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Model Shipways "Phantom" Pilot Boat Group Build 2007

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 30, 2007 3:57 PM

 

Crap!  Well, that didn't work! Angry [:(!]

I was almost done with the rudder and placing the final touches on the shaft that connects the rudder to the ship, and it promptly broke off!  Now I am in the process on glueing some more pieces together to make a stronger, better rudder and shaft (if that's it's nomenclature).

 hardingb wrote:

Most importantly, check that it will actually fit on your hull, since it's possible that your hull is not exactly the same as the plans, you could actually do this with the paper shape first, before cutting the wood.

Actually, I made a copy of the stern section of the ship, which seemed to work.  But, once I cut it out, I found the paper rudder was bigger than the actual space of my ship.  So, my actual ship isn't as large as the drawing.  I checked it out, and the distance from the stern post to the stern of the hull, it is 28mm and the drawing at the same points is 35mm (see, jtilley, I'm measuring! Smile [:)] ). 

So, I have decided (feel free to offer any suggestions) to redo the rudder with a stronger shaft (the same way as the curved portion of the keel), and cut it to the size of the drawing, then carve it down to the size of my model.

Lew

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Monday, May 7, 2007 9:41 AM

Progress update:

Finished copper-plating the hull and rudder. Almost done carving out the deck/bulwarks. Dremel made quick work of what would otherwise be a real hand-breaking chore. Glad I bought it, can't imagine doing a solid-hull kit without the dremel. Correction, I CAN imagine it, since I did the exterior of the hull by hand...doing the deck by hand is not a pleasant thought. Bulwarks came out pretty well, a couple spots where they are a little thin and/or nicks on the top of the bulwarks. Will have to see if I can repair them with wood filler. Currently working on deck camber.

 Purchased Brasso and spray-poly for cleaning and finishing the copper hull. Just trying to decide WHEN to do it. Since I don't think I'll be able to ONLY poly the copper, and not the rest of the hull exterior (above the waterline) and still have it look good, I'll wait until I finish and repair/repaint the bulwarks. Probably ought to do the scuppers and hawse pipe first too. After that, I'm considering the following options:

a) polish and finish immediately, then attach the rudder.

b) polish, attach rudder, then finish.

c) polish and finish, attach rudder, apply second coat of finish.

 Right now, I'm leaning towards finishing, then attach the rudder and see if the unfinished pintles and gudgeons clash with the finished hull, then make a decision on whether to apply a second coat.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Great State of Wyoming
Posted by wyoroy on Monday, May 7, 2007 12:43 PM

Any chance of getting some pictures of your work up to this point?

Like I said earlier, I have to wait until my in-laws leave before I can get back to building.

Roy

Roy (Capt. Wyoroy FAAGB/USNFAWGB)

John 3:16

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 7, 2007 4:38 PM
 hardingb wrote:

Purchased Brasso and spray-poly for cleaning and finishing the copper hull. Just trying to decide WHEN to do it. Since I don't think I'll be able to ONLY poly the copper, and not the rest of the hull exterior (above the waterline) and still have it look good, I'll wait until I finish and repair/repaint the bulwarks.

If you are going to shine the copper before sealing it, I would highly recommend using Nevr-Dull.  It is cotton wadding that is impregnated with a shiner.  It is much easier to use and control than a liquid polish like Brasso, because you can pull out just the right about of wadding to use.  It will make less of a mess, but if you aren't careful, there will be black smudges on your wood (which may or may not be an issue if you are going to paint it black abover the waterline anyway).  I have many years of experience shining brass with it (read: form US Navy!), and it has worked wonders.  Also, if you have black scuff marks on your tile or linoleum, it removes them very easily, and then all you have to do is rewax your floor (again, read: US Navy!).

Hope this is useful, because this is about the only thing I learned in the Navy.  (Well, maybe how to paint!)

Thanks for the update, I am finally finished making my rudder, so I am now going to finishing coppering and, now that you mention it, I will probably shine and seal it, too.

Lew.

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:59 AM

Will post photos soon, perhaps this weekend. Model time has been short this week, and I'd rather spend the little time I have on building, rather than taking photos. Should have some time this weekend.

