Model Shipways "Phantom" Pilot Boat Group Build 2007

hardingb,

I like the decal idea.  Hope I can remember it when/if I get that far.

I learned a valuable lesson over the past few days.  Wood putty never hardens.  At least not in 72 hours.  My next lesson will be discovering 'What removes wood putty'.

Nope, wood putty never hardens. What you need is wood FILLER. I use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood filler. It dries hard and is sand-able. It comes in a variety of colors, and since so far I've been working with light colored wood (bass, balsa, etc), I use the Natural color.

As far a cleaning up the wood putty, I'd say remove as much of it as you can with a putty knife or hobby knife and then try a wet rag. Make sure you let the wood dry completely before applying wood filler.

 Also, if you have a large spot to fix with wood filler, it dries faster if you apply it in layers. So if you have a deep cut to fill, apply a bit, let it harden, sand slightly, apply more, etc...if you try to get it all at once, it can take a long time to dry completely. Wood filler drys HARD. If you're working with soft wood, you'll want to be careful when sanding the wood filler that you don't sand off the surrounding wood faster than the filler.

Don't get down about newby mistakes, all of the above advice comes from mistakes I've made. One of the nice things about working with wood is that just about any mistake can be fixed. If you break something or mess something up, even if you can't repair it, all you need to do is get another piece of wood and start over.

Hey all, a quick update.  After a shaky start and some flubbering I'm back on the right side of things.  I chucked the hull full of putty into the practice corner last week when I got my replacement from model-expo.  Since then there's been no need for any putty or filler (he says jinxing himself).

I've made some excellent progress the past few days.  The hull is all carved out to ‘spec' and the bulwarks trimmed down (the easiest thing I've done on it thus far) and the decking installed.  The rudder is painted and awaiting the coppering, resting comfortably in the grips of a clothes pin to make it big so I don't lose it.

For the kick board at the deck step, I varied from both the stock instructions and the practicum.  I used one of the 1/8 x 1/8 inch timbers and cut it out as a sort of ‘L' channel so I have both the top and the front of the step covered all in one fell swoop.  From looking ahead in the instructions, its bulk shouldn't cause me any grief later on.

I painted the hull flat black with a spray before I started coppering the hull; which began this morning.  I've currently completed about ¾ of the starboard side.

If I can remember where I saw the instructions of how to post pictures I'll pot up a couple if anyone's curious.  It won't win any prizes but it is good clean fun!!

Most people set up a free account and use photobucket to host their pics. www.photobucket.com. I personally have a pro account - as it just allows for more versatility and larger image uploads.

once you upload your photos to photobucket, you will then have a link or an "image link". You will need to paste that image link within your postings. Then magically, your image will appear. 

If you do choose photobucket, create a folder maybe like "Phantom" then upload all your phantom images to that folder so that you can keep track of your build. 

Let me know what you think. 

Donnie 

Hooray! I'm glad to see you're having a better time of it this time. Did Model Expo replace the hull for free, or did you purchase a new one...A couple days ago I just happened across a price for the hull alone...think it was 4 or 5 bucks.

For posting pics, I use Imageshack, which is similar to photobucket, I think. I only use it because I use it for another modeling forum as well...

Finally got my home PC fixed, so I'll probably post new pics myself soon. I've got one more chainplate to fit...I was able to get them in without ruining the caprail, so I'm happy about that. Working now on making some eyebolts. I'm not satisfied with the kit supplied eyebolts, so I'm attempting to make my own with 28 gauge steel wire. I'm not having an easy time of it so far. It's hard to make them small enough. Darned 1/96th scale.

Model Expo sent me a free-be.  It's a great practice they have; I'm sold on 'em so far.  I patched up the buggared one and am keeping it as a practice hull.

Okay, gonna try a pic ot two.  I shrunk 'em down but perhaps they're still too big?

First my deck:

The deck step:

And the coppered hull.  I may be crosseyed for life now, but here it is:

So there ya have it.  Each step in the instructions scare me a little bit more :-)

BTW, you think the steps scare you NOW? Wait 'til you get to drilling the mast holes. Nothing scarier than taking a full sized power drill to your model. I was so relieved to get past that part without problems.

