SPITFIRE GROUP BUILD 2007-2008

razordws wrote:

The number one issue with just about everyone using acrylics is tip dry.  Acrylics dry really fast  and they can sometimes dry right on the tip of your airbrush and cause it to clog.  The best thing that I have found is to add a drop or two of acrylic thinner to the paint each time you use it.  Generally acrylics don't need to be thinned but I find the thinner which has a chemical retarder to keep the paint from drying out really helps.  What brand of paints are you using?

I picked up a Testors armor acrylic kit some time ago. I've also just bought a few Model Masters colors I'm gonna need for my Spitfire.

Rich, I use acrylics and the Paasche H brush so if you have any specific questions just let me know.  I can't think of any articles or links right off hand but if you go to the Tools and techniques sections of the forums and read through past threads you'll learn a lot. 

The number one issue with just about everyone using acrylics is tip dry.  Acrylics dry really fast  and they can sometimes dry right on the tip of your airbrush and cause it to clog.  The best thing that I have found is to add a drop or two of acrylic thinner to the paint each time you use it.  Generally acrylics don't need to be thinned but I find the thinner which has a chemical retarder to keep the paint from drying out really helps.  What brand of paints are you using?

Thanks Frank,

I still use the squadron White Putty - and now I know it is not very good product for this application - struggling with both my kits now

Greg-

I looked at two of my LHS's that usually stock the Mr. Surfacer today, but neither had any in stock and din't think they could get any.  Sorry buddy.

gzt wrote:

Mr Surfacer 500 is another one - I heard - but I can not get it anywhere. Swanny shows it in his DVD - and it seams to be great, the only problem - who knows where to get it in the US ???

Greg, you can usually find it here, thought they appear to be out of it right now. 

Rich- the our GB!  As Ruddratt stated, it's a great place to learn and have fun.  A great bunch of guys always willing to help.

Thanks folks. I'm pretty psyched about getting started. I dug out my airbrush kit (Paasche single-action H-set) and the few paints I had purchased at the same time. They're all acrylics, which actually works pretty well for me right now, as I don't have a proper filtration system for exhausting the fumes of enamels. I'll go searching for info on the subject, but if anyone has any links to particularly helpful threads containing tips for working with acrylics and also the topic of acrylics vs. enamels, I'd appreciate it if you could point me in the right direction.

Rich.Carpenter wrote:

Is it too late to get in on this GB? I thought this sounded like a fun way to get into the hobby - haven't built any models in almost 30 years, and back then I was more interested in slapping them together quickly and packing them with firecrackers. (Hey, I was only 12 or so. :P) Anyway, I picked up a Hasegawa 1/48 Mk.Vb today at my LHS. This is really gonna be a learning experience for me. First time working with anything more than modeling glue. First time using an airbrush (I picked up a Paasche kit a couple of years ago, hoping to take up the hobby at the time). First time applying any sort of detail/weathering/effects that don't come directly from the nozzle of a spray can. Wish me all kinds of luck. :) By the way, will this thread be an acceptable place for general questions I might have while working on this kit?

Welcome Rich !

I got back to the hobby few months ago. I started with level "0" or lower. Thanks to these Guys, I was able to get up to speed. Not expert yet but hopefuly soon

It was a very painful process, but again: right place and right aircraft to start (I mean SPITFIRE !!!!!!! )

Welcome and ask all the questions you wish (I think I speak for all of us here) but you have to build a Spit !  

Waste Land wrote:

No, i understood the process. I just wanted to try it on something that I couldnt mess up instead of messing up the paint in a trial and error deal. but are you saying you guys clear coat cars with future? spray it on paint on?

After the kit is painted, the whole story with camo, shading etc, than put a clear coat (Future - most fellows will , or any other clear coat - I use MM in a can) and cure it for some time (day or two. Than use decals and coat again (gloss) wait two days and apply wash (water based black (usually) and a bit of soap !!!. You leave those in panel lines and get some "dist" effect.

Clean with wet paper towel until desired effect achieved. You can wash it out and start again with a claen gloss surface - this is a purpose of a gloss - smooth surface , easy to remove from what is not needed.

I hope I put it right

I just put preshade on my Vb and apply SKY band and Yellow  Leading edges. It looks GOOD so far. Hopefully next Week I will have the whole bottom done and start camo on top. Can not wait !

Greg 

Rich, we haven't turned anyone away yet.

Seriously, this is a great bunch of guys here with a lot of talent, and if you're building a Spit, then you're in the right place. Feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Is it too late to get in on this GB? I thought this sounded like a fun way to get into the hobby - haven't built any models in almost 30 years, and back then I was more interested in slapping them together quickly and packing them with firecrackers. (Hey, I was only 12 or so. :P)

Anyway, I picked up a Hasegawa 1/48 Mk.Vb today at my LHS. This is really gonna be a learning experience for me. First time working with anything more than modeling glue. First time using an airbrush (I picked up a Paasche kit a couple of years ago, hoping to take up the hobby at the time). First time applying any sort of detail/weathering/effects that don't come directly from the nozzle of a spray can. Wish me all kinds of luck. :)

By the way, will this thread be an acceptable place for general questions I might have while working on this kit?

NOOOO

You put the wash AFTER you paint the model with glossy coat. FUTURE is a perfect for this task.