Thanks for the recommendation Lew, but since I already bought the brasso, I think I'll give it a try. We'll see. Do you like how your rudder turned out this time?

 I have finished carving out the deck, and am now doing some repairs with wood filler. Order of business after that will be to cut the deck planking to shape. Drill the scuppers, hawse pipe holes and other hull holes. Fit hawse pipe lids. Touch up the hull paint. Figure out how to get the ships name on the transom. Polish the copper hull. Poly the hull. Paint the bulwarks. Install the deck planking. Install the waterways. Paint and install the bulwark stanchions. Cut the cap rail and install.

That ought to be enough work for a few weeks...

I've posted on DDM for advice about the cap rail. Chuck recommends cutting from a single 1/32 sheet (convenient that I happen to have such a sheet on hand from my previous model). But I'm sure that the real ship would have a cap rail made in sections. My question was how they would be joined (scarf joints?) and are there any guidelines on where the joints would be. I'll let you know if I hear anything from the DDM crew.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 11, 2007 5:44 PM
 hardingb wrote:

Do you like how your rudder turned out this time?

Yes, thanks.  Third time is a charm, I guess.  It finally came out, and now I am coppering it and the hull.  Hopefully get it finished this weekend.

Did you find a good technique to cutting the copper strips?  I find that cutting them length-wise is pretty cumbersome, and I am having a hard time keeping the two sides straight and even.

Looking forward to seeing some pictures, and when I get a chance, I will try to post some.

Lew.

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Monday, May 14, 2007 8:12 AM

I had problems with the same thing...getting the lengthwise cuts straight. If I had it to do over again, I'd build some type of jig. What I did was just eyeball it and try to get them as even as possible, cutting in small sections, only the lenghth of one blade at a time. I found that using a straight edge was not working, since the strip would move under the straight edge.

If I built a jig, I would glue a straight wood strip to a wood base. Then glue a wood strip of the correct width (1/8") along the straight edge and with a slight gap between the base and the 1/8" strip. That way you could slide the copper tape under the 1/8" strip and press it flush against the straight edge so it wouldn't move while cutting. There ought to be half the tape under the 1/8" strip and half exposed, and you should just be able to cut along the 1/8" strip. You could also then glue another piece of scrap wood perpendicular to and at the end of the 1/8" strip, leaving a gap the length of each plate, so that once you cut the tape in half lenghwise, you'd have a cutting guide for cutting the plates to a consistent length. Chuck's practicum said the plates should be 1/8" by 1/4", but I didn't think that matched with what was on the plans...the plans were closer to 1/8" by 3/8".

 

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Monday, May 14, 2007 6:07 PM

If I remember mine correctly, I just laid out a strip of the copper tape about six inches long on a board, copper-side up, and taped down both ends with regular Scotch tape.  Then I laid a steel rule along the centerline of the copper tape and used it as the guide for the Xacto knife.  If you don't try to cut more than a six-inch length of the stuff at a time, you'll probably find that you can eyeball the centerline of it well enough.

Remember that the cut doesn't really need to run precisely down the center of the tape.  Each row of plates is going to overlap the one below it by a couple of scale inches (say, 1/64" or even a little more).  If one edge of a plate is a little uneven, let that be the edge that gets overlapped by the plates above it.

The Phantom is a near-ideal subject for a first effort at "copper sheathing."  If I remember correctly, I did mine in one long evening - with another to add the shallow dents in the plates to represent the nail heads.  (That's why a I have small, cheap stereo system in the workshop.  That sort of job is great accompaniment to an audiobook.)

I think that copper tape that comes with the kit is the stuff that's used in making stained glass windows.  Several companies that sell supplies to stained glass enthusiasts have sent me catalogs.  All of them sell pressure-sensitive copper tape like that.  Unfortunately the 1/4" width seems to be the narrowest that's available.  But they do sell it in fairly large sheets - with the adhesive on one side.  That might be worth investigating.

