ARMOR - Tamiya 1/16 Tiger 1 Group Build

sgslorta
I have used enemail matt varnish over my Tamiya and Games-Workshop acrylics. That worked out fine. Just make sure its all dry.

Gentlemen,

Opinions required.

I intend to paint my Tiger starting with an undercoat of dark metaic polycarbonate paint = "Pactra". I have used this for years as an undercoat on 12" vinyl figures. Over the top I will continue with Tamiya and weathering with oils. The reason I use the polycarbonate is that is more resistant to the solvent when rubbing off further layers to reveal the metal shine underneath = great effect for high wear areas where paint has bee "rubbed off". Also, you can scrape off the upper coats top reveal the metal paint underneath = chips. MY QUESTION = does anybody know of any reason why I cant use polycarbonate paints on a styrene model such as the TIGER??

SECOND QUESTION = what is the rule regarding mixing use of enamel and acrylics. I have been getting alot of mixed responses here in Sydney from various art stores and model shops. My impetus for asking is the sheer cost of this kit. I want to get it correct. I understood that: Acrylics (Tamiya, Gunze, Games Workshop, Pactra) can go over well dried enamels but NOT the other way around. HOWEVER, what about using oils and low odour thinner as a wash?? I realise that water based acrylics are hopeless as a wash due to the polar nature of water molecules beading while non polar solvent based paints do flow so much better.


Any opinion would be welcomed.

Thankyou.

Abermeister Erush,

Seriously cool, fantastic job! Are you going to mess anything up? Please...?

Here's the latest on my progress, got a good bit done. Finished all the detail for the hull and moving on to the turret...

All the detail parts finished for the hull now


The air cleaner duct details...


Hmmmmm, starting to look like a tank


And on to the commander's copula








That's it for now...

Cheers for that advice guys. I'm in model making mode at the moment as it is teeming rain here for the last 4 days .

b.pijfers
your pics are up, i'm still working on the page so it may look a little plain at the moment ;) YOu can find the section on the Tiger companies page

Wlad
thanks for that info, i did get your email and yes we are lucky devils indeed ;) I'll be sure to get this book when it comes out =)

sgslorta
I'm not sure if many people still practice this but in my case I tend to wash mine after I've build the model. Washing it before is the simplest but in the process of building the kit you will get dirt and dust on the plastic again which will need washing or dusting prior to painting so i tend to plan mine so that i can wash it easily after the build. Meaning I build the main components minus the details, wash the model and then glue the details on carefully, tricky but it works for me ;)

sgslorta,

think it's better to wash the assembled parts before painting because if you clean the parts on casting sprues you remove dirt and oily dust from production but while you build the parts you touch it with you fingers and you'll get grease again on it. Also the use of dish washing liquid is dangerous because it could be a little oily to protect the (hard working) hands. I've used soap to clean my wheels but the metal wheels got some kind of a white coating after drying. So I also use washing petrol.

Question: Do any of you fine gentlemen wash and air dry a kit in the kitchen sink before removing anything from the casting sprue? As a painter of lead miniatures I have always washed off the release agent in the kitchen sink using dish washing liquid detergent before undercoating. However I wonder whether this step is really necessary for plastic kits?

Anybody have an opinion?

Hi all,

Tigers in Combat 1 is soon to be available in softback, November release. 320 pp. $30.00 Nothing missing!

http://www.aberdeenbookstore.com/german_weapons.htm

Scroll down to Number 159.

Wlad

PS. Great bookshop!

Hi Skrull,
Thanks for the complements on my Tiger. The T34 is not an RC model. Its the Trumpeter static kit. Its fun to build though. I will make pictures of my progress this time and mail them to you. I will send more pictures of the Tiger to you this weekend.

wow, looks like i missed a lot whilst i've been away - a lot of activity here, nice to here =)

b.pijfers
I'll post your pics on my site later on tonight, if you have any more just email them to me or post them here and i'll sort them out. Very nice paintjob btw and to have finished it so quickly as well, very good job indeed. I haven't touched my kitty for a while now, it basically just need painting now and a few more conversions and i should be done but it's just finiding the time to actually do it that's the trouble. And if you wanna do the T34, I'd like to host your progress on my site too - if that was an RC I'd buy one myself but who knows - it is a nice model ;)

QUOTE: Originally posted by b.pijfers I'm also thinking of building the King Tiger. Any thoughts on that?

