then soak it in lacquer thinner. Other than that, Tom's method will do the trick.

Tom That's a good idea mate. I'm gonna have to try windex for cleaning out my AB. Sounds better than giving my lungs a shot of laquer thinner every time I clean it out. You've just added 5 years to my life mate.....

And I think I've worked out the problem with the canopy. The bigger ones are not fitting properly over the smaller ones. It's like the small ones are too big to fit inside the bigger ones.

Jules I use a similar method to your run down method. I add a bit of thinner, then I stick a toothpick in it. If the paint covers the toothpick well, but looks thin enough (it usually drips off the end easier), then I know I've got it right. Not very precise, but it works well for me.

QUOTE: And BTW make sure you filter the paint with a ladies stocking to remove any airbrush clogging lumps

Bob - don't listen to Jules... he's a pervert... haha kidding, that is a good hint for ya... you might want to print what we said here in case one of your buddies comes over and sees a pair of stockings with the price tag still on them in your room... that way you can prove it's really for modeling...

Thanks Tom I'll make a start on it straight away And thanks for the cool link

Bob Yeah mate everything that Tom said, I use Tamiya Thinners for every paint i use, Tamiya X20 for enamels and X20a for acrylics......
The mix ratio , well if if i were you i'd go for about a 60% paint to a 40% thinner ratio, i personally don't measure the ratio cause i've noticed that not all paint in the jars is the same consistency, my method is the run down method, basically i mix it up and stick a clean paintbrush in it and then push the paintbrush onto a smooth vertical surface, if the paint doesn't run down it's too thick and if it runs down like water it's too thin......
And BTW make sure you filter the paint with a ladies stocking to remove any airbrush clogging lumps

Bob - I use Tamiya thinner... it has a retarder of some type in it that slows drying time of the paint allowing a smoother finish and seems to make it easier to airbrush, you can get a big bottle of it from squadron.com or greatmodels for about $6.00 and like the needle lube it last forever (well about 6 months to a yr of moderate building) Mine is about 1/3 full still after I'd say 5 kits or more. (it's the 750 ml one)

I used to use the same Tamiya thinner to clean the AB but switched to windex. take your cup off (if you only have one) empty the excess paint back into the bottle, spray windex into it, run a qtip around the walls of the cup then pour out the windex ... use a paper towel to wipe out the excess.

Reload with windex, spray it through at about 40 to 50 psi, remember to backflush in there somewhere (at a lower PSI put a rag or something over the tip and gently push the trigger down, the air will bubble back into the cup bringing with it any more paint inside the body) finish spraying out the rest... when it comes out clear just put some distilled water (89 cents a gallon at the grocery store) in the cup and spray it through and you should be done!

about every 15 to 30 hours of spraying, or if you notice the spray pattern is getting erratic, soak the removable parts of the brush (unless there is a rubber o-ring in there, better check with another paasche H owner first) in lacquer thinner for about 15 min, use a qtip or a microbrush to remove any paint in there and you are ready to go till another tune up!

Good luck!!! Let us know how you like it, I think the next model you do with it will make you one happy man!!! And I'd stick to a plain color scheme the first time or two to get used to it. Something like Tweets maniacal squiggle schemes is something that needs more practice! (and a screw loose or two)

QUOTE: Originally posted by tho9900 Jules - MM does have some nice paints, and a great selection too! I use both those and the MM acrylics and love them both!!! Both seem rather consistent in the way the go on and the finish achieved...

Tom-Pulled this one from the BoB GB-what type of thinner do you use with the MM acrylics and what ratio paint/thinner? And what do you clean the AB with? Yes, the Paasche H arrived and hopefully I can carve out some time this weekend to practice.

Thanks

Jules - just to clear it up... Dad never gave me one of those 9 o' clock whippings, he just started asking mom where the belt was about 8:30 because at 9pm that was what was in line.. got me so nervous I didnt wanna chance it. (kidding, he never did this but it does sound like a good plan!)