For the record, it's worth noting that copper, strictly speaking, may well be technically wrong for a ship of the Phantom's period.  By that time (the 1860s), copper was being replaced by the much more durable "Muntz metal," which was an alloy of copper and zinc.  It apparently was about the same color as brass; by the mid-nineteenth century Lloyd's Register was listing ships as being "yellow metalled," "coppered," or "brass bottomed."  (My source here is Mr. Campbell's fine book, China Tea Clippers, which has an excellent chapter on hull sheathing.)  My big ongoing project is a 1/96-scale model of the clipper Young America, which is known to have been "yellow metalled."  I've located some .001 brass sheet, which probably would look about right for the purpose.  But I have to confess I have reservations about it.  A copper-bottomed model looks so, so nice - and I can't recall having bumped into one that was actually plated with brass.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 14, 2007 11:19 PM
 hardingb wrote:

I found that using a straight edge was not working, since the strip would move under the straight edge.

That is exactly what I found.  I couldn't hold the straight edge down tight enough against the copper.  It would move and have a ragged edge.  I had the thought of a jib as well.  I thought of using something to hold down the copper and then clamp the straight edge to it.  But, it seems that doing something like that in an environment this small would be very difficult.

So, out of frustration, I found a pair of scissors with long, narrow, sharp blades, and low and behold, it worked.  I eyeballed it and I was pretty close.  I put the factory edge down toward the keel, because that is the edge that is exposed, and now it has a nice clean look.  I am not doing the 1/4'' or 3/8" because it is too small, and it is not looking good.  So, I am taking Chuck's advice, and using longer strips and then scoring them to make them look like plates.

Try some scissors, it worked really well.

Lew.

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:40 AM
Awesome! Glad the scissors worked for you. I had considered it, but thought it might leave a funny edge along the cut. Should have given it a try anyway, probably would have saved me a bunch of time. Oh well...coppering was a good activity to do during a Cub's game, and I made it through about a week's worth of games that way. Smile [:)]
Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Madison, Mississippi
Posted by Donnie on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 3:07 PM

I wish that I could see some photos in progress (of the coppering) work that is being done.

Donnie 

In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 3:22 PM

I'm going to finish up the deck carving today or tomorrow and will post photos then.

 Awesome job on the Sultana, by the way...I saw your photos here and on the other forums...didn't realized until then that you were Dropanchor.

She's a beaut.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Madison, Mississippi
Posted by Donnie on Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:35 PM

Thank you for the compliments as always. Yep, that is me on the other forum as Drop Anchor !

 

Donnie 

In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 4:31 PM

Gents,

A heads up in case you haven't gotten to drilling the scuppers yet. The view on the plans that shows the detail inside the bulwarks shows only four scuppers in the forward set (forward of the deck step). In other words, it only shows the scupper slot extending forward from the step across four stanchions. The other plans show five.

 I'm traveling most of this week and only home for this evening. So not much progress and no pictures yet. Probably this weekend.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Saturday, June 9, 2007 11:52 AM

Slow progress lately, but here are some photos (finally). Looks like there hasn't been any traffic on this string since my last update.

 First are some photos of the hull coppering. I'm still pondering what to do about finishing the hull. I really like the darker color the copper has taken on, but because of how much I've had to handle it, the coloring isn't even and has some finger prints. If I clean/polish it, it will go back to the original, bright copper color. So I'm trying to decide whether to polish it and just poly it right away and live with the bright shiny hull, or polish it and let it sit in the working cradle for a while (as I work on the deck structures) and hope it oxidizes evenly before I poly it.

 Also some shots of the bulwarks and deck planking, including the cockpit.

 The next task is to install the waterway. I'll be following Chuck's advice, and using file folder material, but I'm not confident about tracing around the outer bulwarks and being able to trim it to the inner bulwark dimensions. So I'm starting with plain paper and have traced around the outer bulwarks. I'll trim down the paper until it fits, and then trace onto the file folder, so I only have to cut it once. I'll post pictures to show you how it turned out. Here's a photo of the hull with the paper template.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Great State of Wyoming
Posted by wyoroy on Saturday, June 9, 2007 12:47 PM
hardingb,

It has been slow on this GB.  I have done nothing on my boat.  It looks like it will be a few months till I can get to doing anything.  Last month I accepted a teaching position in Jacksonville, Florida.  I have to be there before 31 July.  I will not have a workshop until the house in Florida is completed which may be late this year if not early next year.