[:0] Actually I've thought about it too Bert. I'd go static again and it's really tempting since Backyard armor has some trackhangers and mesh screens for the engine deck and a few other goodies.....I better quit thinking about that now.....

Had the same problem some days ago, my solution:
I drilled in two little holes close together and used the driller to make a long hole with it to get enough grip to a screwdriver. The little screws from Tamiya aren't the best so I'll order better ones, and I recut the holes (I dont know the right word) in the idler arm so the screw goes better.

AAAAHHH!!! A grub screw got stuck in one of my tension pulley! Now I'm unable to secure the left idler arm. I want to Krazy glue this sucker, but will the glue work well with diecast metal? Help!

Thanks Eric,
It was a lot of fun building it. I think my wife is glad I’m done with my Tiger
I don't think she knows I’m starting a T34 in the same scale.
And that will take some time too.

I'm also thinking of building the King Tiger. Any thoughts on that?

Bert, you did a great job on your Tiger!! And fast too, wow! Excellent work on the weathering and all the detail. It looks real good.

Again, a bit off-topic...

In re-examining my Imex V2, I see it may not be as bad as I thought, though the 'visible' component may be lost in the application I want. I did an inventory of the metal parts, and it is only missing ~two~, one fuel feed line (has 5 of 6) and one other line (has 3 others identical) so replication should be a breeze.

But while I was dozing I had a brainstorm, and MAY have a way to supply V2 'hulls' at even less than the kit cost of about $60 US. If I could do this, and perhaps even supply easy-assembly fins, who would want a V2 for display with their WW2 gear?

Anyone have well-scaled plans of the V1 I could get copies of? Being able to sell a 'paired 'Vengeance Weapon' set might be an interesting seller.

Has anyone purchased anything from Willy lately? I placed an order 1 YEAR ago and finially after 6+ months of asking for it, I decided to just wait him out....yet still NOTHING!

Also for THE ONE .... have you found the article on the web yet about altering your radio? You install two cheap ($1 or so) Radio Shack push button switches on your radio and wire them to the TRIM TAB and then you can fire the cannon and machine gun with the switches instead of the (not so easy or fun) way discribed in the tank manual....by moving the trim tab up or down and then jerking the stick real fast.

Its pretty easy to do. You need 2 MOMENTARY switchs ( 1 black, 1 red). A couple of feet of wire. A soldering iron and some solder. You wont be making any PERMANATE changes other than the two 1/4" holes you have to drill in the plastic case for the switches!

Anyway...GOOD LUCK!

http://www.fragarmor.org/Advanced%20Hints%203.htm

Mike

The One:

Well, if you're not going to use all those electronics... there is the possibility of selling 'em. Many would pay for the multi-function gear (which you cannot use without the transmitter & receiver set) as well as the gearboxes. I could offer you the static axle parts if its only going to be a display, as I had a static that I'm trying to turn into a RC one.

I have another option, but I'd rather not air it here, and you don't have mail or message listings, so I'll have to hope you contact me to discuss them.

While I was looking up radios on the internet, I read somewhere that some radios are a big no-no if you're not gonna use it to fly planes, because it could interfere with radio plane users (like crash their planes to the ground). Oh, I live in cold, dreary Oregon.

I'm a bit apprehensive about spending $150-$200 on a radio transmitter that I would only end up using once or twice. Like I said, I just wanted to use a radio during the build so I could check if I made the proper connections, adjust the volume, see if the wires are not interfering with the movable parts of the tank, etc. I could always buy a better (and expensive) radio transmitter if I change my mind about running my Tiger in the future.

I got a Trumpeter T-34 1943 (Instead of the complete Aber PE set...is that a sacrilage?)
I'm planning on doing a Prokhorovka diorama with the two tanks.

Thanks WWMcB, I cut and pasted your suggestions, at least I have an inkling of what to look for in a radio transmitter.
Back to the hunt....

The One:

Firstly, welcome to the wonderful world of RC tanks. With that said, the first essential is : Where Are You?