Crap.  I just sat here typing for the past 20 minutes, clicked a wrong icon and lost it all.  I'm not about to re-type it all.

Congrats on getting the mast holes in, the way my luck is running there won't be any mast timber in the kit when I need it - I had to cannibalize my launchway to get a piece to test fit for a bowsprit.  Am I the only one with these problems?

My frustration meter is pegged again!

WOW ! Keel up that looks great. Everybody try using one of the foresnter bits to get those mast holes done. It will not GRAB like a regular bit. You can get one I think that goes all the way to 1/8" , 1/4", etc.

Donnie 

Keel up,

No, you're not the only one with those problems...I did the same thing...used some of the wood intended for the launching ways for the bowsprit...actually I did the same thing for the keel, stem and stern. The wood they said was intended for those parts wasn't big enough. Doesn't bother me much, since I'm not convinced that I want to display the ship on the ways anyway. I may buy or make pedestals instead.

Donnie,

I can see how they wouldn't grab for a vertical mast, but do they also not grab if you're going in at an angle for a raked mast? Also, when I drilled the mast holes on the Phantom, I used a guide cut from scrap wood at the correct angle. I cut the wood to the correct angle, and then carved a slot into it as a guide for the bit. Since the bit you show is not the same size as the shaft, I wouldn't have been able to use the guide in the same way. How do you ensure you have the correct angle with this bit?

You are very correct about the angle of drilling using the bit I described - ok - scrap that idea - no good. Sorry for that tip - throw that one away !!! Your idea better.

Donnie 

I just drilled my mast holes today.  I used hard cardboard for the angles and a #30 bit as the final size; it was the largest bit I could fit in my pin vice, and drilled all by hand.  I have to shave the masts a bit but I'm an expert whit'ler now

For the other rookies like me out there I'll pass along something I discovered quite by accident.  Dismantle your pin vice and examine the clamping portions.  If yours is like mine there are four different ranges to choose from.  As I said above, a #30 bit is as big as mine would accept and I had to talk to it for that to happen.  A #30 is between 1/8 and 9/64.

It's been a while since anyone has posted, so I thought I'd give an update. I've been moving pretty slowly lately. Just bought a new car this weekend, and was out test-driving every night last week.

 I'm just about done with all the fittings on the caprail. I've got the deadeyes, fairleads and eyebolts done, and just blackened the belaying pins last night, should be able to install them this evening. I also soaked the wood for the splashrails last night and built a bending jig with nails to form them to the correct curve. I left them to dry overnight and we'll see how they turned out this afternoon. I'll still have to paint them and use decals for the ship's name on them before installing. I have also built and installed the main sheet traveller and the blocks associated with it. I have opted not to paint the blocks, but did sand them down to a less rectangular shape.

I've been experimenting with silver brazing...originally I was creating eyebolts with superglue, but I have been able to make the last few by brazing, and am happy with the results. I attempted the main sheet traveller by brazing, but it was during my first brazing attempts, and I gave up and made one with superglue. I've gotten better at brazing since then, but haven't tried it on anything bigger than the eyebolts yet.

For tonight, I hope to be able to put a final coat on the caprail (I pencilled in some reference lines for measuring locations for the eyebolts and belaying pins, so I'll need one more coat of paint to cover over those), install the belaying pins and paint the splash rails. Then tomorrow I should be able to install the splash rails and be done with the caprails entirely, and move on to the rest of the deck fittings.

I also picked up some fittings this weekend from the (semi)local Model Shipways dealer. I got some more cleats (there are a lot more on the ship than come in the kit...check ahead in the practicum to the photos of the spars). I picked up 5mm cleats, which I think are the ones that were supposed to come in the kit originally...my kit came with the 7mm ones. The 5mm are still too large, and have the H shape that Chuck mentions in the practicum, but should require less grinding to get them to the correct size than the 7mm. I also got some more single blocks...just in case. Finally, I also got some grating material. Model Expo offers wooden grating down to 1/32" square grid, which is still pretty big at 1:96 scale. But they also offer etched brass grating at 1/64" square, which is pretty good for our scale. When I picked it up, though, I saw that the holes are actually round instead of square. I'm not sure how I feel about putting that down in the cockpit. I'll paint some up in a wood color and see how it looks before I decide what to do.