Also the wash should be with a bit of dish soap, otherwise it will stick a bit diferent. This method is pretty simple if you follow the instruction EXACTLY.  Than it is reversable otherwise ... preppare to repaint your model again. Not a pretty picture.

Also just dried doing a tempera wash on a bare plastic body of my skyline......I am very displeased with this. Even if it is water based. when removing it seems to really break loose and not pickup instead smear everythign with black casuign some parts of the car to become "unclean" evenw ith some scrubbing.

It seems the stupid proof way may be even harder then i thought 

I was just looking for a good putty. The squadron White Piutty is not too good (I used it and it is a real pain) Now I am looking for Hunze "Mr White Outty" - it supposed to be a good stuff - not available at by LHS - so I will get it online - another few days delay.

Mr Surfacer 500 is another one - I heard - but I can not get it anywhere. Swanny shows it in his DVD - and it seams to be great, the only problem - who knows where to get it in the US ???

Ready to be puttied up. Nose cone is not glued on, just had to be trimmed and cut to fit.

 Again this is my first airplane, airbrush, putty, sanding, ....basically first time putting real effort into the model. So please be gentle with comments, however please give me any helping tips for construction you have.

 Would the testors conture putty bewhat I need for filling the bond lines and joints? Or is there something else more desireable?

PS...that is NOT my work table. It's my dad's but he has the best light for pics 

This is "the best" method !  Highly controllable process - perfect for newbies like me

BTW - the Mk IIa I showed, was painted twice - first time with a can , than stripped to the plastic and repainted with preshading and all this "stuff" 

Earlier in this GB there is a post with camo schema for 1/48 - may be handy (pg 13 I think) 

keep the pictures coming 

Hmmm

Sounds like testing ground , nothing wrong with that, but ... With this kit you will not be able to do the whole process - simply because the panel lines are raised . Painting alone - sure but the whole finish may not be a typical for most of the planes.

The other siginificant diference between Mk I and Mk II was a prop and spinner. Mk II has a more rounded nose than "pointy" Mk I. For my first kit I use Tamiya MkI converted to Mk II

and welcome to the Airplane World

Hmmm...

 The major change from the Mark I to the Mark II was the use of the 1050 HP Merlin XII with higher supercharger gearing and a Coffman cartridge starter. So its nothing really cosmetic(other then paint) so I should still be able to pull it off.

 This build is going to be done as scaled, however this build being my first plane, airbrush attempt, and putty attempt. I'm  more concerned with the finish then the specifics. Once my skills im approve so will my accuracy

Waste Land wrote:

I'm going with DarkGreen and DarkEarth for camo with SkyBlue(IF I can ever find one) for the underside.   Here is a pic I'm going after on my MKII

HMMMM...

this craft looks to me as it is Mk Ia

The paint scheme depends mostly on the time. Some Mk II were painted the same way as shown on the pict (except spinner was Sky) but in second half of 1941 they switched to RAF Ocean Grey (~F36152),  RAF Medium Sea Grey instead of Dark Earth and Sky

RAF Sky Type S is available from Model Master (enamel)  

The "switch" of colors was done on August 15, 1941 (info from Edgar - Thanks!)  

I'm going with DarkGreen and DarkEarth for camo with SkyBlue(IF I can ever find one) for the underside.

Here is a pic I'm going after on my MKII

sure.

It is a real pain in a rear to mask near the horizontal stabilizer. It is much easier to paint it "wide" and mask only what has to be visible later. If you plan to paint it later than you have to mask a significant portion of the rear fuselage - not an easy job - I am just lazy and after going through it once - I said - never again - make a correct paint plan prior to start - it saves a lot of time and hassle - I learned it pretty quickly

Same thing with invasion stripes - it is easy to paint them prior to the camo - it just simplifies masking.

Make sure you get your preshade done right. 

if you dont mind me asking why the band first

thank you much man, so it looks as tho the spinner and the band on the tail are sky tho right.

A : RAF Ocean Grey (~F36152)

B : RAF Dark Green (~FS34079)

C : RAF Medium Sea Grey (~FS36270)

G: RAF SKY - (~FS34504) 

Note: the RAF SKY band is all around the fuselage ; covers bottom Medium Sea Grey. I painted the SKY band first, than mask it and paint the bottom side with Medium Sea Grey - you have to give at least 24 hrs to cure the band before applying the mask tape

oh dude you rock, I really wanted to get started on the camo this weekend so I think I am gonna have to run home and airbrush the bottom again tonight. I should be able to paint right over, the sky type s is light enough

Tamiya ... sucks with colors references

A : RAF Ocean Grey (~F36152)

B : RAF Dark Green (~FS34079)

C : RAF Medium Sea Grey (~FS36270)

I am going to scan the infor for you, give me a moment 

gzt wrote:

The European and N.Africa theatre colors might be: RAF Azure Blue (~FS35231) North Africa or RAF Medium Sea Grey (~FS36270) - England The FS colors are just similar to RAF. Get exact MM colors for RAF (I use enamels MM RAF paint) Do you need other colors and camo schemes ?  Greg

ok so the undersides are RAF Medium Sea Grey what about the topsides? looks like im repainting. my computer is not working at home and the tamiya kits dont give the best instruction on color so I was doing my best looking at my MM RAF set and the box trying to match up colors