If you are in North America, that radio is not for surface use. Its on the aircraft only bands. The better radios use FM, and most of the FM surface radios are on 75 MHz (channels 61 to 90)

You could buy a Transmitter only, and then buy one of the cheaper GWS Naro or Pico units on a matching frequency. That way you don't have to sell the un-needed servos. Most local hobby stores will offer to 'discount' the price if you don't want the servos.

That said, the radio listed in that eBay link is ~useless~ to you, if you want to stay within the rules. If you wish to play with the RCACN battlers in Danville VA., you have to have a proper radio for starters (many were forced to sell air-units to be fight-legal)

The Tamiya gear was designed to mate with the Futaba radios best (Tamiya & Futaba have shared technology) The 4VF & 4YF are probably two of the more common units. If you wanted to go overboard, the 6YG is only $20 more (Tower Hobbies) and leaves you loads of room for expansion if you use the unit on another model (like a boat or truck)

I won't get into all the upgrades yet, but I can suggest any number of RC boards, depending on where-abouts you live. Feel free to contact me by e-mail , PM or chat-engine (the buttons at the bottom of my post)

(I'm one of the RC-Guys, but not an 'expert' by any means)

That one will be great its a Futaba and it has 4 channels
The Tigers with receivers are scale 1/35.
And dont have the same functions. Just follow the manual its easy, you'l see

Like this radio...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19164&item=5922033244&rd=1

Is this good, or is it missing some valuable components?

Thanks, I guess I'll wait until I read the manual first before I purchase any RC equipment. It's just that I've seen a lot good deals on radios on Ebay.

So the Tiger comes with its own receiver?

Hi The one welcome to the build.
ON your RC question. I used a Fatuba skysport 4 transmitter. It has price of about 170 euro's. Besides that you only need 2 battery packs. But all the information is in the manual you get with the tank. No servos are needed.

Good luck on your build.

Hi, while I'm waiting for my Tiger to arrive, I've searched through the internet, hoping to find some tips and tricks on how to build this monster, I found this Tiger build. This topic has been very informative, not to mention inspirational, looking at some of your works.

At first, I planned on getting the static version, but since I couldn't find one, I was *forced* to buy the full option kit. I have no experience or knowledge about RCs, other than you put batteries in them and play. I wanted to discard the Rc parts of the Tiger, but thought that would be a huge waste. So, I'm building it straight off the box.

Trouble is, seeing I'm an RC virgin, I have no idea what radio, and other stuff to buy. What in the world is a servo? Crystals?

I don't want the best radio out there. I'm looking for a cheap one, seeing I only wanted the radio to test the rc components, check if I made the connections right, once I'm building this Tiger.

Patrick can you post my Tiger on your website?
If you think its good enough that is. pls pls

If you like I can make more pictures (now i know how it workes hahahahaha)
And post them. I'm thinking of making a nice target for my Kitty.
There is a 1/16 T34 group build. That might be fun.
what do you think?

Hi Tiger building chums,
I have been off the air for a while now. I had to finish my Tiger in a mad dash.
And I did. I can now share the pictures with you. I took me a while to find out how to upload the pictures but it worked.
I thought a long time about the paint scheme but in the end I used the
one erock used on his Tiger (sorry erock but it looked great).
I used all the aber, the aber ammo set and one verlinden and dragon figure.
The aber worked great even on an RC full option kit.
I hope you like my work

Hi All..

Micro-Mark has added a complete PHOTO ETCH KIT!
Seems to come with everything you might need.

This is a true photo-resist metal etching system that employs advanced technologies and materials previously available only to industrial users. It uses your computer, an ink jet printer, and materials included in the system to achieve incredibly fine results.

The Pro-Etch System includes all the materials you need to set up your own photo-etching operation:
Specially developed, high resolution, ink jet film
Photo-resist material
Brass and stainless steel sheet metal
Photo-Resist Laminating machine and carrier sheets
Exposure frame and clamps
Sodium Hydroxide* developing/stripping solution
Plastic developing/stripping trays
Etching tank with circulating pump
Ferric Chloride* etchant solution
Metal-prep pad, plastic tweezer, measuring cup, apron, goggles and gloves
How-To manual with easy-to-understand instructions, illustrations and photos to guide you through each step of the process.

*Note: System contains chemicals that are highly caustic. Careful handling of these chemicals and good ventilation are prerequisites for the use of this system. Not for use with aluminum.

Cost...$120.00 US

Mike