I think I've decided to toss the cockpit coaming as well. Since I've carved down the cockpit, I'm going to have to cover the inside wall of the cockpit anyway, so i think I may just go all the way up to the rail using the file folder material and then create a rail from wood. We'll see.

Congrats on th new car, hardinb!  Nothing more fun than 'playing the game' with the salesman, eh?  I worked at dealerships for many years and know all the 'tricks' but let them have their fun up to a point.

I didn't blacken my belaying pins; I liked the brass look and have a heck of a time getting paint to stick to anything metal in the kit.  I use a lot of Sharpie, though.  I am sorry that I didn't paint the caprail with the brown that came with the kit.  I left it au-natural.  Oh well, lesson learned.

I cheated when it came to extra eyebolts.  Turns out my fishing tackle box (which hadn't been opened in over a year) was full of tiny bluegil hooks; with some pretty sweet eyes at one end.  Cut them off and tossed the pointy part in my used razor blades can.  They worked sweet; and they're already black!

I think when it comes time that I run out of cleats, I'll just glue the rigging to where it should be and pretend.  I made a couple for the bowsprit and they look 'okay' but it's nothing I'm going to worry about; time is of the essence...

I tried several different things for the hoops around the masts.  The practicum calls for 15; I tried paper, brass wire and a couple other things and they all looked - funky; so I moved on without them.  Noone that sees my model will ever know they're not there anyway.

I have the masts set and the shrouds and lanyards all done up nicely though these old eyes and fingers fought me for every knot and deadeye hole.  The shroud-mounted pinrails were tricky and just plain fun.  I have one of the topmast backstays done and the other close to finished.  I tried for a couple hours to make a rope coil and have decided that they will be omitted, too.  I just couldn't make them look like anything but a wad of string encased in super glue.

 I guess that brings me up to the main boom to tackle next.

I'm looking forward to my next model; one I can take my time with a little more - not trying to capitalize on the 'free' offer Model Shipways so graciously offers.  BTW: that reminds me, after complaining about missing items in their kits I must also mention that the practicum needs updating because a couple items he says are short (belaying pins for one if I recall) are not any more.  Okay, back to my refular ramble -

I am looking to either try the Bounty Launch or the Rattlesnake.  Anyone out there have any experience with either?

Anyone know anything about building plexiglass showcases?  What glue to use, etc.? 

How are some of you others doing on your Phantoms?

Okay, I'm done babbling for this visit...

Here's the handy way I did my main boom; it kept the pieces large enough I could work with them easily.

Thanks, Keel Up. But no haggling required. I work for an oil company that has corporate discounts at each of the big three. So I got the car for a flat rate, no negotiations.

Wow, you're really flying through Phantom. You've already passed me up. I just realized that yesterday was the four month mark for me, so I'd better get a move on. Need to start spending more time on it.

Good idea on the eyebolts. It's fun hearing other modelers' creative solutions.

A tip on making rope coils. If you're making coils to go over a cleat, wrap the rope around the end of a dowel a few times. Then wet the coil slightly with white glue, and while the glue is still wet, slide the coil off the dowel and shape it to the correct, oval shape. If you're making coils to lay flat on the deck, you'll need something to sandwich the coil between. See this video http://www.shipmodeling.ca/aa000099.html. I don't use as fancy a jig as him, but it's basically the same process. I took a clear cd case, and cut/cracked/broke a round(ish) piece out, about the size of a quarter. I drilled a hole through the center of the piece, and cut out a similarly sized piece from stiff paper (manila folder or cereal box work fine). Push a needle through the holes, wrap the string around the needle, and away you go.