On you progress, it looks great!  I like that you went ahead and dug out the area in the deck.  Did you use a dermal tool to do that? 

Roy

Roy (Capt. Wyoroy FAAGB/USNFAWGB)

John 3:16

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Sunday, June 10, 2007 1:17 PM

I built my Phantom about three years ago (I think); as I've mentioned before, it's the resin-hull version that Model Shipways was selling for a while.  The copper sheathing material that came with mine was, as far as I know, identical with the stuff you guys are using.  I didn't put any sort of finish on it; I wanted to see how it would behave (and I figured if I decided I didn't like it, it would be easy to change it later).  It's now been on the model about three years - and I have no way of knowing how long it was sitting in the box before I bought it.  I think it's darkened a little bit, but there's no visible green (or black, or whatever) patina on it; with the possible exception of the color (which if it has in fact darkened, has darkened so little that I'm not even sure it's happened at all), it looks just like it did when I put it on the model.

I'm not sure just what that stuff is.  It certainly acts like genuine copper; I think Model Expo gets it from some firm that caters to the stained glass window trade, and those people (I guess) have to be able to solder it.  Its behavior suggests that it may have been treated with some sort of chemical to slow down, or even eliminate, the normal weathering process that ordinarily happens to copper.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by Keel Up on Friday, June 22, 2007 11:23 PM

Hi all.

I just started my Phantom last week (well I got the kit 10 days ago, the plans showed up two days ago).  While waiting on the plans, I made the little cradle suggested in the instructions.  To demonstrate my woodworking skills, it took me about 4 hrs to make it.

I started on the hull last night.  I came to one conclusion.  Wood carving sucks.  Or I should say that I suck at doing it.  Ha! I haven't the slightest clue as to what I'm doing and mine will never look right.  My keel and stern where I 'carved' (hacked would describe it better) them to the 1/8 inch width are so crooked and cockeyed that I'll never get one piece of keel to cover it.  I figure if I get too discouraged, I can whittle it down to toothpick size and call it a submarine.

I hate to be defeated but this hobby may just beat me.  I don't care, though, I'm having a ball doing it.  Would not a plank on bulkhead construction be easier - less carving?

I'll try to catch up with everyone.  I have no desire to carve the hull to it's correct profile so that'll speed things up a bit.

Signed,

All But Defeated

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, June 23, 2007 2:22 PM

Hi Keel Up,

Don't give up.  Just sand the thing until it looks nice enough.  I messed mine up good when I trimmed the keel post instead of the stern.  Shows you that I knew nothing about ships when I started my Phantom.  I kept going anyway and it turned out pretty nice.  Just do your best and, most importantly, have fun.  I'm working on a POB kit now and, yes, there is less carving to be done but the hull is a whole new headache.  You have to make sure that everything fits together precisely and then sand it all to death.  Anyway, I just started planking the hull.  So far, so good.

I followed Chuck's practicum pretty closely (again, since I knew nothing) and cut each individual copper "plate" from the tape provided (1/8 x 1/4 each).  Took me a week to copper the hull, which then got all messed up from handling it before applying a finish.  I didn't know I was supposed to do that!  So I had to make repairs, polish, and finish.  Advise to all: finish the copper sheathing before moving on.  :) 

Interesting note:  I was afraid to rig the Phantom because I thought it looked so complicated and it turned out to be the most enjoyable part of all.  Can't wait to rig the AVS.  :)

Regards,

Marisol 

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by Keel Up on Saturday, June 23, 2007 4:37 PM

Well, you guys are better than me, I put 6 hrs in it and then chucked it today.  It's nothing more than splinters and chips right now.

Thanks for the help and encouragement.  Enjoy.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Great State of Wyoming
Posted by wyoroy on Saturday, June 23, 2007 7:24 PM

Keel up,

If you got the kit from Model Expo call them and see if you can get another hull.