As far as switchng builds... no! I am supreme dictator moderator of this build and I say no!!! Ok you can... I peeked in the box of mine and it looks like a straightforward build... it's nice to have that once in awhile.. detail is nice, but so if finishing a kit! check out www.j-aircraft.com for references .. everything about Japanese AC you could want to know there! Including some interesting conversations on what color the "white" AC really were... ash grey, grey or true white...

(Don't tell anyone but I haven't finished anything since the Martlet.. I'm real close in some cases but thats about it)

Well i can see how that would work Tombut i think i'm too much of a softty to be whippin me kidsHmm those little buggers have me right where they want me eh.....

BTW Tom I hate to ask this but would you mind if i cahnged my build to a not so time consuming Tamiya 1/48 Zero........
I only ask because like the rest of you blokes i jumped into perhaps too many Gb's, it's all good at the start of the year when your thinking " hey i've got all year to finish these" but the reality is i havn't finished a kit in 3 months, not since the Hellcat, so i think i should stick with the Tam/Has single engine fighter shake 'n' bake kits.....

Jules: Thats where dear old dad's idea of 9:00pm whippings comes into play... put it in effect and I guarantee in 1 week they will all be in bed by 8:30pm.... I used to go to bed early hoping he didnt have the heart to wake me for the beating.. (worked like a charm)

Daniel - no didnt have a prob with the canopy at all... I left the smallest canopy off (rear gunners) on the dash-5 and dash-3, used the closed one on the dash-2 and all seemed to work fine! maybe post a pic of them sitting unglued???? we might figure something out....

Sounds like your sittin in clover Pingy except for the no money thing.....
work isn't really a problem for me, my main problem is the Missus, while i'm at work she lets the young'uns or should i say makes them have a sleep during the day for a couple of hours, now that works with babies but the 3 and 4 year olds end up staying awake until 10:30 PM and of course by that time i can't be stuffed modelling much....
The moral of the story::::::::::::::::Stay single

Qucik question for you fellas that have built the AM SBD Did you have any trouble fitting the canopy in the open position It doesn't matter where I position mine, the smaller ones always make the bigger ones sit high. I'm leaving the smallest one off, bu I just can't get the next smallest one to sit right. Any ideas

so ... I just thought I would add

bump

Daniel - yup... it's damned if you do, damned if you do't right? but at least with work you can occasionally take vacation to get some marathon modeling in...

Darren - I agree on the ultrcast seats. They do a lot to make the cockpit look realistic without being "busy" because of the scale.....

:::Progress Update:::
OK my Wildcat is progressing, just very slowly that's all. I dry brushed the IP with chrome silver on the weekend and it came up very nicely. The only problem is that now the entire IP has a metallic sheen to it so I'll have to add a drop of masking fluid into each dial and respray it black. Oh well.
As a by the by, the Ultracast seat has come up a treat.

Cheers
Darren

Jules No kids and no job. Great for getting lots of modelling done. Problem is, I don't have enough money to buy kits. Hopefully that'll change soon, I might have a few jobs lined up. So then I'll have money to buy kits, but no time for modelling......... I need to find a balance there somehow.

Jeeves I noticed that too. I left them off my build. It's probably not very accurate, but it's more accurate than calling it an SBD-5.......

Just a word of warning...the decals that come with the SBD-3 have a boo-boo in them. The little SBD decals that go on the tailfin are labeled as SBD-5 in the kit...at least they are on mine...luckily I am actually using three different sheets so all is OK for me

Daniel how many kits do you reckon you'd build in a year seems to me that your churning them out at an incredible rate, hmmm you musn't have kids.........

Daniel - sounds great!!! would like to see more of your work! I am enjoying seeing your builds!!!

Tom I don't think you'll be doing the thing on your own mate. I might enter another build into this GB. Maybe a Tamiya wildcat or something Jap maybe (how about a Val to complete my midway dive-bomber collection). Then I'd add a vindicator and I'd have a complete set......