Check around on the forums for plexiglass cases, I know i've seen instructions somewhere. You may need to search under acrylic, as I think plexiglass is mainly a US term, and the Europeans may use a different term. I'm not sure where I've seen the instructions. Check shipmodeling.net, drydockmodels.com, modelshipworld.com. Or try a google search. As far as what glue to use, acrylic aquariums are joined with clear silicone caulk that's available at every hardware store.

 Good job on the boom, too.

Thanks hardingb I'll try the white glue method for making rope coils.

I mounted the main boom this evening.  I manufactured my parral beads from the small diameter dowel.  I simply drilled a hole up the middle and sliced it like bread.  I then held the individual slices on the tip of the drill bit and sanded them 'round'.

A word of warning.  In the practicum, he calls for a single block under the traveler during that step way back when.  Not so; it requires a double.  I drilled the hole bigger and ran through the same hole twice.  In the pages concerning the main boom he says there's a detailed drawing of the running of this (main sheet) rigging.  Not so; there is a very simple drawing of it on pg 13 of the real instructions, though.  I made it up as I went.

Are we the only ones in this group build hardingb or is everyone else just lurking?

Actually I am still lurking here.   Dont say that my practicum is wrong with such certainty.     Take a look at the rigging plan and there you will see it calls for double blocks.  However... take a look at plan sheet 1 and there is a small detailed drawing of the traveller there as well. Take a look at the upper left hand corner.  It calls for a single block.  There are many inconsistancies between the plans and instructions and I based my practicum on my knowledge of such vessels of that time period.  The illustration on page 13 is wrong and the plans are correct.  Model Shipways has upgraded and changed their kit since I initially wrote it.  In fact it was do in fact to my writing of the guide.  I may actually go back and update it soon to include info about the changes but I will not change the information about the traveller.  It is correct.  I hope my guide has helped you "a little" .  Dont take it personally and I dont mean to sound harsh, really. But when you post with such athority and certainty it is misleading to some folks who might think you actually correct without adding your sources and background before posting them.

Chuck Passaro

I stand corrected.

And while I'm standing I shall bow out as gracefully as I possibly can.

Going, going, gone...

Keel Up,

 You dont have to leave or stop posting.  Just dont be so critical of the practicum.  I would love to see you continue the project and am enjoing watching your progress.  You are doing some fine work on the model. If you see something written in the guide or instructions that you have a question about I will certainly do my best to answer any questions.  Please continue and feel free to send me a private message when you have a question.

 Chuck

Thanks for clarifying, Chuck. If/when you get around to updating the practicum, one small detail you might want to change is the size of the solid-hull block. One of those changes you mentioned that MS has made since you wrote the practicum appears to be increasing the size of the rough hull in the kit. Your practicum mentions that it is oversized by about 1/8"...now it's closer to 1/2". Not a big deal, but when a first time builder opens the kit, and their first task doesn't exactly match up with the instructions, it's a bit disconcerting. I know it was for me, and since I started a few months ago, I've seen postings from a few others with the same comment.

 Keel Up...hope you're still here... you're right, you and I are the only two currently building. As planned, I made some headway this weekend and am almost finished with the deck furniture. Almost ready to move on to rigging.

 Spent a bit of time yesterday working on the pumps. The kit supplied pumps don't include the pump handle/lever. Simply too small and fragile, I assume. The practicum calls for the supplied pieces to be painted and glued in, but I wanted to add pump handles. So I took a piece of the black wire from the kit and formed a small loop, just big enough for the pin in the top of the pump to fit in, brazed it closed and formed a handle. Pretty happy with how they turned out. I'll have to take some pics this afternoon to show off.

No problem

Yes In fact I believe MS has bought a new 12 position lathe that is a nice piece of equipment.  They are using it to produce the hull blanks.  This is something they have just started doing.  Even if I update the guide there is no telling where copies of it are hosted.  It would be hard to replace all of them. 

 The pump handles is a nice touch.  They were portable and anly present when the pumps were being used.  Good luck with themodel its coming out great. 