Roy

Roy (Capt. Wyoroy FAAGB/USNFAWGB)

John 3:16

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by Keel Up on Sunday, June 24, 2007 7:03 AM

After a cooling off period I think my big mistake was thinking that the 'C' on the hull templates meant 'Center' - After closer examination there is no way that that can be.  I was grinding off about 1/8 inch all over the thing to get the C to my center line (which in no was could have been in true center).

I had thought also that thr 'R' on the templates meant 'Rail' for the height overall.  This I just folded out of the way and ignored.  I would have been better off to have ignored the 'C' also.

Does anyone know what the 'C' and 'R' do mean?

I wonder what's cheaper... a new hull (or kit) or a couple quarts of wood filler?  If I do get another hull I promise that nothing more than sand paper will ever tough the underside of it.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The Great State of Wyoming
Posted by wyoroy on Sunday, June 24, 2007 10:28 AM

that was my thinking, C means center and R means rail.  I hope I'm not wrongConfused [%-)]

Roy

Roy (Capt. Wyoroy FAAGB/USNFAWGB)

John 3:16

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Madison, Mississippi
Posted by Donnie on Sunday, June 24, 2007 8:10 PM

Hi Keel Up -

Please don't give up - get another hull and parts from Model Shipways. They have a form on their website that you can download and mail to them what you need. I think it is a clunky way of doing business, but I guess they have their reasons. I will put the link here so that you can download that form and if you can FAX it in to them. Read Chucks Practicum on how he built his Phantom. This go 'round - you will be glad you did. All of us makes mistakes - if you are not making mistakes, then you are not trying, learning, or somewhere out there. Even those that have been building for quite some time, still get stumped. Hey - those instructions in Model Shipways manual are really not the best in the world. I hate to break the news to those guys, but something has got to happen to their manuals - don't let any of this get you down!!!

Download the part request form here:

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/catalogs_wholesale/PartsRequest.pdf 

 

Download Chucks Practicum from here: 

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/instructions/PhantomNew_Web.pdf 

 

Good luck

Donnie 

In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 25, 2007 4:39 AM

You can also email your parts request to Model Expo.  They usually don't respond but ship your parts out very quickly.  My Phantom kit was short some blocks, deadeyes, and cleats and I had them in less than a week after emailing them.  See their customer service webpage.

Regards, 

Marisol 

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Monday, June 25, 2007 8:39 AM

Keel Up,

Glad to see you're still around. I saw your postings on a different forum last night, after you had already posted about having trashed the hull and given up. I figured you were already gone.

Don't give up. I think I've read that Model Shipways will even replace parts that you have broken. Not sure if that extends to solid hulls, but it's worth a try.

Phantom is my second model, and so far, shaping the hull is by far the hardest part, too bad it's the first thing you have to do. The key is not to rush, and check with your templates often. Also, read the part about using the templates in Chuck's practicum. Then read it again, and check it over a couple times after you've started working. Sometimes things start to make sense after you've started putting pencil and sandpaper to wood.

Also keep in mind that the practicum was written a few years ago. I think Model Shipways may have changed their process slightly since then. Chuck mentions that the rough hull is about 1/8" too long... mine was at least 1/2" oversized. That's a HUGE difference, and can make it feel like you must be doing SOMETHING wrong. I had to remove a LOT of wood from my hull to get it to the proper shape. Expect to take a long time on this part, you won't finish shaping the hull overnight, it may take a week.

 I'm past the hull shaping stage, but I kept my templates, I'll check on those C and R markings at home tonight and get back to you. I wouldn't be surprised if C is for the center line, though. The rough hull is pretty oversized. I would recommend using a Dremel for shaping the hull, it will make quick work of all that extra wood. But it can be a big investment for a first time modeler, I'd check to see if you know anyone who has one and will lend it to you. Be careful though, it's easy to remove too much wood with a dremel.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Monday, June 25, 2007 8:51 AM

Since I'm here and posting, I might as well post an update on my progess.

I have the waterways in, bulwark stanchions in, rudder installed, and am just about done with the cap rail.