Funny that you should mention that Tom thats what she chants just before she breaks a billiard ball with her thighs, then she lets out that big bear cry and bang, one billiard ball broken into shards...............

Jules - like Kremps always said... slow and steady cooks the borscht...

never quite understood the background meaning with that though... she'd always throw her head back and cackle when she said it.

Bob your Dauntless is looking greatIf you think youv'e weathered it a little heavy you can do what i did with my Spit MK VIII, after i added the wash on that one i decided that it was to heavy so i mixed up another batch of paint thinned about 50/50 and lightly misted the paint on, worked like a charm

Jeeves & Pingy looking forward to seeing some pics guys

Tom you certainly won't be building solo, I'm a very long way from being finished myself.............

looking forward to seeing more pics from all of ya! Really impressive results so far! Of course yall will all be finished and sitting around chatting while I have to build mine solo... thats ok... long as I have someone to talk to while I am doing it....

Sorry I have been away.... the Vindicator is due out next month I believe....

I am at the decal stage on my SBD.... pics to follow soon....

Thanks Darren;

I've got the thing just about done. Nearly everything is painted and assembled, now it's just like putting sub-assemblies together. Shouldn't be long til it's done now. Pics soon I hope.

Tom-thanks for the info. Will definatly get the needle lube. Will also investigate the paint.

Darren-thanks. Now I just have to come up with a game plan on toning it down a bit. Still think that after decaling is complete & the dull coat applied, lighter pastels on the panel lines might work. Actually, the upper doesn't look as overstated in person as it does in the photos. The underside does need some more work though.

Daniel, I know this is going back a page now but WOW, your SBD looks great

Bob more of the same from you, congrats on the progress so far. Like you said all you need to do now is to tone things down a tad.

Cheers
Darren

Bob - if you are going with acrylics (which is what I mostly use) I strongly recommend needle lube. It helps paint from adhering to the needle and disrupting flow. I use it for enamels and acrylics but it does the most help with acrylics...

at about $5 a bottle you can't leave home without it! Badger sells it as Regdab Needle Juice, Iwata as Medea Lube.

BTW: try any of the SBD's ... I liked the build of the dash-5 the best, dunno why. Maybe some of the things we see in the dash-2 and dash-3 had been remdied by time the 5 came out...

Also, if you are ordering paint, take a look at Vallejo or "Colors of Eagles" paints available from www.greatmodels.com (they are on sale right now). As far as acrylics they go on the smoothest for me and look the best.. I am slowly replacing my entire arsenal of paints with them. If you do try them, order a bottle of vallejo thinner,or if you cant get it I will see if I can get you a bottle.

The "Color of Eagles" blend, distrinuted from Miami is bottled by Vallejo... and includes most every WWII shade you'll need! Best think is there is little waste with them...

Tom-Still waiting for the Paasche H to arrive. Bottom line is that I'm wanting to finish the SBD and move on. And the more I look at the weathering, I may be happy with it. Will decide after the dull coat-maybe some 'reverse' pastels at that point.

Did purchase the compressor & filter today. Now just need to spend some time to research painting with acrylics. And practice on paper and the Zero. Hope to have everything in place to use it for my Mustang F6A for North Africa. Very good article in the latest FSM on the AM P-51A as far as detailing. Hope to try some of the same techiniques. Unless I go with the RAF version....too many choices....After the AB gets here, I'll have to add another SBD to my wish list.

Bob - if you hadn't put the decals on you could have done a pre shading type thing... They call it a filter coat... take a coat roughly the same color but lighter than the major color of the fuselage... thin the you know what out of it and mist it over the plane.. with contrasting camos it helps draw them together but in your case it would have helped settle down some of the weathering...

Unfortunatly, I made the mistake of adding a clear coat before I decided that I may have weathered a bit much. However, taking advantage of the clear coat, I added some decals. After a dull coat, I'll decide whether it needs to be lightened out a little and keep the t-shirt tip in mind.