I do wish Keel up would return but we shall see.  he has made a great start to his model as well.

chuck

ChuckP wrote:

They were portable and anly present when the pumps were being used.

That's what I assumed based on the info in the kit. The plans show handles, but the close-up view of the pumps doesn't show handles. So I assumed they must be removable. (Winch handles are also removable?)

With as small a scale as this kit is, the pumps basically just look like indistinct lumps of metal, unless you look very closely...especially when they're painted all one color...black. I thought the handles would help show what they are. The other option would be to try to weather the pumps a bit so the detail comes out...but I thought it would look odd to have the pumps weathered when nothing else on the ship is.

As promised, I'm showing off some of the feature's I'm particularly proud of.

First is the lettering on the transom...I used Microscale decals...the smallest I could find, and I think they turned out well. The same decals display the ship's name on the splashrails as well.

Shot with DSC-P73

I spent a lot of time on the cockpit. The plans don't show it, but the cockpit would have been lower than the deck by about a foot. Chuck's practicum mentions this feature, but doesn't go into detail on how to do it. I used a dremel to carve out the cockpit, laid the deck, and built the coaming with folder material rather than using the kit supplied metal coaming parts. I also had to change the companionway slightly to achieve the proper look, and I'm quite proud of the result.




I'm having a blast, and owe a lot of thanks to Chuck for his practicum, as it's a lot more detailed than the kit instructions. But I've found that the most rewarding parts are figuring things out that are not mentioned in the practicum or instructions. I'm going to do a few more kits to learn the basic skills, and then I look forward to jumping into scratch building.

It looks great.  The cockpit especially.  I wish I had the opportunity to do so.  When I was teaching that class the folks taking part wanted no part of anything too advanced.  Maybe someday I will build her again.  It looks so much better than my model because of the details you are adding.  Keep it up. I am enjoying your progress.

chuck

Keel Up,

I'm not going to post updates on this thread anymore. Since it appears to be only the two of us, and this is the only thread I follow on Finescale (I mainly post on the forums that are dedicated to ship modeling), there's not much point in continuing here. Please feel free to join us over at shipmodeling.net. It's a forum that is dedicated to ship models and is mostly wood models. Here's a link to to the most recent Phantom thread. Hope things are going well.

 http://shipmodeling.net/vb_forum/thread3746-Phantom-1868--2007-.html.

hardingb wrote:

Thanks for clarifying, Chuck. If/when you get around to updating the practicum, one small detail you might want to change is the size of the solid-hull block. One of those changes you mentioned that MS has made since you wrote the practicum appears to be increasing the size of the rough hull in the kit. Your practicum mentions that it is oversized by about 1/8"...now it's closer to 1/2". Not a big deal, but when a first time builder opens the kit, and their first task doesn't exactly match up with the instructions, it's a bit disconcerting. I know it was for me, and since I started a few months ago, I've seen postings from a few others with the same comment.  Keel Up...hope you're still here... you're right, you and I are the only two currently building. As planned, I made some headway this weekend and am almost finished with the deck furniture. Almost ready to move on to rigging.  Spent a bit of time yesterday working on the pumps. The kit supplied pumps don't include the pump handle/lever. Simply too small and fragile, I assume. The practicum calls for the supplied pieces to be painted and glued in, but I wanted to add pump handles. So I took a piece of the black wire from the kit and formed a small loop, just big enough for the pin in the top of the pump to fit in, brazed it closed and formed a handle. Pretty happy with how they turned out. I'll have to take some pics this afternoon to show off.

You two are no longer the only ones.  At the begining of this build I was offered a teaching position in Florida.  I'm here but am not in a position to build yet.  What I have seen of the work sofar is nothing short of fantastic.  I hope that when I do get to restart my boat you guys will still be around to help.

Roy,

Glad to hear you're getting settled. You'll have to change your member name to flaroy! Once you're ready to continue building, you should join us over at shipmodeling.net. I may stop by here every once in a while to see if anyone has made any posts (like I happened to do today) but I'll do most of my Phantom posting over there.

Hope your new-house duties allow you to get back to your hobby soon.

Ben