I followed Chuck's recommendation of cutting the caprail from a single sheet of 1/32" wood. I happened to have just what I needed left over from my previous build. I modified his process slightly, because I was concerned about how thin my bulwarks were in places, and whether I could get a sturdy joint between the cap rail and the bulwarks. Just didn't seem like enough surface for the glue to adhere to. So after I cut out the cap rail, I carved a very shallow slot all the way around the underside of the cap rail. I applied glue inside the slot and attached the cap rail to the hull with the bulwarks fitting into the slot. I got a good, solid attachment that way, and am very pleased with how it has turned out. I'm just finishing up trimming the cap rail down to the proper 1/8" width, and will apply a final coat of paint.

 Also, I purchased decals for the lettering on the stern. They turned out great, I think.

I decided to go ahead and clean/polish the hull coppering to get an even look. The patina on the copper was nice, but very uneven. I polished it up with brasso and applied a couple coats of spray-on Minwax satin polyester. The finish was a little too shiny, so on the black upper hull, I buffed it with 0000 steel wool. The coppering is now shiny pink, not ideal in my opinion, but at least it's even and doesn't have any finger prints on it.

 I'll finish up the cap rail tonight and should be able to post photos then.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Madison, Mississippi
Posted by Donnie on Monday, June 25, 2007 7:22 PM

hardingb

please get some photos up soon.

Donnie 

In Progress: OcCre's Santisima Trindad Finished Builds: Linbergs "Jolly Roger" aka La Flore Mantua's Cannone Da Costa Americano linberg's "Cptn Kidd" aka Wappen Von Hamburg Model Shipways 1767 Sultana Midwest Boothbay Lobsterboat (R/C)

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 25, 2007 11:16 PM

handingb,

Could you elaborate on the decals, please?  Maybe post a pic or two... I painted the name of my Phantom by hand and it turned out really nice but I was a nervous wreck.  I would appreciate some info for my future builds.  Thanks. 

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Aurora, IL
Posted by hardingb on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 7:32 AM

Donnie, previous pics are posted above.

No new pics today. Home computer is on the fritz, crashed last night, and now doesn't run for more than a minute before crashing.

mhxistenz,

Decals used are Microscale decals. They're most often used for model railroads. I purchased a sheet of gold HO scale numbers and letters. The sheet has multiple sizes, and for this model, I used the smallest size. All you do is cut the letter out, soak it in water for about 30 seconds and then transfer it to the model with a wet paintbrush. As long as it is wet, you can move it around until you have it in the right place. Place all the letters and then apply a specific solvent that dissolves the plastic decal base and sets the paint down onto the surface. Then paint over with clearcoat for protection. Very simple. I tried to hand paint onto my previous build, and it was a disaster. I also tried making a masking tape stencil, and that didn't work either. Left the transom bare on that model. Decided on decals with the Phantom, especially with how small it needed to be. Will post pics as soon as the computer is up and running.

 Another issue:

I've run into a bit of a problem with the cleats attached to the bulwark stanchions. The kit supplied cleats are way oversized...about double the size they should be. I've sanded one of them down to a more reasonable size, and I think it looks ok. The cleats have a small pin at the base for fitting into a drilled hole in the bulwark stanchion to provide a firmer support. I had to file that pin down as well, since it was originally about the same width as the stanchion. But when I drilled the hole in the stanchion to accept the pin, the stanchion split. I can glue it back together, but there's no way it's going to hold the cleat firmly enough to support the stress when I do the rigging. I'm afraid I'm going to have the same problem with the other five cleats, and likely the eyebolts too.

Tonight, I'm going to try cutting out that stanchion from underneath the cap rail and replacing it with a slightly wider piece. I think when it's hidden behind the cleat, it won't be noticable.

Any other ideas?

I'm also concerned about the amount of caprail that hangs over outboard. After installing the caprail, I sanded it down to the correct 1/8" width per Chuck's instructions. The amount that hangs over on the outboard side of the rail is quite small, per the plans, about 1/32". But now looking ahead, I'm concerned about being able to install the chainplates through that small width.

Current build: Model Shipways' Phantom Previous build: Midwest's Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
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